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best way to reseat stanchion posts
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On Aug 28, 2:24*pm, bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. * was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. * any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible Bob, I'm not really clear on what the damage is, but http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html boasts that some of their product fillers cure so hard you can drill and tap it for screws etc. That might be the ticket for filling and re-drilling holes. At least it's worth investigating. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 13:09:58 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote: On Aug 28, 2:24*pm, bpuharic wrote: coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. * was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. * any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible Bob, I'm not really clear on what the damage is, but http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html boasts that some of their product fillers cure so hard you can drill and tap it for screws etc. That might be the ticket for filling and re-drilling holes. At least it's worth investigating. that looks like it might be just the ticket. holes in the deck were stripped, so backfilling them with this and letting it dry might work Thanks as always Tim...you're the miracle man! I'll let you know how it works |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 21:40:39 -0400, Larry
wrote: bpuharic wrote: coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy. i thought about wood, but will probably go with the epoxy. holes aren't big...they're the standard screws used to hold a stanchion post to the deck. no sign of damage to the deck itself so i assume the stanchion lifted straight up and pulled out the screws |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 21:40:39 -0400, wrote: bpuharic wrote: coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy. i thought about wood, but will probably go with the epoxy. holes aren't big...they're the standard screws used to hold a stanchion post to the deck. no sign of damage to the deck itself so i assume the stanchion lifted straight up and pulled out the screws Do you think you have rotting wood around the holes? Epoxy will only help if the substrate around it is sound. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:09:49 -0400, Larry
wrote: bpuharic wrote: On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 21:40:39 -0400, wrote: bpuharic wrote: coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy. i thought about wood, but will probably go with the epoxy. holes aren't big...they're the standard screws used to hold a stanchion post to the deck. no sign of damage to the deck itself so i assume the stanchion lifted straight up and pulled out the screws Do you think you have rotting wood around the holes? Epoxy will only help if the substrate around it is sound. no, i think the substrate is sound. it's just the force of the collision with the piling lifted the railing away from the deck. the piling got under the rail when the boat got pushed into it by the wind. so the deck is sound |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:09:49 -0400, wrote: bpuharic wrote: On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 21:40:39 -0400, wrote: bpuharic wrote: coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy. i thought about wood, but will probably go with the epoxy. holes aren't big...they're the standard screws used to hold a stanchion post to the deck. no sign of damage to the deck itself so i assume the stanchion lifted straight up and pulled out the screws Do you think you have rotting wood around the holes? Epoxy will only help if the substrate around it is sound. no, i think the substrate is sound. it's just the force of the collision with the piling lifted the railing away from the deck. the piling got under the rail when the boat got pushed into it by the wind. so the deck is sound In that case, a good epoxy will be fine. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
Larry wrote:
bpuharic wrote: coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy. Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills. Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock. I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch. Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work. But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern. I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts. Non-expanding type. Examples here. http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-inserts/=8lwkxs I'd use one the press-fit SS. Spiral looks good for this. They go to 3/8" internal, which is probably a stronger bolt than you have on the Tolly. Are the old ones 1/4"? Tape your drill bit to get the selected depth to set the insert flush with deck. Drill holes 1/16" oversize to allow for epoxy. Test each hole depth by dropping in the insert dry. Then epoxy the insert and tap in. Let the epoxy cure. Dope up the bolts well with a hearty teflon paste. For 3/8" 16tpi 18-8 stainless torque to 236 inch pounds. If you're using different bolts, look here for the spec, http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/torque3.htm Don't even worry about wet vs dry torque. Doesn't matter. If you're competent with fasteners, you don't need a torque wrench for this, but I don't know much about you - except that you seem to be a middle-class type guy. If the boat ever shakes the bolts loose replace the teflon with Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242. Put a light bead of silicone caulk around the outer edges of the stanchion base before you bolt it in. Wipe away excess after the stanchion is tight. Wipe ALL excess - it's not paintable This is purely to seal salt away from the inserts. Don't even think about using any 3M 42-5200. The stanchion is held mechanically to the deck by the bolts/inserts. You might find some inserts locally. West Marine carries Fasco inserts. Cost way too much. Give some thought to what you're doing and don't go off half-cocked. Saves time in the end. Jim - If you do the job, do it right. Your life might count on it. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On Aug 28, 9:54*pm, Jim wrote:
