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Door job
I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day
for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top coats. Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible job, just messy. It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint, using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and it is pretty tough. |
Door job
|
Door job
On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:38:29 -0400, wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 06:58:33 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße wrote: On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:08:42 -0400, wrote: I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top coats. Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible job, just messy. It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint, using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and it is pretty tough. Pictures? I redid out oak front door, after looking at prices for new ones. Came out pretty good, but there was too much weathering on the bottom for a good finish. Put a brass kick plate on it. Looks almost like new - or at least close enough my wife's not complaining about it anymore. I couldn't believe how much new doors cost. This is a metal door.I got it when my wife was building houses and we got it for about 40% of list from her buddy at the door company. I don't think they are that expensive anyway, at least not compared to the corner slider we have in the back (150 MPH wind code and impact glass) This is after wire brushing one side http://gfretwell.com/ftp/door%20stripped.jpg I knew yours was metal. The words 'bare metal' was a giveaway! . I was wondering how the 'appliance epoxy' stuff turned out. I've got some wrought iron railings on the basement steps that are looking more rusted than black. Always looking for some to finish them with that won't rust through in a couple months, like RustOLeum does. -- Ban liars, tax cheats, juvenile name-callers, and narcissists...not guns! |
Door job
Keine Keyserscheiße wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:38:29 -0400, wrote: On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 06:58:33 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße wrote: On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:08:42 -0400, wrote: I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top coats. Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible job, just messy. It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint, using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and it is pretty tough. Pictures? I redid out oak front door, after looking at prices for new ones. Came out pretty good, but there was too much weathering on the bottom for a good finish. Put a brass kick plate on it. Looks almost like new - or at least close enough my wife's not complaining about it anymore. I couldn't believe how much new doors cost. This is a metal door.I got it when my wife was building houses and we got it for about 40% of list from her buddy at the door company. I don't think they are that expensive anyway, at least not compared to the corner slider we have in the back (150 MPH wind code and impact glass) This is after wire brushing one side http://gfretwell.com/ftp/door%20stripped.jpg I knew yours was metal. The words 'bare metal' was a giveaway! . I was wondering how the 'appliance epoxy' stuff turned out. I've got some wrought iron railings on the basement steps that are looking more rusted than black. Always looking for some to finish them with that won't rust through in a couple months, like RustOLeum does. -- Ban liars, tax cheats, juvenile name-callers, and narcissists...not guns! I hire my door redone every couple years. Is fairly reasonable, and they were the ones who originally did the door coating / staining. But is a very nice natural cherry double door. |
Door job
On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 15:56:07 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße
wrote: On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:38:29 -0400, wrote: On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 06:58:33 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße wrote: On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:08:42 -0400, wrote: I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top coats. Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible job, just messy. It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint, using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and it is pretty tough. Pictures? I redid out oak front door, after looking at prices for new ones. Came out pretty good, but there was too much weathering on the bottom for a good finish. Put a brass kick plate on it. Looks almost like new - or at least close enough my wife's not complaining about it anymore. I couldn't believe how much new doors cost. This is a metal door.I got it when my wife was building houses and we got it for about 40% of list from her buddy at the door company. I don't think they are that expensive anyway, at least not compared to the corner slider we have in the back (150 MPH wind code and impact glass) This is after wire brushing one side http://gfretwell.com/ftp/door%20stripped.jpg I knew yours was metal. The words 'bare metal' was a giveaway! . I was wondering how the 'appliance epoxy' stuff turned out. I've got some wrought iron railings on the basement steps that are looking more rusted than black. Always looking for some to finish them with that won't rust through in a couple months, like RustOLeum does. The problem with that is doing the proper prep. You want bare metal, then a coat of primer, (maybe 2 on steel) and then your two top coats. The prep and primer are as important as the paint. When we were painting the ship it was a coat of zinc chromate, 2 coats of red lead and 2 coats of paint but that was steel that would be floating in salt water. I would put in an aluminum rail ;-) |
Door job
On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 23:09:39 -0400, wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 15:56:07 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße wrote: On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:38:29 -0400, wrote: On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 06:58:33 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße wrote: On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:08:42 -0400, wrote: I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top coats. Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible job, just messy. It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint, using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and it is pretty tough. Pictures? I redid out oak front door, after looking at prices for new ones. Came out pretty good, but there was too much weathering on the bottom for a good finish. Put a brass kick plate on it. Looks almost like new - or at least close enough my wife's not complaining about it anymore. I couldn't believe how much new doors cost. This is a metal door.I got it when my wife was building houses and we got it for about 40% of list from her buddy at the door company. I don't think they are that expensive anyway, at least not compared to the corner slider we have in the back (150 MPH wind code and impact glass) This is after wire brushing one side http://gfretwell.com/ftp/door%20stripped.jpg I knew yours was metal. The words 'bare metal' was a giveaway! . I was wondering how the 'appliance epoxy' stuff turned out. I've got some wrought iron railings on the basement steps that are looking more rusted than black. Always looking for some to finish them with that won't rust through in a couple months, like RustOLeum does. The problem with that is doing the proper prep. You want bare metal, then a coat of primer, (maybe 2 on steel) and then your two top coats. The prep and primer are as important as the paint. When we were painting the ship it was a coat of zinc chromate, 2 coats of red lead and 2 coats of paint but that was steel that would be floating in salt water. I would put in an aluminum rail ;-) Good idea. -- Ban liars, tax cheats, juvenile name-callers, and narcissists...not guns! |
