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#21
posted to rec.boats
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3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Jul 12, 10:37*pm, "Steve" wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message .... On Jul 12, 10:04 am, I_am_Tosk wrote: In article , says... my compression gauge only goes to 160. I pegged the gauge on each cylinder. I started it last night, ran fine. It seems to do this only when it has below 1/2 tank. and after idleing for a while (over 10 minutes) SOOOO ???? Its in a Balyliner 175,year:2005. A couple of ideas that I want to throw out there . Is there a screen in the fuel pick up?, I already checked the gas tank vent, clear. Could the ignition module be funky, gets hot and retards the timing? I really dont want this one, can a bad flapper/shutter cause it, Thanks again. Sorry for the mindtwist Steve "Tim" wrote in message .... On Jul 11, 9:13 pm, I_am_Tosk wrote: In article d9767c46-043d-4627-83df-cf4287ca83b7 @d14g2000yqb.googlegroups.com, says... On Jul 11, 5:02 am, "Steve" wrote: Hey all, I have a 2005 3.0l mercruiser sterndrive that is acting wierd. It will run all day long, runs great, but at the end of the day, it refuses to idle, it just dies on me. Start it back up and it will run full throttle just fine, but try to idle and it dies. If I let it sit for a day or two, it goes back to running normal. So far I have rebuilt the carb, rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel filter. checked for water in the gas, put another ingnition module in, replaced the coil. Im out of things to do. What am I missing? Thanks Steve --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- You might want to run a compression test to see if you have a burnt valve. My 140 would sort of do the same thing, but would run WO and pull the proverbial "4000 RPM", and there was no sign of water in the oil, but when idling back down it would cough, and die. it took some throttle work to get it over the dead spot but would seem to run fine. however, pulling a tube was a chore. a real loss of power. but w/o the extra drag, you couldn't tell it.Under investigation it had a blown head gasket and two exhaust valves burnt. Had the head checked out, replaced with all steel valves and a new gasket Runs great and hasn't stalled since. Yup, that's what I am thinkin'... -- Team Rowdy Mouse, Banned from the Mall for life! Yeah, Scott. I think his problem is'nt fuel delivery, but much deeper than that. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Well, a compression test is great if the symptoms are happening when it's cold and you do the test, but in the case of a smoked valve, it can happen only when it gets hot (for now)... I could be wrong but I think for the valves, you need to do a leak down test, and even then if the valve isn't hanging open cold, it won't show you much... -- Team Rowdy Mouse, Banned from the Mall for life!- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - You can do a compression test when it's hot and if the valves are not closing it will show a lower pressure. *And it won't hold pressure nearly as well. To differentiate between valve problems and ring problems you squirt in a little oil before testing. *Oil will improve low compression from bad rings but not from bad valves. I think he has gas problems though, not valve issues. *If the valves were staying open it would also cause hard starting when hot. And it's a merc 3.0l not a 3.01. *Which stands for 3.0 liters. *That is a 4 cylinder inline chevy engine that's been around for a long time. *You will find them and the 2.5l in all sorts of stuff besides boats. *You won't get a ton power out of one but they are very reliable as a rule. *I believe the volvo 3.0l is based on the same engine. *Not to be confused with Mercs 4 cylinder "half of a ford cobrajet" engine. OK let me start over, It is the Chevy 3.0 litre engine.(4 stroke) alpha gen II outdrive. a 2005 to be exact. Symptoms: *Will run great all day, when it gets to a half tank or at the end of the day, it will start and run fine, but when it idles for longer than 10 minutes, it will die. Then after it dies, it is VERY hard to start and will only stay running at over 2k rpm. go back to it in a day or so, it runs fine Things I have done so far Rebuilt the carb Rebuilt the fuelpump cleaned the plugs and distributor cap ( got to wait till payday for those items) put a different coil on it tried a different ignition module compression check= over 160psi each checked the timing (with module grounded according to the book) checked the tank vent (clear) verified spark at each plug The engine never gets real hot, Im lazy and never took the time to remove the rock that is stuck in my thermostat that prevents it from closing. Im wondering if maybe I have a busted exhaust shutter. I noticed that where the manifold and the down elbow meet that there is a line of rust going down the maniflold, but it does not leak. I am super anal retentive about this boat