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Posts: 36,387
Default Door job

I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day
for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out
into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top
coats.
Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible
job, just messy.
It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back
on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint,
using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part
paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and
it is pretty tough.
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jul 2007
Posts: 36,387
Default Door job

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 06:58:33 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:08:42 -0400, wrote:

I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day
for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out
into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top
coats.
Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible
job, just messy.
It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back
on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint,
using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part
paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and
it is pretty tough.


Pictures? I redid out oak front door, after looking at prices for new ones. Came out pretty good,
but there was too much weathering on the bottom for a good finish. Put a brass kick plate on it.
Looks almost like new - or at least close enough my wife's not complaining about it anymore. I
couldn't believe how much new doors cost.


This is a metal door.I got it when my wife was building houses and we
got it for about 40% of list from her buddy at the door company. I
don't think they are that expensive anyway, at least not compared to
the corner slider we have in the back (150 MPH wind code and impact
glass)

This is after wire brushing one side
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/door%20stripped.jpg
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Default Door job

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:38:29 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 06:58:33 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:08:42 -0400,
wrote:

I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day
for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out
into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top
coats.
Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible
job, just messy.
It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back
on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint,
using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part
paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and
it is pretty tough.


Pictures? I redid out oak front door, after looking at prices for new ones. Came out pretty good,
but there was too much weathering on the bottom for a good finish. Put a brass kick plate on it.
Looks almost like new - or at least close enough my wife's not complaining about it anymore. I
couldn't believe how much new doors cost.


This is a metal door.I got it when my wife was building houses and we
got it for about 40% of list from her buddy at the door company. I
don't think they are that expensive anyway, at least not compared to
the corner slider we have in the back (150 MPH wind code and impact
glass)

This is after wire brushing one side
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/door%20stripped.jpg


I knew yours was metal. The words 'bare metal' was a giveaway! . I was wondering how the 'appliance
epoxy' stuff turned out. I've got some wrought iron railings on the basement steps that are looking
more rusted than black. Always looking for some to finish them with that won't rust through in a
couple months, like RustOLeum does.
--

Ban liars, tax cheats, juvenile name-callers, and narcissists...not guns!
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Mar 2016
Posts: 894
Default Door job

Keine Keyserscheiße wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:38:29 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 06:58:33 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:08:42 -0400,
wrote:

I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day
for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out
into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top
coats.
Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible
job, just messy.
It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back
on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint,
using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part
paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and
it is pretty tough.

Pictures? I redid out oak front door, after looking at prices for new
ones. Came out pretty good,
but there was too much weathering on the bottom for a good finish. Put
a brass kick plate on it.
Looks almost like new - or at least close enough my wife's not
complaining about it anymore. I
couldn't believe how much new doors cost.


This is a metal door.I got it when my wife was building houses and we
got it for about 40% of list from her buddy at the door company. I
don't think they are that expensive anyway, at least not compared to
the corner slider we have in the back (150 MPH wind code and impact
glass)

This is after wire brushing one side
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/door%20stripped.jpg


I knew yours was metal. The words 'bare metal' was a giveaway! . I was
wondering how the 'appliance
epoxy' stuff turned out. I've got some wrought iron railings on the
basement steps that are looking
more rusted than black. Always looking for some to finish them with that
won't rust through in a
couple months, like RustOLeum does.
--

Ban liars, tax cheats, juvenile name-callers, and narcissists...not guns!


I hire my door redone every couple years. Is fairly reasonable, and they
were the ones who originally did the door coating / staining. But is a
very nice natural cherry double door.



  #6   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jul 2007
Posts: 36,387
Default Door job

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 15:56:07 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:38:29 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 06:58:33 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:08:42 -0400,
wrote:

I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day
for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out
into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top
coats.
Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible
job, just messy.
It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back
on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint,
using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part
paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and
it is pretty tough.

Pictures? I redid out oak front door, after looking at prices for new ones. Came out pretty good,
but there was too much weathering on the bottom for a good finish. Put a brass kick plate on it.
Looks almost like new - or at least close enough my wife's not complaining about it anymore. I
couldn't believe how much new doors cost.