Door job
On 4/20/16 11:09 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 15:56:07 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße wrote: On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:38:29 -0400, wrote: On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 06:58:33 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße wrote: On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:08:42 -0400, wrote: I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top coats. Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible job, just messy. It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint, using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and it is pretty tough. Pictures? I redid out oak front door, after looking at prices for new ones. Came out pretty good, but there was too much weathering on the bottom for a good finish. Put a brass kick plate on it. Looks almost like new - or at least close enough my wife's not complaining about it anymore. I couldn't believe how much new doors cost. This is a metal door.I got it when my wife was building houses and we got it for about 40% of list from her buddy at the door company. I don't think they are that expensive anyway, at least not compared to the corner slider we have in the back (150 MPH wind code and impact glass) This is after wire brushing one side http://gfretwell.com/ftp/door%20stripped.jpg I knew yours was metal. The words 'bare metal' was a giveaway! . I was wondering how the 'appliance epoxy' stuff turned out. I've got some wrought iron railings on the basement steps that are looking more rusted than black. Always looking for some to finish them with that won't rust through in a couple months, like RustOLeum does. The problem with that is doing the proper prep. You want bare metal, then a coat of primer, (maybe 2 on steel) and then your two top coats. The prep and primer are as important as the paint. When we were painting the ship it was a coat of zinc chromate, 2 coats of red lead and 2 coats of paint but that was steel that would be floating in salt water. I would put in an aluminum rail ;-) We have a so-called "storm door" in front of our front door. It is a steel frame door with a full sized glass panel. The door frame was powder coated at the factory and though the color has faded a bit over the years, there appear to be no areas of rust or areas where the coating has worn off. |
Door job
On Thu, 21 Apr 2016 09:49:34 -0400, Keyser Söze
wrote: On 4/20/16 11:09 PM, wrote: On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 15:56:07 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße wrote: On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:38:29 -0400, wrote: On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 06:58:33 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße wrote: On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:08:42 -0400, wrote: I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top coats. Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible job, just messy. It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint, using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and it is pretty tough. Pictures? I redid out oak front door, after looking at prices for new ones. Came out pretty good, but there was too much weathering on the bottom for a good finish. Put a brass kick plate on it. Looks almost like new - or at least close enough my wife's not complaining about it anymore. I couldn't believe how much new doors cost. This is a metal door.I got it when my wife was building houses and we got it for about 40% of list from her buddy at the door company. I don't think they are that expensive anyway, at least not compared to the corner slider we have in the back (150 MPH wind code and impact glass) This is after wire brushing one side http://gfretwell.com/ftp/door%20stripped.jpg I knew yours was metal. The words 'bare metal' was a giveaway! . I was wondering how the 'appliance epoxy' stuff turned out. I've got some wrought iron railings on the basement steps that are looking more rusted than black. Always looking for some to finish them with that won't rust through in a couple months, like RustOLeum does. The problem with that is doing the proper prep. You want bare metal, then a coat of primer, (maybe 2 on steel) and then your two top coats. The prep and primer are as important as the paint. When we were painting the ship it was a coat of zinc chromate, 2 coats of red lead and 2 coats of paint but that was steel that would be floating in salt water. I would put in an aluminum rail ;-) We have a so-called "storm door" in front of our front door. It is a steel frame door with a full sized glass panel. The door frame was powder coated at the factory and though the color has faded a bit over the years, there appear to be no areas of rust or areas where the coating has worn off. My door wasn't rusting but the paint was chipping off, mostly from getting dinged by stuff we were carrying in or out. |
Door job
On Thursday, 21 April 2016 10:49:36 UTC-3, Keyser Söze wrote:
On 4/20/16 11:09 PM, wrote: On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 15:56:07 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße wrote: On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 10:38:29 -0400, wrote: On Wed, 20 Apr 2016 06:58:33 -0400, Keine Keyserscheiße wrote: On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 20:08:42 -0400, wrote: I painted my front door today. I figured this might be the last day for a while that I could have the A/C off. I had to take the door out into the driveway, strip it down top bare metal, prime and a few top coats. Using a cup brush on my big grinder made stripping it not a horrible job, just messy. It came out pretty good. I just got it hung and put the hardware back on. I shot it with rattle cans, 2 cans of primer and 4 cans of paint, using "appliance epoxy". I am not sure how they can call a one part paint epoxy but it is what it is. I have used it on other things and it is pretty tough. Pictures? I redid out oak front door, after looking at prices for new ones. Came out pretty good, but there was too much weathering on the bottom for a good finish. Put a brass kick plate on it. Looks almost like new - or at least close enough my wife's not complaining about it anymore. I couldn't believe how much new doors cost. This is a metal door.I got it when my wife was building houses and we got it for about 40% of list from her buddy at the door company. I don't think they are that expensive anyway, at least not compared to the corner slider we have in the back (150 MPH wind code and impact glass) This is after wire brushing one side http://gfretwell.com/ftp/door%20stripped.jpg I knew yours was metal. The words 'bare metal' was a giveaway! . I was wondering how the 'appliance epoxy' stuff turned out. I've got some wrought iron railings on the basement steps that are looking more rusted than black. Always looking for some to finish them with that won't rust through in a couple months, like RustOLeum does. The problem with that is doing the proper prep. You want bare metal, then a coat of primer, (maybe 2 on steel) and then your two top coats. The prep and primer are as important as the paint. When we were painting the ship it was a coat of zinc chromate, 2 coats of red lead and 2 coats of paint but that was steel that would be floating in salt water. I would put in an aluminum rail ;-) We have a so-called "storm door" in front of our front door. It is a steel frame door with a full sized glass panel. The door frame was powder coated at the factory and though the color has faded a bit over the years, there appear to be no areas of rust or areas where the coating has worn off. We call them aluminum doors because of the material in the frame. I have one front and back. |
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