best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:



Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills.
Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock.
I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch.
Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work.
But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern.
I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts.
Non-expanding type.
Examples here.

as i think about the stanchions, i'm not sure there was a backing
plate. 2 things tell me this:

1. no damage to the deck around the stanchions at all
2. the threads on the screws weren't stripped

if there was a backing plate, (metal) either the whole plate should
have been pulled through the deck or the screws should have been
stripped when they were pulled out of the backing plate.

of course, if the plate were wood instead of metal, then it would be a
whole different ballgame

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

"spud" Mr wrote in message
...
"YukonBound" wrote in message
...


"Secular Humanist" wrote in message
...
On 8/29/10 11:18 AM, YukonBound wrote:


"Jim" wrote in message
...
bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:

Larry wrote:
bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where
they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing
them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is
damn
near impossible

How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge.
Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.

Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the
hills.
Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock.
I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch.
Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work.
But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern.
I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts.
Non-expanding type.
Examples here.

thanks jim, looks like an interesting option

Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted
lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were
used
when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build
with one.
Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not.
Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality"
boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as
"backplates."
I don't stand behind any advice I give.
Make sure your deck is sound.
Stay safe.
Use your best judgement.
See this article our old pal Norm wrote,
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php

Jim - Everybody CYA.



When I purchased my 18 year old sailboat, the owner included the
stanchions and lifelines. It was an extra that had never been
installed.
I used a 1/4" aluminum plate backing to make sure the stanchions were
good & strong.


I have a friend I sometimes take out on my Parker. He suffered a serious
leg injury some years ago and has never really recovered, despite many
trips to various doctors. Anyway, because of a weak leg, he has trouble
using the folding boarding ladder/platform at the back of the boat after
a
swim. So I ordered a stainless "handle" from Parker to install on the
transom above the boarding ladder. As soon as it arrives at the dealer,
I'll be taking it to the welding shop next door so the guys there can
measure, cut and drill a backing plate for me. These run about $10 for a
bit of stainless scrap cut and drilled to size.

I had gone to a metal shop and had them cut a 4" x 36" strip of 1/8"
stainless steel for that purpose, but I found it too hard to cut & drill.
(I ended up getting a drill press for a birthday) Anyway, I found the
1/4"
aluminum easier to deal with.


Most people do. !/4" alum is plenty for most applications. Where will you
put the drill press? In your front room?

You're getting me mixed up with 'The Freak'.
I received it a few years ago and it sits on my work bench in the basement.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On 8/29/10 4:34 PM, YukonBound wrote:


"spud" Mr wrote in message


Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted
lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were
used
when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build
with one.
Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not.
Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality"


Most people do. !/4" alum is plenty for most applications. Where will
you put the drill press? In your front room?

You're getting me mixed up with 'The Freak'.
I received it a few years ago and it sits on my work bench in the basement.


Little man tosk keeps his drill press in the kitchen, next to the toaster.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

"bpuharic" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:



Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills.
Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock.
I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch.
Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work.
But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern.
I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts.
Non-expanding type.
Examples here.

as i think about the stanchions, i'm not sure there was a backing
plate. 2 things tell me this:

1. no damage to the deck around the stanchions at all
2. the threads on the screws weren't stripped

if there was a backing plate, (metal) either the whole plate should
have been pulled through the deck or the screws should have been
stripped when they were pulled out of the backing plate.

of course, if the plate were wood instead of metal, then it would be a
whole different ballgame

Probable wood or sheet metal screws screwed right into the fiberglass?
For important things (anything that you might want to keep) like lifeline
stanctions, the common practice is to through bolt the fixture. Probably be
just fine using fender washer on the inside, at least it would be a lot more
substantial than the wood screws.
Figerglass is brittle and srewing into it causes it to chip out as the screw
goes in. If you're going to do it that way, definitely use 5200, maybe that
will keep things together.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

"Secular Humanist" wrote in message
...
On 8/29/10 4:34 PM, YukonBound wrote:


"spud" Mr wrote in message


Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted
lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were
used
when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't
build
with one.
Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not.
Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality"


Most people do. !/4" alum is plenty for most applications. Where will
you put the drill press? In your front room?

You're getting me mixed up with 'The Freak'.
I received it a few years ago and it sits on my work bench in the
basement.


Little man tosk keeps his drill press in the kitchen, next to the toaster.


You have to wonder if every meal prepared there is permeated with a greasy,
oily flavour.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On 8/29/10 5:26 PM, YukonBound wrote:


"Secular Humanist" wrote in message
...
On 8/29/10 4:34 PM, YukonBound wrote:


"spud" Mr wrote in message


Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted
lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were
used
when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't
build
with one.
Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or
not.
Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality"


Most people do. !/4" alum is plenty for most applications. Where will
you put the drill press? In your front room?

You're getting me mixed up with 'The Freak'.
I received it a few years ago and it sits on my work bench in the
basement.


Little man tosk keeps his drill press in the kitchen, next to the
toaster.


You have to wonder if every meal prepared there is permeated with a
greasy, oily flavour.


No need to wonder...just look at those photos he posts...a family of
grease.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 17:25:45 -0400, "mmc" wrote:


"bpuharic" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:


of course, if the plate were wood instead of metal, then it would be a
whole different ballgame

Probable wood or sheet metal screws screwed right into the fiberglass?
For important things (anything that you might want to keep) like lifeline
stanctions, the common practice is to through bolt the fixture. Probably be
just fine using fender washer on the inside, at least it would be a lot more
substantial than the wood screws.
Figerglass is brittle and srewing into it causes it to chip out as the screw
goes in. If you're going to do it that way, definitely use 5200, maybe that
will keep things together.

haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions
are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the
fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings!

