best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On 8/29/10 11:28 PM, Katie Ohara wrote:
On Aug 29, 7:57 pm, wrote:
On Aug 29, 9:40 pm, wrote:



On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 17:25:45 -0400, wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, wrote:

of course, if the plate were wood instead of metal, then it would be a
whole different ballgame

Probable wood or sheet metal screws screwed right into the fiberglass?
For important things (anything that you might want to keep) like lifeline
stanctions, the common practice is to through bolt the fixture. Probably be
just fine using fender washer on the inside, at least it would be a lot more
substantial than the wood screws.
Figerglass is brittle and srewing into it causes it to chip out as the screw
goes in. If you're going to do it that way, definitely use 5200, maybe that
will keep things together.

haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions
are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the
fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings!

My bow railing took a bad hit from an empty 55 gal steel drum in my
warehouse, and it bent the rail tubing really bad and broke some of
the mounts. I figured it would cost a small fortune to restore the
large loop-type railing so I took it off. I was amazed that the long
wood screws that held the mounts were drilled right though the
fiberglass with no backing. Most of the screws came out rather tough
too. I was really surprised how that apparently with no other bonding
agents holding the screws in, how stubborn those fasteners were
holding that tight.

Frogwatch here (yeah I know, I said I was gone but this is a real
boating topic).
How thick is this glass? Is it cored?
I would try to use backing plates. I make mine from G10 (glass/
plastic composite) that can be easily cut with hand tools and is so
strong it will outlast the rest of the boat. Get it from McMaster
Carr. As the area is hard to get to, you might want to epoxy the nuts
into the G10 so they will not turn as you tighten the bolts. Make the
bolt holes oversized to allow ease of getting the bolts to the G10
plate's bolts. Later, pour epoxy into the gap around the bolts.

If you really cannot get to the underside.
Look thru the McMaster Carr site for molly-type bolts in stainless.
Drill your bolt holes large enough and put in the molly bolts thru the
holes , tighten and then pour epoxy thickened with glass fiber around
the bolts.

I LOVE McMaster Carr and order about $200/wk from them for work. I
can use their catalogue as "interesting reading" just to find weird
stuff I never knew existed. Next day delivery too.


He's "outa here" but he isn't... :)

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On Aug 30, 5:01*am, bpuharic wrote:
On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 20:28:45 -0700 (PDT), Katie Ohara



wrote:
On Aug 29, 7:57*pm, Tim wrote:
On Aug 29, 9:40*pm, bpuharic wrote:

haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions
are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the
fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings!

My bow railing took a bad hit from an empty 55 gal steel drum in my
warehouse, and it bent the rail tubing really bad and broke some of
the mounts. I figured it would cost a small fortune to restore the
large loop-type railing so I took it off. I was amazed *that the long
wood *screws that held the mounts were drilled right though the
fiberglass with no backing. Most of the screws came out rather tough
too. *I was really surprised how that apparently with no other bonding
agents *holding the screws in, how stubborn those fasteners were
holding that tight.

Frogwatch here (yeah I know, I said I was gone but this is a real
boating topic).
How thick is this glass? *Is it cored?
I would try to use backing plates. *I make mine from G10 (glass/
plastic composite) that can be easily cut with hand tools and is so
strong it will outlast the rest of the boat. *Get it from McMaster
Carr. *As the area is hard to get to, you might want to epoxy the nuts
into the G10 so they will not turn as you tighten the bolts. *Make the
bolt holes oversized to allow ease of getting the bolts to the G10
plate's bolts. *Later, pour epoxy into the gap around the bolts.

If you really cannot get to the underside.
Look thru the McMaster Carr site for molly-type bolts in stainless.
Drill your bolt holes large enough and put in the molly bolts thru the
holes , tighten and then pour epoxy thickened with glass fiber around
the bolts.

I LOVE McMaster Carr and order about $200/wk from them for work. *I
can use their catalogue as "interesting reading" just to find weird
stuff I never knew existed. *Next day delivery too.

yeah i'm an engineer for a matierials science company and MC is the
bible of the company...kind of like 'acme' was to wiley coyote...

I'd say that's a great analogy.

I just combed through the http://www.mcmaster.com website, and it
looks to me that if they don't have it, it never was made.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

"Secular Humanist" wrote in message
...
On 8/29/10 11:28 PM, Katie Ohara wrote:
On Aug 29, 7:57 pm, wrote:
On Aug 29, 9:40 pm, wrote:



On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 17:25:45 -0400, wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, wrote:

of course, if the plate were wood instead of metal, then it would be
a
whole different ballgame

Probable wood or sheet metal screws screwed right into the fiberglass?
For important things (anything that you might want to keep) like
lifeline
stanctions, the common practice is to through bolt the fixture.
Probably be
just fine using fender washer on the inside, at least it would be a
lot more
substantial than the wood screws.
Figerglass is brittle and srewing into it causes it to chip out as the
screw
goes in. If you're going to do it that way, definitely use 5200, maybe
that
will keep things together.

haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions
are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the
fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings!

