best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:

Larry wrote:
bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn
near impossible

How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post
a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.


Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills.
Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock.
I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch.
Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work.
But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern.
I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts.
Non-expanding type.
Examples here.

thanks jim, looks like an interesting option

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

den wrote:
On Aug 28, 9:54 pm, Jim wrote:

Don't even think about using any 3M 42-5200.

Jim have you had bad experience with 5200 ?

Den 48YF www.densnet.net


No. It's good for gluing down consoles, rod holders, etc.
It's a good thing when you can avoid drilling fastener holes in the hull.
But it doesn't come loose. Has to be cut and sanded off.
Not meant for setting stanchions, where the bolts/screws provide the
strength.

Jim - Rough up a slick plastic. Makes a better bond with the 5200.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:

Larry wrote:
bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn
near impossible

How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge. Post
a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.

Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills.
Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock.
I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch.
Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work.
But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern.
I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts.
Non-expanding type.
Examples here.

thanks jim, looks like an interesting option

Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted
lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used
when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build
with one.
Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not.
Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality"
boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as "backplates."
I don't stand behind any advice I give.
Make sure your deck is sound.
Stay safe.
Use your best judgement.
See this article our old pal Norm wrote,
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php

Jim - Everybody CYA.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On 8/29/10 9:18 AM, Jim wrote:
bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:

Larry wrote:
bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn
near impossible
How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge.
Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.

Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills.
Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock.
I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch.
Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work.
But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern.
I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts.
Non-expanding type.
Examples here.

thanks jim, looks like an interesting option

Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted
lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used
when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build
with one.
Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not.
Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality"
boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as
"backplates."
I don't stand behind any advice I give.
Make sure your deck is sound.
Stay safe.
Use your best judgement.
See this article our old pal Norm wrote,
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php

Jim - Everybody CYA.




Holy smokes...a *useful* post from our old pal, flajim!

Backing plates are the way to go, and a good way to get them is to visit
a custom welding shop and have them cut up and drilled from the shop's
stainless scrap. These shops aren't hard to find.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

"Jim" wrote in message
...
bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:

Larry wrote:
bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn
near impossible

How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge.
Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.

Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills.
Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock.
I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch.
Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work.
But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern.
I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts.
Non-expanding type.
Examples here.

thanks jim, looks like an interesting option

Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted
lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used
when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build
with one.
Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not.
Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality"
boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as
"backplates."
I don't stand behind any advice I give.
Make sure your deck is sound.
Stay safe.
Use your best judgement.
See this article our old pal Norm wrote,
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php

Jim - Everybody CYA.



When I purchased my 18 year old sailboat, the owner included the stanchions
and lifelines. It was an extra that had never been installed.
I used a 1/4" aluminum plate backing to make sure the stanchions were good &
strong.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On 8/29/10 11:18 AM, YukonBound wrote:


"Jim" wrote in message
...
bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:

Larry wrote:
bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn
near impossible

How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge.
Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.

Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills.
Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock.
I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch.
Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work.
But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern.
I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts.
Non-expanding type.
Examples here.

thanks jim, looks like an interesting option

Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted
lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used
when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build
with one.
Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not.
Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality"
boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as
"backplates."
I don't stand behind any advice I give.
Make sure your deck is sound.
Stay safe.
Use your best judgement.
See this article our old pal Norm wrote,
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php

Jim - Everybody CYA.



When I purchased my 18 year old sailboat, the owner included the
stanchions and lifelines. It was an extra that had never been installed.
I used a 1/4" aluminum plate backing to make sure the stanchions were
good & strong.


I have a friend I sometimes take out on my Parker. He suffered a serious
leg injury some years ago and has never really recovered, despite many
trips to various doctors. Anyway, because of a weak leg, he has trouble
using the folding boarding ladder/platform at the back of the boat after
a swim. So I ordered a stainless "handle" from Parker to install on the
transom above the boarding ladder. As soon as it arrives at the dealer,
I'll be taking it to the welding shop next door so the guys there can
measure, cut and drill a backing plate for me. These run about $10 for a
bit of stainless scrap cut and drilled to size.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

"Secular Humanist" wrote in message
...
On 8/29/10 11:18 AM, YukonBound wrote:


"Jim" wrote in message
...
bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:

Larry wrote:
bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn
near impossible

How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge.
Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.

Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills.
Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock.
I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch.
Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work.
But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern.
I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts.
Non-expanding type.
Examples here.

thanks jim, looks like an interesting option

Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted
lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used
when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build
with one.
Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not.
Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality"
boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as
"backplates."
I don't stand behind any advice I give.
Make sure your deck is sound.
Stay safe.
Use your best judgement.
See this article our old pal Norm wrote,
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php

Jim - Everybody CYA.



When I purchased my 18 year old sailboat, the owner included the
stanchions and lifelines. It was an extra that had never been installed.
I used a 1/4" aluminum plate backing to make sure the stanchions were
good & strong.