and know that I drained it last fall. Is it possible that part of the shutter is bouncing around in the exhaust tube, getting lodged in it at times, hit a wake and it bounces free? Thanks for all the help so far --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm rather sceptical about the internal exhaust flaps. Blocking the exhaust will cause it to run poorly at low speed and not at all at high rpm. But the flaps are usually fairly easy to examine. If you remove the elbow that turns down from the riser the flaps should be just below that in the tube going down towards the outdrive. You suggested that it may have a relationship to the amount of gas you have left. Test that theory. Be near a marina with fuel when you start to get around half a tank. When it acts up go fill it up. No marina then put several 5 gallon cans of gas in the back of your truck and be near the dock when it acts up. You also said it goes away when it has cooled for days. Was that without filling the tank back up? Instead let it cool for just an hour or so and see if the problem goes away. Does the engine have a regular cover on it or is it under a sundeck? You could try leaving the engine open by leaving off the cover for a day. If the problem is eventual heat soak into something that would delay that. I also suggested checking the compression when hot as well as checking the fuel pressure when it is acting up. Plus you can check the timing when it's acting up without grounding the ignition module. Just note the deg at idle and at 2k rpm when the engiine is not acting up without grounding it. Then check them again when it is. |
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#22
posted to rec.boats
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3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Jul 13, 8:13*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 12, 10:37*pm, "Steve" wrote: "jamesgangnc" wrote in message .... On Jul 12, 10:04 am, I_am_Tosk wrote: In article , says... my compression gauge only goes to 160. I pegged the gauge on each cylinder. I started it last night, ran fine. It seems to do this only when it has below 1/2 tank. and after idleing for a while (over 10 minutes) SOOOO ???? Its in a Balyliner 175,year:2005. A couple of ideas that I want to throw out there . Is there a screen in the fuel pick up?, I already checked the gas tank vent, clear. Could the ignition module be funky, gets hot and retards the timing? I really dont want this one, can a bad flapper/shutter cause it, Thanks again. Sorry for the mindtwist Steve "Tim" wrote in message ... On Jul 11, 9:13 pm, I_am_Tosk wrote: In article d9767c46-043d-4627-83df-cf4287ca83b7 @d14g2000yqb.googlegroups.com, says... On Jul 11, 5:02 am, "Steve" wrote: Hey all, I have a 2005 3.0l mercruiser sterndrive that is acting wierd. It will run all day long, runs great, but at the end of the day, it refuses to idle, it just dies on me. Start it back up and it will run full throttle just fine, but try to idle and it dies. If I let it sit for a day or two, it goes back to running normal. So far I have rebuilt the carb, rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel filter. checked for water in the gas, put another ingnition module in, replaced the coil. Im out of things to do. What am I missing? Thanks Steve --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- You might want to run a compression test to see if you have a burnt valve. My 140 would sort of do the same thing, but would run WO and pull the proverbial "4000 RPM", and there was no sign of water in the oil, but when idling back down it would cough, and die. it took some throttle work to get it over the dead spot but would seem to run fine. however, pulling a tube was a chore. a real loss of power. but w/o the extra drag, you couldn't tell it.Under investigation it had a blown head gasket and two exhaust valves burnt. Had the head checked out, replaced with all steel valves and a new gasket Runs great and hasn't stalled since. Yup, that's what I am thinkin'... -- Team Rowdy Mouse, Banned from the Mall for life! Yeah, Scott. I think his problem is'nt fuel delivery, but much deeper than that. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Well, a compression test is great if the symptoms are happening when it's cold and you do the test, but in the case of a smoked valve, it can happen only when it gets hot (for now)... I could be wrong but I think for the valves, you need to do a leak down test, and even then if the valve isn't hanging open cold, it won't show you much... -- Team Rowdy Mouse, Banned from the Mall for life!- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - You can do a compression test when it's hot and if the valves are not closing it will show a lower pressure. *And it won't hold pressure nearly as well. To differentiate between valve problems and ring problems you squirt in a little oil before testing. *Oil will improve low compression from bad rings but not from bad valves. I think he has gas problems though, not valve issues. *If the valves were staying open it would also cause hard starting when hot. And it's a merc 3.0l not a 3.01. *Which stands for 3.0 liters. *That is a 4 cylinder inline chevy engine that's been around for a long time. *You will find them and the 2.5l in all sorts of stuff besides boats. *You won't get a ton power out of one but they are very reliable as a rule. *I believe the volvo 3.0l is based on the same engine. *Not to be confused with Mercs 4 cylinder "half of a ford cobrajet" engine. OK let me start over, It is the Chevy 3.0 litre engine.(4 stroke) alpha gen II outdrive. a 2005 to be exact. Symptoms: *Will run great all day, when it gets to a half tank or at the end of the day, it will start and run fine, but when it idles for longer than 10 minutes, it will die. Then after it dies, it is VERY hard to start and will only stay running at over 2k rpm. go back to it in a day or so, it runs fine Things I have done so far Rebuilt the carb Rebuilt the fuelpump cleaned the plugs and distributor cap ( got to wait till payday for those items) put a different coil on it tried a different ignition module compression check= over 160psi each checked the timing (with module grounded according to the book) checked the tank vent (clear) verified spark at each plug The engine never gets real hot, Im lazy and never took the time to remove the rock that is stuck in my thermostat that prevents it from closing. Im wondering if maybe I have a busted exhaust shutter. I noticed that where the manifold and the down elbow meet that there is a line of rust going down the maniflold, but it does not leak. I am super anal retentive about this boat and know that I drained it last fall. Is it possible that part of the shutter is bouncing around in the exhaust tube, getting lodged in it at times, hit a wake and it bounces free? Thanks for all the help so far --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm rather sceptical about the internal exhaust flaps. *Blocking the exhaust will cause it to run poorly at low speed and not at all at high rpm. *But the flaps are usually fairly easy to examine. *If you remove the elbow that turns down from the riser the flaps should be just below that in the tube going down towards the outdrive. You suggested that it may have a relationship to the amount of gas you have left. * Test that theory. *Be near a marina with fuel when you start to get around half a tank. *When it acts up go fill it up. *No marina then put several 5 gallon cans of gas in the back of your truck and be near the dock when it acts up. You also said it goes away when it has cooled for days. *Was that without filling the tank back up? * Instead let it cool for just an hour or so and see if the problem goes away. Does the engine have a regular cover on it or is it under a sundeck? You could try leaving the engine open by leaving off the cover for a day. *If the problem is eventual heat soak into something that would delay that. I also suggested checking the compression when hot as well as checking the fuel pressure when it is acting up. *Plus you can check the timing when it's acting up without grounding the ignition module. *Just note the deg at idle and at 2k rpm when the engiine is not acting up without grounding it. *Then check them again when it is.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Btw, your symptoms sound very much like vapor lock brought on by the eventual heat soak of the general engine compartment area. Leaving the cover off all day would be a good test for that. |
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#23
posted to rec.boats
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3.0 wont idle but runs great
On 7/12/2011 10:37 PM, Steve wrote:
wrote in message ... On Jul 12, 10:04 am, wrote: In , says... my compression gauge only goes to 160. I pegged the gauge on each cylinder. I started it last night, ran fine. It seems to do this only when it has below 1/2 tank. and after idleing for a while (over 10 minutes) SOOOO ???? Its in a Balyliner 175,year:2005. A couple of ideas that I want to throw out there . Is there a screen in the fuel pick up?, I already checked the gas tank vent, clear. Could the ignition module be funky, gets hot and retards the timing? I really dont want this one, can a bad flapper/shutter cause it, Thanks again. Sorry for the mindtwist Steve wrote in message ... On Jul 11, 9:13 pm, wrote: In articled9767c46-043d-4627-83df-cf4287ca83b7 @d14g2000yqb.googlegroups.com, says... On Jul 11, 5:02 am, wrote: Hey all, I have a 2005 3.0l mercruiser sterndrive that is acting wierd. It will run all day long, runs great, but at the end of the day, it refuses to idle, it just dies on me. Start it back up and it will run full throttle just fine, but try to idle and it dies. If I let it sit for a day or two, it goes back to running normal. So far I have rebuilt the carb, rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel filter. checked for water in the gas, put another ingnition module in, replaced the