On Mar 30, 10:10*am, Tim wrote:
There's an old saying at a local high performance engine shop that
says "Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?" And I know the
old rule usually applies "you get what you pay for? Well for the few
times I've taken my marquis out it's interesting to get it up on
plane. first , if you ease the throttle, you'll do a wheelie to where
you think the boat will flip over backwards and you do little but plow
water , so you have to nail it and you still get an extreme bow rise
but it settles down and know you're going, but you still have to keep
the RPM up above 2800 or the boat wants to drag back. So I'm
investigating trim tabs. There's all kinds on the market anywhere from
sophisticated hydraulic and independently controlled units ranging up
to around $500.00 all the way down to the spring loaded sets that that
are available for around a hundred bucks. I'm sure that trim tabs
would help the boating experience, but *I'm really wondering how much
trim control I'm actually needing. to make a more efficient ride and
run. I'm constantly accused of being 'tight' but I'm not THAT tight,
because I know that money spent in the right direction will save in
fuel and ride in the longer run. But over kill is still overkill. This
is a 23 ft. V-hull Marquis with a 350 GM engine and not some 3000 hp.
40 ft. Fountain off shore racer. So, anyone have any suggestions?

You need Tabs. No more wheelies.

Those new Smart Tabs will be out of the question. Your Boats too big.

I've looked at a lot of different ones. I would go electric, if it
were me.

The kits are pretty easy to install. 1 afternoon, I'd think.

I've seen used Bennets (sp?) on E-Bay. Hydraulic seems too fussy for
me, with the oil and all.

On Mar 30, 10:52*am, Harry wrote:
On 3/30/10 10:10 AM, Tim wrote:



There's an old saying at a local high performance engine shop that
says "Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?" And I know the
old rule usually applies "you get what you pay for? Well for the few
times I've taken my marquis out it's interesting to get it up on
plane. first , if you ease the throttle, you'll do a wheelie to where
you think the boat will flip over backwards and you do little but plow
water , so you have to nail it and you still get an extreme bow rise
but it settles down and know you're going, but you still have to keep
the RPM up above 2800 or the boat wants to drag back. So I'm
investigating trim tabs. There's all kinds on the market anywhere from
sophisticated hydraulic and independently controlled units ranging up
to around $500.00 all the way down to the spring loaded sets that that
are available for around a hundred bucks. I'm sure that trim tabs
would help the boating experience, but *I'm really wondering how much
trim control I'm actually needing. to make a more efficient ride and
run. I'm constantly accused of being 'tight' but I'm not THAT tight,
because I know that money spent in the right direction will save in
fuel and ride in the longer run. But over kill is still overkill. This
is a 23 ft. V-hull Marquis with a 350 GM engine and not some 3000 hp.
40 ft. Fountain off shore racer. So, anyone have any suggestions?

A properly installed set of tabs will do the job for you. Question...are
you running the prop specified by the manufacturer for that rig? There
are props that on a given boat will produce more bow rise than other
props. You might have a bad mismatch.

I am totally unfamiliar with outdrives. Does yours have enough trim so
that you can pull the lower unit in closer to the bottom of the transom?

BTW, one problem buyers of aftermarket tabs often face...is buying a set
of tabs too small for the job.

I didnt see where he said it was an Outdrive. I also would NOT put a
Whale Tail on it. IMO...it stresses the transom more. If this an
outdrive Boat.

On Mar 30, 10:10 am, Tim wrote:

... I know that money spent in the right direction will save in
fuel and ride in the longer run. But over kill is still overkill. This
is a 23 ft. V-hull Marquis with a 350 GM engine and not some 3000 hp.
40 ft. Fountain off shore racer. So, anyone have any suggestions?

Tim, I missed this thread before and perhaps you have already found your
answer.
If you decide to got with trim tabs, it's important to get the right size.
In general, the width (or span) of each tab should be equal to 1-inch for
every foot of boat length.
So, a 23 foot boat should have tabs that are at least 23 inches wide.

Bennett has lots of experience and has a chart of recommended sizes:

http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/trimtabkits.php

Eisboch

On Mar 30, 5:44*pm, "Eisboch" wrote:
On Mar 30, 10:10 am, Tim wrote:

... I know that money spent in the right direction will save in
fuel and ride in the longer run. But over kill is still overkill. This
is a 23 ft. V-hull Marquis with a 350 GM engine and not some 3000 hp.
40 ft. Fountain off shore racer. So, anyone have any suggestions?