I have a friend I sometimes take out on my Parker. He suffered a serious
leg injury some years ago and has never really recovered, despite many
trips to various doctors. Anyway, because of a weak leg, he has trouble
using the folding boarding ladder/platform at the back of the boat after a
swim. So I ordered a stainless "handle" from Parker to install on the
transom above the boarding ladder. As soon as it arrives at the dealer,
I'll be taking it to the welding shop next door so the guys there can
measure, cut and drill a backing plate for me. These run about $10 for a
bit of stainless scrap cut and drilled to size.

I had gone to a metal shop and had them cut a 4" x 36" strip of 1/8"
stainless steel for that purpose, but I found it too hard to cut & drill.
(I ended up getting a drill press for a birthday) Anyway, I found the 1/4"
aluminum easier to deal with.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On 8/29/10 11:47 AM, YukonBound wrote:


"Secular Humanist" wrote in message
...
On 8/29/10 11:18 AM, YukonBound wrote:


"Jim" wrote in message
...
bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:

Larry wrote:
bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is
damn
near impossible

How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge.
Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.

Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the
hills.
Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock.
I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch.
Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work.
But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern.
I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts.
Non-expanding type.
Examples here.

thanks jim, looks like an interesting option

Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted
lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used
when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build
with one.
Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not.
Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality"
boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as
"backplates."
I don't stand behind any advice I give.
Make sure your deck is sound.
Stay safe.
Use your best judgement.
See this article our old pal Norm wrote,
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php

Jim - Everybody CYA.



When I purchased my 18 year old sailboat, the owner included the
stanchions and lifelines. It was an extra that had never been installed.
I used a 1/4" aluminum plate backing to make sure the stanchions were
good & strong.


I have a friend I sometimes take out on my Parker. He suffered a
serious leg injury some years ago and has never really recovered,
despite many trips to various doctors. Anyway, because of a weak leg,
he has trouble using the folding boarding ladder/platform at the back
of the boat after a swim. So I ordered a stainless "handle" from
Parker to install on the transom above the boarding ladder. As soon as
it arrives at the dealer, I'll be taking it to the welding shop next
door so the guys there can measure, cut and drill a backing plate for
me. These run about $10 for a bit of stainless scrap cut and drilled
to size.

I had gone to a metal shop and had them cut a 4" x 36" strip of 1/8"
stainless steel for that purpose, but I found it too hard to cut & drill.
(I ended up getting a drill press for a birthday) Anyway, I found the
1/4" aluminum easier to deal with.


No doubt about it...which is why I have the welding shop drill it on the
drill press.

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

"YukonBound" wrote in message ...


"Secular Humanist" wrote in message
...
On 8/29/10 11:18 AM, YukonBound wrote:


"Jim" wrote in message
...
bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:

Larry wrote:
bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is damn
near impossible

How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge.
Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.

Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the hills.
Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock.
I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch.
Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work.
But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern.
I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts.
Non-expanding type.
Examples here.

thanks jim, looks like an interesting option

Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted
lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used
when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build
with one.
Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not.
Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality"
boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as
"backplates."
I don't stand behind any advice I give.
Make sure your deck is sound.
Stay safe.
Use your best judgement.
See this article our old pal Norm wrote,
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php

Jim - Everybody CYA.



When I purchased my 18 year old sailboat, the owner included the
stanchions and lifelines. It was an extra that had never been installed.
I used a 1/4" aluminum plate backing to make sure the stanchions were
good & strong.


I have a friend I sometimes take out on my Parker. He suffered a serious
leg injury some years ago and has never really recovered, despite many
trips to various doctors. Anyway, because of a weak leg, he has trouble
using the folding boarding ladder/platform at the back of the boat after a
swim. So I ordered a stainless "handle" from Parker to install on the
transom above the boarding ladder. As soon as it arrives at the dealer,
I'll be taking it to the welding shop next door so the guys there can
measure, cut and drill a backing plate for me. These run about $10 for a
bit of stainless scrap cut and drilled to size.

I had gone to a metal shop and had them cut a 4" x 36" strip of 1/8"
stainless steel for that purpose, but I found it too hard to cut & drill.
(I ended up getting a drill press for a birthday) Anyway, I found the 1/4"
aluminum easier to deal with.


Most people do. !/4" alum is plenty for most applications. Where will you put the drill press? In your front room?

best way to reseat stanchion posts
 

On Sun, 29 Aug 2010 08:18:31 -0500, Jim wrote:

bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:


thanks jim, looks like an interesting option

Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted
lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used
when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build
with one.
Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not.
Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality"
boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as "backplates."
I don't stand behind any advice I give.
Make sure your deck is sound.
Stay safe.
Use your best judgement.
See this article our old pal Norm wrote,
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php

Jim - Everybody CYA.


i'm not even sure i can GET to the backing plates...if there are any.
the area is pretty inaccessible