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Padeen
 
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Default Over-the-winter drysuit seal retention

Your experience with 303 matches my own, and with your input I now believe
that what Brian says below about Armor-all:

"Take your bottle of Armorall to the nearest trash can and deposit it there.
It's worthless junk that damages more materials than it preserves, including
your car."

can be said for 303 as well. I've found that the only use 303 has is to
force the use of more 303; very handy if you sell 303 but just another
consumer-targeted fraud. I've had my present drytop since 2000, have used
nothing on it, never washed it, store it in -50 deg. and expect to replace
the worn-out fabric (G-tx) before the gaskets.

Brian's other comments seem reasonable.

Brad





"Michael Daly" wrote in message
...
On 31-May-2004, Charles Pezeshki wrote:

spraying heavy amounts of Armor-All to get them flexible again.

However,
I'd like to figure out a way so that they didn't get so stiff in the

first
place.


Most suit manufacturers recommend _against_ using Armor-All. 303

Protectant
is the preferred one.

I have a cheap drytop and an expensive drysuit. I dutifully apply 303 to

the
neck and wrist seals of the drysuit and ignore the drytop. The latter is
about two years older than the drysuit.

The drysuit latex is showing signs of cracking and wearing out. The

drytop
is coming apart at the seams, but the latex is like new. Go figure.

Mike



 
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