On 7/7/2014 4:51 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:27:13 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the
car.

In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot
colder!

The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow
plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a
trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer.

Since all of the glow plugs come on at the same time you could cut the
problem in half by swapping glow plug wires.
You could also check it with a meter and compare a good one to the bad
one.
I might just throw a new glow plug at it without doing any more
diagnosis. Worst case is you have a good, spare glow plug.

The code certainly gets you right down on the problem tho.

I disagree, having seen how a Mass Air Flow Sensor code can mean the
screw on the Ignition Module under the Distributor Cap was loose.. Or a
Crank Angle Sensor (or something or another) that was disrupted by a
screw holding a body part on, installed at the factory that finally wore
through a couple years later... oh, it was a rear deck lid. You may
think the code gets you there, but to me trusting FRED (****ing
ridiculous emissions device) is like a baby crying... It may be making a
lot of noise but it doesn't know if it's hungry, or just has to crap a
diaper load

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 16:51:36 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:27:13 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the
car.

In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot
colder!

The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow
plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a
trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer.

Since all of the glow plugs come on at the same time you could cut the
problem in half by swapping glow plug wires.
You could also check it with a meter and compare a good one to the bad
one.
I might just throw a new glow plug at it without doing any more
diagnosis. Worst case is you have a good, spare glow plug.

The code certainly gets you right down on the problem tho.

The meter check is the first step - after getting the damn wheel well cover off. That'll probably be
the hardest part of the job.

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 18:39:32 -0400, KC wrote:

On 7/7/2014 4:51 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:27:13 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the
car.

In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot
colder!

The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow
plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a
trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer.

Since all of the glow plugs come on at the same time you could cut the
problem in half by swapping glow plug wires.
You could also check it with a meter and compare a good one to the bad
one.
I might just throw a new glow plug at it without doing any more
diagnosis. Worst case is you have a good, spare glow plug.

The code certainly gets you right down on the problem tho.

I disagree, having seen how a Mass Air Flow Sensor code can mean the
screw on the Ignition Module under the Distributor Cap was loose.. Or a
Crank Angle Sensor (or something or another) that was disrupted by a
screw holding a body part on, installed at the factory that finally wore
through a couple years later... oh, it was a rear deck lid. You may
think the code gets you there, but to me trusting FRED (****ing
ridiculous emissions device) is like a baby crying... It may be making a
lot of noise but it doesn't know if it's hungry, or just has to crap a
diaper load


If the code has to do with the emissions, the issues can range from too much mud in the wrong place
to several thousands of dollars. A friend went through that with his truck. Took it to different
dealers 'cause he was on a trip. Ended up costing him a lot of money. But, he probably got ripped
off by a few of those dealers also. I *really* don't trust auto dealers, especially after our local
Chevy dealer said I needed to flush my transmission. He'd obviously not read the book.

On 7/8/2014 11:58 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 18:39:32 -0400, KC wrote:

On 7/7/2014 4:51 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:27:13 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the
car.

In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot
colder!

The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow
plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a
trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer.

Since all of the glow plugs come on at the same time you could cut the
problem in half by swapping glow plug wires.
You could also check it with a meter and compare a good one to the bad
one.
I might just throw a new glow plug at it without doing any more
diagnosis. Worst case is you have a good, spare glow plug.

The code certainly gets you right down on the problem tho.

I disagree, having seen how a Mass Air Flow Sensor code can mean the
screw on the Ignition Module under the Distributor Cap was loose.. Or a
Crank Angle Sensor (or something or another) that was disrupted by a
screw holding a body part on, installed at the factory that finally wore
through a couple years later... oh, it was a rear deck lid. You may
think the code gets you there, but to me trusting FRED (****ing
ridiculous emissions device) is like a baby crying... It may be making a
lot of noise but it doesn't know if it's hungry, or just has to crap a
diaper load

Over the years, how many times has the code been right and how many
times has it been bogus?

50/50 at best...

Maybe you can get a spurious code for an unrelated problem but it is
usually fairly accurate,

I disagree completely and I worked in a dealership.. Now I don't argue
when it's one code it's usually easier but still, most of those codes
need to be followed up with a VOM and a diagnostic spreadsheet...