This is a metal door.I got it when my wife was building houses and we
got it for about 40% of list from her buddy at the door company. I
don't think they are that expensive anyway, at least not compared to
the corner slider we have in the back (150 MPH wind code and impact
glass)

This is after wire brushing one side
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/door%20stripped.jpg


I knew yours was metal. The words 'bare metal' was a giveaway! . I was wondering how the 'appliance
epoxy' stuff turned out. I've got some wrought iron railings on the basement steps that are looking
more rusted than black. Always looking for some to finish them with that won't rust through in a
couple months, like RustOLeum does.


The problem with that is doing the proper prep. You want bare metal,
then a coat of primer, (maybe 2 on steel) and then your two top coats.
The prep and primer are as important as the paint.
When we were painting the ship it was a coat of zinc chromate, 2 coats
of red lead and 2 coats of paint but that was steel that would be
floating in salt water.

I would put in an aluminum rail ;-)
  #7   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Mar 2016
Posts: 259
Default Door job

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 23:09:39 -0400, wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 15:56:07 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:38:29 -0400,
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 06:58:33 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:08:42 -0400,
wrote:

I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day
for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out
into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top
coats.
Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible
job, just messy.
It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back
on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint,
using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part
paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and
it is pretty tough.

Pictures? I redid out oak front door, after looking at prices for new ones. Came out pretty good,
but there was too much weathering on the bottom for a good finish. Put a brass kick plate on it.
Looks almost like new - or at least close enough my wife's not complaining about it anymore. I
couldn't believe how much new doors cost.

This is a metal door.I got it when my wife was building houses and we
got it for about 40% of list from her buddy at the door company. I
don't think they are that expensive anyway, at least not compared to
the corner slider we have in the back (150 MPH wind code and impact
glass)

This is after wire brushing one side
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/door%20stripped.jpg


I knew yours was metal. The words 'bare metal' was a giveaway! . I was wondering how the 'appliance
epoxy' stuff turned out. I've got some wrought iron railings on the basement steps that are looking
more rusted than black. Always looking for some to finish them with that won't rust through in a
couple months, like RustOLeum does.


The problem with that is doing the proper prep. You want bare metal,
then a coat of primer, (maybe 2 on steel) and then your two top coats.
The prep and primer are as important as the paint.
When we were painting the ship it was a coat of zinc chromate, 2 coats
of red lead and 2 coats of paint but that was steel that would be
floating in salt water.

I would put in an aluminum rail ;-)


Good idea.
--

Ban liars, tax cheats, juvenile name-callers, and narcissists...not guns!
  #8   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,832
Default Door job

On 4/20/16 11:09 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 15:56:07 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:38:29 -0400,
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 06:58:33 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:08:42 -0400,
wrote:

I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day
for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out
into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top
coats.
Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible
job, just messy.
It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back
on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint,
using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part
paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and
it is pretty tough.

Pictures? I redid out oak front door, after looking at prices for new ones. Came out pretty good,
but there was too much weathering on the bottom for a good finish. Put a brass kick plate on it.
Looks almost like new - or at least close enough my wife's not complaining about it anymore. I
couldn't believe how much new doors cost.

This is a metal door.I got it when my wife was building houses and we
got it for about 40% of list from her buddy at the door company. I
don't think they are that expensive anyway, at least not compared to
the corner slider we have in the back (150 MPH wind code and impact
glass)

This is after wire brushing one side
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/door%20stripped.jpg


I knew yours was metal. The words 'bare metal' was a giveaway! . I was wondering how the 'appliance
epoxy' stuff turned out. I've got some wrought iron railings on the basement steps that are looking
more rusted than black. Always looking for some to finish them with that won't rust through in a
couple months, like RustOLeum does.


The problem with that is doing the proper prep. You want bare metal,
then a coat of primer, (maybe 2 on steel) and then your two top coats.
The prep and primer are as important as the paint.
When we were painting the ship it was a coat of zinc chromate, 2 coats
of red lead and 2 coats of paint but that was steel that would be
floating in salt water.