My bow railing took a bad hit from an empty 55 gal steel drum in my
warehouse, and it bent the rail tubing really bad and broke some of
the mounts. I figured it would cost a small fortune to restore the
large loop-type railing so I took it off. I was amazed that the long
wood screws that held the mounts were drilled right though the
fiberglass with no backing. Most of the screws came out rather tough
too. I was really surprised how that apparently with no other bonding
agents holding the screws in, how stubborn those fasteners were
holding that tight.

Frogwatch here (yeah I know, I said I was gone but this is a real
boating topic).
How thick is this glass? Is it cored?
I would try to use backing plates. I make mine from G10 (glass/
plastic composite) that can be easily cut with hand tools and is so
strong it will outlast the rest of the boat. Get it from McMaster
Carr. As the area is hard to get to, you might want to epoxy the nuts
into the G10 so they will not turn as you tighten the bolts. Make the
bolt holes oversized to allow ease of getting the bolts to the G10
plate's bolts. Later, pour epoxy into the gap around the bolts.

If you really cannot get to the underside.
Look thru the McMaster Carr site for molly-type bolts in stainless.
Drill your bolt holes large enough and put in the molly bolts thru the
holes , tighten and then pour epoxy thickened with glass fiber around
the bolts.

I LOVE McMaster Carr and order about $200/wk from them for work. I
can use their catalogue as "interesting reading" just to find weird
stuff I never knew existed. Next day delivery too.


He's "outa here" but he isn't... :)

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

This place is like The Eagles 'Hotel California'....................
"Last thing I remember, I was
Running for the door
I had to find the passage back
To the place I was before
'Relax,' said the night man,
'We are programmed to receive.
You can check-out any time you like,
But you can never leave!'"

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On Aug 30, 5:01*am, bpuharic wrote:
On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 20:28:45 -0700 (PDT), Katie Ohara



wrote:
On Aug 29, 7:57*pm, Tim wrote:
On Aug 29, 9:40*pm, bpuharic wrote:

haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions
are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the
fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings!

My bow railing took a bad hit from an empty 55 gal steel drum in my
warehouse, and it bent the rail tubing really bad and broke some of
the mounts. I figured it would cost a small fortune to restore the
large loop-type railing so I took it off. I was amazed *that the long
wood *screws that held the mounts were drilled right though the
fiberglass with no backing. Most of the screws came out rather tough
too. *I was really surprised how that apparently with no other bonding
agents *holding the screws in, how stubborn those fasteners were
holding that tight.

Frogwatch here (yeah I know, I said I was gone but this is a real
boating topic).
How thick is this glass? *Is it cored?
I would try to use backing plates. *I make mine from G10 (glass/
plastic composite) that can be easily cut with hand tools and is so
strong it will outlast the rest of the boat. *Get it from McMaster
Carr. *As the area is hard to get to, you might want to epoxy the nuts
into the G10 so they will not turn as you tighten the bolts. *Make the
bolt holes oversized to allow ease of getting the bolts to the G10
plate's bolts. *Later, pour epoxy into the gap around the bolts.

If you really cannot get to the underside.
Look thru the McMaster Carr site for molly-type bolts in stainless.
Drill your bolt holes large enough and put in the molly bolts thru the
holes , tighten and then pour epoxy thickened with glass fiber around
the bolts.

I LOVE McMaster Carr and order about $200/wk from them for work. *I
can use their catalogue as "interesting reading" just to find weird
stuff I never knew existed. *Next day delivery too.

yeah i'm an engineer for a matierials science company and MC is the
bible of the company...kind of like 'acme' was to wiley coyote...

Bob, when I was a kid back in the '60's my dad did some amateur work
on electronics, and I remember combing though his giant Burnstein and
Applbie (B&A) Catalog.

and I knew they had enough of the proper components that if I could
figure it out, I could build a 'death ray' gun right out of their
catalog.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

bpuharic wrote:
On Mon, 30 Aug 2010 05:13:11 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:


On Aug 30, 5:01 am, wrote:

On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 20:28:45 -0700 (PDT), Katie Ohara


yeah i'm an engineer for a matierials science company and MC is the
bible of the company...kind of like 'acme' was to wiley coyote...

Bob, when I was a kid back in the '60's my dad did some amateur work
on electronics, and I remember combing though his giant Burnstein and
Applbie (B&A) Catalog.

and I knew they had enough of the proper components that if I could
figure it out, I could build a 'death ray' gun right out of their
catalog.

i was hoping for a time machine...the knees and eyes need some tuning
up...if i could get 20 years...


Your brain is a bit off, too.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 19:17:16 -0400, Larry
wrote:

bpuharic wrote:
On Mon, 30 Aug 2010 05:13:11 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:


On Aug 30, 5:01 am, wrote:

On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 20:28:45 -0700 (PDT), Katie Ohara


yeah i'm an engineer for a matierials science company and MC is the
bible of the company...kind of like 'acme' was to wiley coyote...

Bob, when I was a kid back in the '60's my dad did some amateur work
on electronics, and I remember combing though his giant Burnstein and
Applbie (B&A) Catalog.

and I knew they had enough of the proper components that if I could
figure it out, I could build a 'death ray' gun right out of their
catalog.

i was hoping for a time machine...the knees and eyes need some tuning
up...if i could get 20 years...


Your brain is a bit off, too.

why? am i quoting rush limpballs as if he makes sense?