"Calif Bill" wrote in message
link.net...

".JIMinMA." wrote in message
...

wrote in message
m...
".JIMinMA." wrote in message
...
Use two 5 watt solar panels and a continuous duty isolator relay. It
can't
get any simpler than that.
Jim

Okay sounds good. The isolator would connect to what other than the
two batteries? And it's purpose would be to keep anything on the boat
from pulling from the aux right? Also, would 5watts overcharge the
batteries and require a controller?

Yes, the batteries would have no load while sitting, but I'm recalling
those two week trips and my car not starting when I got back.

Thanks!
The relay would be turned on by the ignition switch. You could add an
isolator relay delay and make the installation a little more
sophisticated.
Don't worry about overcharging. Look at the Intellitec web site for
details
on the products I mentioned, and others.
Jim



What you want is a battery combiner not an isolator. $80 at West Marine.
When one battery goes above 13.4V (charging) the relay combines the 2
batteries. Less voltage drop than an isolator.
Bill


They are kind of similar devices, Bill. Relay isolators do not have the .7V
voltage drop that the diode isolators do. Also the isolator relay delay has
a nice delay feature that the West unit doesn't have, which allows the
engine to start on the starting battery before the auxiliary battery is
combined with it.
Jim

If starting, the voltage will be below 13.4V and the batteries will not be
combined. I installed one on my boat as the electronics power cycled when
starting the motor (351W inboard). They happily stay on now. The only
isolators I have seen have been the diode units. The combiner is a relay.
Bill

".JIMinMA." wrote in message
...

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
link.net...

".JIMinMA." wrote in message
...

wrote in message
m...
".JIMinMA." wrote in message
...
Use two 5 watt solar panels and a continuous duty isolator relay.
It
can't
get any simpler than that.
Jim

Okay sounds good. The isolator would connect to what other than the
two batteries? And it's purpose would be to keep anything on the
boat
from pulling from the aux right? Also, would 5watts overcharge the
batteries and require a controller?

Yes, the batteries would have no load while sitting, but I'm
recalling
those two week trips and my car not starting when I got back.

Thanks!
The relay would be turned on by the ignition switch. You could add an
isolator relay delay and make the installation a little more
sophisticated.
Don't worry about overcharging. Look at the Intellitec web site for
details
on the products I mentioned, and others.
Jim



What you want is a battery combiner not an isolator. $80 at West
Marine.
When one battery goes above 13.4V (charging) the relay combines the 2
batteries. Less voltage drop than an isolator.
Bill


They are kind of similar devices, Bill. Relay isolators do not have the
..7V
voltage drop that the diode isolators do. Also the isolator relay delay
has
a nice delay feature that the West unit doesn't have, which allows the
engine to start on the starting battery before the auxiliary battery is
combined with it.
Jim

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
link.net...
If starting, the voltage will be below 13.4V and the batteries will not be
combined. I installed one on my boat as the electronics power cycled when
starting the motor (351W inboard). They happily stay on now. The only
isolators I have seen have been the diode units. The combiner is a relay.
Bill
Your right. I didn't think of that. Battery voltage typically goes to about
10 V when the engine is cranking so the West Combiner/Isolator would be in
Isolation mode. How do you handle an emergency start situation when the
starting battery is dead?
Jim

".JIMinMA." wrote in message
...

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
link.net...
If starting, the voltage will be below 13.4V and the batteries will not
be
combined. I installed one on my boat as the electronics power cycled
when
starting the motor (351W inboard). They happily stay on now. The only
isolators I have seen have been the diode units. The combiner is a
relay.
Bill
Your right. I didn't think of that. Battery voltage typically goes to
about
10 V when the engine is cranking so the West Combiner/Isolator would be in
Isolation mode. How do you handle an emergency start situation when the
starting battery is dead?
Jim



I have a Guest dual battery switch. The combiner is hooked up to the 1 and
2 battery connections and then off the #2 connection is a wire to a single
battery switch. The electronics runs off the single switch. So to run the
boat I have to turn the dual switch to #1 and also turn on the single
switch. If #1 is dead, just turn the dual switch to #2. I lost a Pinpoint
sonar unit when starting one time. The EMF kickback from the starter /
solenoid blew a cap and the power supply in the unit.
Bill

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
ink.net...

".JIMinMA." wrote in message
...

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
link.net...
If starting, the voltage will be below 13.4V and the batteries will
not
be
combined. I installed one on my boat as the electronics power cycled
when
starting the motor (351W inboard). They happily stay on now. The
only
isolators I have seen have been the diode units. The combiner is a
relay.
Bill
Your right. I didn't think of that. Battery voltage typically goes to
about
10 V when the engine is cranking so the West Combiner/Isolator would be
in
Isolation mode. How do you handle an emergency start situation when the
starting battery is dead?
Jim



I have a Guest dual battery switch. The combiner is hooked up to the 1
and
2 battery connections and then off the #2 connection is a wire to a single
battery switch. The electronics runs off the single switch. So to run
the
boat I have to turn the dual switch to #1 and also turn on the single
switch. If #1 is dead, just turn the dual switch to #2. I lost a
Pinpoint
sonar unit when starting one time. The EMF kickback from the starter /
solenoid blew a cap and the power supply in the unit.
Bill


Where does the combiner read the control voltage from?
Jim

".JIMinMA." wrote in message
...

