Two of my canoes have cane seats which have imploded. I would like to
replace the cane with something that will last. I've tried using
webbing, attached with stainless screws and washers, but can't seem to
get it tight. Any suggestions?

Sue

Sue Goddard wrote in message ...
Two of my canoes have cane seats which have imploded. I would like to
replace the cane with something that will last. I've tried using
webbing, attached with stainless screws and washers, but can't seem to
get it tight. Any suggestions?

Sue,

I've replaced the cane on a couple dozen seats with worn/failed cane
as follows.

(Note: I've begun using stainless steel staples and leaving them in
instead of removing them as noted below)

Put the canoe up on sawhorses at a comfortable work level. Before you
remove the seat hardware (bolts, nuts, washers, etc) carefully inspect
the order/arrangement of these parts. Write down the proper order or
make a sketch, otherwise you may find yourself wondering, when you are
ready to reinstall the seats, if it went bolt-gunwale-washer-dowel
hanger-washer-seat frame-washer-lock washer-nut...wait, where did the
this rubber washer fit in????

After recording the proper order of these parts for reinstallation
remove the bolts, set them securely aside and remove the seats. If
there appears to be a difference in bolt lengths mark which bolts go
where.

So, aside from the webbing being shot, what is the condition of the
seat frames themselves? If the webbing is in need of repair chances
are the seat frame could use some sprucing up too. While you have the
frames out of the boat this is the perfect time to sand them down,
re-stain and revarnish them. If they need such work first remove any
traces of the old webbing and spline (the stuff that is jammed in the
crack where the webbing disappears on top of the seat), sand them
smooth, stain them and set them aside until the stain has dried. Then
brush on a coat of quality spar varnish (exterior polyurethane - DON'T
use regular, interior poly-u). Let the spar varnish dry, lightly sand
the frame with 400 grit or so sandpaper and apply another coat of
varnish. Repeat this process as often as you can stand (three coats at
least).

OK, once the varnish ordeal is over it's time to replace the old cane
with fresh webbing. If you don't like the look of the old spline
groove you can simply flip the seat over so the spline groove in on
the bottom (unless, of course, this is a curved seat frame).

Measure for the amount of webbing you'll need (if you are using 2 inch
wide webbing this will end up being something like 3 long pieces and 5
short pieces per seat, times two seats...about 20+ feet of two inch
webbing (betcha didn't think it would take 20 feet of webbing, eh?).
When you calculate the amount of webbing needed measure a distance
across the top of the seat and enough to wrap around the sides, across
the bottom and back up the inside edge to the bottom of the seat
opening (this will make much more sense when you start to measure).
Add up all your measurements and go buy your webbing; outdoor
equipment stores are a good bet...Sunny's Outdoors carries black 2
inch webbing...American Science & Surplus (catalogue) carries 1 inch
webbing in hot orange or fuchsia...

Take one seat frame. Re-measure the webbing length needed for each
direction (side-to-side and front-to-back) and cut one section of
each. Seal both cut ends with an open flame (a candle will work just
fine). Test your sample pieces...are they the correct length? Good,
now cut all of the pieces you'll need for one seat (cut them about
1/4" short...you'll stretch them a bit when putting them on) and flame
the ends of each piece. Space them out along the frame and calculate
how much gap to leave between each piece to evenly fill out each
direction.

Lay the first piece across the top of the seat, with equal amounts
dangling on each side. Take one edge of the webbing, wrap it around
the seat frame and tack it to the bottom of the frame with a staple
gun. Allow the staple to protrude a bit; you'll be pulling it back out
later. Now hammer a couple of brass tacks/brads through the webbing on
the bottom inside edge of the frame (on the vertical face of the frame
inside the open square of the seat). IMPORTANT - when you hammer these
tacks in place rest the strut of the seat frame against a block of
raised wood so you are not hammering the frame out of joint).

With one edge of the webbing secure, P U L L the webbing taut across
the top of the seat and, keeping it tight, put a temporary staple
through the webbing to hold it in place on the bottom edge of the
other side. Hammer the brads in place on the inside edge as before.
Remove the staples on that piece. Put the next piece of webbing on
running in the same direction (remember to leave the gap you
calculated), and the next, and the next, ‘till all the webbing in one
direction is in place.

Take the pre-cut pieces of webbing that run in the other direction lay
them in place to calculate the gap between pieces needed in this
direction. WEAVE the first piece through the webbing you just
installed (over-under-over-under) and stretch/staple/hammer it in
place as before. Start the next piece of webbing (remember the gap)
alternating the weave from the first (under-over- under-over). Keep
going...one seat is done. Nice job. I especially like the alternating
hot orange and fuchsia color scheme.

Repeat this same process on the other seat.

Find that diagram you made showing the correct order of the seat
hardware for re-installation.

Put the seats back on.

Go paddling.

"Mike McCrea" wrote in message
om...
Sue Goddard wrote in message
...

My 2-cents worth stuck in everywhere. (and why doesn't my keyboard have a
'cents' sign???)

Two of my canoes have cane seats which have imploded. I would like to
replace the cane with something that will last. I've tried using
webbing, attached with stainless screws and washers, but can't seem to
get it tight. Any suggestions?

Sue,

I've replaced the cane on a couple dozen seats with worn/failed cane
as follows.


After recording the proper order of these parts for reinstallation
remove the bolts, set them securely aside and remove the seats. If
there appears to be a difference in bolt lengths mark which bolts go
where.

The first time I uninstalled a seat, I labeled the corners 1-4, and had 4
baggies for the parts. When I pulled the center bolt out, I threaded each of
the parts back onto the threaded rod in exactly the order they came off.
Then I could use each one as a reference for the other three when I was
reassembling.


Add up all your measurements and go buy your webbing; outdoor
equipment stores are a good bet...Sunny's Outdoors carries black 2
inch webbing...American Science & Surplus (catalogue) carries 1 inch
webbing in hot orange or fuchsia...

Be sure to get NYLON webbing, and not COTTON-NYLON or COTTON webbing. The
cotton stuff stretches and stays wet longer. It also rots in the offseason.
The best webbing is the stuff they use to make camstraps, IMNSHO.


Take one seat frame. Re-measure the webbing length needed for each
direction (side-to-side and front-to-back) and cut one section of
each. Seal both cut ends with an open flame (a candle will work just
fine).

What works even better is to take a butter knife, heat it up in a flame,
place the webbing on a piece of wood, and lay the blade on the webbing. It
will slice through like....well, like a hot knife through butter. And it
will seal its own slice without making any lumps.

The rest of the stuff looked pretty good to me. Especially....

go paddling!

--riverman