Tim, I missed this thread before and perhaps you have already found your
answer.
If you decide to got with trim tabs, it's important to get the right size..
In general, the width (or span) of each tab should be equal to 1-inch for
every foot of boat length.
So, a 23 foot boat should have tabs that are at least 23 inches wide.

Bennett has lots of experience and has a chart of recommended sizes:

http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/trimtabkits.php

Eisboch

Thanks for the site, Rich.

it looks like my boat is in these categories

19'-24' (5.8-7.3 m) Limited Transom Space or Extra Lift 12" x
12" (30 x 30 cm)

20'-23' (6.0-7.0 m) Single I/O or Single Outboard 10" x 12" (25 x 30
cm) M120

22'-27' (6.7-8.3 m) Single I/O or Single Outboard 24" x 9" (61 x 23
cm)

When you say at least 23"s do you mean a piece? or combined?

Tim wrote:
On Mar 30, 8:42 am, wrote:

wrote in message

...






There's an old saying at a local high performance engine shop that
says "Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?" And I know the
old rule usually applies "you get what you pay for? Well for the few
times I've taken my marquis out it's interesting to get it up on
plane. first , if you ease the throttle, you'll do a wheelie to where
you think the boat will flip over backwards and you do little but plow
water , so you have to nail it and you still get an extreme bow rise
but it settles down and know you're going, but you still have to keep
the RPM up above 2800 or the boat wants to drag back. So I'm
investigating trim tabs. There's all kinds on the market anywhere from
sophisticated hydraulic and independently controlled units ranging up
to around $500.00 all the way down to the spring loaded sets that that
are available for around a hundred bucks. I'm sure that trim tabs
would help the boating experience, but I'm really wondering how much
trim control I'm actually needing. to make a more efficient ride and
run. I'm constantly accused of being 'tight' but I'm not THAT tight,
because I know that money spent in the right direction will save in
fuel and ride in the longer run. But over kill is still overkill. This
is a 23 ft. V-hull Marquis with a 350 GM engine and not some 3000 hp.
40 ft. Fountain off shore racer. So, anyone have any suggestions?

Tim,

My father had hydraulic trim tabs on his 22 ft. Apollo back in the day, they
were very useful for the application that you are referring. They are also
very helpful if you have an offset in the load, you can equalize easily with
the trim tabs.

For little investment, you might also try one of the following first. I
have no experience on larger boats, however I know they work well on smaller
run abouts in the 16 to 18 ft. range. There are several other manufactures
on the market besides this one.

http://www.davisnet.com/MARINE/produ...asp?pnum=00448

JT- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks JT. I do have a fin on the lower end, though

Forget the spring -loaded tabs. They will always add drag.

If your fin is anything like the one I had on my old bowrider, it has an
odd effect on the cornering. I took mine off.

Try this: Don't ease the throttle, open it up. Just as the bow begins
to lower, back off on the throttle until you have it where you want to
be. If that still takes too long, you can play with prop size, pitch,
cupping and venting. When you get your desired result, you will may
lose some top end speed. Prop selection is a PITA for most boat owners.

"Larry" wrote in message
...


Try this: Don't ease the throttle, open it up. Just as the bow begins to
lower, back off on the throttle until you have it where you want to be.
If that still takes too long, you can play with prop size, pitch, cupping
and venting. When you get your desired result, you will may lose some top
end speed. Prop selection is a PITA for most boat owners.

The old Century I had was the pits for getting up on plane ... when the
engine was
having a good day and it could.

I had two props of two different pitches. I used one when I had four or
more people aboard and the other when only one or two were aboard. That
boat was so heavy in the stern it took trim tabs fully lowered and the leg
fully tucked in plus a request for a couple of people to go forward in the
cabin to get it up on plane.

Eisboch

Eisboch wrote:
wrote in message
...



Try this: Don't ease the throttle, open it up. Just as the bow begins to
lower, back off on the throttle until you have it where you want to be.
If that still takes too long, you can play with prop size, pitch, cupping
and venting. When you get your desired result, you will may lose some top
end speed. Prop selection is a PITA for most boat owners.

