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Galvanic corrosion
My new boat started to develop blisters under the gunnel paint where the cover snaps are attached.
After the 2nd season of use, I brought this to the attention of the dealer and Legend boats up in Ontario. This was last October and the manufacturer still hasn't come up with a plan to remedy the problem. I did the usual Google research and sent the links to the service manager at my dealer. Guy at Legend said he didn't want to talk directly with me and problem should be handled through dealer. They also wanted me to tow the boat back to the dealer ( 180 miles round trip ) so techs could check for stray current, which I did while down anyway for winter servicing. No stray current from my motor. They also suggested that it could be a stray current problem at the docks I frequent or stray current at local, marinas. I explained that most of the small boat launches I use have no electrical services and anyway, I'm only there long enough to get my trailer and retrieve the boat. Anyway I just contacted the General Manager of the dealership (member of family who owns the business) who acted as my salesman two years ago when I showed up while the sales staff were away at a boat show. He says he will look into problem. From what I read, we have to remove the snaps that screw directly into the painted aluminum gunnel, sand, prime and paint affected areas. Then we have to find a suitable gasket or washer to isolate the snap and the aluminum and even coat the shafts of the attaching screw with liquid electrical tape or silicone to isolate them as possible. My question is, can those self tapping screws be backed out of the aluminum and then be re-installed? I broke two bits trying with a hand screwdriver last fall, so I google up higher rated impact type bits like the Makita Gold That should hold up in my corded drill/driver. Anyone ever attempt this. |
Galvanic corrosion
On 5/15/2014 8:00 AM, True North wrote:
My new boat started to develop blisters under the gunnel paint where the cover snaps are attached. After the 2nd season of use, I brought this to the attention of the dealer and Legend boats up in Ontario. This was last October and the manufacturer still hasn't come up with a plan to remedy the problem. I did the usual Google research and sent the links to the service manager at my dealer. Guy at Legend said he didn't want to talk directly with me and problem should be handled through dealer. They also wanted me to tow the boat back to the dealer ( 180 miles round trip ) so techs could check for stray current, which I did while down anyway for winter servicing. No stray current from my motor. They also suggested that it could be a stray current problem at the docks I frequent or stray current at local, marinas. I explained that most of the small boat launches I use have no electrical services and anyway, I'm only there long enough to get my trailer and retrieve the boat. Anyway I just contacted the General Manager of the dealership (member of family who owns the business) who acted as my salesman two years ago when I showed up while the sales staff were away at a boat show. He says he will look into problem. From what I read, we have to remove the snaps that screw directly into the painted aluminum gunnel, sand, prime and paint affected areas. Then we have to find a suitable gasket or washer to isolate the snap and the aluminum and even coat the shafts of the attaching screw with liquid electrical tape or silicone to isolate them as possible. My question is, can those self tapping screws be backed out of the aluminum and then be re-installed? I broke two bits trying with a hand screwdriver last fall, so I google up higher rated impact type bits like the Makita Gold That should hold up in my corded drill/driver. Anyone ever attempt this. Aluminum and stainless steel fasteners don't play well together, usually. I have seen situations where a white substance builds up between the aluminum and stainless fastener, making it difficult or impossible to remove the fastener. There are different grades of aluminum as well as stainless. The paint adds another dimention to the problem. Your builder hit upon the wrong combination. He should have known better. Is your boat certified for use in salt water? I would go to a local aluminum salt water boat dealer and seek his help. |
Galvanic corrosion
On Thu, 15 May 2014 05:00:06 -0700 (PDT), True North
