On 2/6/15 11:44 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 11:37:43 -0500, Keyser Söze
wrote:

On 2/6/15 11:33 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 10:59:29 -0500, Keyser Söze
wrote:



I was just offered a "real deal" on a new S&W 686 revolver, stainless,
4" barrel, in .357MAG/.38SPECIAL. In other words, the same caliber of
my Ruger, but with a shorter barrel.

What to do, what to do?

If it is a great deal, buy it. You have no problem selling it later
and you might even make a buck.


Probably, but I really don't want two .357 revolvers. You should buy my
Ruger and have yourself a "manly" modern old tech firearm. Hell, I'll
even toss in some ammo, shipped separately.

I have enough guns but I will give you $100 for it


For that, I'll let you sniff the cylinder.

--
Proud to be a Liberal.

On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 11:44:15 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 11:37:43 -0500, Keyser Söze
wrote:

On 2/6/15 11:33 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 10:59:29 -0500, Keyser Söze
wrote:



I was just offered a "real deal" on a new S&W 686 revolver, stainless,
4" barrel, in .357MAG/.38SPECIAL. In other words, the same caliber of
my Ruger, but with a shorter barrel.

What to do, what to do?

If it is a great deal, buy it. You have no problem selling it later
and you might even make a buck.


Probably, but I really don't want two .357 revolvers. You should buy my
Ruger and have yourself a "manly" modern old tech firearm. Hell, I'll
even toss in some ammo, shipped separately.

I have enough guns but I will give you $100 for it

===

I'll go $150.

On 2/6/15 12:04 PM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 11:44:15 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 11:37:43 -0500, Keyser Söze
wrote:

On 2/6/15 11:33 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 10:59:29 -0500, Keyser Söze
wrote:



I was just offered a "real deal" on a new S&W 686 revolver, stainless,
4" barrel, in .357MAG/.38SPECIAL. In other words, the same caliber of
my Ruger, but with a shorter barrel.

What to do, what to do?

If it is a great deal, buy it. You have no problem selling it later
and you might even make a buck.


Probably, but I really don't want two .357 revolvers. You should buy my
Ruger and have yourself a "manly" modern old tech firearm. Hell, I'll
even toss in some ammo, shipped separately.

I have enough guns but I will give you $100 for it

===

I'll go $150.


For $150, you can sniff the cylinder and the barrel.

--
Proud to be a Liberal.

On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 10:18:10 -0500, Mucho Loco
wrote:

I don't know what the jacket material is. I've seen some that say there is steel in
the bimetal jacket, which keeps it from passing the magnet test.

===

The jacket looks like copper. Both the bullet and the case are
strongly attracted to magnets.

On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 11:27:34 -0500, Keyser Söze wrote:

On 2/6/15 11:24 AM, Mucho Loco wrote:
On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 10:27:04 -0500, Keyser Söze wrote:

On 2/6/15 10:22 AM, Mucho Loco wrote:
On Thu, 05 Feb 2015 20:07:43 -0500, Someone Else wrote:

Keyser Söze wrote:
On 2/4/15 9:55 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 04 Feb 2015 19:33:28 -0500, Someone Else
wrote:

Where do you find steel bullets?

The Russians and Chinese load "bimetal" ammo that is somewhat magnetic
but it is not really "steel". I tore down a "Brown Bear" 9mm a week or
so ago and the jacket is not really that hard. I also posted a link to
a 10,000 round test where they showed that it cuts barrel life in half
(5000 rounds vs 10,000 in the .223s they tested). When they factored
in the price of a barrel against the savings on ammo, it was a wash. I
imagine the effect is less in a slower round.

If you trade in guns as fast as Harry does, I doubt he would ever
notice.



Those who are interested in the composition of bullets might find this
interesting:

http://www.uspsa.org/front-sight-mag...BiMetal-Ammo-8


It's not just the cost of the barrel, by the way. A top quality HBAR
is at least $350 and in my case, I'd also have to buy a low-pro gas
block and probably have to have the barrel dimpled to hold the gas
block set screws, since my current gas block is more properly pinned
through the bottom wall of the barrel. That's another $50. Then there
is the cost of getting a qualified gunsmith to headspace the barrel.
That's another $50 or more. By the time you've finished, you've spent
$500 for a quality replacement barrel. The steel cased ammo is a
nickel a round less than the brass ammo. I'll pass on that "savings"
in order not to have to deal with replacing a barrel long before its
time. Oh, and I can shoot the brass ammo on any range where rifles are
welcomed.


You are confusing casings and bullets.

Yup.


No, I am not. I am referring to the ferrous metal in the bullets, not
the shell casing. I wouldn't use steel shell casings in a semi auto,
either but obviously they'd present no problem in a revolver.