coil. Im out of things to do. What am I missing? Thanks Steve --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- You might want to run a compression test to see if you have a burnt valve. My 140 would sort of do the same thing, but would run WO and pull the proverbial "4000 RPM", and there was no sign of water in the oil, but when idling back down it would cough, and die. it took some throttle work to get it over the dead spot but would seem to run fine. however, pulling a tube was a chore. a real loss of power. but w/o the extra drag, you couldn't tell it.Under investigation it had a blown head gasket and two exhaust valves burnt. Had the head checked out, replaced with all steel valves and a new gasket Runs great and hasn't stalled since. Yup, that's what I am thinkin'... -- Team Rowdy Mouse, Banned from the Mall for life! Yeah, Scott. I think his problem is'nt fuel delivery, but much deeper than that. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Well, a compression test is great if the symptoms are happening when it's cold and you do the test, but in the case of a smoked valve, it can happen only when it gets hot (for now)... I could be wrong but I think for the valves, you need to do a leak down test, and even then if the valve isn't hanging open cold, it won't show you much... -- Team Rowdy Mouse, Banned from the Mall for life!- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - You can do a compression test when it's hot and if the valves are not closing it will show a lower pressure. And it won't hold pressure nearly as well. To differentiate between valve problems and ring problems you squirt in a little oil before testing. Oil will improve low compression from bad rings but not from bad valves. I think he has gas problems though, not valve issues. If the valves were staying open it would also cause hard starting when hot. And it's a merc 3.0l not a 3.01. Which stands for 3.0 liters. That is a 4 cylinder inline chevy engine that's been around for a long time. You will find them and the 2.5l in all sorts of stuff besides boats. You won't get a ton power out of one but they are very reliable as a rule. I believe the volvo 3.0l is based on the same engine. Not to be confused with Mercs 4 cylinder "half of a ford cobrajet" engine. OK let me start over, It is the Chevy 3.0 litre engine.(4 stroke) alpha gen II outdrive. a 2005 to be exact. Symptoms: Will run great all day, when it gets to a half tank or at the end of the day, it will start and run fine, but when it idles for longer than 10 minutes, it will die. Then after it dies, it is VERY hard to start and will only stay running at over 2k rpm. go back to it in a day or so, it runs fine Things I have done so far Rebuilt the carb Rebuilt the fuelpump cleaned the plugs and distributor cap ( got to wait till payday for those items) put a different coil on it tried a different ignition module compression check= over 160psi each checked the timing (with module grounded according to the book) checked the tank vent (clear) verified spark at each plug The engine never gets real hot, Im lazy and never took the time to remove the rock that is stuck in my thermostat that prevents it from closing. Im wondering if maybe I have a busted exhaust shutter. I noticed that where the manifold and the down elbow meet that there is a line of rust going down the maniflold, but it does not leak. I am super anal retentive about this boat and know that I drained it last fall. Is it possible that part of the shutter is bouncing around in the exhaust tube, getting lodged in it at times, hit a wake and it bounces free? Thanks for all the help so far --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Steve, Thanks for starting a boating post. Exhaust shutters usually get very noisy. once in a while they break and fall to the bottom of the exhaust pipe. No biggie. Needs fixing but it isn't your problem. You need to clear or replace the thermostat. Running cool leads to poor gas mileage plug fouling and or carbon buildup ( excessively high compression). Also part of the ignition is the trigger in the distributor. They probably fail more often than the ECM. |
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#24
posted to rec.boats
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3.0 wont idle but runs great
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#25
posted to rec.boats
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3.0 wont idle but runs great
