On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 13:39:35 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 13:32:09 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations,
etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners
might be a worthwhile investment.
I bought a blue tooth scanner that talks to a laptop and it seems to
work OK

http://www.meritline.com/bluetooth-auto-scanner-code-reader-interface-tool---p-113119.aspx?strcoup=MLCY30JN&dealid=68&sectionid=N 46&utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_camp aign=newsletter140630&hq_e=el&hq_m=2906862&hq_l=14 1&hq_v=d6448e7652

$14.95 w/Code: MLCY30JN today

This is just a code scanner, you can't do all of the dealer functions.
That one is big bucks.

I have the Yamaha Ydis system for my outboard that is what the dealer
has.

Can't do bluetooth. i'm thinking of this one: http://tinyurl.com/qzepjwc.
But that's only because the guy at Advance Auto used it.

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 11:01:57 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote:

My #2 son gave me one a couple Christmas ago.
I've had no use for it driving reliable new Toyotas, but he used it a number of times on his Dodge Charger and one of his buddies vehicles.
Believe he has to take the error code from the reader and use his smartphone to access a Site where he enters the code and gets the details.

The smaller, cheaper ones provide nothing but the code. The one I'm considering provides the code
and the meaning. The next one up, in the $200-250 range provides all that and adds possible fixes.
They will work on Toyotas also. I'd thought my truck was quite reliable, but once your Toyota is out
of warranty, it's nice to have a good idea of what a problem might be before getting ripped off.

On 6/30/14, 6:49 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 16:14:36 -0400, F*O*A*D wrote:


That was the original GM system not the OBDII

I know I need a scanner for my Ford truck and my Honda. There is no
jumper trick that I can find documented anywhere.
I have not really played with the bluetooh dongle much. The last time
I had a light, I went to Autozone for a free scan.


You need a scanner? Are you having a lot of car problems?

Not really. I popped a code a couple years ago and I figured out there
was no "jumper" option to flash it out.

I went to the auto parts store and they scanned the code, sold me the
part for $20 or so and I was good to go.

I just bought this dongle because it was cheap and if the car would
not start, it was better than having to tow it somewhere.
In real life, cars and outboards are becoming so reliable that I have
a hard time remembering when the last time I actually had to fix
something. Even scheduled maintenance is minimal these days.


My daily driver Toyota 4Runner just passed 200,000 miles without
anything but routine maintenance...I replaced the original battery last
week. replaced brake pads, oil and filters, of course, and a timing
belt. That's it.

--
If right-wing assholes could fly,
rec.boats would be an airport!

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:33:21 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:

On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations,
etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners
might be a worthwhile investment.

Loose gas cap? Auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free.

But then you've got to drive there. Not that big a deal though.

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 20:01:29 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 19:15:38 -0400, F*O*A*D wrote:

On 6/30/14, 6:49 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 16:14:36 -0400, F*O*A*D wrote:


That was the original GM system not the OBDII

I know I need a scanner for my Ford truck and my Honda. There is no
jumper trick that I can find documented anywhere.
I have not really played with the bluetooh dongle much. The last time
I had a light, I went to Autozone for a free scan.


You need a scanner? Are you having a lot of car problems?

Not really. I popped a code a couple years ago and I figured out there
was no "jumper" option to flash it out.

I went to the auto parts store and they scanned the code, sold me the
part for $20 or so and I was good to go.

I just bought this dongle because it was cheap and if the car would
not start, it was better than having to tow it somewhere.
In real life, cars and outboards are becoming so reliable that I have
a hard time remembering when the last time I actually had to fix
something. Even scheduled maintenance is minimal these days.


My daily driver Toyota 4Runner just passed 200,000 miles without
anything but routine maintenance...I replaced the original battery last
week. replaced brake pads, oil and filters, of course, and a timing
belt. That's it.

That is actually pretty typical..
The sensor that threw the code in my truck was probably just dirty
according to the guy at the store but I got a new one because I was
there. He said it is common if you don't drive much. I may not do 1000
miles a year on that truck.

Harry will let us know when he hits 500,000 with no problems.

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:41:52 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:

On 6/30/2014 2:44 PM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 6/30/14, 2:01 PM, True North wrote:
My #2 son gave me one a couple Christmas ago.
I've had no use for it driving reliable new Toyotas, but he used it a
number of times on his Dodge Charger and one of his buddies vehicles.
Believe he has to take the error code from the reader and use his
smartphone to access a Site where he enters the code and gets the
details.