wrote: My new boat started to develop blisters under the gunnel paint where the cover snaps are attached. After the 2nd season of use, I brought this to the attention of the dealer and Legend boats up in Ontario. This was last October and the manufacturer still hasn't come up with a plan to remedy the problem. I did the usual Google research and sent the links to the service manager at my dealer. Guy at Legend said he didn't want to talk directly with me and problem should be handled through dealer. They also wanted me to tow the boat back to the dealer ( 180 miles round trip ) so techs could check for stray current, which I did while down anyway for winter servicing. No stray current from my motor. They also suggested that it could be a stray current problem at the docks I frequent or stray current at local, marinas. I explained that most of the small boat launches I use have no electrical services and anyway, I'm only there long enough to get my trailer and retrieve the boat. Anyway I just contacted the General Manager of the dealership (member of family who owns the business) who acted as my salesman two years ago when I showed up while the sales staff were away at a boat show. He says he will look into problem. From what I read, we have to remove the snaps that screw directly into the painted aluminum gunnel, sand, prime and paint affected areas. Then we have to find a suitable gasket or washer to isolate the snap and the aluminum and even coat the shafts of the attaching screw with liquid electrical tape or silicone to isolate them as possible. My question is, can those self tapping screws be backed out of the aluminum and then be re-installed? I broke two bits trying with a hand screwdriver last fall, so I google up higher rated impact type bits like the Makita Gold That should hold up in my corded drill/driver. Anyone ever attempt this. === This is a big problem with aluminum sailboat masts and booms where stainless steel screws and machine screws are used to attach fittings. I once asked a professional rigger what he recommended and he said that he always beds the hardware and threads with silicone sealant before fastening. The silicone creates a thin insulating barrier between the two metals and prevents corrosion. I've removd hardware installed that way more than 5 years ago with no problems. Removing old fasteners that have already corroded is difficult. Frequently you have to break them off and punch them out. You can build up the old hole with JB Weld or similar and then retap the threads if the fasteners are not under a lot of stress. |
Galvanic corrosion
On Thursday, May 15, 2014 11:45:06 AM UTC-4, Wayne. B wrote:
On Thu, 15 May 2014 05:00:06 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote: My new boat started to develop blisters under the gunnel paint where the cover snaps are attached. After the 2nd season of use, I brought this to the attention of the dealer and Legend boats up in Ontario. This was last October and the manufacturer still hasn't come up with a plan to remedy the problem. I did the usual Google research and sent the links to the service manager at my dealer. Guy at Legend said he didn't want to talk directly with me and problem should be handled through dealer. They also wanted me to tow the boat back to the dealer ( 180 miles round trip ) so techs could check for stray current, which I did while down anyway for winter servicing. No stray current from my motor. They also suggested that it could be a stray current problem at the docks I frequent or stray current at local, marinas. I explained that most of the small boat launches I use have no electrical services and anyway, I'm only there long enough to get my trailer and retrieve the boat. Anyway I just contacted the General Manager of the dealership (member of family who owns the business) who acted as my salesman two years ago when I showed up while the sales staff were away at a boat show. He says he will look into problem. From what I read, we have to remove the snaps that screw directly into the painted aluminum gunnel, sand, prime and paint affected areas. Then we have to find a suitable gasket or washer to isolate the snap and the aluminum and even coat the shafts of the attaching screw with liquid electrical tape or silicone to isolate them as possible. My question is, can those self tapping screws be backed out of the aluminum and then be re-installed? I broke two bits trying with a hand screwdriver last fall, so I google up higher rated impact type bits like the Makita Gold That should hold up in my corded drill/driver. Anyone ever attempt this. === This is a big problem with aluminum sailboat masts and booms where stainless steel screws and machine screws are used to attach fittings. I once asked a professional rigger what he recommended and he said that he always beds the hardware and threads with silicone sealant before fastening. The silicone creates a thin insulating barrier between the two metals and prevents corrosion. I've removd hardware installed that way more than 5 years ago with no problems. I'm doubtful that anything actually prevents the two metals from connecting.. I suggest you try a simple ohm meter test to prove that to yourself. Rather the silicon is reducing the moisture reaching the joint. If you can keep the water out you will greatly reduce the corrosion. Personally I use teflon thread sealer on everything threaded. It too will help keep the water out as well as lubricate the threads. Stainless is the best hardware since aluminum fasteners would generally be too weak. |
Galvanic corrosion
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Galvanic corrosion
On Thursday, May 15, 2014 8:00:06 AM UTC-4, True North wrote:
My new boat started to develop blisters under the gunnel paint where the cover snaps are attached. After the 2nd season of use, I brought this to the attention of the dealer and Legend boats up in Ontario. This was last October and the manufacturer still hasn't come up with a plan to remedy the problem. I did the usual Google research and sent the links to the service manager at my dealer. Guy at Legend said he didn't want to talk directly with me and problem should be handled through dealer. They also wanted me to tow the boat back to the dealer ( 180 miles round trip ) so techs could check for stray current, which I did while down anyway for winter servicing. No stray current from my motor. They also suggested that it could be a stray current problem at the docks I frequent or stray current at local, marinas. I explained that most of the small boat launches I use have no electrical services and anyway, I'm only there long enough to get my trailer and retrieve the boat. Anyway I just contacted the General Manager of the dealership (member of family who owns the business) who acted as my salesman two years ago when I showed up while the sales staff were away at a boat show. He says he will look into problem. From what I read, we have to remove the snaps that screw directly into the painted aluminum gunnel, sand, prime and paint affected areas. Then we have to find a suitable gasket or washer to isolate the snap and the aluminum and even coat the shafts of the attaching screw with liquid electrical tape or silicone to isolate them as possible. My question is, can those self tapping screws be backed out of the aluminum and then be re-installed? I broke two bits trying with a hand screwdriver last fall, so I google up higher rated impact type bits like the Makita Gold That should hold up in my corded drill/driver. Anyone ever attempt this. Too bad your $16,000 dollar Bass Boat is corroding. Looks real good on you. After all, you are totally ****ing stupid, and cant even back up a trailered Boat. |
Galvanic corrosion
On Thursday, May 15, 2014 5:39:57 PM UTC-4, Wayne. B wrote:
On Thu, 15 May 2014 11:59:49 -0700 (PDT), wrote: Although the exact protection mechanism may be debatable, it has been well proven that anything that prevents direct contact between dissimilar metals helps to prevent corrosion. The exact protection mechanism is not debatable. This isn't politics. It's not working by preventing contact. You can't tighten a fastener adequately and think the two metals are not in contact. The silicon and in my case the thread sealer are keeping out the moisture. It takes three things to generate galvanic voltages, two dissimilar metals and an electrolyte. Fortunately stainless steel is a poor electrode anyway. Because aluminum makes a crappy fastener. |
Galvanic corrosion
On Friday, May 16, 2014 10:30:05 AM UTC-4, wrote:
The first thing Don has to do is be sure these are really stainless and not chrome over brass. He's TOO ****ING STUPID TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE. |
Galvanic corrosion
Yesterday I was on the Legend website where they have a chat function.
I asked the rep about the snaps and she confirmed that they were indeed stainless steel. She then asked if I had any other concerns. I felt chatty so I informed her about the corrosion problem... not really expecting to much back. She went right to the warranty manager and quoted him as saying salt water corrosion was an unpredictable process and not really a warranty problem. He also stated they didn't recommend their boats be used in salt water. First I heard of this and no where have I seen this in writing nor did the dealer mention it. They did say to forward pictures of the blisters and they would consult with the dealer on what to do. Looks like I may be looking for a good Jewish lawyer. |
Galvanic corrosion
On 5/17/2014 6:33 AM, True North wrote:
Yesterday I was on the Legend website where they have a chat function. I asked the rep about the snaps and she confirmed that they were indeed stainless steel. She then asked if I had any other concerns. I felt chatty so I informed her about the corrosion problem... not really expecting to much back. She went right to the warranty manager and quoted him as saying salt water corrosion was an unpredictable process and not really a warranty problem. He also stated they didn't recommend their boats be used in salt water. First I heard of this and no where have I seen this in writing nor did the dealer mention it. They did say to forward pictures of the blisters and they would consult with the dealer on what to do. Looks like I may be looking for a good Jewish lawyer. A good Jewish lawyer wouldn't take your case. If you want to prevent further disintegration of your boat, don't use it in salt water. Do you know what the third least noble metal next to lead and magnesium is? Hint. It's one of the materials that Mercury Marine recommends as a sacrificial anode. |
Galvanic corrosion
Jimmy boy... over the last two seasons I've used the boat 80 percent of the time in salt or brackish water.