Don't even think about using any 3M 42-5200. Jim have you had bad experience with 5200 ? Den 48YF www.densnet.net |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:
Larry wrote: bpuharic wrote: coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy. Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills. Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock. I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch. Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work. But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern. I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts. Non-expanding type. Examples here. thanks jim, looks like an interesting option |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
den wrote:
On Aug 28, 9:54 pm, Jim wrote: Don't even think about using any 3M 42-5200. Jim have you had bad experience with 5200 ? Den 48YF www.densnet.net No. It's good for gluing down consoles, rod holders, etc. It's a good thing when you can avoid drilling fastener holes in the hull. But it doesn't come loose. Has to be cut and sanded off. Not meant for setting stanchions, where the bolts/screws provide the strength. Jim - Rough up a slick plastic. Makes a better bond with the 5200. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote: Larry wrote: bpuharic wrote: coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy. Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills. Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock. I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch. Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work. But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern. I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts. Non-expanding type. Examples here. thanks jim, looks like an interesting option Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build with one. Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not. Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality" boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as "backplates." I don't stand behind any advice I give. Make sure your deck is sound. Stay safe. Use your best judgement. See this article our old pal Norm wrote, http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php Jim - Everybody CYA. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On 8/29/10 9:18 AM, Jim wrote:
bpuharic wrote: On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote: Larry wrote: bpuharic wrote: coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy. Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills. Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock. I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch. Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work. But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern. I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts. Non-expanding type. Examples here. thanks jim, looks like an interesting option Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build with one. Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not. Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality" boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as "backplates." I don't stand behind any advice I give. Make sure your deck is sound. Stay safe. Use your best judgement. See this article our old pal Norm wrote, http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php Jim - Everybody CYA. Holy smokes...a *useful* post from our old pal, flajim! Backing plates are the way to go, and a good way to get them is to visit a custom welding shop and have them cut up and drilled from the shop's stainless scrap. These shops aren't hard to find. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
"Jim" wrote in message ... bpuharic wrote: On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote: Larry wrote: bpuharic wrote: coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy. Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills. Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock. I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch. Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work. But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern. I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts. Non-expanding type. Examples here. thanks jim, looks like an interesting option Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build with one. Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not. Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality" boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as "backplates." I don't stand behind any advice I give. Make sure your deck is sound. Stay safe. Use your best judgement. See this article our old pal Norm wrote, http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php Jim - Everybody CYA. When I purchased my 18 year old sailboat, the owner included the stanchions and lifelines. It was an extra that had never been installed. I used a 1/4" aluminum plate backing to make sure the stanchions were good & strong. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On 8/29/10 11:18 AM, YukonBound wrote:
"Jim" wrote in message ... bpuharic wrote: On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote: Larry wrote: bpuharic wrote: coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy. Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills. Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock. I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch. Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work. But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern. I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts. Non-expanding type. Examples here. thanks jim, looks like an interesting option Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build with one. Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not. Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality" boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as "backplates." I don't stand behind any advice I give. Make sure your deck is sound. Stay safe. Use your best judgement. See this article our old pal Norm wrote, http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php Jim - Everybody CYA. When I purchased my 18 year old sailboat, the owner included the stanchions and lifelines. It was an extra that had never been installed. I used a 1/4" aluminum plate backing to make sure the stanchions were good & strong. I have a friend I sometimes take out on my Parker. He suffered a serious leg injury some years ago and has never really recovered, despite many trips to various doctors. Anyway, because of a weak leg, he has trouble using the folding boarding ladder/platform at the back of the boat after a swim. So I ordered a stainless "handle" from Parker to install on the transom above the boarding ladder. As soon as it arrives at the dealer, I'll be taking it to the welding shop next door so the guys there can measure, cut and drill a backing plate for me. These run about $10 for a bit of stainless scrap cut and drilled to size. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
"Secular Humanist" wrote in message ... On 8/29/10 11:18 AM, YukonBound wrote: "Jim" wrote in message ... bpuharic wrote: On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote: Larry wrote: bpuharic wrote: coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy. Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills. Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock. I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch. Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work. But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern. I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts. Non-expanding type. Examples here. thanks jim, looks like an interesting option Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build with one. Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not. Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality" boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as "backplates." I don't stand behind any advice I give. Make sure your deck is sound. Stay safe. Use your best judgement. See this article our old pal Norm wrote, http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php Jim - Everybody CYA. When I purchased my 18 year old sailboat, the owner included the stanchions and lifelines. It was an extra that had never been installed. I used a 1/4" aluminum plate backing to make sure the stanchions were good & strong. I have a friend I sometimes take out on my Parker. He suffered a serious leg injury some years ago and has never really recovered, despite many trips to various doctors. Anyway, because of a weak leg, he has trouble using the folding boarding ladder/platform at the back of the boat after a swim. So I ordered a stainless "handle" from Parker to install on the transom above the boarding ladder. As soon as it arrives at the dealer, I'll be taking it to the welding shop next door so the guys there can measure, cut and drill a backing plate for me. These run about $10 for a bit of stainless scrap cut and drilled to size. I had gone to a metal shop and had them cut a 4" x 36" strip of 1/8" stainless steel for that purpose, but I found it too hard to cut & drill. (I ended up getting a drill press for a birthday) Anyway, I found the 1/4" aluminum easier to deal with. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On 8/29/10 11:47 AM, YukonBound wrote:
"Secular Humanist" wrote in message ... On 8/29/10 11:18 AM, YukonBound wrote: "Jim" wrote in message ... bpuharic wrote: On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote: Larry wrote: bpuharic wrote: coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy. Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills. Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock. I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch. Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work. But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern. I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts. Non-expanding type. Examples here. thanks jim, looks like an interesting option Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build with one. Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not. Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality" boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as "backplates." I don't stand behind any advice I give. Make sure your deck is sound. Stay safe. Use your best judgement. See this article our old pal Norm wrote, http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php Jim - Everybody CYA. When I purchased my 18 year old sailboat, the owner included the stanchions and lifelines. It was an extra that had never been installed. I used a 1/4" aluminum plate backing to make sure the stanchions were good & strong. I have a friend I sometimes take out on my Parker. He suffered a serious leg injury some years ago and has never really recovered, despite many trips to various doctors. Anyway, because of a weak leg, he has trouble using the folding boarding ladder/platform at the back of the boat after a swim. So I ordered a stainless "handle" from Parker to install on the transom above the boarding ladder. As soon as it arrives at the dealer, I'll be taking it to the welding shop next door so the guys there can measure, cut and drill a backing plate for me. These run about $10 for a bit of stainless scrap cut and drilled to size. I had gone to a metal shop and had them cut a 4" x 36" strip of 1/8" stainless steel for that purpose, but I found it too hard to cut & drill. (I ended up getting a drill press for a birthday) Anyway, I found the 1/4" aluminum easier to deal with. No doubt about it...which is why I have the welding shop drill it on the drill press. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
"YukonBound" wrote in message ...