On 7/13/11 8:13 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 12, 10:37 pm, wrote: wrote in message ... On Jul 12, 10:04 am, wrote: In , says... my compression gauge only goes to 160. I pegged the gauge on each cylinder. I started it last night, ran fine. It seems to do this only when it has below 1/2 tank. and after idleing for a while (over 10 minutes) SOOOO ???? Its in a Balyliner 175,year:2005. A couple of ideas that I want to throw out there . Is there a screen in the fuel pick up?, I already checked the gas tank vent, clear. Could the ignition module be funky, gets hot and retards the timing? I really dont want this one, can a bad flapper/shutter cause it, Thanks again. Sorry for the mindtwist Steve wrote in message ... On Jul 11, 9:13 pm, wrote: In articled9767c46-043d-4627-83df-cf4287ca83b7 @d14g2000yqb.googlegroups.com, says... On Jul 11, 5:02 am, wrote: Hey all, I have a 2005 3.0l mercruiser sterndrive that is acting wierd. It will run all day long, runs great, but at the end of the day, it refuses to idle, it just dies on me. Start it back up and it will run full throttle just fine, but try to idle and it dies. If I let it sit for a day or two, it goes back to running normal. So far I have rebuilt the carb, rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel filter. checked for water in the gas, put another ingnition module in, replaced the coil. Im out of things to do. What am I missing? Thanks Steve --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- You might want to run a compression test to see if you have a burnt valve. My 140 would sort of do the same thing, but would run WO and pull the proverbial "4000 RPM", and there was no sign of water in the oil, but when idling back down it would cough, and die. it took some throttle work to get it over the dead spot but would seem to run fine. however, pulling a tube was a chore. a real loss of power. but w/o the extra drag, you couldn't tell it.Under investigation it had a blown head gasket and two exhaust valves burnt. Had the head checked out, replaced with all steel valves and a new gasket Runs great and hasn't stalled since. Yup, that's what I am thinkin'... -- Team Rowdy Mouse, Banned from the Mall for life! Yeah, Scott. I think his problem is'nt fuel delivery, but much deeper than that. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Well, a compression test is great if the symptoms are happening when it's cold and you do the test, but in the case of a smoked valve, it can happen only when it gets hot (for now)... I could be wrong but I think for the valves, you need to do a leak down test, and even then if the valve isn't hanging open cold, it won't show you much... -- Team Rowdy Mouse, Banned from the Mall for life!- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - You can do a compression test when it's hot and if the valves are not closing it will show a lower pressure. And it won't hold pressure nearly as well. To differentiate between valve problems and ring problems you squirt in a little oil before testing. Oil will improve low compression from bad rings but not from bad valves. I think he has gas problems though, not valve issues. If the valves were staying open it would also cause hard starting when hot. And it's a merc 3.0l not a 3.01. Which stands for 3.0 liters. That is a 4 cylinder inline chevy engine that's been around for a long time. You will find them and the 2.5l in all sorts of stuff besides boats. You won't get a ton power out of one but they are very reliable as a rule. I believe the volvo 3.0l is based on the same engine. Not to be confused with Mercs 4 cylinder "half of a ford cobrajet" engine. OK let me start over, It is the Chevy 3.0 litre engine.(4 stroke) alpha gen II outdrive. a 2005 to be exact. Symptoms: Will run great all day, when it gets to a half tank or at the end of the day, it will start and run fine, but when it idles for longer than 10 minutes, it will die. Then after it dies, it is VERY hard to start and will only stay running at over 2k rpm. go back to it in a day or so, it runs fine Things I have done so far Rebuilt the carb Rebuilt the fuelpump cleaned the plugs and distributor cap ( got to wait till payday for those items) put a different coil on it tried a different ignition module compression check= over 160psi each checked the timing (with module grounded according to the book) checked the tank vent (clear) verified spark at each plug The engine never gets real hot, Im lazy and never took the time to remove the rock that is stuck in my thermostat that prevents it from closing. Im wondering if maybe I have a busted exhaust shutter. I noticed that where the manifold and the down elbow meet that there is a line of rust going down the maniflold, but it does not leak. I am super anal retentive about this boat and know that I drained it last fall. Is it possible that part of the shutter is bouncing around in the exhaust tube, getting lodged in it at times, hit a wake and it bounces free? Thanks for all the help so far --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I'm rather sceptical about the internal exhaust flaps. Blocking the exhaust will cause it to run poorly at low speed and not at all at high rpm. But the flaps are usually fairly easy to examine. If you remove the elbow that turns down from the riser the flaps should be just below that in the tube going down towards the outdrive. You suggested that it may have a relationship to the amount of gas you have left. Test that theory. Be near a marina with fuel when you start to get around half a tank. When it acts