hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:45 am, wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:





On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a
nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all
repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over
the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new
"semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the
cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural
components by drilling holes in it.


D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the
stainless steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer
together and for the fender fasteners and for the sidelights.

This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy
for Brains.

Nice try, though. You're doing well as an ankle-snapping pomeranian.




Nice to see that you are duly annoyed with him. Seems like mission
accomplished. Good work loogey.

On Apr 13, 11:55*am, anon-e-moose wrote:
hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:25 am, *wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom"
cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. *Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. *Put *metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. *You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. *Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

You can buy bungee cords with plastic or plastic coated hooks. You *can
hook one end of the bungee cord on one of the lower legs of the I beam
and loop the bungee under the beam to hold it in place or you can loop
the bungee around the eye beam and hook the bungee back on to itself, or
you can buy the bungees in lengths that will loop around the I beam and
* both hooks can attach to the loops, or you can use the old partially
filled milk bottle trick to maintain constant tension on the tarp and
never have to touch the trailer with lashings.
How do you deal with rain water puddleing up on your cover, or snow load?

This problem with bungee material deteriorating in sunlight is so bad
that I have actually sewn covers for bungee from scrap material.
Somebody should make UV resistant bungee.

On 4/13/10 11:57 AM, Frogwatch wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:45 am, wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:



On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Maybe use small hooks from Ace attached with self drilling screws. If
your eyes are as bad as mine it would give you a larger target.

I think West Marine has what I want, readymade... 4' bungee cord with a
closed snap loop on one end and plastic hook on the other. I can attach
the closed loop to the web strap loops on the cover and pull the open
hook around the frame so the hook can attach to the bungee.

I got "lasiked" about 11 years ago, and have 20/20 in one eye and 20/30
in the other. If the light is decent, I can read books, magazines,
newspapers without glasses, and my gunshooting glasses work for
distances a bit beyond that, out to about 30". But if the light is bad,
I'm pretty much skunked at short distances.



--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

On Apr 13, 11:13*am, hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote:





On Apr 13, 10:45 am, *wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:

On Apr 13, 10:25 am, * *wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. *Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. *Put *metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. *You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. *Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym-Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural
components by drilling holes in it.

D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the
stainless steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer
together and for the fender fasteners and for the sidelights.

I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly
took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural
member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the
factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling
holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can
significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural
integrity.

This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy
for Brains.

See above, dummy.

But, then again, go ahead, drill all the holes in it you want!

On 4/13/10 11:59 AM, Frogwatch wrote:
On Apr 13, 11:55 am, wrote:
hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom"
cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee
cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill
small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks...

I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think.

You can buy bungee cords with plastic or plastic coated hooks. You can
hook one end of the bungee cord on one of the lower legs of the I beam
and loop the bungee under the beam to hold it in place or you can loop
the bungee around the eye beam and hook the bungee back on to itself, or
you can buy the bungees in lengths that will loop around the I beam and
both hooks can attach to the loops, or you can use the old partially
filled milk bottle trick to maintain constant tension on the tarp and
never have to touch the trailer with lashings.
How do you deal with rain water puddleing up on your cover, or snow load?

This problem with bungee material deteriorating in sunlight is so bad
that I have actually sewn covers for bungee from scrap material.
Somebody should make UV resistant bungee.


I wonder how WestMarine's UV-resistant bungees will do? I don't mind
replacing some of them every season if I go that route.

The canvas cover is only for keeping dust and bird **** out of the boat
during the boating season. When the season is over, I have the boat
shrinkwrapped.


--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

On 4/13/10 12:03 PM, Loogypicker wrote:


I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly
took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural
member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the
factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling
holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can
significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural
integrity.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfx8C5bywIg


--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

"hk" wrote in message
...
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches
of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck
hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to
the trailer...

Cheers.

--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Contact this outfit in Chicago.

http://www.henryssports.com/

A few years I bought bulk bungee cord and plastic pieces to make an
excellent tie down system. One piece secures a loop that you attach to the
cover. The other piece is mounted on the trailer where the end of the
bungee cord is "wedged" in and held very securely. Fast and easy install
and install.

It makes for a neat and efficient tie down system. The cords remain
attached to the cover and do not get "misplaced".

On 4/13/10 12:12 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 11:29:57 -0400,
wrote:

On 4/13/10 11:22 AM, wrote:
On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:37:10 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch
wrote:

On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

That bungee that Ace and other places sell (white with blue flecks
going through it) uses a polyethylene cover and the sun will kill it
pretty quickly. The cover shreds and you are left with a bunch of
rubber bands.
Unfortunately I have been unable to find a better alternative. I know
they make it because I have some solid blue covered bungee from a
Mighty Mite luggage cart that has lasted years right next to the white
stuff. It seems to have a nylon jacket.

West Marine has some polyester covered bungees...

Polyester is bad in the sun too


I'll rub some SPF-100 on it!



--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:37:10 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch
wrote:

On Apr 13, 10:25 am, hk wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice
18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired
at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double
patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the
deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom"
cover.

Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover
to the trailer...

Cheers.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin
bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said
bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy
stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for
these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material.

That bungee that Ace and other places sell (white with blue flecks
going through it) uses a polyethylene cover and the sun will kill it
pretty quickly. The cover shreds and you are left with a bunch of
rubber bands.
Unfortunately I have been unable to find a better alternative. I know
they make it because I have some solid blue covered bungee from a
Mighty Mite luggage cart that has lasted years right next to the white
stuff. It seems to have a nylon jacket.

Sailrite has shock cord with a nylon cover
http://search.sailrite.com/category/Shock-Cord

On Apr 13, 1:12*pm, hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 1:09 PM, Loogypicker wrote:





On Apr 13, 12:06 pm, *wrote:
On 4/13/10 12:03 PM, Loogypicker wrote:

I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly
took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural
member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the
factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling
holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can
significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural
integrity.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfx8C5bywIg

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Okay, so now we know you understand NOTHING about engineering.

Sorry, I don't engage idiots like you in meaningful "discussions."



Yep, as soon as it's proven you don't know what in hell you are
talking about, you start the childish insults. Please, do tell the
people here, how does one remove material from a structural member
without diminishing the load carrying capacity of that member?