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On Aug 29, 9:40*pm, bpuharic wrote:
On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 17:25:45 -0400, "mmc" wrote:

"bpuharic" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:

of course, if the plate were wood instead of metal, then it would be a
whole different ballgame

Probable wood or sheet metal screws screwed right into the fiberglass?
For important things (anything that you might want to keep) like lifeline
stanctions, the common practice is to through bolt the fixture. Probably be
just fine using fender washer on the inside, at least it would be a lot more
substantial than the wood screws.
Figerglass is brittle and srewing into it causes it to chip out as the screw
goes in. If you're going to do it that way, definitely use 5200, maybe that
will keep things together.

haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions
are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the
fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings!



My bow railing took a bad hit from an empty 55 gal steel drum in my
warehouse, and it bent the rail tubing really bad and broke some of
the mounts. I figured it would cost a small fortune to restore the
large loop-type railing so I took it off. I was amazed that the long
wood screws that held the mounts were drilled right though the
fiberglass with no backing. Most of the screws came out rather tough
too. I was really surprised how that apparently with no other bonding
agents holding the screws in, how stubborn those fasteners were
holding that tight.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On Aug 29, 7:57*pm, Tim wrote:
On Aug 29, 9:40*pm, bpuharic wrote:



On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 17:25:45 -0400, "mmc" wrote:

"bpuharic" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:

of course, if the plate were wood instead of metal, then it would be a
whole different ballgame

Probable wood or sheet metal screws screwed right into the fiberglass?
For important things (anything that you might want to keep) like lifeline
stanctions, the common practice is to through bolt the fixture. Probably be
just fine using fender washer on the inside, at least it would be a lot more
substantial than the wood screws.
Figerglass is brittle and srewing into it causes it to chip out as the screw
goes in. If you're going to do it that way, definitely use 5200, maybe that
will keep things together.

haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions
are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the
fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings!

My bow railing took a bad hit from an empty 55 gal steel drum in my
warehouse, and it bent the rail tubing really bad and broke some of
the mounts. I figured it would cost a small fortune to restore the
large loop-type railing so I took it off. I was amazed *that the long
wood *screws that held the mounts were drilled right though the
fiberglass with no backing. Most of the screws came out rather tough
too. *I was really surprised how that apparently with no other bonding
agents *holding the screws in, how stubborn those fasteners were
holding that tight.

Frogwatch here (yeah I know, I said I was gone but this is a real
boating topic).
How thick is this glass? Is it cored?
I would try to use backing plates. I make mine from G10 (glass/
plastic composite) that can be easily cut with hand tools and is so
strong it will outlast the rest of the boat. Get it from McMaster
Carr. As the area is hard to get to, you might want to epoxy the nuts
into the G10 so they will not turn as you tighten the bolts. Make the
bolt holes oversized to allow ease of getting the bolts to the G10
plate's bolts. Later, pour epoxy into the gap around the bolts.

If you really cannot get to the underside.
Look thru the McMaster Carr site for molly-type bolts in stainless.
Drill your bolt holes large enough and put in the molly bolts thru the
holes , tighten and then pour epoxy thickened with glass fiber around
the bolts.

I LOVE McMaster Carr and order about $200/wk from them for work. I
can use their catalogue as "interesting reading" just to find weird
stuff I never knew existed. Next day delivery too.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 20:28:45 -0700 (PDT), Katie Ohara
wrote:

On Aug 29, 7:57*pm, Tim wrote:
On Aug 29, 9:40*pm, bpuharic wrote:


haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions
are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the
fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings!

My bow railing took a bad hit from an empty 55 gal steel drum in my
warehouse, and it bent the rail tubing really bad and broke some of
the mounts. I figured it would cost a small fortune to restore the
large loop-type railing so I took it off. I was amazed *that the long
wood *screws that held the mounts were drilled right though the
fiberglass with no backing. Most of the screws came out rather tough
too. *I was really surprised how that apparently with no other bonding
agents *holding the screws in, how stubborn those fasteners were
holding that tight.

Frogwatch here (yeah I know, I said I was gone but this is a real
boating topic).
How thick is this glass? Is it cored?
I would try to use backing plates. I make mine from G10 (glass/
plastic composite) that can be easily cut with hand tools and is so
strong it will outlast the rest of the boat. Get it from McMaster
Carr. As the area is hard to get to, you might want to epoxy the nuts
into the G10 so they will not turn as you tighten the bolts. Make the
bolt holes oversized to allow ease of getting the bolts to the G10
plate's bolts. Later, pour epoxy into the gap around the bolts.

If you really cannot get to the underside.
Look thru the McMaster Carr site for molly-type bolts in stainless.
Drill your bolt holes large enough and put in the molly bolts thru the
holes , tighten and then pour epoxy thickened with glass fiber around
the bolts.

I LOVE McMaster Carr and order about $200/wk from them for work. I
can use their catalogue as "interesting reading" just to find weird
stuff I never knew existed. Next day delivery too.

yeah i'm an engineer for a matierials science company and MC is the
bible of the company...kind of like 'acme' was to wiley coyote...