Del Cecchi wrote:

And I don't care if you swap the bilge water in mid ocean or
5 miles off the beach.

It is obvious you don't really care and can't be bothered to research
the efforts underway to reduce the problem. Rather than waste my time
arguing with you I will let your statement speak for itself, it clearly
shows the level of your understanding.

If you feel the need to lash out in a fit of ignorant rage go down to
the docks and scream at the nearest ship.

Rick

"Rick" wrote in message
k.net...
Del Cecchi wrote:

And I don't care if you swap the bilge water in mid ocean or
5 miles off the beach.

It is obvious you don't really care and can't be bothered to research
the efforts underway to reduce the problem. Rather than waste my time
arguing with you I will let your statement speak for itself, it clearly
shows the level of your understanding.

If you feel the need to lash out in a fit of ignorant rage go down to
the docks and scream at the nearest ship.

Rick

Oh you are so noble. Sorry to disturb your existence with my little list of
exotic invaders brought to the great lakes by pristine, environmentally
concerned international shipping industry.

I bet they are taking these actions to clean their ballast out of sheer
altruistic motives.

del

I used a water switch from a washing machine. I don't remember the size of the
PVC cap but it was used by a lot of the local shrimpers in their old wooden
boats ( read leak a lot ).

The switch is usually in the control top part. They recommended using a
smaller longer hose and mounted the switch high on the bulkhead.

Mine worked for a little over 5 years with out problems. ( Sold the boat ).

It would take a little experimenting but easy engulf to find the cap size.
They heater a brass hose barb and just screwed it in to the hole, I drilled &
taped it. It isn’t boat pretty but very useful.

For the delay the Radio Shack idea seems the best.

Mike.
*****************

However I am sick of replacing bilge pump switches. ( I have a
shed full of floats!)

I thought to seal a mercury switch and put it on the float when
the float goes up the pump comes on (through a good relay)

However the switch comes on the pump runs for a very short time
and just clicks on and off driving the relay crazy.
I need to have a delay that will keep the relay pulled in say
5 to 10 seconds before dropping out and resetting.
Anyone have an idea or circuit that will do this for me.
Thanks
Oliver Fleming

Groco makes an air activated switch like this for boats. I have one in mine
and love it. The only thing sticking down into the bilge is a little bell
shaped upside down "cup" with the hose leading up to the switch, a couple of
feet above. When the water rises, the pressure inside the switch triggers
the bilge pump.

"MIDEMETZ" wrote in message
...
I used a water switch from a washing machine. I don't remember the size
of the
PVC cap but it was used by a lot of the local shrimpers in their old
wooden
boats ( read leak a lot ).

The switch is usually in the control top part. They recommended using a
smaller longer hose and mounted the switch high on the bulkhead.

Mine worked for a little over 5 years with out problems. ( Sold the
boat ).

It would take a little experimenting but easy engulf to find the cap size.
They heater a brass hose barb and just screwed it in to the hole, I
drilled &
taped it. It isn't boat pretty but very useful.

For the delay the Radio Shack idea seems the best.

Mike.
*****************

However I am sick of replacing bilge pump switches. ( I have a
shed full of floats!)

I thought to seal a mercury switch and put it on the float when
the float goes up the pump comes on (through a good relay)

However the switch comes on the pump runs for a very short time
and just clicks on and off driving the relay crazy.
I need to have a delay that will keep the relay pulled in say
5 to 10 seconds before dropping out and resetting.
Anyone have an idea or circuit that will do this for me.
Thanks
Oliver Fleming

We recently installed a "automatic" pump in the forward bilge on one of
the charter boats. The way I understand it, the pump spins its impeller
and if it detects water, it keeps pumping. No external switch needed.

Have a look at the link below.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...productId=2576

Capt. Frank

Keith wrote:

Groco makes an air activated switch like this for boats. I have one in mine
and love it. The only thing sticking down into the bilge is a little bell
shaped upside down "cup" with the hose leading up to the switch, a couple of
feet above. When the water rises, the pressure inside the switch triggers
the bilge pump.

"MIDEMETZ" wrote in message
...

I used a water switch from a washing machine. I don't remember the size

of the

PVC cap but it was used by a lot of the local shrimpers in their old

wooden

boats ( read leak a lot ).

The switch is usually in the control top part. They recommended using a
smaller longer hose and mounted the switch high on the bulkhead.

Mine worked for a little over 5 years with out problems. ( Sold the

boat ).

It would take a little experimenting but easy engulf to find the cap size.
They heater a brass hose barb and just screwed it in to the hole, I

drilled &

taped it. It isn't boat pretty but very useful.

For the delay the Radio Shack idea seems the best.

Mike.
*****************

However I am sick of replacing bilge pump switches. ( I have a
shed full of floats!)

I thought to seal a mercury switch and put it on the float when
the float goes up the pump comes on (through a good relay)

However the switch comes on the pump runs for a very short time
and just clicks on and off driving the relay crazy.
I need to have a delay that will keep the relay pulled in say
5 to 10 seconds before dropping out and resetting.
Anyone have an idea or circuit that will do this for me.
Thanks
Oliver Fleming

"Meindert Sprang" wrote in message
...

"Vito" wrote in message
...
del cecchi wrote:

"Larry Demers" wrote
... A series cap with the diode seems like a better idea to try.


This is a DC system in the average boat. There is only one polarity
of
inductive kick. Diodes work fine. Capacitors in series with the
diode
wouldn't work at all.

That's odd considering that literally millions of DC automobile ignition
systems used a capacitor in parallel with the "points" to protect them
from the coil's inductive kick. BTW, the "kick" is damped AC.

That has a different reason. Damping a coil with a diode does the job,
since
the induction voltage is ALWAYS the opposite as the originating voltage.
But, using a diode keeps the current flowing while the magnetic field
collapses. This causes a slow collapse of the field. In a coil in the car
(is it called bobbin?) has to produce a high voltage and therefore the
field
has to collapse as fast as possible. Therefore a capacitor is used with
certain value to get the best trade-off between generated high voltage
and
RF interference surpression.

Meindert

The capacitor across the points has its voltage reset to zero when the
points close. The capacitor acts to supress arcing by slowing the rise time
of the current decrease when the points open. The resulting oscillation in
the series tuned circuit is damped by the secondary driving the spark
through the plug.

In the case of the relay coil, there is no secondary. If there were no
diode, the tuned circuit would oscillate for a long time. With the diode,
the inductive kick will be stored on the capacitor and, being unable to
discharge through the reverse biased diode, will stay there for a long time.
During that time the diode will never turn on, due to the voltage on the
capacitor.

del cecchi

Sigvaldi Eggertsson wrote:

The climate of Iceland is not much different from the UK one, maritime
temperate with mild winters and cool summers. You were probably
thinking about Greenland?

I figured it must not be terribly bad in Iceland. Otherwise they would
not be able to grow all those gorgeous women. :-)

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com


I'veheard the rule of thumb esxpressed,
"Geenland is white, but Iceland is green."