Herring needs to be scanned for Alzheimers...

Count on Krause to be a ****head.

His MO.

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 14:05:36 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 13:25:08 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:33:21 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:

On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations,
etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners
might be a worthwhile investment.

Loose gas cap? Auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free.

But then you've got to drive there. Not that big a deal though.

That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the
car.

In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot
colder!

The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow
plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a
trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer.

On 7/7/2014 3:27 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 14:05:36 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 13:25:08 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:33:21 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:

On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations,
etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners
might be a worthwhile investment.

Loose gas cap? Auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free.

But then you've got to drive there. Not that big a deal though.

That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the
car.

In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot
colder!

The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow
plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a
trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer.


When I worked as a PFI diagnostics guy, the very first thing I went for
was the fuse box.. Check every one, even seemingly unrelated ones. Then
go for every connection and connector in the system where the code is
and in the process, all power and grounds for the electrical system as I
go along... Usually something comes up there. It's my opinion that
(MOST!!!) "chip" or "module" failures are caused by either heat or
trauma... if it's trauma, you will *hopefully* see it and there are easy
ways to test (like hitting it with a hose, if it's heat, then you
gotta' go right back to connections and see what you missed.....

Now I must put a disclaimer on my tech posts that none of what I say is
set in stone, it's generalizations, and I may not even used the proper
tense of a word or two but if you can get the general idea, it's easy to
look beyond the spelling, grammar, and even nomenclature issues I may
have .... thanks... phew.....

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:59:47 -0400, KC wrote:

On 7/7/2014 3:27 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 14:05:36 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 13:25:08 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:33:21 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:

On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations,
etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners
might be a worthwhile investment.

Loose gas cap? Auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free.

But then you've got to drive there. Not that big a deal though.

That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the
car.

In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot
colder!

The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow
plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a
trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer.


When I worked as a PFI diagnostics guy, the very first thing I went for
was the fuse box.. Check every one, even seemingly unrelated ones. Then
go for every connection and connector in the system where the code is
and in the process, all power and grounds for the electrical system as I
go along... Usually something comes up there. It's my opinion that
(MOST!!!) "chip" or "module" failures are caused by either heat or
trauma... if it's trauma, you will *hopefully* see it and there are easy
ways to test (like hitting it with a hose, if it's heat, then you
gotta' go right back to connections and see what you missed.....

Now I must put a disclaimer on my tech posts that none of what I say is
set in stone, it's generalizations, and I may not even used the proper
tense of a word or two but if you can get the general idea, it's easy to
look beyond the spelling, grammar, and even nomenclature issues I may
have .... thanks... phew.....

I've not even started looking. First thing to be done is remove the passenger side wheel well cover.
That is a daunting task all by itself. I've found some good info on glow plug testing.

On 7/7/2014 4:02 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:59:47 -0400, KC wrote:

On 7/7/2014 3:27 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 14:05:36 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 13:25:08 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:33:21 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:

On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations,
etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners
might be a worthwhile investment.

Loose gas cap? Auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free.

But then you've got to drive there. Not that big a deal though.

That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the
car.

In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot
colder!

The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow
plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a
trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer.


When I worked as a PFI diagnostics guy, the very first thing I went for
was the fuse box.. Check every one, even seemingly unrelated ones. Then
go for every connection and connector in the system where the code is
and in the process, all power and grounds for the electrical system as I
go along... Usually something comes up there. It's my opinion that
(MOST!!!) "chip" or "module" failures are caused by either heat or
trauma... if it's trauma, you will *hopefully* see it and there are easy
ways to test (like hitting it with a hose, if it's heat, then you
gotta' go right back to connections and see what you missed.....

Now I must put a disclaimer on my tech posts that none of what I say is
set in stone, it's generalizations, and I may not even used the proper
tense of a word or two but if you can get the general idea, it's easy to
look beyond the spelling, grammar, and even nomenclature issues I may
have .... thanks... phew.....

I've not even started looking. First thing to be done is remove the passenger side wheel well cover.
That is a daunting task all by itself. I've found some good info on glow plug testing.


Yeah, any further than that with a Diesel, and I would be lost. When I
did run into a legit fuel or air delivery problem my best diagnostic
tools were a sniffer in the tail pipe to compare the O2, CO2, and
HydroCarbon levels to the firing pattern of the plugs on the
Occilliscope where I could see if individual plugs were burning lean or
rich, etc... Without a spark plug pattern, I would be lost