On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:33:21 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:

On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations,
etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners
might be a worthwhile investment.

Loose gas cap? Auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free.

But then you've got to drive there. Not that big a deal though.

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 14:05:36 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 13:25:08 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:33:21 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:

On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations,
etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners
might be a worthwhile investment.

Loose gas cap? Auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free.

But then you've got to drive there. Not that big a deal though.

That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the
car.

In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot
colder!

The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow
plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a
trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer.

On 7/7/2014 3:27 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 14:05:36 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 13:25:08 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:33:21 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:

On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations,
etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners
might be a worthwhile investment.

Loose gas cap? Auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free.

But then you've got to drive there. Not that big a deal though.

That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the
car.

In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot
colder!

The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow
plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a
trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer.


When I worked as a PFI diagnostics guy, the very first thing I went for
was the fuse box.. Check every one, even seemingly unrelated ones. Then
go for every connection and connector in the system where the code is
and in the process, all power and grounds for the electrical system as I
go along... Usually something comes up there. It's my opinion that
(MOST!!!) "chip" or "module" failures are caused by either heat or
trauma... if it's trauma, you will *hopefully* see it and there are easy
ways to test (like hitting it with a hose, if it's heat, then you
gotta' go right back to connections and see what you missed.....

Now I must put a disclaimer on my tech posts that none of what I say is
set in stone, it's generalizations, and I may not even used the proper
tense of a word or two but if you can get the general idea, it's easy to
look beyond the spelling, grammar, and even nomenclature issues I may
have .... thanks... phew.....

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:59:47 -0400, KC wrote:

On 7/7/2014 3:27 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 14:05:36 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 13:25:08 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:33:21 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:

On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations,
etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners
might be a worthwhile investment.

Loose gas cap? Auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free.

But then you've got to drive there. Not that big a deal though.

That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the
car.

In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot
colder!

The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow
plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a
trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer.


When I worked as a PFI diagnostics guy, the very first thing I went for
was the fuse box.. Check every one, even seemingly unrelated ones. Then
go for every connection and connector in the system where the code is
and in the process, all power and grounds for the electrical system as I
go along... Usually something comes up there. It's my opinion that
(MOST!!!) "chip" or "module" failures are caused by either heat or
trauma... if it's trauma, you will *hopefully* see it and there are easy
ways to test (like hitting it with a hose, if it's heat, then you
gotta' go right back to connections and see what you missed.....

Now I must put a disclaimer on my tech posts that none of what I say is
set in stone, it's generalizations, and I may not even used the proper
tense of a word or two but if you can get the general idea, it's easy to
look beyond the spelling, grammar, and even nomenclature issues I may
have .... thanks... phew.....

I've not even started looking. First thing to be done is remove the passenger side wheel well cover.
That is a daunting task all by itself. I've found some good info on glow plug testing.

On 7/7/2014 4:51 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:27:13 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the
car.

In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot
colder!

The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow
plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a
trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer.

Since all of the glow plugs come on at the same time you could cut the
problem in half by swapping glow plug wires.
You could also check it with a meter and compare a good one to the bad
one.
I might just throw a new glow plug at it without doing any more
diagnosis. Worst case is you have a good, spare glow plug.

The code certainly gets you right down on the problem tho.

I disagree, having seen how a Mass Air Flow Sensor code can mean the
screw on the Ignition Module under the Distributor Cap was loose.. Or a
Crank Angle Sensor (or something or another) that was disrupted by a
screw holding a body part on, installed at the factory that finally wore
through a couple years later... oh, it was a rear deck lid. You may
think the code gets you there, but to me trusting FRED (****ing
ridiculous emissions device) is like a baby crying... It may be making a
lot of noise but it doesn't know if it's hungry, or just has to crap a
diaper load

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 18:39:32 -0400, KC wrote:

On 7/7/2014 4:51 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:27:13 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the
car.

In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot
colder!

The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow
plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a
trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer.

Since all of the glow plugs come on at the same time you could cut the
problem in half by swapping glow plug wires.
You could also check it with a meter and compare a good one to the bad
one.
I might just throw a new glow plug at it without doing any more
diagnosis. Worst case is you have a good, spare glow plug.

The code certainly gets you right down on the problem tho.

I disagree, having seen how a Mass Air Flow Sensor code can mean the
screw on the Ignition Module under the Distributor Cap was loose.. Or a
Crank Angle Sensor (or something or another) that was disrupted by a
screw holding a body part on, installed at the factory that finally wore
through a couple years later... oh, it was a rear deck lid. You may
think the code gets you there, but to me trusting FRED (****ing
ridiculous emissions device) is like a baby crying... It may be making a
lot of noise but it doesn't know if it's hungry, or just has to crap a
diaper load


If the code has to do with the emissions, the issues can range from too much mud in the wrong place
to several thousands of dollars. A friend went through that with his truck. Took it to different
dealers 'cause he was on a trip. Ended up costing him a lot of money. But, he probably got ripped
off by a few of those dealers also. I *really* don't trust auto dealers, especially after our local
Chevy dealer said I needed to flush my transmission. He'd obviously not read the book.

