On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 10:11:04 -0400, "Gary Warner"
wrote:


A few questions/topics from our weekend
boating. (See my other post for a narrative of that.)


HEAT ALARM:
We've got a temp gauge but I'm thinking I might want an
alarm too. Do these typically work with the existing
sensor & gauge? Any recommendations on good ones?

No reason to really - just something else to break or go wrong.

STOWING ANCHOR ROPE:
A few experiments showed me that trying to tie the anchor
rope into some bundle makes it hard to undo without a mess.
I'm thinking to just use a mesh bag, feed the rope into it, and
leave and end hanging out so it can't work it's way into a
knot. Does that work or no?

I have an anchor locker on the Contender, but on my Ranger, I just
loosely pile the rope into the storage locker and lay the anchor ontop
of it. The bag thing is almost as good. Trying to neatly coil the
anchor rode is not a good thing.

ANCHORING:
I've got a 18 lb Danforth for our 22' and 4000# boat.
We've got about 120' of rope (rode?) with some
heavy chain. Mostly we'll be in lakes, Hudson River,
and Boston Harbor. Probably not anchor much.
I'm thinking that in 30' water we'd still have 4:1
scope and that might be ok for us. I guess more rope really
can't hurt except for $$$ and stowage space.

The average is 6:1 FYI, but at 30 feet, 4:1 is good enough if you are
also using chain.

Oh, and I have another 13 lb here. If I was planning
on an overnight maybe I could get more rope and
use the two in conjunction?

You mean as a stern anchor or something similar?

You really don't need to do that - a single anchor off the bow is
sufficient. Setting a second anchor is pointless on a boat like that.

BILGE SIPHON:
Our boat has (original) a siphon system to remove bilge water. It's a
thru-hull in the aft with an opening that points aft. Attached to that
is a hose and then a brass tube with a bend in it. This makes an arc
that gets to about 14: above the bottom of the boat. As the boat
moves forward it's supposed to create a suction that pulls water
from the bilge.

A trickle of water enters our bilge between the bottom-most plank
and the keel. I'm not planning on tackling this fix until the winter
so for now there is always some water in the bilge.

We also have two 1100 GPH pumps mounted forward that
work - but only when stopped and the water has run forward.

Q: By look or feel I couldn't tell if the siphon is working. And
ideas on how to tell?

Nope.

Q: Would I be better off mounting an electrical pump aft?

Yep.

Q: Could I safely use the existing thru-hull for an electrical
pump as long as I had a length of hose looping above the
waterline...and maybe a check-valve??

I'm having a problem visualizing the fitting - do you mean it's
underwater? And where do the front pumps empty - I'd hook up a T
fitting and use that exit fitting.

Q: Or better to just not worry about it, let the front pumps
do their job, and fix the leak over the winter?

Or you could just not worry about it, let the front pumps do their
thing and fix the leak over the winter.

Aren't you glad you asked? :)

Later,

Tom

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...

Oh, and I have another 13 lb here. If I was planning
on an overnight maybe I could get more rope and
use the two in conjunction?

You mean as a stern anchor or something similar?

Could come in handy if he ever wants to beach the boat and use that 2nd
anchor in the water to keep the stern from swinging toward the beach.

On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 16:23:52 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
wrote:

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
.. .

Oh, and I have another 13 lb here. If I was planning
on an overnight maybe I could get more rope and
use the two in conjunction?

You mean as a stern anchor or something similar?

Could come in handy if he ever wants to beach the boat and use that 2nd
anchor in the water to keep the stern from swinging toward the beach.

Well, see - that's the voice of experience.

I've never done something like that although I certainly can see the
value of it.

Learn something new every day.

Later,

Tom

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 16:23:52 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
wrote:

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in
message
.. .

Oh, and I have another 13 lb here. If I was planning
on an overnight maybe I could get more rope and
use the two in conjunction?

You mean as a stern anchor or something similar?

Could come in handy if he ever wants to beach the boat and use that 2nd
anchor in the water to keep the stern from swinging toward the beach.

Well, see - that's the voice of experience.

I've never done something like that although I certainly can see the
value of it.

Learn something new every day.

Later,

Tom


It's the voice of experience, but also fear.

Experience: Sometimes anchoring the boat straight out from the beach keeps
it over deeper water, for better fishing.

Fear: My dad once thought the wind was produced by a precision machine and
would not change directions during an 8 hour day. He didn't anchor the stern
of his 32' Luhrs while beached. Wind changed, tide went out, boat buried
enough of its prop & rudder in the sand to keep us there all night. We kids
didn't mind, but my mother wasn't much of a camper.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message


I'm having a problem visualizing the fitting - do you mean it's
underwater?