"Secular Humanist" wrote in message ... On 8/29/10 11:18 AM, YukonBound wrote: "Jim" wrote in message ... bpuharic wrote: On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote: Larry wrote: bpuharic wrote: coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they hit the deck. was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws. any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn near impossible How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy. Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills. Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock. I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch. Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work. But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern. I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts. Non-expanding type. Examples here. thanks jim, looks like an interesting option Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build with one. Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not. Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality" boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as "backplates." I don't stand behind any advice I give. Make sure your deck is sound. Stay safe. Use your best judgement. See this article our old pal Norm wrote, http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php Jim - Everybody CYA. When I purchased my 18 year old sailboat, the owner included the stanchions and lifelines. It was an extra that had never been installed. I used a 1/4" aluminum plate backing to make sure the stanchions were good & strong. I have a friend I sometimes take out on my Parker. He suffered a serious leg injury some years ago and has never really recovered, despite many trips to various doctors. Anyway, because of a weak leg, he has trouble using the folding boarding ladder/platform at the back of the boat after a swim. So I ordered a stainless "handle" from Parker to install on the transom above the boarding ladder. As soon as it arrives at the dealer, I'll be taking it to the welding shop next door so the guys there can measure, cut and drill a backing plate for me. These run about $10 for a bit of stainless scrap cut and drilled to size. I had gone to a metal shop and had them cut a 4" x 36" strip of 1/8" stainless steel for that purpose, but I found it too hard to cut & drill. (I ended up getting a drill press for a birthday) Anyway, I found the 1/4" aluminum easier to deal with. Most people do. !/4" alum is plenty for most applications. Where will you put the drill press? In your front room? |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 08:18:31 -0500, Jim wrote:
bpuharic wrote: On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote: thanks jim, looks like an interesting option Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build with one. Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not. Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality" boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as "backplates." I don't stand behind any advice I give. Make sure your deck is sound. Stay safe. Use your best judgement. See this article our old pal Norm wrote, http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php Jim - Everybody CYA. i'm not even sure i can GET to the backing plates...if there are any. the area is pretty inaccessible |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:
Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills. Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock. I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch. Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work. But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern. I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts. Non-expanding type. Examples here. as i think about the stanchions, i'm not sure there was a backing plate. 2 things tell me this: 1. no damage to the deck around the stanchions at all 2. the threads on the screws weren't stripped if there was a backing plate, (metal) either the whole plate should have been pulled through the deck or the screws should have been stripped when they were pulled out of the backing plate. of course, if the plate were wood instead of metal, then it would be a whole different ballgame |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On 8/29/10 4:34 PM, YukonBound wrote:
"spud" Mr wrote in message Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build with one. Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not. Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality" Most people do. !/4" alum is plenty for most applications. Where will you put the drill press? In your front room? You're getting me mixed up with 'The Freak'. I received it a few years ago and it sits on my work bench in the basement. Little man tosk keeps his drill press in the kitchen, next to the toaster. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