I don't expect that to change much. I have the wrong boat and have to figure how to get into a similar fiberglass version without draining my somewhat limited resources. |
Galvanic corrosion
On 5/17/2014 7:11 AM, True North wrote:
Jimmy boy... over the last two seasons I've used the boat 80 percent of the time in salt or brackish water. I don't expect that to change much. I have the wrong boat and have to figure how to get into a similar fiberglass version without draining my somewhat limited resources. That might be tough. A savvy used aluminum boat buyer isn't going to be looking for a pristine buy in a seaport city. Your best bet is to put it on consignment at an inland dealer. It's too bad you ignored our advice about aluminum boats in sal****er use. But that's water over the dam. Let's move on. How can we help you make a better choice this time? |
Galvanic corrosion
On 5/17/2014 7:11 AM, True North wrote:
Jimmy boy... over the last two seasons I've used the boat 80 percent of the time in salt or brackish water. I don't expect that to change much. I have the wrong boat and have to figure how to get into a similar fiberglass version without draining my somewhat limited resources. There are many aluminum boats that survive salt water use. The USCG uses them. They just have to be designed properly using proper materials and anti-corrosion precautions. |
Galvanic corrosion
On 5/17/2014 7:43 AM, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:
On 5/17/2014 7:11 AM, True North wrote: Jimmy boy... over the last two seasons I've used the boat 80 percent of the time in salt or brackish water. I don't expect that to change much. I have the wrong boat and have to figure how to get into a similar fiberglass version without draining my somewhat limited resources. That might be tough. A savvy used aluminum boat buyer isn't going to be looking for a pristine buy in a seaport city. Your best bet is to put it on consignment at an inland dealer. It's too bad you ignored our advice about aluminum boats in sal****er use. But that's water over the dam. Let's move on. How can we help you make a better choice this time? Don't get him going.. it's nice to see him posting like an adult for a change. |
Galvanic corrosion
On Sat, 17 May 2014 07:59:22 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote: On 5/17/2014 7:11 AM, True North wrote: Jimmy boy... over the last two seasons I've used the boat 80 percent of the time in salt or brackish water. I don't expect that to change much. I have the wrong boat and have to figure how to get into a similar fiberglass version without draining my somewhat limited resources. There are many aluminum boats that survive salt water use. The USCG uses them. They just have to be designed properly using proper materials and anti-corrosion precautions. === That is correct. There are many aluminum boats in Alaska and the Pacific North West. They are renowned for their toughness and relative light weight. I used to sail offshore on a number of aluminum racing sail boats. It is important however that stainless fasteners and fittings be properly bedded, and that the right type of sacrificial anodes are used. Don, since your issue seems to be primarily cosmetic at this point, I'd try to remediate the problem as best you can, ignore the rest, and continue to enjoy your boat. The fish don't care about that shiny new look. |
Galvanic corrosion
On 5/17/2014 7:59 AM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 5/17/2014 7:11 AM, True North wrote: Jimmy boy... over the last two seasons I've used the boat 80 percent of the time in salt or brackish water. I don't expect that to change much. I have the wrong boat and have to figure how to get into a similar fiberglass version without draining my somewhat limited resources. There are many aluminum boats that survive salt water use. The USCG uses them. They just have to be designed properly using proper materials and anti-corrosion precautions. Sure. If Donny wants to stick with aluminum, he needs to do some research, focusing on salt water usage, care, and precautions. Corrosion protection and prevention is a matter that needs attention on ANY boat. |
Galvanic corrosion