On 7/8/2014 11:58 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 18:39:32 -0400, KC wrote:

On 7/7/2014 4:51 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:27:13 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the
car.

In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot
colder!

The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow
plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a
trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer.

Since all of the glow plugs come on at the same time you could cut the
problem in half by swapping glow plug wires.
You could also check it with a meter and compare a good one to the bad
one.
I might just throw a new glow plug at it without doing any more
diagnosis. Worst case is you have a good, spare glow plug.

The code certainly gets you right down on the problem tho.

I disagree, having seen how a Mass Air Flow Sensor code can mean the
screw on the Ignition Module under the Distributor Cap was loose.. Or a
Crank Angle Sensor (or something or another) that was disrupted by a
screw holding a body part on, installed at the factory that finally wore
through a couple years later... oh, it was a rear deck lid. You may
think the code gets you there, but to me trusting FRED (****ing
ridiculous emissions device) is like a baby crying... It may be making a
lot of noise but it doesn't know if it's hungry, or just has to crap a
diaper load

Over the years, how many times has the code been right and how many
times has it been bogus?

50/50 at best...

Maybe you can get a spurious code for an unrelated problem but it is
usually fairly accurate,

I disagree completely and I worked in a dealership.. Now I don't argue
when it's one code it's usually easier but still, most of those codes
need to be followed up with a VOM and a diagnostic spreadsheet...

Again, I worked for Chevy, I read the books, and went to the schools...
soooooo, um, take it for what it's worth.
particularly if it is only throwing one code.
Noise on the bus can generate anything but that is a clue. If you are
seeing random, unrelated codes, there is a good chance none of them
are right. At that point you probably want to look at the bus with a
scope.
The reality is, if the code is bogus, the car is usually going to be
running OK. At a certain point you just have to fall back on the
skills you used to fix your 56 Chevy. If you have fuel, air,
compression and spark, the engine will fire.

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 16:51:36 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:27:13 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the
car.

In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot
colder!

The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow
plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a
trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer.

Since all of the glow plugs come on at the same time you could cut the
problem in half by swapping glow plug wires.
You could also check it with a meter and compare a good one to the bad
one.
I might just throw a new glow plug at it without doing any more
diagnosis. Worst case is you have a good, spare glow plug.

The code certainly gets you right down on the problem tho.

The meter check is the first step - after getting the damn wheel well cover off. That'll probably be
the hardest part of the job.

On Monday, June 30, 2014 1:32:09 PM UTC-4, John H. wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations,

etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners

might be a worthwhile investment.

I have an Actron that works just fine. As Greg said, they won't read the manufacturer extended codes (chassis, special controllers, etc.), but they will read the basic engine codes.

I have an indy mechanic that has the Chevy specific tool. He read the codes on the 'vette when the brake and traction control module went out. It was still under warranty, so he sent me off to the dealer and didn't charge me a dime.

The 'vette is now gone and an Audi A6 has taken it's place. It has the same issue as all new vehicles in that the reader only pulls the most basic codes. The aftermarket reader for it is a $350 software and cable package you run on a laptop. It allows you access to a ton of features and settings that only the dealer can see. Stuff like turning on the window up/down from your keyfob, internal and external lighting settings, playing DVDs on the screen while moving, etc. And many service modes, too. With the 100k mile warranty, I doubt I'll pop for it, though.

wrote:
On Monday, June 30, 2014 1:32:09 PM UTC-4, John H. wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience
with them, recommendations,

etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems
like one of those scanners

might be a worthwhile investment.

I have an Actron that works just fine. As Greg said, they won't read the
manufacturer extended codes (chassis, special controllers, etc.), but
they will read the basic engine codes.

I have an indy mechanic that has the Chevy specific tool. He read the
codes on the 'vette when the brake and traction control module went out.
It was still under warranty, so he sent me off to the dealer and didn't charge me a dime.

The 'vette is now gone and an Audi A6 has taken it's place. It has the
same issue as all new vehicles in that the reader only pulls the most
basic codes. The aftermarket reader for it is a $350 software and cable
package you run on a laptop. It allows you access to a ton of features
and settings that only the dealer can see. Stuff like turning on the
window up/down from your keyfob, internal and external lighting settings,
playing DVDs on the screen while moving, etc. And many service modes,
too. With the 100k mile warranty, I doubt I'll pop for it, though.
I have an Innova 3030. Reads and resets codes and has a connection for a
PC and a CD. Never used the connection. Works great. I bought it when
the truck went into limp mode, and the dealer could not find a problem.
Reset code and 40 miles later in Sacramento, limp mode again. Bought the
reader and went to McD's for free WIFI and found out there was a bad
connector on number 7 injector. Even a fix for the bad connection. Well
worth owning one.