"bpuharic" wrote in message ... On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote: Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills. Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock. I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch. Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work. But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern. I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts. Non-expanding type. Examples here. as i think about the stanchions, i'm not sure there was a backing plate. 2 things tell me this: 1. no damage to the deck around the stanchions at all 2. the threads on the screws weren't stripped if there was a backing plate, (metal) either the whole plate should have been pulled through the deck or the screws should have been stripped when they were pulled out of the backing plate. of course, if the plate were wood instead of metal, then it would be a whole different ballgame Probable wood or sheet metal screws screwed right into the fiberglass? For important things (anything that you might want to keep) like lifeline stanctions, the common practice is to through bolt the fixture. Probably be just fine using fender washer on the inside, at least it would be a lot more substantial than the wood screws. Figerglass is brittle and srewing into it causes it to chip out as the screw goes in. If you're going to do it that way, definitely use 5200, maybe that will keep things together. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
"Secular Humanist" wrote in message ... On 8/29/10 4:34 PM, YukonBound wrote: "spud" Mr wrote in message Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build with one. Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not. Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality" Most people do. !/4" alum is plenty for most applications. Where will you put the drill press? In your front room? You're getting me mixed up with 'The Freak'. I received it a few years ago and it sits on my work bench in the basement. Little man tosk keeps his drill press in the kitchen, next to the toaster. You have to wonder if every meal prepared there is permeated with a greasy, oily flavour. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On 8/29/10 5:26 PM, YukonBound wrote:
"Secular Humanist" wrote in message ... On 8/29/10 4:34 PM, YukonBound wrote: "spud" Mr wrote in message Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build with one. Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not. Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality" Most people do. !/4" alum is plenty for most applications. Where will you put the drill press? In your front room? You're getting me mixed up with 'The Freak'. I received it a few years ago and it sits on my work bench in the basement. Little man tosk keeps his drill press in the kitchen, next to the toaster. You have to wonder if every meal prepared there is permeated with a greasy, oily flavour. No need to wonder...just look at those photos he posts...a family of grease. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 17:25:45 -0400, "mmc" wrote:
"bpuharic" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote: of course, if the plate were wood instead of metal, then it would be a whole different ballgame Probable wood or sheet metal screws screwed right into the fiberglass? For important things (anything that you might want to keep) like lifeline stanctions, the common practice is to through bolt the fixture. Probably be just fine using fender washer on the inside, at least it would be a lot more substantial than the wood screws. Figerglass is brittle and srewing into it causes it to chip out as the screw goes in. If you're going to do it that way, definitely use 5200, maybe that will keep things together. haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings! |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On Aug 29, 9:40*pm, bpuharic wrote:
On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 17:25:45 -0400, "mmc" wrote: "bpuharic" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote: of course, if the plate were wood instead of metal, then it would be a whole different ballgame Probable wood or sheet metal screws screwed right into the fiberglass? For important things (anything that you might want to keep) like lifeline stanctions, the common practice is to through bolt the fixture. Probably be just fine using fender washer on the inside, at least it would be a lot more substantial than the wood screws. Figerglass is brittle and srewing into it causes it to chip out as the screw goes in. If you're going to do it that way, definitely use 5200, maybe that will keep things together. haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings! My bow railing took a bad hit from an empty 55 gal steel drum in my warehouse, and it bent the rail tubing really bad and broke some of the mounts. I figured it would cost a small fortune to restore the large loop-type railing so I took it off. I was amazed that the long wood screws that held the mounts were drilled right though the fiberglass with no backing. Most of the screws came out rather tough too. I was really surprised how that apparently with no other bonding agents holding the screws in, how stubborn those fasteners were holding that tight. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On Aug 29, 7:57*pm, Tim wrote:
On Aug 29, 9:40*pm, bpuharic wrote: On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 17:25:45 -0400, "mmc" wrote: "bpuharic" wrote in message .. . On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote: of course, if the plate were wood instead of metal, then it would be a whole different ballgame Probable wood or sheet metal screws screwed right into the fiberglass? For important things (anything that you might want to keep) like lifeline stanctions, the common practice is to through bolt the fixture. Probably be just fine using fender washer on the inside, at least it would be a lot more substantial than the wood screws. Figerglass is brittle and srewing into it causes it to chip out as the screw goes in. If you're going to do it that way, definitely use 5200, maybe that will keep things together. haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings! My bow railing took a bad hit from an empty 55 gal steel drum in my warehouse, and it bent the rail tubing really bad and broke some of the mounts. I figured it would cost a small fortune to restore the large loop-type railing so I took it off. I was amazed *that the long wood *screws that held the mounts were drilled right though the fiberglass with no backing. Most of the screws came out rather tough too. *I was really surprised how that apparently with no other bonding agents *holding the screws in, how stubborn those fasteners were holding that tight. Frogwatch here (yeah I know, I said I was gone but this is a real boating topic). How thick is this glass? Is it cored? I would try to use backing plates. I make mine from G10 (glass/ plastic composite) that can be easily cut with hand tools and is so strong it will outlast the rest of the boat. Get it from McMaster Carr. As the area is hard to get to, you might want to epoxy the nuts into the G10 so they will not turn as you tighten the bolts. Make the bolt holes oversized to allow ease of getting the bolts to the G10 plate's bolts. Later, pour epoxy into the gap around the bolts. If you really cannot get to the underside. Look thru the McMaster Carr site for molly-type bolts in stainless. Drill your bolt holes large enough and put in the molly bolts thru the holes , tighten and then pour epoxy thickened with glass fiber around the bolts. I LOVE McMaster Carr and order about $200/wk from them for work. I can use their catalogue as "interesting reading" just to find weird stuff I never knew existed. Next day delivery too. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 20:28:45 -0700 (PDT), Katie Ohara
wrote: On Aug 29, 7:57*pm, Tim wrote: On Aug 29, 9:40*pm, bpuharic wrote: haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings! My bow railing took a bad hit from an empty 55 gal steel drum in my warehouse, and it bent the rail tubing really bad and broke some of the mounts. I figured it would cost a small fortune to restore the large loop-type railing so I took it off. I was amazed *that the long wood *screws that held the mounts were drilled right though the fiberglass with no backing. Most of the screws came out rather tough too. *I was really surprised how that apparently with no other bonding agents *holding the screws in, how stubborn those fasteners were holding that tight. Frogwatch here (yeah I know, I said I was gone but this is a real boating topic). How thick is this glass? Is it cored? I would try to use backing plates. I make mine from G10 (glass/ plastic composite) that can be easily cut with hand tools and is so strong it will outlast the rest of the boat. Get it from McMaster Carr. As the area is hard to get to, you might want to epoxy the nuts into the G10 so they will not turn as you tighten the bolts. Make the bolt holes oversized to allow ease of getting the bolts to the G10 plate's bolts. Later, pour epoxy into the gap around the bolts. If you really cannot get to the underside. Look thru the McMaster Carr site for molly-type bolts in stainless. Drill your bolt holes large enough and put in the molly bolts thru the holes , tighten and then pour epoxy thickened with glass fiber around the bolts. I LOVE McMaster Carr and order about $200/wk from them for work. I can use their catalogue as "interesting reading" just to find weird stuff I never knew existed. Next day delivery too. yeah i'm an engineer for a matierials science company and MC is the bible of the company...kind of like 'acme' was to wiley coyote... |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On 8/29/10 11:28 PM, Katie Ohara wrote:
On Aug 29, 7:57 pm, wrote: On Aug 29, 9:40 pm, wrote: On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 17:25:45 -0400, wrote: wrote in message ... On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, wrote: of course, if the plate were wood instead of metal, then it would be a whole different ballgame Probable wood or sheet metal screws screwed right into the fiberglass? For important things (anything that you might want to keep) like lifeline stanctions, the common practice is to through bolt the fixture. Probably be just fine using fender washer on the inside, at least it would be a lot more substantial than the wood screws. Figerglass is brittle and srewing into it causes it to chip out as the screw goes in. If you're going to do it that way, definitely use 5200, maybe that will keep things together. haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings! My bow railing took a bad hit from an empty 55 gal steel drum in my warehouse, and it bent the rail tubing really bad and broke some of the mounts. I figured it would cost a small fortune to restore the large loop-type railing so I took it off. I was amazed that the long wood screws that held the mounts were drilled right though the fiberglass with no backing. Most of the screws came out rather tough too. I was