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Default Re-flooring my Marquis.

On Jul 5, 1:31*am, Tim wrote:
On Jul 4, 3:35*pm, "Califbill" wrote:





"Tim" *wrote in message


...


On Jul 3, 4:45 pm, John H wrote:


On Sun, 3 Jul 2011 13:48:21 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:
Had some old plywood getting soft in the center, and decided to re-do
the floor. when we pulled off the old carpet which was weathered
anyhow, we found out that in the times past someone had repaired the
floor by cutting out a center section and replacing it with standard
plywood. Evidently it had held for quite a while but it's days were
numbered. besides it gave us a chance to inspect the stringers and
other bracing etc.


So, after thinking about the re-floor, we decided to not go with
standard ply because it's not weather resistant, or marine due to the
expense, so we settled on "DRYPLY"


http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=4882


A weather resistant plywood which has a *lot of characteristics of
marine plywood but is more cost effective. Like $23.00 a 3/4 sheet at
Menards, and in stock too.


Regardless. It ought to last way longer than I'll ever have the boat..


I sure hope you can post some pictures of the process. That would be
interesting.


Wish I could John, but I'll see if I can get some shots of whats going
on tomorrow...


Reply:
Make a frame to go across the gunnels to hold the boat in shape when the
flooring is removed. *The deck is a structural member and the boat will
spread when it is removed.


We didn't remove the entire floor. everything is still in place. We
simply pulled the carpet (in rags!) and saw that someone had replaced
a center section with the cheap plywood. all braces and stringers look
great, so total removal of the floor was unnecessary.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


You can't evaluate a stringer by looking at it unless it's not
encapsulated with fiberglass. I'm betting yours are. You have to
drill a test hole in it and see if you get mush or wood out of the
hole. Fill the hole with epoxy and any filler afterwards.
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Tim Tim is offline
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Default Re-flooring my Marquis.

On Jul 5, 6:58*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 5, 1:31*am, Tim wrote:









On Jul 4, 3:35*pm, "Califbill" wrote:


"Tim" *wrote in message


....


On Jul 3, 4:45 pm, John H wrote:


On Sun, 3 Jul 2011 13:48:21 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:
Had some old plywood getting soft in the center, and decided to re-do
the floor. when we pulled off the old carpet which was weathered
anyhow, we found out that in the times past someone had repaired the
floor by cutting out a center section and replacing it with standard
plywood. Evidently it had held for quite a while but it's days were
numbered. besides it gave us a chance to inspect the stringers and
other bracing etc.


So, after thinking about the re-floor, we decided to not go with
standard ply because it's not weather resistant, or marine due to the
expense, so we settled on "DRYPLY"


http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=4882


A weather resistant plywood which has a *lot of characteristics of
marine plywood but is more cost effective. Like $23.00 a 3/4 sheet at
Menards, and in stock too.


Regardless. It ought to last way longer than I'll ever have the boat.


I sure hope you can post some pictures of the process. That would be
interesting.


Wish I could John, but I'll see if I can get some shots of whats going
on tomorrow...


Reply:
Make a frame to go across the gunnels to hold the boat in shape when the
flooring is removed. *The deck is a structural member and the boat will
spread when it is removed.


We didn't remove the entire floor. everything is still in place. We
simply pulled the carpet (in rags!) and saw that someone had replaced
a center section with the cheap plywood. all braces and stringers look
great, so total removal of the floor was unnecessary.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


You can't evaluate a stringer by looking at it unless it's not
encapsulated with fiberglass. *I'm betting yours are. *You have to
drill a test hole in it and see if you get mush or wood out of the
hole. *Fill the hole with epoxy and any filler afterwards.


We found that out. The last people who did the center floor did a
pretty mediocre job at best with wood strips resting on the fuel tank
and hardly touching the plywood flooring. needles to say that didn't
work, because the wood wasn't anchored and shifted, so after making
some new bracing for the floor we anchored the bracing into the
stringers with 1" stainless wood screws. They went in like iron and
nothing stripped or went in loosely. I'm confident the stringers are
fine.
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Default Re-flooring my Marquis.

On Jul 5, 7:23*pm, Tim wrote:
On Jul 5, 6:58*am, jamesgangnc wrote:





On Jul 5, 1:31*am, Tim wrote:


On Jul 4, 3:35*pm, "Califbill" wrote:


"Tim" *wrote in message


...