up go fill it up. No marina then put several 5 gallon cans of gas in the back of your truck and be near the dock when it acts up. You also said it goes away when it has cooled for days. Was that without filling the tank back up? Instead let it cool for just an hour or so and see if the problem goes away. Does the engine have a regular cover on it or is it under a sundeck? You could try leaving the engine open by leaving off the cover for a day. If the problem is eventual heat soak into something that would delay that. I also suggested checking the compression when hot as well as checking the fuel pressure when it is acting up. Plus you can check the timing when it's acting up without grounding the ignition module. Just note the deg at idle and at 2k rpm when the engiine is not acting up without grounding it. Then check them again when it is. As long as everyone is giving wild-assed guesses... distributor problems or...if it has one, idle air solenoid... |
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#27
posted to rec.boats
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3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 11:07:38 -0500, Boating All Out wrote:
In article , says... OK let me start over, It is the Chevy 3.0 litre engine.(4 stroke) alpha gen II outdrive. a 2005 to be exact. Symptoms: Will run great all day, when it gets to a half tank or at the end of the day, it will start and run fine, but when it idles for longer than 10 minutes, it will die. Then after it dies, it is VERY hard to start and will only stay running at over 2k rpm. go back to it in a day or so, it runs fine Runs great all day. So it's not a heat/electrics problem. Half tank it gives problems. That means a bad fuel pump or bad tank venting. Check fuel pressure at full tank and at half tank. Simple. Bad tank venting. I hadn't seen that yet, but it sounds like it could be the problem. Create a vacuum and you've got a problem. Good 'eyes'. |
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#28
posted to rec.boats
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3.0 wont idle but runs great
On 7/13/2011 1:04 PM, John H wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 11:07:38 -0500, Boating All wrote: In , says... OK let me start over, It is the Chevy 3.0 litre engine.(4 stroke) alpha gen II outdrive. a 2005 to be exact. Symptoms: Will run great all day, when it gets to a half tank or at the end of the day, it will start and run fine, but when it idles for longer than 10 minutes, it will die. Then after it dies, it is VERY hard to start and will only stay running at over 2k rpm. go back to it in a day or so, it runs fine Runs great all day. So it's not a heat/electrics problem. Half tank it gives problems. That means a bad fuel pump or bad tank venting. Check fuel pressure at full tank and at half tank. Simple. Bad tank venting. I hadn't seen that yet, but it sounds like it could be the problem. Create a vacuum and you've got a problem. Good 'eyes'. Another guess. Pin holes in pickup tube in gas tank. |
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#29
posted to rec.boats
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3.0 wont idle but runs great
Well its not a pinhole in the pickup tube. Have started or seen the boat
since sunday. Started right up. So i be thinking... What about the internals of the distributor, can a pick up coil go bad? Can I use a igntion module from a car to test it again? Does anyone test ignition modules? Thanks Steve "Florida Jim" wrote in message b.com... On 7/13/2011 1:04 PM, John H wrote: On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 11:07:38 -0500, Boating All wrote: In , says... OK let me start over, It is the Chevy 3.0 litre engine.(4 stroke) alpha gen II outdrive. a 2005 to be exact. Symptoms: Will run great all day, when it gets to a half tank or at the end of the day, it will start and run fine, but when it idles for longer than 10 minutes, it will die. Then after it dies, it is VERY hard to start and will only stay running at over 2k rpm. go back to it in a day or so, it runs fine Runs great all day. So it's not a heat/electrics problem. Half tank it gives problems. That means a bad fuel pump or bad tank venting. Check fuel pressure at full tank and at half tank. Simple. Bad tank venting. I hadn't seen that yet, but it sounds like it could be the problem. Create a vacuum and you've got a problem. Good 'eyes'. Another guess. Pin holes in pickup tube in gas tank. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- |
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#30
posted to rec.boats
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3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 21:17:08 -0500, "Steve"
wrote: Can I use a igntion module from a car to test it again? Does anyone test ignition modules? === Usually it is easiest to swap one out with a module known to be good. Have you tested fuel pressure yet at the carburetor ? |
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