On 5/17/2014 8:30 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Sat, 17 May 2014 07:59:22 -0400, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 5/17/2014 7:11 AM, True North wrote: Jimmy boy... over the last two seasons I've used the boat 80 percent of the time in salt or brackish water. I don't expect that to change much. I have the wrong boat and have to figure how to get into a similar fiberglass version without draining my somewhat limited resources. There are many aluminum boats that survive salt water use. The USCG uses them. They just have to be designed properly using proper materials and anti-corrosion precautions. === That is correct. There are many aluminum boats in Alaska and the Pacific North West. They are renowned for their toughness and relative light weight. I used to sail offshore on a number of aluminum racing sail boats. It is important however that stainless fasteners and fittings be properly bedded, and that the right type of sacrificial anodes are used. Don, since your issue seems to be primarily cosmetic at this point, I'd try to remediate the problem as best you can, ignore the rest, and continue to enjoy your boat. The fish don't care about that shiny new look. He could make a decent repair by removing the snaps, filling and fairing the holes and covering the repairs with a nice vinyl bootstripe. He will. of course need to find a different method of tying down his cover. |
Galvanic corrosion
On Sat, 17 May 2014 08:43:17 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d
wrote: On 5/17/2014 8:30 AM, Wayne.B wrote: On Sat, 17 May 2014 07:59:22 -0400, "Mr. Luddite" wrote: On 5/17/2014 7:11 AM, True North wrote: Jimmy boy... over the last two seasons I've used the boat 80 percent of the time in salt or brackish water. I don't expect that to change much. I have the wrong boat and have to figure how to get into a similar fiberglass version without draining my somewhat limited resources. There are many aluminum boats that survive salt water use. The USCG uses them. They just have to be designed properly using proper materials and anti-corrosion precautions. === That is correct. There are many aluminum boats in Alaska and the Pacific North West. They are renowned for their toughness and relative light weight. I used to sail offshore on a number of aluminum racing sail boats. It is important however that stainless fasteners and fittings be properly bedded, and that the right type of sacrificial anodes are used. Don, since your issue seems to be primarily cosmetic at this point, I'd try to remediate the problem as best you can, ignore the rest, and continue to enjoy your boat. The fish don't care about that shiny new look. He could make a decent repair by removing the snaps, filling and fairing the holes and covering the repairs with a nice vinyl bootstripe. He will. of course need to find a different method of tying down his cover. === You make an interesting point with the vinyl stripe. That would not only look good but could also provide an insulating layer for properly installed stainless snaps, in conjunction with the right bedding compound. The new snaps don't have to be in the same spot as the old, just requires moving the snap locations on the cover. The dealer might even be willing to help with a plan like that. |
Galvanic corrosion
It isn't just the "mooring" cover that uses the snaps but also the stand up canvas with back and side panels that supposedly allow you to travel at speed in shade or in dry warm comfort in bad weather.
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Galvanic corrosion
On 5/17/2014 8:34 AM, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:
On 5/17/2014 7:59 AM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 5/17/2014 7:11 AM, True North wrote: Jimmy boy... over the last two seasons I've used the boat 80 percent of the time in salt or brackish water. I don't expect that to change much. I have the wrong boat and have to figure how to get into a similar fiberglass version without draining my somewhat limited resources. There are many aluminum boats that survive salt water use. The USCG uses them. They just have to be designed properly using proper materials and anti-corrosion precautions. Sure. If Donny wants to stick with aluminum, he needs to do some research, focusing on salt water usage, care, and precautions. Corrosion protection and prevention is a matter that needs attention on ANY boat. Yup. Fiberglass isn't exactly maintenance free and has it's own group of problems. |
Galvanic corrosion
On 5/17/2014 9:28 AM, True North wrote:
It isn't just the "mooring" cover that uses the snaps but also the stand up canvas with back and side panels that supposedly allow you to travel at speed in shade or in dry warm comfort in bad weather. Try plastic snaps. |
Galvanic corrosion
Wayne, you do have point.
Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver. Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads. Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there. I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off. |
Galvanic corrosion
On Sat, 17 May 2014 07:16:52 -0700 (PDT), True North
wrote: Wayne, you do have point. Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver. Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads. Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there. I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off. === The bilge should be OK as long as the builder didn't use any SS fasteners, and that would be very unusual. If you keep it clean and dry, and do not let copper of any kind get in the bilge, it should be fine. The skipper of one of the aluminum boats that I used to race on was absolutely fanatical about that. He made everyone dump the change out of their pockets before coming aboard to prevent the chance of someone accidently dropping a copper penny. |
Galvanic corrosion
On 5/17/2014 10:16 AM, True North wrote:
Wayne, you do have point. Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver. Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads. Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there. I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off. Another tool you might consider is a hand impact tool and/or a set of small left handed drill bits. Once you booger up the cross point screw head your only recourse is drilling or grinding the screw flush. The alternative is to take the Harry route and let the pros do it. |
Galvanic corrosion
On 5/17/2014 11:46 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 17 May 2014 11:34:03 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote: On 5/17/2014 11:14 AM, wrote: On Sat, 17 May 2014 03:33:32 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote: Yesterday I was on the Legend website where they have a chat function. I asked the rep about the snaps and she confirmed that they were indeed stainless steel. She then asked if I had any other concerns. I felt chatty so I informed her about the corrosion problem... not really expecting to much back. She went right to the warranty manager and quoted him as saying salt water corrosion was an unpredictable process and not really a warranty problem. He also stated they didn't recommend their boats be used in salt water. First I heard of this and no where have I seen this in writing nor did the dealer mention it. They did say to forward pictures of the blisters and they would consult with the dealer on what to do. Looks like I may be looking for a good Jewish lawyer. Make sure they are really stainless (scratch it and see if there is brass under the shiny part). Then see what grade they are. Are they magnetic (more like 304) or non-magnetic (the 316 end) 316 snaps, installed with TefGel will be your best bet. I have an aluminum boat that has lived it's whole life in salt water. I can show you pictures of a couple different stainless grades and how they react with the aluminum. These are 18-8 bolts http://gfretwell.com/ftp/SS%20aluminum%20bolts.jpg That white stuff is what is bonding his screws to the aluminum. #6 or #8 screws are easily broken, especially when bedded in thick aluminum. He's got a job on his hands. PB Blaster will cut through the white stuff. Donnie needs to know that. |
Galvanic corrosion
On Sat, 17 May 2014 11:46:09 -0400, wrote:
That white stuff is what is bonding his screws to the aluminum. #6 or #8 screws are easily broken, especially when bedded in thick aluminum. He's got a job on his hands. PB Blaster will cut through the white stuff. === That and a good sharp rap with a hammer will sometimes break the bond if it's not too far gone. |
Galvanic corrosion
wrote:
On Thu, 15 May 2014 05:00:06 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote: My new boat started to develop blisters under the gunnel paint where the cover snaps are attached. After the 2nd season of use, I brought this to the attention of the dealer and Legend boats up in Ontario. This was last October and the manufacturer still hasn't come up with a plan to remedy the problem. I did the usual Google research and sent the links to the service manager at my dealer. Guy at Legend said he didn't want to talk directly with me and problem should be handled through dealer. They also wanted me to tow the boat back to the dealer ( 180 miles round trip ) so techs could check for stray current, which I did while down anyway for winter servicing. No stray current from my motor. They also suggested that it could be a stray current problem at the docks I frequent or stray current at local, marinas. I explained that most of the small boat launches I use have no electrical services and anyway, I'm only there long enough to get my trailer and retrieve the boat. Anyway I just contacted the General Manager of the dealership (member of family who owns the business) who acted as my salesman two years ago when I showed up while the sales staff