really surprised how that apparently with no other bonding agents holding the screws in, how stubborn those fasteners were holding that tight. Frogwatch here (yeah I know, I said I was gone but this is a real boating topic). How thick is this glass? Is it cored? I would try to use backing plates. I make mine from G10 (glass/ plastic composite) that can be easily cut with hand tools and is so strong it will outlast the rest of the boat. Get it from McMaster Carr. As the area is hard to get to, you might want to epoxy the nuts into the G10 so they will not turn as you tighten the bolts. Make the bolt holes oversized to allow ease of getting the bolts to the G10 plate's bolts. Later, pour epoxy into the gap around the bolts. If you really cannot get to the underside. Look thru the McMaster Carr site for molly-type bolts in stainless. Drill your bolt holes large enough and put in the molly bolts thru the holes , tighten and then pour epoxy thickened with glass fiber around the bolts. I LOVE McMaster Carr and order about $200/wk from them for work. I can use their catalogue as "interesting reading" just to find weird stuff I never knew existed. Next day delivery too. He's "outa here" but he isn't... :) --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: --- |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On Aug 30, 5:01*am, bpuharic wrote:
On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 20:28:45 -0700 (PDT), Katie Ohara wrote: On Aug 29, 7:57*pm, Tim wrote: On Aug 29, 9:40*pm, bpuharic wrote: haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings! My bow railing took a bad hit from an empty 55 gal steel drum in my warehouse, and it bent the rail tubing really bad and broke some of the mounts. I figured it would cost a small fortune to restore the large loop-type railing so I took it off. I was amazed *that the long wood *screws that held the mounts were drilled right though the fiberglass with no backing. Most of the screws came out rather tough too. *I was really surprised how that apparently with no other bonding agents *holding the screws in, how stubborn those fasteners were holding that tight. Frogwatch here (yeah I know, I said I was gone but this is a real boating topic). How thick is this glass? *Is it cored? I would try to use backing plates. *I make mine from G10 (glass/ plastic composite) that can be easily cut with hand tools and is so strong it will outlast the rest of the boat. *Get it from McMaster Carr. *As the area is hard to get to, you might want to epoxy the nuts into the G10 so they will not turn as you tighten the bolts. *Make the bolt holes oversized to allow ease of getting the bolts to the G10 plate's bolts. *Later, pour epoxy into the gap around the bolts. If you really cannot get to the underside. Look thru the McMaster Carr site for molly-type bolts in stainless. Drill your bolt holes large enough and put in the molly bolts thru the holes , tighten and then pour epoxy thickened with glass fiber around the bolts. I LOVE McMaster Carr and order about $200/wk from them for work. *I can use their catalogue as "interesting reading" just to find weird stuff I never knew existed. *Next day delivery too. yeah i'm an engineer for a matierials science company and MC is the bible of the company...kind of like 'acme' was to wiley coyote... I'd say that's a great analogy. I just combed through the http://www.mcmaster.com website, and it looks to me that if they don't have it, it never was made. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
"Secular Humanist" wrote in message ... On 8/29/10 11:28 PM, Katie Ohara wrote: On Aug 29, 7:57 pm, wrote: On Aug 29, 9:40 pm, wrote: On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 17:25:45 -0400, wrote: wrote in message ... On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, wrote: of course, if the plate were wood instead of metal, then it would be a whole different ballgame Probable wood or sheet metal screws screwed right into the fiberglass? For important things (anything that you might want to keep) like lifeline stanctions, the common practice is to through bolt the fixture. Probably be just fine using fender washer on the inside, at least it would be a lot more substantial than the wood screws. Figerglass is brittle and srewing into it causes it to chip out as the screw goes in. If you're going to do it that way, definitely use 5200, maybe that will keep things together. haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings! My bow railing took a bad hit from an empty 55 gal steel drum in my warehouse, and it bent the rail tubing really bad and broke some of the mounts. I figured it would cost a small fortune to restore the large loop-type railing so I took it off. I was amazed that the long wood screws that held the mounts were drilled right though the fiberglass with no backing. Most of the screws came out rather tough too. I was really surprised how that apparently with no other bonding agents holding the screws in, how stubborn those fasteners were holding that tight. Frogwatch here (yeah I know, I said I was gone but this is a real boating topic). How thick is this glass? Is it cored? I would try to use backing plates. I make mine from G10 (glass/ plastic composite) that can be easily cut with hand tools and is so strong it will outlast the rest of the boat. Get it from McMaster Carr. As the area is hard to get