I would put in an aluminum rail ;-)



We have a so-called "storm door" in front of our front door. It is a
steel frame door with a full sized glass panel. The door frame was
powder coated at the factory and though the color has faded a bit over
the years, there appear to be no areas of rust or areas where the
coating has worn off.
  #9   Report Post  
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jul 2007
Posts: 36,387
Default Door job

On Thu, 21 Apr 2016 09:49:34 -0400, Keyser Söze
wrote:

On 4/20/16 11:09 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 15:56:07 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:38:29 -0400,
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 06:58:33 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:08:42 -0400,
wrote:

I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day
for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out
into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top
coats.
Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible
job, just messy.
It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back
on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint,
using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part
paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and
it is pretty tough.

Pictures? I redid out oak front door, after looking at prices for new ones. Came out pretty good,
but there was too much weathering on the bottom for a good finish. Put a brass kick plate on it.
Looks almost like new - or at least close enough my wife's not complaining about it anymore. I
couldn't believe how much new doors cost.

This is a metal door.I got it when my wife was building houses and we
got it for about 40% of list from her buddy at the door company. I
don't think they are that expensive anyway, at least not compared to
the corner slider we have in the back (150 MPH wind code and impact
glass)

This is after wire brushing one side
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/door%20stripped.jpg

I knew yours was metal. The words 'bare metal' was a giveaway! . I was wondering how the 'appliance
epoxy' stuff turned out. I've got some wrought iron railings on the basement steps that are looking
more rusted than black. Always looking for some to finish them with that won't rust through in a
couple months, like RustOLeum does.


The problem with that is doing the proper prep. You want bare metal,
then a coat of primer, (maybe 2 on steel) and then your two top coats.
The prep and primer are as important as the paint.
When we were painting the ship it was a coat of zinc chromate, 2 coats
of red lead and 2 coats of paint but that was steel that would be
floating in salt water.

I would put in an aluminum rail ;-)



We have a so-called "storm door" in front of our front door. It is a
steel frame door with a full sized glass panel. The door frame was
powder coated at the factory and though the color has faded a bit over
the years, there appear to be no areas of rust or areas where the
coating has worn off.


My door wasn't rusting but the paint was chipping off, mostly from
getting dinged by stuff we were carrying in or out.
  #10   Report Post  
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Posts: 5,756
Default Door job

On Thursday, 21 April 2016 10:49:36 UTC-3, Keyser Söze wrote:
On 4/20/16 11:09 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 15:56:07 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:38:29 -0400,
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 06:58:33 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße
wrote:

On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:08:42 -0400,
wrote:

I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day
for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out
into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top
coats.
Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible
job, just messy.
It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back
on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint,
using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part
paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and
it is pretty tough.

Pictures? I redid out oak front door, after looking at prices for new ones. Came out pretty good,
but there was too much weathering on the bottom for a good finish. Put a brass kick plate on it.
Looks almost like new - or at least close enough my wife's not complaining about it anymore. I
couldn't believe how much new doors cost.

This is a metal door.I got it when my wife was building houses and we
got it for about 40% of list from her buddy at the door company. I
don't think they are that expensive anyway, at least not compared to
the corner slider we have in the back (150 MPH wind code and impact
glass)

This is after wire brushing one side
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/door%20stripped.jpg

I knew yours was metal. The words 'bare metal' was a giveaway! . I was wondering how the 'appliance
epoxy' stuff turned out. I've got some wrought iron railings on the basement steps that are looking
more rusted than black. Always looking for some to finish them with that won't rust through in a
couple months, like RustOLeum does.


The problem with that is doing the proper prep. You want bare metal,
then a coat of primer, (maybe 2 on steel) and then your two top coats.
The prep and primer are as important as the paint.
When we were painting the ship it was a coat of zinc chromate, 2 coats
of red lead and 2 coats of paint but that was steel that would be
floating in salt water.

I would put in an aluminum rail ;-)



We have a so-called "storm door" in front of our front door. It is a
steel frame door with a full sized glass panel. The door frame was
powder coated at the factory and though the color has faded a bit over
the years, there appear to be no areas of rust or areas where the
coating has worn off.


We call them aluminum doors because of the material in the frame. I have one front and back.
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