were away at a boat show. He says he will look into problem. From what I read, we have to remove the snaps that screw directly into the painted aluminum gunnel, sand, prime and paint affected areas. Then we have to find a suitable gasket or washer to isolate the snap and the aluminum and even coat the shafts of the attaching screw with liquid electrical tape or silicone to isolate them as possible. My question is, can those self tapping screws be backed out of the aluminum and then be re-installed? I broke two bits trying with a hand screwdriver last fall, so I google up higher rated impact type bits like the Makita Gold That should hold up in my corded drill/driver. Anyone ever attempt this. Are these stainless or are they chrome over brass? (scratch one and see) Brass and aluminum are a battery and they will blow holes in the aluminum in the presence of an electrolyte like salt water http://gfretwell.com/ftp/aluminum%20corrosion.jpg Manufacturers do seem to get away with it on a fresh water only boat. Stainless is better but still not totally immune. If you use stainless, put some TefGel between them and use only 316 stainless parts. Here's one chart. The closer there are, the better they work with each other: http://www.corrosionist.com/galvanic...sion_chart.htm |
Galvanic corrosion
True North wrote:
Yesterday I was on the Legend website where they have a chat function. I asked the rep about the snaps and she confirmed that they were indeed stainless steel. She then asked if I had any other concerns. I felt chatty so I informed her about the corrosion problem... not really expecting to much back. She went right to the warranty manager and quoted him as saying salt water corrosion was an unpredictable process and not really a warranty problem. He also stated they didn't recommend their boats be used in salt water. First I heard of this and no where have I seen this in writing nor did the dealer mention it. They did say to forward pictures of the blisters and they would consult with the dealer on what to do. Looks like I may be looking for a good Jewish lawyer. You bought an aluminum boat that wasn't designed for sal****er? Why bring religion into play? That's a stereotype similar to racism. |
Galvanic corrosion
True North wrote:
Jimmy boy... over the last two seasons I've used the boat 80 percent of the time in salt or brackish water. I don't expect that to change much. I have the wrong boat and have to figure how to get into a similar fiberglass version without draining my somewhat limited resources. That makes buying a Blackberry Playbook a minor ****up, eh? |
Galvanic corrosion
True North wrote:
Wayne, you do have point. Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver. Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads. Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there. I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off. Imagine how bad it would be if you used it more? I hope you spray the whole boat with fresh eater after each run. I take my aluminum boat into into the sal****er for bay fishing and I hose it down completely. It does have anodes and is rated for sal****er use. |
Galvanic corrosion
On 5/18/2014 12:12 AM, Earl wrote:
True North wrote: Jimmy boy... over the last two seasons I've used the boat 80 percent of the time in salt or brackish water. I don't expect that to change much. I have the wrong boat and have to figure how to get into a similar fiberglass version without draining my somewhat limited resources. That makes buying a Blackberry Playbook a minor ****up, eh? Donnie's cheap. IF he's lucky enough to get the screws out, and he insists on replacing the snaps, he should use galvanized screws. They're cheap too. ;-) |
Galvanic corrosion
On 5/18/2014 12:20 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 18 May 2014 00:06:53 -0400, Earl wrote: wrote: Stainless is better but still not totally immune. If you use stainless, put some TefGel between them and use only 316 stainless parts. Here's one chart. The closer there are, the better they work with each other: http://www.corrosionist.com/galvanic...sion_chart.htm Stainless looks a lot worse on that chart than reality. My boat is bolded together with stainless fasteners, it gets dunked in warm salt water about 100 days a year for the last 40 years and I am not really seeing that much trouble. Could be that your boat isn't made of cheap aluminum designed for fresh water use only. |
Galvanic corrosion