Yes.

And where do the front pumps empty

There is an above the water line thru-hull on each side
of the bow. Each pump emptys through it's own
fitting.


I'd hook up a T fitting and use that exit fitting.

It would be about 18 feet from the back of the boat
to the front thru-hull. Plus it would be through
a "T" and up a bit to the hole. And I suppose a
check-valve would be needed to keep the water
from pumping back out the other (wrong/pump)
side of the "T". ~ But maybe.

Q: Or better to just not worry about it, let the front pumps
do their job, and fix the leak over the winter?

Or you could just not worry about it, let the front pumps do their
thing and fix the leak over the winter.

Aren't you glad you asked? :)


Funny guy. But yes, I'm glad. Thanks.

Gary

On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 13:18:55 -0400, "Gary Warner"
wrote:


"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message


I'm having a problem visualizing the fitting - do you mean it's
underwater?

Yes.

Why would they have an exit point underwater? That makes no sense.

Now that you said that, I'd secure/cap that fitting off and put a new
one higher than the water line.

And where do the front pumps empty

There is an above the water line thru-hull on each side
of the bow. Each pump emptys through it's own
fitting.

I'd hook up a T fitting and use that exit fitting.

It would be about 18 feet from the back of the boat
to the front thru-hull. Plus it would be through
a "T" and up a bit to the hole. And I suppose a
check-valve would be needed to keep the water
from pumping back out the other (wrong/pump)
side of the "T". ~ But maybe.

That would work fine actually.

Although that underwater fitting makes me nervous.

Q: Or better to just not worry about it, let the front pumps
do their job, and fix the leak over the winter?

Or you could just not worry about it, let the front pumps do their
thing and fix the leak over the winter.

Aren't you glad you asked? :)

Funny guy.

My long suffering wife of thirty years says that a lot - usually
followed by ~~ expletive deleted ~~.

Later,

Tom

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in
message:


Why would they have an exit point underwater? That makes no sense.


It might make one nervous but is does make sense. The sense is in the idea
that it's the water running past the thru-hull that creates the suction that
pulls
the bilge water from the boat. ~ In the age of strong batteries and good
electric pumps the need for a non-electric "pump" might seem silly. But
I guess in 1958 when the boat was made maybe pumps weren't so
good or cheap or something ???

Now that you said that, I'd secure/cap that fitting off and put a new
one higher than the water line.


Well, I don't really want to put any more visiable holes in this old boat
than I already have - so maybe I'll take your idea of running a hose
up to the front and to a "T". Or maybe just not worry about it.

This has got to be a pretty old boat in quite origional state. What he has
is an old swan neck self bailer, and I haven't seen one of those in a while.
When you get on it, the water level inside the boat is higher than that
directly at the transom. The force of the water flowing back shoots the
water through the tube and starts a siphon. Problem is when the boat starts
to sink, and the water gets above the neck, it starts filling into the boat.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 13:18:55 -0400, "Gary Warner"
wrote:


"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in
message


I'm having a problem visualizing the fitting - do you mean it's
underwater?

Yes.

Why would they have an exit point underwater? That makes no sense.

Now that you said that, I'd secure/cap that fitting off and put a new
one higher than the water line.

And where do the front pumps empty

There is an above the water line thru-hull on each side
of the bow. Each pump emptys through it's own
fitting.

I'd hook up a T fitting and use that exit fitting.

It would be about 18 feet from the back of the boat
to the front thru-hull. Plus it would be through
a "T" and up a bit to the hole. And I suppose a
check-valve would be needed to keep the water
from pumping back out the other (wrong/pump)
side of the "T". ~ But maybe.

That would work fine actually.

Although that underwater fitting makes me nervous.

Q: Or better to just not worry about it, let the front pumps
do their job, and fix the leak over the winter?

Or you could just not worry about it, let the front pumps do their
thing and fix the leak over the winter.

Aren't you glad you asked? :)

Funny guy.

My long suffering wife of thirty years says that a lot - usually
followed by ~~ expletive deleted ~~.

Later,

Tom

"HLAviation" wrote
This has got to be a pretty old boat in quite origional state.

1958 Chris Craft
As Original as we can get it without being unsafe or spending a fortune.


Problem is when the boat starts to sink, and the water
gets above the neck, it starts filling into the boat.


It would take 12+ inches of water inside the boat to
make this happen. As you note, it'd pretty much be
sinking anyway. Whatever got me to that point
would be a much greater problem than this tube.

At that point I'd just stuff a rag in the tube and push
it in there really tight with a screw-driver to stop the flow.

Then I'd start worrying about my real problem again.


; )