On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 13:18:55 -0400, "Gary Warner"
wrote:


"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message


I'm having a problem visualizing the fitting - do you mean it's
underwater?

Yes.

Why would they have an exit point underwater? That makes no sense.

Now that you said that, I'd secure/cap that fitting off and put a new
one higher than the water line.

And where do the front pumps empty

There is an above the water line thru-hull on each side
of the bow. Each pump emptys through it's own
fitting.

I'd hook up a T fitting and use that exit fitting.

It would be about 18 feet from the back of the boat
to the front thru-hull. Plus it would be through
a "T" and up a bit to the hole. And I suppose a
check-valve would be needed to keep the water
from pumping back out the other (wrong/pump)
side of the "T". ~ But maybe.

That would work fine actually.

Although that underwater fitting makes me nervous.

Q: Or better to just not worry about it, let the front pumps
do their job, and fix the leak over the winter?

Or you could just not worry about it, let the front pumps do their
thing and fix the leak over the winter.

Aren't you glad you asked? :)

Funny guy.

My long suffering wife of thirty years says that a lot - usually
followed by ~~ expletive deleted ~~.

Later,

Tom

On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 16:37:06 GMT, "HLAviation"
wrote:


"Gary Warner" wrote in message
...

A few questions/topics from our weekend
boating. (See my other post for a narrative of that.)


HEAT ALARM:
We've got a temp gauge but I'm thinking I might want an
alarm too. Do these typically work with the existing
sensor & gauge? Any recommendations on good ones?

Requires seperate sender, Perhaps VDO makes a combo unit?

STOWING ANCHOR ROPE:
A few experiments showed me that trying to tie the anchor
rope into some bundle makes it hard to undo without a mess.
I'm thinking to just use a mesh bag, feed the rope into it, and
leave and end hanging out so it can't work it's way into a
knot. Does that work or no?

Yes, as does coiling/flaking down in a milk crate depending on your
storage/seating situation.

ANCHORING:
I've got a 18 lb Danforth for our 22' and 4000# boat.
We've got about 120' of rope (rode?) with some
heavy chain. Mostly we'll be in lakes, Hudson River,
and Boston Harbor. Probably not anchor much.
I'm thinking that in 30' water we'd still have 4:1
scope and that might be ok for us. I guess more rope really
can't hurt except for $$$ and stowage space.

Oh, and I have another 13 lb here. If I was planning
on an overnight maybe I could get more rope and
use the two in conjunction?

20' chain & 120 rode is plenty for most conditions in a protectected
anchorage. Using 2 can help, but if not done properly can also foul and
drag.

BILGE SIPHON:
Our boat has (original) a siphon system to remove bilge water. It's a
thru-hull in the aft with an opening that points aft. Attached to that
is a hose and then a brass tube with a bend in it. This makes an arc
that gets to about 14: above the bottom of the boat. As the boat
moves forward it's supposed to create a suction that pulls water
from the bilge.

A trickle of water enters our bilge between the bottom-most plank
and the keel. I'm not planning on tackling this fix until the winter
so for now there is always some water in the bilge.

We also have two 1100 GPH pumps mounted forward that
work - but only when stopped and the water has run forward.

Q: By look or feel I couldn't tell if the siphon is working. And
ideas on how to tell?

I just can't seem to picture that system properly.

I couldn't either. I'd cap the underwater one and put one above the
waterline.

Later,

Tom

bject: Weekend Boating - New Questions
From: "Gary Warner"
Date: 07/26/2004 07:11 Pacific Standard Time
Message-id:


A few questions/topics from our weekend
boating. (See my other post for a narrative of that.)


HEAT ALARM:
We've got a temp gauge but I'm thinking I might want an
alarm too. Do these typically work with the existing
sensor & gauge? Any recommendations on good ones?

I used to set up a panel of gauges in a boats ER for deisels that used Murphy
gauges (Murphy Switch? Trip? Safety? Been awhile can't remember exact name)
where the gauge itself had electrical connections run to an alarm.
The good news was that we could set the alarm points as high or low as we
wanted.
May be more than you need or want.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in
message:


Why would they have an exit point underwater? That makes no sense.