Again, I worked for Chevy, I read the books, and went to the schools...
soooooo, um, take it for what it's worth.
particularly if it is only throwing one code.
Noise on the bus can generate anything but that is a clue. If you are
seeing random, unrelated codes, there is a good chance none of them
are right. At that point you probably want to look at the bus with a
scope.
The reality is, if the code is bogus, the car is usually going to be
running OK. At a certain point you just have to fall back on the
skills you used to fix your 56 Chevy. If you have fuel, air,
compression and spark, the engine will fire.

F*O*A*D wrote:
On 6/30/14, 4:05 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 14:52:55 -0400, KC wrote:

On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience
with them, recommendations,
etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it
seems like one of those scanners
might be a worthwhile investment.


Don't know if you can do it on yours, but my old Chevys would let you
jump the prongs on the connector under the dash (they acutally made a
tool for it that went on your keyring) and you would see the code
flashed on the check engine light.

That was the original GM system not the OBDII

I know I need a scanner for my Ford truck and my Honda. There is no
jumper trick that I can find documented anywhere.
I have not really played with the bluetooh dongle much. The last time
I had a light, I went to Autozone for a free scan.


You need a scanner? Are you having a lot of car problems?


You never have car problems, except maybe for burning and abandoning your
POS's.

True North wrote:
My #2 son gave me one a couple Christmas ago.
I've had no use for it driving reliable new Toyotas, but he used it a
number of times on his Dodge Charger and one of his buddies vehicles.
Believe he has to take the error code from the reader and use his
smartphone to access a Site where he enters the code and gets the details.

You get check engine lights on Toyota's also.

wrote:
On Monday, June 30, 2014 1:32:09 PM UTC-4, John H. wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience
with them, recommendations,

etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems
like one of those scanners

might be a worthwhile investment.

I have an Actron that works just fine. As Greg said, they won't read the
manufacturer extended codes (chassis, special controllers, etc.), but
they will read the basic engine codes.

I have an indy mechanic that has the Chevy specific tool. He read the
codes on the 'vette when the brake and traction control module went out.
It was still under warranty, so he sent me off to the dealer and didn't charge me a dime.

The 'vette is now gone and an Audi A6 has taken it's place. It has the
same issue as all new vehicles in that the reader only pulls the most
basic codes. The aftermarket reader for it is a $350 software and cable
package you run on a laptop. It allows you access to a ton of features
and settings that only the dealer can see. Stuff like turning on the
window up/down from your keyfob, internal and external lighting settings,
playing DVDs on the screen while moving, etc. And many service modes,
too. With the 100k mile warranty, I doubt I'll pop for it, though.
I have an Innova 3030. Reads and resets codes and has a connection for a
PC and a CD. Never used the connection. Works great. I bought it when
the truck went into limp mode, and the dealer could not find a problem.
Reset code and 40 miles later in Sacramento, limp mode again. Bought the
reader and went to McD's for free WIFI and found out there was a bad
connector on number 7 injector. Even a fix for the bad connection. Well
worth owning one.

I haven't seen one in four years with the RAV4 and 15.5 months with the Highlander.

On 7/8/2014 7:57 PM, BAR wrote:
In article ,
says...

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 18:45:56 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote:

I *really* don't trust auto dealers, especially after our local
Chevy dealer said I needed to flush my transmission. He'd obviously not read the book.

Dealer service departments have become a profit center for dealers,
perhaps a bigger part of their bottom line than the sale of cars.
The service writers are on commission and the mechanics are rated on
production. They have a great incentive to sell services that return a
lot of profit. (fast and expensive)

I imagine the dealer has one of those transmission flush machines and
just like a hospital with an MRI machine, it is not making money if
they are not using it so everyone "needs" it..

That's why we go to George's Auto Hospital.


The thing about small places is they have to actually find out what's
wrong, unlike a dealer who just sends some trained monkey to the parts
dept and changes stuff till it fixes it

True North wrote:
I haven't seen one in four years with the RAV4 and 15.5 months with the Highlander.

And you may both be lucky, and not put a lot of miles on. And you are
paying premium for that Toyota. My wife's Venza has a broken tail light
lens. $201 for the tail light housing, as the lens is not separate and
probably 2 hours to change! Has a small hole in the lens, probably a
thrown rock. Or grocery cart. How can some car company justify having to
change the whole assembly for a tail light broken lens? Tail lights have
always gotten broken.