On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 21:12:32 -0400, W1TEF
wrote:

Then, move up the anchor line until it is vertical. Move the anchor to
shallow water a little at a time taking up the slack. Eventually
you'll get it shallow enough to man handle it aboard.


That's creative although you are likely to run aground at some point.

I wonder something - on your GB, could you use the boom to lift it
aboard once you got it shallow enough?

That's one possibility but I have other ways that I like better. I'd
prefer to pull the anchor right where it sits for various reasons.

You're thinking in the right direction however.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 21:12:32 -0400, W1TEF
wrote:

Then, move up the anchor line until it is vertical. Move the anchor to
shallow water a little at a time taking up the slack. Eventually
you'll get it shallow enough to man handle it aboard.


That's creative although you are likely to run aground at some point.

I wonder something - on your GB, could you use the boom to lift it
aboard once you got it shallow enough?

That's one possibility but I have other ways that I like better. I'd
prefer to pull the anchor right where it sits for various reasons.

You're thinking in the right direction however.

Is the anchor dug into mud or snagged on something? If it's snagged, I don't
see a way to clear it without either driving forward over it or diving on
it. From what I've read, you're supposed to have a second line from the
anchor to the surface with a float attached to mark the spot. Perhaps if it
was a double line with a pulley on it because you thought ahead (and the
anchor was in mud), you could use one end of the float line to haul down a
heavier line, attach one or more fenders and haul those down perhaps using a
regular winch, since I bet it would be pretty hard to do, and then use the
combined effort of muscle and lift from the fender to raise the anchor.

On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 21:31:40 -0400, W1TEF
wrote:

I wonder something - on your GB, could you use the boom to lift it
aboard once you got it shallow enough?

I had a couple of other ideas also. The old Polyform bouy trick would
work quite well also.

The buoy trick, as I understand it, requires that the anchor rode slip
freely, either through the middle of the buoy, or through a loop
attached to the buoy. I'm concerned that a chain rode might not slip
all that well although it's certainly creative and supplies a much
needed mechanical advantage.

I believe the maximum vertical pull is limited by the maximum buoyancy
of the buoy? If we need a vertical lift of 300+ pounds, that implies
a very large buoy, something over 5 cubic feet. We also would need a
propulsion system capable of providing over 300 lbs of static thrust,
possibly difficult on a sailboat with their typically wimpy little
engines and props.

On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 22:24:27 -0400, W1TEF
wrote:

The A-7 Polyform bouy holds 161.6 gallons of air which ~~ mumble -
mumble - carry the six, add four, times 12, price of tea in China ~~
works out to...24.8 something or other cubic feet? That right?

I'm getting about 20 cubic feet assuming 8 gallons per cube, or about
1200 pounds of buoyancy. That's a big-un, should do the trick if we
can get the chain to slip and have enough static engine thrust. Nice
solution if you've got the room for a big buoy like that. Any idea
what they cost, and what the deflated size is? A couple of them might
be useful as hurricane fenders.

http://www.polyformus.com/doc/product_a7.htm

My personal solution is to use a chain hook led to a 3,000 lb
Come-a-Long. I've tested it enough to know that it works but it would
take a while to bring up the anchor from 40 ft. The nice thing is
that Come-a-Longs are relatively cheap and don't take up a lot of
space. A multi-part block and tackle led to a chain hook or rolling
hitch should be workable also if you have enough mechanical advantage.

Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 22:24:27 -0400, W1TEF
wrote:

The A-7 Polyform bouy holds 161.6 gallons of air which ~~ mumble -
mumble - carry the six, add four, times 12, price of tea in China ~~
works out to...24.8 something or other cubic feet? That right?

I'm getting about 20 cubic feet assuming 8 gallons per cube, or about
1200 pounds of buoyancy. That's a big-un, should do the trick if we
can get the chain to slip and have enough static engine thrust. Nice
solution if you've got the room for a big buoy like that. Any idea
what they cost, and what the deflated size is? A couple of them might
be useful as hurricane fenders.

http://www.polyformus.com/doc/product_a7.htm

My personal solution is to use a chain hook led to a 3,000 lb
Come-a-Long. I've tested it enough to know that it works but it would
take a while to bring up the anchor from 40 ft. The nice thing is
that Come-a-Longs are relatively cheap and don't take up a lot of
space. A multi-part block and tackle led to a chain hook or rolling
hitch should be workable also if you have enough mechanical advantage.


Whether you go with a come-along or block/tackle make sure it works.
The cheap block/tackles are sometime just plain worthless, coming with
ready-made frozen pulleys and cheap binding rope.
I threw away a bubble packaged 1/4 ton half a minute after I opened it.
Even a cheap come-along usually works well enough.
Here's a U.S. made come-along and block/tackle which look a couple
quality cuts above the typical Chinese crap.

http://www.garrettwade.com/come-alon...er/p/60R05.01/

http://www.garrettwade.com/product.a...cd2=1277183447

I'm not endorsing any of those. I'm just putting these links in for
DePlume, because she might be serious about this, and probably hasn't
seen any of this gear. This place could use a new young boater who
knows where to put the doilies. The old farts here are dying off.
That block/tackle above has 4:1 advantage.
The come-along might be 8:1. Hard to tell, just going by experience.
I was closer than far - looks like this one is +12:1.
https://www.aceindustries.com/p-8230...ome-along.aspx