It might make one nervous but is does make sense. The sense is in the idea
that it's the water running past the thru-hull that creates the suction that
pulls
the bilge water from the boat. ~ In the age of strong batteries and good
electric pumps the need for a non-electric "pump" might seem silly. But
I guess in 1958 when the boat was made maybe pumps weren't so
good or cheap or something ???

Now that you said that, I'd secure/cap that fitting off and put a new
one higher than the water line.


Well, I don't really want to put any more visiable holes in this old boat
than I already have - so maybe I'll take your idea of running a hose
up to the front and to a "T". Or maybe just not worry about it.

Here's a picture (someone elses) of the pipe portion.

I also forgot to mention, there is a little screen that goes
over the pipe where it sets in the bilge.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tego ry=26455

And here's a picture of the thru-hull fitting.
(Again, someone elses)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tego ry=26455

Gary, just drill the damned hole and see what happens. Do you have kids? Do
you use liquid detergent? Slice some empty bottles into scoopers and teach
the kids to bail the bilge with them. What are kids for? They'll do anything
for a box of fruit roll-ups.

Let us know how this plan goes. :-) :-)

"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...
Gary, just drill the damned hole and see what happens. Do you have kids?
Do
you use liquid detergent? Slice some empty bottles into scoopers and teach
the kids to bail the bilge with them. What are kids for? They'll do
anything
for a box of fruit roll-ups.

Let us know how this plan goes. :-) :-)


Actually maybe two holes would be better. I mean, if one's good
surely two must be better ??





PS: I ask some detailed and not-so-important questions here sometimes. Often
I could decide for myself. But I figure this IS a boating group and maybe
people
would be interested. Besides, I sometimes get creative ideas.

Harry,
I have two questions for you:

1. What type of anchor do you use on your Lobster Boat?

2. When have you used your anchor this year?


"Harry Krause" wrote in message
...
Gary Warner wrote:

A few questions/topics from our weekend
boating. (See my other post for a narrative of that.)


HEAT ALARM:
We've got a temp gauge but I'm thinking I might want an
alarm too. Do these typically work with the existing
sensor & gauge? Any recommendations on good ones?

STOWING ANCHOR ROPE:
A few experiments showed me that trying to tie the anchor
rope into some bundle makes it hard to undo without a mess.
I'm thinking to just use a mesh bag, feed the rope into it, and
leave and end hanging out so it can't work it's way into a
knot. Does that work or no?

For the last boat I owned without an anchor rode locker, I simply
loosely coiled the rode into a large plastic laundry basket and plopped
the anchor on top of the rope. It worked without entanglements.




ANCHORING:
I've got a 18 lb Danforth for our 22' and 4000# boat.
We've got about 120' of rope (rode?) with some
heavy chain. Mostly we'll be in lakes, Hudson River,
and Boston Harbor. Probably not anchor much.
I'm thinking that in 30' water we'd still have 4:1
scope and that might be ok for us. I guess more rope really
can't hurt except for $$$ and stowage space.

Oh, and I have another 13 lb here. If I was planning
on an overnight maybe I could get more rope and
use the two in conjunction?

Dealing with two anchors is a pain in the butt under many circumstances.
Your 18 pounder is heavy enough for your boat (I use a lighter Danforth
on my nearly 7000 pound Parker) if the bottom is Danforth-friendly. But
I'd get more rode if you are planning to anchor in areas with swift
current.



--
A vote for Nader is a vote for Bush;
A vote for Bush is a vote for Apocalypse.

On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 13:15:15 -0400, "Gary Warner"
wrote:


Here's a better description of our "siphon" system:

* There is a thru-hull fitting

* It is located at the back of the boat about 1 foot
port of center. Is below the waterline.

* The thru-hull fitting looks bit like water intake
for the engine cooling water. But it is smaller and
it's opening faces backward instead of forward.

* The part of the thru-hull fitting is just a round
"tube" that a hoes goes over.

* There is a hose clamped to the thru-hull. The hose
is about 12" long.

* Clamped to the other end of the hose is a brass pipe
with a bend in it.

* The other end of the brass pipe sets in a little
"well" at the bottom of the bilge.

The entire thing looks like an upside down "U".

As the boat moves forward at speed the lake
water running past the outside part of the thru-hull
creates a vaccume in the hose-tube-combination.

The water in the bilge is then (theoretically) sucked
up the brass-tube, then into the hose, then out
the thru-hull fitting.

thanks for the info.

Later,

Tom