On Tuesday, 6 May 1997 08:00:00 UTC+1, wrote:
?Help, my force 85 hp needs the flywheel removed and the things stuck fast, penetrant
oil is useless. How much if any heat can be applied where to get it loose? Its only been
on two years and was installed with neversieze so it shouldnt be such a pain.
Thanks in advance
tom.

Loosen the flyweel nut and apply WD40 (or similar) to shaft - leave overnight. Use a correct puller (make or buy) threaded into the (usually) three holes in the flywheel. With the centre bolt torqued up with as much as you can muster with a typical standard length socket wrench and holding the flywheel with a strap wrench to stop rotation, hit the centre bolt to jar the taper free. May need several blows, but don't overdo it! I would consider that heat is the last resort, as the risk of damage is high. By the way, heating the flywheel enlarges the centre hole because the whole flywheel becomes slightly larger, including the centre hole.

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 07:00:28 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Tuesday, 6 May 1997 08:00:00 UTC+1, wrote:
?Help, my force 85 hp needs the flywheel removed and the things stuck fast, penetrant
oil is useless. How much if any heat can be applied where to get it loose? Its only been
on two years and was installed with neversieze so it shouldnt be such a pain.
Thanks in advance
tom.

Loosen the flyweel nut and apply WD40 (or similar) to shaft - leave overnight. Use a correct puller (make or buy) threaded into the (usually) three holes in the flywheel. With the centre bolt torqued up with as much as you can muster with a typical standard length socket wrench and holding the flywheel with a strap wrench to stop rotation, hit the centre bolt to jar the taper free. May need several blows, but don't overdo it! I would consider that heat is the last resort, as the risk of damage is high. By the way, heating the flywheel enlarges the centre hole because the whole flywheel becomes slightly larger, including the centre hole.

You'd think that after 20 years the WD40 may have loosened it up. Personally, I'd go for PB B'laster
instead of WD40.

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 07:00:28 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Tuesday, 6 May 1997 08:00:00 UTC+1, wrote:
?Help, my force 85 hp needs the flywheel removed and the things stuck fast, penetrant
oil is useless. How much if any heat can be applied where to get it loose? Its only been
on two years and was installed with neversieze so it shouldnt be such a pain.
Thanks in advance
tom.

Loosen the flyweel nut and apply WD40 (or similar) to shaft - leave overnight. Use a correct puller (make or buy) threaded into the (usually) three holes in the flywheel. With the centre bolt torqued up with as much as you can muster with a typical standard length socket wrench and holding the flywheel with a strap wrench to stop rotation, hit the centre bolt to jar the taper free. May need several blows, but don't overdo it! I would consider that heat is the last resort, as the risk of damage is high. By the way, heating the flywheel enlarges the centre hole because the whole flywheel becomes slightly larger, including the centre hole.

I have had a lot of luck by putting the puller on cranking it down as
tight as you can get it and walk away. Sometime over night they
usually pop off. Be sure to leave the nut on loosely so when the
flywheel pops loose, it won't fall to the ground. If it is not loose
by morning use a heat gun to warm up the flywheel and put ice on the
shaft. (circuit cooler, dry ice or whatever)
If you get it too hot you will destroy the magnets.

On 12/10/17 12:46 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 07:00:28 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Tuesday, 6 May 1997 08:00:00 UTC+1, wrote:
?Help, my force 85 hp needs the flywheel removed and the things stuck fast, penetrant
oil is useless. How much if any heat can be applied where to get it loose? Its only been
on two years and was installed with neversieze so it shouldnt be such a pain.
Thanks in advance
tom.

Loosen the flyweel nut and apply WD40 (or similar) to shaft - leave overnight. Use a correct puller (make or buy) threaded into the (usually) three holes in the flywheel. With the centre bolt torqued up with as much as you can muster with a typical standard length socket wrench and holding the flywheel with a strap wrench to stop rotation, hit the centre bolt to jar the taper free. May need several blows, but don't overdo it! I would consider that heat is the last resort, as the risk of damage is high. By the way, heating the flywheel enlarges the centre hole because the whole flywheel becomes slightly larger, including the centre hole.

I have had a lot of luck by putting the puller on cranking it down as
tight as you can get it and walk away. Sometime over night they
usually pop off. Be sure to leave the nut on loosely so when the
flywheel pops loose, it won't fall to the ground. If it is not loose
by morning use a heat gun to warm up the flywheel and put ice on the
shaft. (circuit cooler, dry ice or whatever)
If you get it too hot you will destroy the magnets.


I'd guess that Force 85 now resides in the Outboard Happy Hunting Ground
at the bottom of a bay somewhere...

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 11:17:02 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 07:00:28 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Tuesday, 6 May 1997 08:00:00 UTC+1, wrote:
?Help, my force 85 hp needs the flywheel removed and the things stuck fast, penetrant
oil is useless. How much if any heat can be applied where to get it loose? Its only been
on two years and was installed with neversieze so it shouldnt be such a pain.
Thanks in advance
tom.