You can get even more with the lever if put a pipe on in.
But you only want to do that if you're weak, otherwise you'll exceed its
capacity and likely break it.
Easy to break your boat in half with some of this gear.
https://www.aceindustries.com/c-24-h...ll-models.aspx
With the block/tackle more pulleys will increase the advantage, but that
takes wider blocks and more rope.
I had a heavy chain come-alone but it weighed about 70 pounds.
All drop forged and very heavy chain.
Lost it off Nantucket when a shackle broke pulling in a humpback.
A chain fall is a great pulley hoist, but again they're heavy.
Here's an example.
https://www.aceindustries.com/p-8240...chainfall.aspx
See how you pull 172 feet to lift a foot?
Don't know what the advantage ratio is, but I've hoisted +1000 lbs many
times with them, and it's almost effortless strength-wise.
Rope or chain is the only practical "line" for manual pulley hoists.
But for a light come-along on a non-whaling boat I'd go with cable.
If I had a davit without a manual winch and expected I might have to
manually hoist using it, I would have a good quality rope block/tackle
rated to the davit capacity. Then all your rigging is right at the action.
But a come-along cable run through a snatch block on the davit hook
could do the job.
Wayne might give us his preference and needs from his "big boat"
perspective.
I hung up my whaling gear some years ago when I moved to Florida, so I'm
out of the big boat loop now.

Jim - Reminiscing sure can change history.

On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 13:32:45 -0500, Jim wrote:

You can get even more with the lever if put a pipe on in.
But you only want to do that if you're weak, otherwise you'll exceed its
capacity and likely break it.

It is normally a bad idea to use a cheater bar, if you are a mechanic
with the good hand strength they all have. For assembly, torque
wrenches mostly have relatively long handles and no cheating needed.
As for taking things apart, the gas welder is your friend. You can use
a bitty welding tip and not spread hot gas everywhere like with an
ordinary propane torch. Heat just the nut, without frying the nearby
wiring. If the torch is small enough you can heat the nut but not the
screw it is on. They sell dry ice, two bucks a pound, at the local
grocery store. You chill everythihg before you heat the nut and get
more differential expansion that hopefully will break the grip of the
rust.
You might be amazed at how much stuff you may have to remove in order
to get at what is left of a broken stud. They might have left room for
a wrench and even room for the hand to turn it, but you can spend the
time it used to take to change an engine getting at a broken screw
with a drill. My current ride requires about two hours to change the
plugs. You have to take lots of **** off and put it back later.
Luckily they last at least 100 000 miles. I don't know why a truck
needs a four cam engine, but the Lincoln Navigator has one. Sucker
went 175 000 miles before the check engine light came on. It was a
leaking valve guide. I figured that was the handwriting on the wall
and put in a rebuilt mill. I should have replaced the starter and
alternator at that time and they both went within 25 000 more miles,
luckily without any real inconvenience.

Casady

On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 06:24:55 -0400, W1TEF
wrote:

Mechanical advantage would be a good way. If you used two four rove
blocks in series - that works out to something like 35 lbs (I think).
You could hang the blocks off the boom - should be solid enough for 35
lbs.

Wrong. While using a block and tackle will divide the weight among
several bits of line, the total will remain the same and that is what
the boom feels. The entire weight.

Casady

"Richard Casady" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 06:24:55 -0400, W1TEF
wrote:

Mechanical advantage would be a good way. If you used two four rove
blocks in series - that works out to something like 35 lbs (I think).
You could hang the blocks off the boom - should be solid enough for 35
lbs.

Wrong. While using a block and tackle will divide the weight among
several bits of line, the total will remain the same and that is what
the boom feels. The entire weight.

Casady
That's correct. 35 lb pull will be felt at the bitter end of the tackle.

In article ,
says...

On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 08:00:09 -0500, Richard Casady
wrote:

On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 06:24:55 -0400, W1TEF
wrote:

Mechanical advantage would be a good way. If you used two four rove
blocks in series - that works out to something like 35 lbs (I think).
You could hang the blocks off the boom - should be solid enough for 35
lbs.

Wrong. While using a block and tackle will divide the weight among
several bits of line, the total will remain the same and that is what
the boom feels. The entire weight.

Show me where I'm wrong.

Is he saying that by using the tackle the weight on the boom will be
decreased? Who said that, Tom?

--
Rowdy Mouse Racing - We race for cheese!

On 6/22/10 6:24 AM, W1TEF wrote:
On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 22:47:10 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 21 Jun 2010 22:24:27 -0400,
wrote:

The A-7 Polyform bouy holds 161.6 gallons of air which ~~ mumble -
mumble - carry the six, add four, times 12, price of tea in China ~~
works out to...24.8 something or other cubic feet? That right?

I'm getting about 20 cubic feet assuming 8 gallons per cube, or about
1200 pounds of buoyancy. That's a big-un, should do the trick if we
can get the chain to slip and have enough static engine thrust. Nice
solution if you've got the room for a big buoy like that. Any idea
what they cost, and what the deflated size is? A couple of them might
be useful as hurricane fenders.

http://www.polyformus.com/doc/product_a7.htm

My personal solution is to use a chain hook led to a 3,000 lb
Come-a-Long. I've tested it enough to know that it works but it would
take a while to bring up the anchor from 40 ft. The nice thing is
that Come-a-Longs are relatively cheap and don't take up a lot of
space. A multi-part block and tackle led to a chain hook or rolling
hitch should be workable also if you have enough mechanical advantage.

That was going to be my next solution. I've never had much luck
trying to snag a hunk of chain on the bottom though even at 40 feet. I
also thought we were talking deeper than 40 feet.

Mechanical advantage would be a good way. If you used two four rove
blocks in series - that works out to something like 35 lbs (I think).
You could hang the blocks off the boom - should be solid enough for 35
lbs.


Are you planning to tie an anti-gravity belt onto what you are trying to
lift with the boom? Whatever blocks you have attached to the boom, the
boom is going to "feel" the full weight of what is solely attached to
it. Of course, I was only an English major in college, not a
hard-science wizard like you...

Carry on.