On Jul 3, 4:45 pm, John H wrote:


On Sun, 3 Jul 2011 13:48:21 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:
Had some old plywood getting soft in the center, and decided to re-do
the floor. when we pulled off the old carpet which was weathered
anyhow, we found out that in the times past someone had repaired the
floor by cutting out a center section and replacing it with standard
plywood. Evidently it had held for quite a while but it's days were
numbered. besides it gave us a chance to inspect the stringers and
other bracing etc.


So, after thinking about the re-floor, we decided to not go with
standard ply because it's not weather resistant, or marine due to the
expense, so we settled on "DRYPLY"


http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=4882


A weather resistant plywood which has a *lot of characteristics of
marine plywood but is more cost effective. Like $23.00 a 3/4 sheet at
Menards, and in stock too.


Regardless. It ought to last way longer than I'll ever have the boat.


I sure hope you can post some pictures of the process. That would be
interesting.


Wish I could John, but I'll see if I can get some shots of whats going
on tomorrow...


Reply:
Make a frame to go across the gunnels to hold the boat in shape when the
flooring is removed. *The deck is a structural member and the boat will
spread when it is removed.


We didn't remove the entire floor. everything is still in place. We
simply pulled the carpet (in rags!) and saw that someone had replaced
a center section with the cheap plywood. all braces and stringers look
great, so total removal of the floor was unnecessary.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


You can't evaluate a stringer by looking at it unless it's not
encapsulated with fiberglass. *I'm betting yours are. *You have to
drill a test hole in it and see if you get mush or wood out of the
hole. *Fill the hole with epoxy and any filler afterwards.


We found that out. The last people who did the center floor did a
pretty mediocre job at best with wood strips resting *on the fuel tank
and hardly touching the plywood flooring. needles to say that didn't
work, because the wood wasn't anchored and shifted, so after making
some new bracing for the floor we anchored the bracing into the
stringers with 1" stainless wood screws. They went in like iron and
nothing stripped or went in loosely. *I'm confident the stringers are
fine.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Not a valid indication. The outside fiberglass would be what the
screws were biting into the most. You're just guesing that the
stringers are fine. But I see your point on cost return. Few boats
are worth tearing out the entire floor and replacing stringers. And
much of the stringer strength is from the fiberglass, not the original
wood on boats less than 25 ft. Particularly older boats where
fiberglass was laid on pretty heavy as well. As long as it is cloth
or mat and not just sprayed on from a chopper gun. Some newer boats
use fiberglass I beams as stringers with no wood at all.
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Default Re-flooring my Marquis.

On Wed, 6 Jul 2011 06:16:43 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote:

Some newer boats
use fiberglass I beams as stringers with no wood at all.


I used to own a boat called a Winner 24. It was a cuddy cabin
runabout built in 1978. The stringers were fiberglass laid over a
foam core and were still like new when I got rid of it several years
ago.

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Tim Tim is offline
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Default Re-flooring my Marquis.

On Jul 6, 4:22*pm, Wayne B wrote:
On Wed, 6 Jul 2011 06:16:43 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
Some newer boats
use fiberglass I beams as stringers with no wood at all.


I used to own a boat called a Winner 24. *It was a *cuddy cabin
runabout built in 1978. *The stringers were fiberglass laid over a
foam core and were still like new when I got rid of it several years
ago.


I can believe it.


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Default Re-flooring my Marquis.

On Jul 6, 5:22*pm, Wayne B wrote:
On Wed, 6 Jul 2011 06:16:43 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
Some newer boats
use fiberglass I beams as stringers with no wood at all.


I used to own a boat called a Winner 24. *It was a *cuddy cabin
runabout built in 1978. *The stringers were fiberglass laid over a
foam core and were still like new when I got rid of it several years
ago.