Loosen the flyweel nut and apply WD40 (or similar) to shaft - leave overnight. Use a correct puller (make or buy) threaded into the (usually) three holes in the flywheel. With the centre bolt torqued up with as much as you can muster with a typical standard length socket wrench and holding the flywheel with a strap wrench to stop rotation, hit the centre bolt to jar the taper free. May need several blows, but don't overdo it! I would consider that heat is the last resort, as the risk of damage is high. By the way, heating the flywheel enlarges the centre hole because the whole flywheel becomes slightly larger, including the centre hole.

You'd think that after 20 years the WD40 may have loosened it up. Personally, I'd go for PB B'laster
instead of WD40.

WD40 is great for what it was designed for (Water Displacement) but a
poor substitute for a lot of things people use it for.
It really doesn't matter much on these flywheels tho. That is 2 finely
machined parts pressed together with thousands of pounds of force.
(75-85 ft/lbs times the mechanical advantage of a fine thread screw)
The joint is pretty much air tight and a liquid solvent is not getting
in there. Heat is the real answer but you don't need a lot of heat to
break that bond if it is applied properly and you have a little
patience. The puller on, overnight, always seems to work for me. I
think it may just be the cool night air followed by sunrise heating up
the flywheel or something. They always seem to be loose by the time I
get up ;-)

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 14:01:22 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 11:17:02 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 07:00:28 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Tuesday, 6 May 1997 08:00:00 UTC+1, wrote:
?Help, my force 85 hp needs the flywheel removed and the things stuck fast, penetrant
oil is useless. How much if any heat can be applied where to get it loose? Its only been
on two years and was installed with neversieze so it shouldnt be such a pain.
Thanks in advance
tom.

Loosen the flyweel nut and apply WD40 (or similar) to shaft - leave overnight. Use a correct puller (make or buy) threaded into the (usually) three holes in the flywheel. With the centre bolt torqued up with as much as you can muster with a typical standard length socket wrench and holding the flywheel with a strap wrench to stop rotation, hit the centre bolt to jar the taper free. May need several blows, but don't overdo it! I would consider that heat is the last resort, as the risk of damage is high. By the way, heating the flywheel enlarges the centre hole because the whole flywheel becomes slightly larger, including the centre hole.

You'd think that after 20 years the WD40 may have loosened it up. Personally, I'd go for PB B'laster
instead of WD40.

WD40 is great for what it was designed for (Water Displacement) but a
poor substitute for a lot of things people use it for.
It really doesn't matter much on these flywheels tho. That is 2 finely
machined parts pressed together with thousands of pounds of force.
(75-85 ft/lbs times the mechanical advantage of a fine thread screw)
The joint is pretty much air tight and a liquid solvent is not getting
in there. Heat is the real answer but you don't need a lot of heat to
break that bond if it is applied properly and you have a little
patience. The puller on, overnight, always seems to work for me. I
think it may just be the cool night air followed by sunrise heating up
the flywheel or something. They always seem to be loose by the time I
get up ;-)

I've always had pretty good luck with PB Blaster, but agree that a bit of heat has it's uses.

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 12:56:41 -0500, Keyser Soze
wrote:

On 12/10/17 12:46 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 07:00:28 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Tuesday, 6 May 1997 08:00:00 UTC+1, wrote:
?Help, my force 85 hp needs the flywheel removed and the things stuck fast, penetrant
oil is useless. How much if any heat can be applied where to get it loose? Its only been
on two years and was installed with neversieze so it shouldnt be such a pain.
Thanks in advance
tom.

Loosen the flyweel nut and apply WD40 (or similar) to shaft - leave overnight. Use a correct puller (make or buy) threaded into the (usually) three holes in the flywheel. With the centre bolt torqued up with as much as you can muster with a typical standard length socket wrench and holding the flywheel with a strap wrench to stop rotation, hit the centre bolt to jar the taper free. May need several blows, but don't overdo it! I would consider that heat is the last resort, as the risk of damage is high. By the way, heating the flywheel enlarges the centre hole because the whole flywheel becomes slightly larger, including the centre hole.

I have had a lot of luck by putting the puller on cranking it down as
tight as you can get it and walk away. Sometime over night they
usually pop off. Be sure to leave the nut on loosely so when the
flywheel pops loose, it won't fall to the ground. If it is not loose
by morning use a heat gun to warm up the flywheel and put ice on the
shaft. (circuit cooler, dry ice or whatever)
If you get it too hot you will destroy the magnets.


I'd guess that Force 85 now resides in the Outboard Happy Hunting Ground
at the bottom of a bay somewhere...