to, you might want to epoxy the nuts into the G10 so they will not turn as you tighten the bolts. Make the bolt holes oversized to allow ease of getting the bolts to the G10 plate's bolts. Later, pour epoxy into the gap around the bolts. If you really cannot get to the underside. Look thru the McMaster Carr site for molly-type bolts in stainless. Drill your bolt holes large enough and put in the molly bolts thru the holes , tighten and then pour epoxy thickened with glass fiber around the bolts. I LOVE McMaster Carr and order about $200/wk from them for work. I can use their catalogue as "interesting reading" just to find weird stuff I never knew existed. Next day delivery too. He's "outa here" but he isn't... :) --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: --- This place is like The Eagles 'Hotel California'.................... "Last thing I remember, I was Running for the door I had to find the passage back To the place I was before 'Relax,' said the night man, 'We are programmed to receive. You can check-out any time you like, But you can never leave!'" |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On Aug 30, 5:01*am, bpuharic wrote:
On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 20:28:45 -0700 (PDT), Katie Ohara wrote: On Aug 29, 7:57*pm, Tim wrote: On Aug 29, 9:40*pm, bpuharic wrote: haven't tried to get underneath the decking where the stanchions are...but i think the screws were just screwed into the fiberglass...worked well enough if you stay away from pilings! My bow railing took a bad hit from an empty 55 gal steel drum in my warehouse, and it bent the rail tubing really bad and broke some of the mounts. I figured it would cost a small fortune to restore the large loop-type railing so I took it off. I was amazed *that the long wood *screws that held the mounts were drilled right though the fiberglass with no backing. Most of the screws came out rather tough too. *I was really surprised how that apparently with no other bonding agents *holding the screws in, how stubborn those fasteners were holding that tight. Frogwatch here (yeah I know, I said I was gone but this is a real boating topic). How thick is this glass? *Is it cored? I would try to use backing plates. *I make mine from G10 (glass/ plastic composite) that can be easily cut with hand tools and is so strong it will outlast the rest of the boat. *Get it from McMaster Carr. *As the area is hard to get to, you might want to epoxy the nuts into the G10 so they will not turn as you tighten the bolts. *Make the bolt holes oversized to allow ease of getting the bolts to the G10 plate's bolts. *Later, pour epoxy into the gap around the bolts. If you really cannot get to the underside. Look thru the McMaster Carr site for molly-type bolts in stainless. Drill your bolt holes large enough and put in the molly bolts thru the holes , tighten and then pour epoxy thickened with glass fiber around the bolts. I LOVE McMaster Carr and order about $200/wk from them for work. *I can use their catalogue as "interesting reading" just to find weird stuff I never knew existed. *Next day delivery too. yeah i'm an engineer for a matierials science company and MC is the bible of the company...kind of like 'acme' was to wiley coyote... Bob, when I was a kid back in the '60's my dad did some amateur work on electronics, and I remember combing though his giant Burnstein and Applbie (B&A) Catalog. and I knew they had enough of the proper components that if I could figure it out, I could build a 'death ray' gun right out of their catalog. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
bpuharic wrote:
On Mon, 30 Aug 2010 05:13:11 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Aug 30, 5:01 am, wrote: On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 20:28:45 -0700 (PDT), Katie Ohara yeah i'm an engineer for a matierials science company and MC is the bible of the company...kind of like 'acme' was to wiley coyote... Bob, when I was a kid back in the '60's my dad did some amateur work on electronics, and I remember combing though his giant Burnstein and Applbie (B&A) Catalog. and I knew they had enough of the proper components that if I could figure it out, I could build a 'death ray' gun right out of their catalog. i was hoping for a time machine...the knees and eyes need some tuning up...if i could get 20 years... Your brain is a bit off, too. |
best way to reseat stanchion posts
On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 19:17:16 -0400, Larry
wrote: bpuharic wrote: On Mon, 30 Aug 2010 05:13:11 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Aug 30, 5:01 am, wrote: On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 20:28:45 -0700 (PDT), Katie Ohara yeah i'm an engineer for a matierials science company and MC is the bible of the company...kind of like 'acme' was to wiley coyote... Bob, when I was a kid back in the '60's my dad did some amateur work on electronics, and I remember combing though his giant Burnstein and Applbie (B&A) Catalog. and I knew they had enough of the proper components that if I could figure it out, I could build a 'death ray' gun right out of their catalog. i was hoping for a time machine...the knees and eyes need some tuning up...if i could get 20 years... Your brain is a bit off, too. why? am i quoting rush limpballs as if he makes sense? |
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