The old Century I had was the pits for getting up on plane ... when the
engine was
having a good day and it could.

I had two props of two different pitches. I used one when I had four or
more people aboard and the other when only one or two were aboard. That
boat was so heavy in the stern it took trim tabs fully lowered and the leg
fully tucked in plus a request for a couple of people to go forward in the
cabin to get it up on plane.

Eisboch



You can't get a 14' rowboat with a 2.5HP to plane for the same reason.
Are you thinking Tim needs more HP?

On Tue, 30 Mar 2010 19:42:20 -0400, "Eisboch" wrote:

Each one. As the Bennett site suggests, the width or span is more important
than
how far out they come out from the transom (chord).

Bennett is a great outfit to do business with also. They stand behind
their products and are easy to reach on the phone for advice.

On Mar 30, 6:32*pm, Larry wrote:
Tim wrote:
On Mar 30, 8:42 am, *wrote:

*wrote in message

....

There's an old saying at a local high performance engine shop that
says "Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?" And I know the
old rule usually applies "you get what you pay for? Well for the few
times I've taken my marquis out it's interesting to get it up on
plane. first , if you ease the throttle, you'll do a wheelie to where
you think the boat will flip over backwards and you do little but plow
water , so you have to nail it and you still get an extreme bow rise
but it settles down and know you're going, but you still have to keep
the RPM up above 2800 or the boat wants to drag back. So I'm
investigating trim tabs. There's all kinds on the market anywhere from
sophisticated hydraulic and independently controlled units ranging up
to around $500.00 all the way down to the spring loaded sets that that
are available for around a hundred bucks. I'm sure that trim tabs
would help the boating experience, but *I'm really wondering how much
trim control I'm actually needing. to make a more efficient ride and
run. I'm constantly accused of being 'tight' but I'm not THAT tight,
because I know that money spent in the right direction will save in
fuel and ride in the longer run. But over kill is still overkill. This
is a 23 ft. V-hull Marquis with a 350 GM engine and not some 3000 hp.
40 ft. Fountain off shore racer. So, anyone have any suggestions?

Tim,

My father had hydraulic trim tabs on his 22 ft. Apollo back in the day, they
were very useful for the application that you are referring. They are also
very helpful if you have an offset in the load, you can equalize easily with
the trim tabs.

For little investment, you might also try one of the following first. *I
have no experience on larger boats, however I know they work well on smaller
run abouts in the 16 to 18 ft. range. There are several other manufactures
on the market besides this one.

http://www.davisnet.com/MARINE/produ...asp?pnum=00448

JT- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks JT. I do have a fin on the lower end, though

Forget the spring -loaded tabs. *They will always add drag.

If your fin is anything like the one I had on my old bowrider, it has an
odd effect on the cornering. *I took mine off.

Try this: *Don't ease the throttle, open it up. *Just as the bow begins
to lower, back off on the throttle until you have it where you want to
be. *If that still takes too long, you can play with prop size, pitch,
cupping and venting. *When you get your desired result, you will may
lose some top end speed. *Prop selection is a PITA for most boat owners..

Larry, that's what I do with my smaller boat and it hole shots quite
well. The big tub? it drags and plows until it decides to get up and
running. I dont' know, maybe I'm asking too much of the take off
performance on the big one, but I don't think so. Something is amiss
(maybe me!) and I'll have to experiment around with it for a while I
suppose.

On Mar 30, 6:49*pm, "Eisboch" wrote:
"Larry" wrote in message

...

Try this: *Don't ease the throttle, open it up. *Just as the bow begins to
lower, back off on the throttle until you have it where you want to be.
If that still takes too long, you can play with prop size, pitch, cupping
and venting. *When you get your desired result, you will may lose some top
end speed. *Prop selection is a PITA for most boat owners.

The old Century I had was the pits for getting up on plane ... when the
engine was
having a good day and it could.

I had two props of two different pitches. * I used one when I had four or
more people aboard and the other when only one or two were aboard. *That
boat was so heavy in the stern it took trim tabs fully lowered and the leg
fully tucked in plus a request for a couple of people to go forward in the
cabin to get it up on plane.

Eisboch

What size Century was it, Rich?