The flywheel trick works the same way on a brand new Yamaha. You
actually have to do it more often because of the belt. On a 2 stroke
you usually only pull the flywheel to replace the stator.
I actually had mine off within a month on my F70, to drill and tap the
water manifold for a temp sensor.
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/water%20temp%20sensor.jpg

I also had to trick up an oil pressure sensor because Yamaha thought
oil pressure was not important for any more than a switch.

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 14:16:55 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 14:01:22 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 11:17:02 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 07:00:28 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Tuesday, 6 May 1997 08:00:00 UTC+1, wrote:
?Help, my force 85 hp needs the flywheel removed and the things stuck fast, penetrant
oil is useless. How much if any heat can be applied where to get it loose? Its only been
on two years and was installed with neversieze so it shouldnt be such a pain.
Thanks in advance
tom.

Loosen the flyweel nut and apply WD40 (or similar) to shaft - leave overnight. Use a correct puller (make or buy) threaded into the (usually) three holes in the flywheel. With the centre bolt torqued up with as much as you can muster with a typical standard length socket wrench and holding the flywheel with a strap wrench to stop rotation, hit the centre bolt to jar the taper free. May need several blows, but don't overdo it! I would consider that heat is the last resort, as the risk of damage is high. By the way, heating the flywheel enlarges the centre hole because the whole flywheel becomes slightly larger, including the centre hole.

You'd think that after 20 years the WD40 may have loosened it up. Personally, I'd go for PB B'laster
instead of WD40.

WD40 is great for what it was designed for (Water Displacement) but a
poor substitute for a lot of things people use it for.
It really doesn't matter much on these flywheels tho. That is 2 finely
machined parts pressed together with thousands of pounds of force.
(75-85 ft/lbs times the mechanical advantage of a fine thread screw)
The joint is pretty much air tight and a liquid solvent is not getting
in there. Heat is the real answer but you don't need a lot of heat to
break that bond if it is applied properly and you have a little
patience. The puller on, overnight, always seems to work for me. I
think it may just be the cool night air followed by sunrise heating up
the flywheel or something. They always seem to be loose by the time I
get up ;-)

I've always had pretty good luck with PB Blaster, but agree that a bit of heat has it's uses.

Blaster works on threads because they are not really that a tight a
fit and it penetrates the corrosion in the gap. The flywheel is a
tapered surface matching another tapered surface. A gas valve works
the same way and it is gas tight even under moderate spring pressure.
When you put a nut on that and torque it down they are almost friction
welded together.
Most of the help I see with blaster is really after it starts to move
anyway. It keeps you from galling up your new found freedom and allows
you to keep going.

Dec
On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 11:17:02 -0500, John H
wrote:
- show quoted text -
WD40 is great for what it was designed for (Water Displacement) but a
poor substitute for a lot of things people use it for.
It really doesn't matter much on these flywheels tho. That is 2 finely
machined parts pressed together with thousands of pounds of force.
(75-85 ft/lbs times the mechanical advantage of a fine thread screw)
The joint is pretty much air tight and a liquid solvent is not getting
in there. Heat is the real answer but you don't need a lot of heat to
break that bond if it is applied properly and you have a little
patience. The puller on, overnight, always seems to work for me. I
think it may just be the cool night air followed by sunrise heating up
the flywheel or something. They always seem to be loose by the time I
get up ;-)
......

I’ve found that tapping (with reasonable force) around the hub of the flywheel with a hammer helps to unstick the wheel from the tapered shaft.. It’s always rusty in and especially around the key....

On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 07:48:57 -0800 (PST), Tim
wrote:


Dec
On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 11:17:02 -0500, John H
wrote:
- show quoted text -
WD40 is great for what it was designed for (Water Displacement) but a
poor substitute for a lot of things people use it for.
It really doesn't matter much on these flywheels tho. That is 2 finely
machined parts pressed together with thousands of pounds of force.
(75-85 ft/lbs times the mechanical advantage of a fine thread screw)
The joint is pretty much air tight and a liquid solvent is not getting
in there. Heat is the real answer but you don't need a lot of heat to
break that bond if it is applied properly and you have a little
patience. The puller on, overnight, always seems to work for me. I
think it may just be the cool night air followed by sunrise heating up
the flywheel or something. They always seem to be loose by the time I
get up ;-)
.....

I’ve found that tapping (with reasonable force) around the hub of the flywheel with a hammer helps to unstick the wheel from the tapered shaft. It’s always rusty in and especially around the key....

Yup, anything to break that seal. You just need to be careful not to
hit things too hard. The puller is still the main thing tho. Once you
get that force on the joint, the shock (thermal or mechanical) is far
more effective. I haven't tried it but I hear that dry ice works
great. Heat up the flywheel with a heat gun and put a chunk of dry ice
on the end of the shaft. (Never had easy access to dry ice)
I have used freon based circuit cooler back when that was a thing.