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
ink.net...

".JIMinMA." wrote in message
...

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
link.net...
If starting, the voltage will be below 13.4V and the batteries will
not
be
combined. I installed one on my boat as the electronics power
cycled
when
starting the motor (351W inboard). They happily stay on now. The
only
isolators I have seen have been the diode units. The combiner is a
relay.
Bill
Your right. I didn't think of that. Battery voltage typically goes to
about
10 V when the engine is cranking so the West Combiner/Isolator would
be
in
Isolation mode. How do you handle an emergency start situation when
the
starting battery is dead?
Jim



I have a Guest dual battery switch. The combiner is hooked up to the 1
and
2 battery connections and then off the #2 connection is a wire to a
single
battery switch. The electronics runs off the single switch. So to run
the
boat I have to turn the dual switch to #1 and also turn on the single
switch. If #1 is dead, just turn the dual switch to #2. I lost a
Pinpoint
sonar unit when starting one time. The EMF kickback from the starter /
solenoid blew a cap and the power supply in the unit.
Bill


Where does the combiner read the control voltage from?
Jim




It reads the voltage from either battery. IF one gets above 13.4V then the
relay engages and combines the 2 batts.
Bill

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
hlink.net...

".JIMinMA." wrote in message
...

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
ink.net...

".JIMinMA." wrote in message
...

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
link.net...
If starting, the voltage will be below 13.4V and the batteries
will
not
be
combined. I installed one on my boat as the electronics power
cycled
when
starting the motor (351W inboard). They happily stay on now. The
only
isolators I have seen have been the diode units. The combiner is
a
relay.
Bill
Your right. I didn't think of that. Battery voltage typically goes
to
about
10 V when the engine is cranking so the West Combiner/Isolator would
be
in
Isolation mode. How do you handle an emergency start situation when
the
starting battery is dead?
Jim



I have a Guest dual battery switch. The combiner is hooked up to the
1
and
2 battery connections and then off the #2 connection is a wire to a
single
battery switch. The electronics runs off the single switch. So to
run
the
boat I have to turn the dual switch to #1 and also turn on the single
switch. If #1 is dead, just turn the dual switch to #2. I lost a
Pinpoint
sonar unit when starting one time. The EMF kickback from the starter
/
solenoid blew a cap and the power supply in the unit.
Bill


Where does the combiner read the control voltage from?
Jim




It reads the voltage from either battery. IF one gets above 13.4V then
the
relay engages and combines the 2 batts.
Bill


That's what I wasn't sure of. It had to look at both batteries or another
source like the ignition switch or alternator output. One minor nit to pick.
The on/off/both switch you are using doesn't seem to enable you to pull
battery 2 out of the circuit and operate the electronics on battery 1 only.
Of course you could disconnect a battery cable if you had to. You have a
pretty good setup there. Take a look at the intellitec web site if you get a
chance. They have some pretty interesting battery control devices.

Gobble gobble,
Jim

EMF kickback? I guess you mean the voltage drop. Never heard of EMF
kickback. And, yes, a voltage drop to sensitive equipment can damage it.
That's why using an accessory/house battery for the equipment is the best
route to go.


"Calif Bill" wrote in message
ink.net...

...The EMF kickback from the starter /
solenoid blew a cap and the power supply in the unit.
Bill

"Mole" wrote in message
t...
EMF kickback? I guess you mean the voltage drop. Never heard of EMF
kickback. And, yes, a voltage drop to sensitive equipment can damage it.
That's why using an accessory/house battery for the equipment is the best
route to go.


"Calif Bill" wrote in message
ink.net...

...The EMF kickback from the starter /
solenoid blew a cap and the power supply in the unit.
Bill




EMF is very much seen in starter circuits. The starter soenoid coil
discharging induces a big voltage. The starter may also. Put an O'scope on
the voltage line and you will see lots of scary spikes.
Bill

On Thu, 27 Nov 2003 00:52:08 GMT, Mole wrote:

EMF kickback? I guess you mean the voltage drop. Never heard of EMF
kickback. And, yes, a voltage drop to sensitive equipment can damage it.
That's why using an accessory/house battery for the equipment is the best
route to go.

Bill's right, it's a spike produced by the collapsing magnetic field of the
solenoid. It can do some damage. As he says, put an oscilloscope across
the line and you'll see it.
--

Larry
email is rapp at lmr dot com