On 5/18/14, 12:30 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 18 May 2014 07:32:01 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote: On 5/18/2014 12:20 AM, wrote: On Sun, 18 May 2014 00:06:53 -0400, Earl wrote: wrote: Stainless is better but still not totally immune. If you use stainless, put some TefGel between them and use only 316 stainless parts. Here's one chart. The closer there are, the better they work with each other: http://www.corrosionist.com/galvanic...sion_chart.htm Stainless looks a lot worse on that chart than reality. My boat is bolded together with stainless fasteners, it gets dunked in warm salt water about 100 days a year for the last 40 years and I am not really seeing that much trouble. Could be that your boat isn't made of cheap aluminum designed for fresh water use only. I still wonder if those "stainless" snaps are not actually chrome over brass. Stainless corrosion on aluminum would be a white powder. Again, look into "TefGel" that is what the bimini top installers use when they put stainless screws on aluminum pontoon boat rails. It creates that barrier you need. http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor I see FlaJim is still the same insulting asshole he's always been. Must be tough stuck in the 7th grade as long as he's been there. |
Galvanic corrosion
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Galvanic corrosion
On 5/18/2014 12:51 PM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 5/18/14, 12:30 PM, wrote: On Sun, 18 May 2014 07:32:01 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote: On 5/18/2014 12:20 AM, wrote: On Sun, 18 May 2014 00:06:53 -0400, Earl wrote: wrote: Stainless is better but still not totally immune. If you use stainless, put some TefGel between them and use only 316 stainless parts. Here's one chart. The closer there are, the better they work with each other: http://www.corrosionist.com/galvanic...sion_chart.htm Stainless looks a lot worse on that chart than reality. My boat is bolded together with stainless fasteners, it gets dunked in warm salt water about 100 days a year for the last 40 years and I am not really seeing that much trouble. Could be that your boat isn't made of cheap aluminum designed for fresh water use only. I still wonder if those "stainless" snaps are not actually chrome over brass. Stainless corrosion on aluminum would be a white powder. Again, look into "TefGel" that is what the bimini top installers use when they put stainless screws on aluminum pontoon boat rails. It creates that barrier you need. http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor I see FlaJim is still the same insulting asshole he's always been. Must be tough stuck in the 7th grade as long as he's been there. Pot kettle black, sweetcheeks. |
Galvanic corrosion
On Sun, 18 May 2014 13:21:21 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d
wrote: On 5/18/2014 12:24 PM, wrote: On Sun, 18 May 2014 00:23:09 -0400, Earl wrote: True North wrote: Wayne, you do have point. Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver. Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads. Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there. I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off. Imagine how bad it would be if you used it more? I hope you spray the whole boat with fresh eater after each run. I take my aluminum boat into into the sal****er for bay fishing and I hose it down completely. It does have anodes and is rated for sal****er use. The only way my boat ever gets rinsed in fresh water is if it rains. The idea that aluminum boats are not suitable for salt water is ludicrous Tell that to Donnie's boatbuilder. === Don's boatbuilder is trying to weasel out of a warranty claim. |
Galvanic corrosion
On Sunday, May 18, 2014 12:51:13 PM UTC-4, F*O*A*D wrote:
I see FlaJim is still the same insulting asshole he's always been. Must be tough stuck in the 7th grade as long as he's been there. Just like YOU...huh ****? |
Galvanic corrosion
On 5/17/14, 8:02 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Sat, 17 May 2014 07:16:52 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote: Wayne, you do have point. Instead of taking a hit trading in a 2 year old boat, I already have the primer, official can of the factory paint and just picked up the Makita Gold impact bits rated as much stronger than the ordinary bits I broke last fall with my hand rachting screwdriver. Maybe with my half inch corded drill/driver, I can get most of the snaps off without drilling out the ss screw heads. Thenthe only worry might be what's going on in the bilge if sal****er gets in there. I do stick the garden hose in and flush, and crank the tongue jack up to drain off. === The bilge should be OK as long as the builder didn't use any SS fasteners, and that would be very unusual. If you keep it clean and dry, and do not let copper of any kind get in the bilge, it should be fine. The skipper of one of the aluminum boats that I used to race on was absolutely fanatical about that. He made everyone dump the change out of their pockets before coming aboard to prevent the chance of someone accidently dropping a copper penny. a little anal, but my only corrosion hole in the bottom, was because a piece of copper wire got lodged in the junk in the bottom of the anchor locker. When we welded up the hole, I made bigger limber holes to allow less dirt collection at the cross braces. And my boat is a lot sturdier boat than Don's. 3/16 aluminum and is 5061, which is an aluminum that handles salt water well. |
Galvanic corrosion
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