When you say, "The steel cased ammo is a nickel a round less than the brass ammo,"
one would think you're talking about the casing, not the bullet.

I'm finding the steel bullet ammo to cost from about 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of the
non-steel bullets.



In .223 mail order, the brass bullet and shell casing ammo runs .27
cents to .31 for "ordinary" stuff, 55 grain bullets. The steel cased,
bimetal bullet stuff is .22 a round.

I don't have any info on the stuff you shoot out of that shapely Mosin.

Again, you're confusing casings with bullets. We've not been talking casings.
--

Guns don't cause problems. The behavior
of certain gun owners causes problems.

On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 12:23:45 -0500, Wayne.B wrote:

On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 10:18:10 -0500, Mucho Loco
wrote:

I don't know what the jacket material is. I've seen some that say there is steel in
the bimetal jacket, which keeps it from passing the magnet test.

===

The jacket looks like copper. Both the bullet and the case are
strongly attracted to magnets.

That keeps it out of all the indoor ranges around here.
--

Guns don't cause problems. The behavior
of certain gun owners causes problems.

On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 13:20:54 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 12:23:45 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 10:18:10 -0500, Mucho Loco
wrote:

I don't know what the jacket material is. I've seen some that say there is steel in
the bimetal jacket, which keeps it from passing the magnet test.

===

The jacket looks like copper. Both the bullet and the case are
strongly attracted to magnets.

You can figure it out pretty fast with a pocket knife. Scrape a little
metal off the nose and see what color it is under the surface.
See if the magnet picks up the shavings.

Makes no difference. If it won't pass the magnet test, I can't shoot it at the range.
--

Guns don't cause problems. The behavior
of certain gun owners causes problems.

On 2/6/2015 12:50 PM, Mucho Loco wrote:
On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 11:27:34 -0500, Keyser Söze wrote:

On 2/6/15 11:24 AM, Mucho Loco wrote:
On Fri, 06 Feb 2015 10:27:04 -0500, Keyser Söze wrote:

On 2/6/15 10:22 AM, Mucho Loco wrote:
On Thu, 05 Feb 2015 20:07:43 -0500, Someone Else wrote:

Keyser Söze wrote:
On 2/4/15 9:55 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 04 Feb 2015 19:33:28 -0500, Someone Else
wrote:

Where do you find steel bullets?

The Russians and Chinese load "bimetal" ammo that is somewhat magnetic
but it is not really "steel". I tore down a "Brown Bear" 9mm a week or
so ago and the jacket is not really that hard. I also posted a link to
a 10,000 round test where they showed that it cuts barrel life in half
(5000 rounds vs 10,000 in the .223s they tested). When they factored
in the price of a barrel against the savings on ammo, it was a wash. I
imagine the effect is less in a slower round.

If you trade in guns as fast as Harry does, I doubt he would ever
notice.



Those who are interested in the composition of bullets might find this
interesting:

http://www.uspsa.org/front-sight-mag...BiMetal-Ammo-8


It's not just the cost of the barrel, by the way. A top quality HBAR
is at least $350 and in my case, I'd also have to buy a low-pro gas
block and probably have to have the barrel dimpled to hold the gas
block set screws, since my current gas block is more properly pinned
through the bottom wall of the barrel. That's another $50. Then there
is the cost of getting a qualified gunsmith to headspace the barrel.
That's another $50 or more. By the time you've finished, you've spent
$500 for a quality replacement barrel. The steel cased ammo is a
nickel a round less than the brass ammo. I'll pass on that "savings"
in order not to have to deal with replacing a barrel long before its
time. Oh, and I can shoot the brass ammo on any range where rifles are
welcomed.


You are confusing casings and bullets.

Yup.


No, I am not. I am referring to the ferrous metal in the bullets, not
the shell casing. I wouldn't use steel shell casings in a semi auto,
either but obviously they'd present no problem in a revolver.

When you say, "The steel cased ammo is a nickel a round less than the brass ammo,"
one would think you're talking about the casing, not the bullet.

I'm finding the steel bullet ammo to cost from about 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of the
non-steel bullets.



In .223 mail order, the brass bullet and shell casing ammo runs .27
cents to .31 for "ordinary" stuff, 55 grain bullets. The steel cased,
bimetal bullet stuff is .22 a round.

I don't have any info on the stuff you shoot out of that shapely Mosin.

Again, you're confusing casings with bullets. We've not been talking casings.

Harry didn't know he was quoting prices for casing only? Sheeesh.

--

Respectfully submitted by Justan

Laugh of the day from Krause

"I'm not to blame anymore for the atmosphere in here.
I've been "born again" as a nice guy."