On 11/11/16, 9:48 AM, Tim wrote:
8:32 AMKeyser Söze
On 11/11/16, 9:14 AM, Tim wrote:
Maybe I did it wrong but on my mercruiser outboards I got tired of trying to squeeze it up from the bottom. So I'd do that as much as I could stand. Then I'd take the four bolts off the top of the drive and pour it to the top. And leave it for a half hour or so. Yep. Up comes little bubbles. I'd top it off and re-cap the lower.

Never had a problem. Bit I don't think it'd work well with an outboard though. Lol!


Gosh, Tim, in the 1950s, we had a three wheel dolly that held a five
gallon can of lower unit oil fitted with a commercial grade hand pump
that made the job easy. I know this because one of my first jobs at the
boat shop was changing out the oil in lower units and refilling them.
The store also sold a little hand pump with a fitting and tubing that
made filling the lower unit easy. Cost maybe $5 back then. Technology,
ain't it amazing?
...

That's fine if you have a commercial shop. But it's not be necessary for a DIY.
Changing gear live 3 times in 10 years doesnt warrant me having something eels to kick out of the way...


The little $5 hand pump I mentioned probably is $10 these days...

8:53 AMKeyser Söze
- show quoted text -
The little $5 hand pump I mentioned probably is $10 these days...
....

The squeeze robe the oil comes in is threaded to screw into the lower end and squeeze then despise of. I don't need a pump and my method works fine for me, and probably more efficient to let all the air out.

But thanks for the boating tip

On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 07:11:14 -0800 (PST), Tim
wrote:

is threaded to screw into the lower end

Then the question is "which lower end". Mercs use American threads,
Yamaha is commie metric.

10:36
On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 07:11:14 -0800 (PST), Tim
wrote:

is threaded to screw into the lower end

Then the question is "which lower end". Mercs use American threads,
Yamaha is commie metric.
....

I'd think that Dons would be "metrique"...