The only purpose of the foam was to create a temporary frame for the
fiberglass to be laid up on. The foam doesn't contribute to the final
results and it doesn't matter what happens to it. The fiberglass is
essentially the stringer. In some cases with wood encapsulated
stringers you end up with the same thing. There is so much fiberglass
that it doesn't matter much what happens to the wood. Particularly on
older boats where they used to really lay on a lot of glass. The
problems come about in situations where the builder was trying to keep
the boat light and on larger boats. Fresh water boats are worse as
salt water acts as a wood preservative. And all the wood eventually
will get wet. Screws holes are the worst sources of water penetration
but polyester fiberglass is not water proof so even a perfectly
encapsulated piece of wood will eventually get wet if the outside is
routinely exposed to water. Epoxy is a far better product to use for
encapsulating wood but it costs many times what polyester resin
costs. A lot more builders today are leaving wood out entirely.
David Pascoe has a lot of great information out there on what goes
wrong with wood/fiberglass boats.
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Tim Tim is offline
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Default Re-flooring my Marquis.

On Jul 6, 8:16*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 5, 7:23*pm, Tim wrote:









On Jul 5, 6:58*am, jamesgangnc wrote:


On Jul 5, 1:31*am, Tim wrote:


On Jul 4, 3:35*pm, "Califbill" wrote:


"Tim" *wrote in message


...


On Jul 3, 4:45 pm, John H wrote:


On Sun, 3 Jul 2011 13:48:21 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:
Had some old plywood getting soft in the center, and decided to re-do
the floor. when we pulled off the old carpet which was weathered
anyhow, we found out that in the times past someone had repaired the
floor by cutting out a center section and replacing it with standard
plywood. Evidently it had held for quite a while but it's days were
numbered. besides it gave us a chance to inspect the stringers and
other bracing etc.


So, after thinking about the re-floor, we decided to not go with
standard ply because it's not weather resistant, or marine due to the
expense, so we settled on "DRYPLY"


http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=4882


A weather resistant plywood which has a *lot of characteristics of
marine plywood but is more cost effective. Like $23.00 a 3/4 sheet at
Menards, and in stock too.


Regardless. It ought to last way longer than I'll ever have the boat.


I sure hope you can post some pictures of the process. That would be
interesting.


Wish I could John, but I'll see if I can get some shots of whats going
on tomorrow...


Reply:
Make a frame to go across the gunnels to hold the boat in shape when the
flooring is removed. *The deck is a structural member and the boat will
spread when it is removed.


We didn't remove the entire floor. everything is still in place. We
simply pulled the carpet (in rags!) and saw that someone had replaced
a center section with the cheap plywood. all braces and stringers look
great, so total removal of the floor was unnecessary.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


You can't evaluate a stringer by looking at it unless it's not
encapsulated with fiberglass. *I'm betting yours are. *You have to
drill a test hole in it and see if you get mush or wood out of the
hole. *Fill the hole with epoxy and any filler afterwards.


We found that out. The last people who did the center floor did a
pretty mediocre job at best with wood strips resting *on the fuel tank
and hardly touching the plywood flooring. needles to say that didn't
work, because the wood wasn't anchored and shifted, so after making
some new bracing for the floor we anchored the bracing into the
stringers with 1" stainless wood screws. They went in like iron and
nothing stripped or went in loosely. *I'm confident the stringers are
fine.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Not a valid indication. *The outside fiberglass would be what the
screws were biting into the most. *You're just guesing that the
stringers are fine. *But I see your point on cost return. *Few boats
are worth tearing out the entire floor and replacing stringers. *And
much of the stringer strength is from the fiberglass, not the original
wood on boats less than 25 ft. *Particularly older boats where
fiberglass was laid on pretty heavy as well. *As long as it is cloth
or mat and not just sprayed on from a chopper gun. *Some newer boats
use fiberglass I beams as stringers with no wood at all.


This Marquis was a well built boat in it's day and was well
maintained, but not perfectly. I will say in it's defense that it
wasn't left out in the weather. It was used then trailered out and
kept in shelter. The original interior wasn't weather rotten or
dilapidated. The center floor was soft due to being replaced
amateurishly with cheap plywood, There was a generously heavy coating
of woven fiberglass on the stringers. from past experience doing wood
work on my old garage, when I ran screws into the wood and the screws
went in too easily, spun out auguring sawdust as they went, that meant
the wood was soft and/or rotten. Not these. It really is solid. Or at
least solid enough.

The boat hull should last me several years or until I decide to do
something different. and besides. If it played out, I could still
salvage the 305 GM, alpha 1 and trailer and still get more for the
pieces than I paid for the whole rig.
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