wrote:
On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 07:48:57 -0800 (PST), Tim
wrote:


Dec
On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 11:17:02 -0500, John H
wrote:
- show quoted text -
WD40 is great for what it was designed for (Water Displacement) but a
poor substitute for a lot of things people use it for.
It really doesn't matter much on these flywheels tho. That is 2 finely
machined parts pressed together with thousands of pounds of force.
(75-85 ft/lbs times the mechanical advantage of a fine thread screw)
The joint is pretty much air tight and a liquid solvent is not getting
in there. Heat is the real answer but you don't need a lot of heat to
break that bond if it is applied properly and you have a little
patience. The puller on, overnight, always seems to work for me. I
think it may just be the cool night air followed by sunrise heating up
the flywheel or something. They always seem to be loose by the time I
get up ;-)
.....

I’ve found that tapping (with reasonable force) around the hub of the
flywheel with a hammer helps to unstick the wheel from the tapered
shaft. It’s always rusty in and especially around the key....

Yup, anything to break that seal. You just need to be careful not to
hit things too hard. The puller is still the main thing tho. Once you
get that force on the joint, the shock (thermal or mechanical) is far
more effective. I haven't tried it but I hear that dry ice works
great. Heat up the flywheel with a heat gun and put a chunk of dry ice
on the end of the shaft. (Never had easy access to dry ice)
I have used freon based circuit cooler back when that was a thing.


You can buy dry ice at our local grocery store.

On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 19:01:48 -0000 (UTC), Bill wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 07:48:57 -0800 (PST), Tim
wrote:


Dec
On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 11:17:02 -0500, John H
wrote:
- show quoted text -
WD40 is great for what it was designed for (Water Displacement) but a
poor substitute for a lot of things people use it for.
It really doesn't matter much on these flywheels tho. That is 2 finely
machined parts pressed together with thousands of pounds of force.
(75-85 ft/lbs times the mechanical advantage of a fine thread screw)
The joint is pretty much air tight and a liquid solvent is not getting
in there. Heat is the real answer but you don't need a lot of heat to
break that bond if it is applied properly and you have a little
patience. The puller on, overnight, always seems to work for me. I
think it may just be the cool night air followed by sunrise heating up
the flywheel or something. They always seem to be loose by the time I
get up ;-)
.....

I’ve found that tapping (with reasonable force) around the hub of the
flywheel with a hammer helps to unstick the wheel from the tapered
shaft. It’s always rusty in and especially around the key....

Yup, anything to break that seal. You just need to be careful not to
hit things too hard. The puller is still the main thing tho. Once you
get that force on the joint, the shock (thermal or mechanical) is far
more effective. I haven't tried it but I hear that dry ice works
great. Heat up the flywheel with a heat gun and put a chunk of dry ice
on the end of the shaft. (Never had easy access to dry ice)
I have used freon based circuit cooler back when that was a thing.


You can buy dry ice at our local grocery store.

Our local Safeway carried it for a while, maybe a whole summer, but then stopped. Don't know why.

John H
- show quoted text -
Our local Safeway carried it for a while, maybe a whole summer, but then stopped. Don't know why.

.....
None of our local stores carry it.

On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 19:01:48 -0000 (UTC), Bill
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 07:48:57 -0800 (PST), Tim
wrote:


Dec
On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 11:17:02 -0500, John H
wrote:
- show quoted text -
WD40 is great for what it was designed for (Water Displacement) but a
poor substitute for a lot of things people use it for.
It really doesn't matter much on these flywheels tho. That is 2 finely
machined parts pressed together with thousands of pounds of force.
(75-85 ft/lbs times the mechanical advantage of a fine thread screw)
The joint is pretty much air tight and a liquid solvent is not getting
in there. Heat is the real answer but you don't need a lot of heat to
break that bond if it is applied properly and you have a little
patience. The puller on, overnight, always seems to work for me. I
think it may just be the cool night air followed by sunrise heating up
the flywheel or something. They always seem to be loose by the time I
get up ;-)
.....

I’ve found that tapping (with reasonable force) around the hub of the
flywheel with a hammer helps to unstick the wheel from the tapered
shaft. It’s always rusty in and especially around the key....

Yup, anything to break that seal. You just need to be careful not to
hit things too hard. The puller is still the main thing tho. Once you
get that force on the joint, the shock (thermal or mechanical) is far
more effective. I haven't tried it but I hear that dry ice works
great. Heat up the flywheel with a heat gun and put a chunk of dry ice
on the end of the shaft. (Never had easy access to dry ice)
I have used freon based circuit cooler back when that was a thing.


You can buy dry ice at our local grocery store.

They had it at publix for a while but I have not seen it lately. I
guess they couldn't sell it before it just went away.