Boat weight distribution..
 

On Mar 30, 9:26*am, "mmc" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message

...





OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, *but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance..
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.

I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an *electric pump to a
hand held shower head. *I figure I'm adding about 300 + *lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) *but the boat
has a weight load *on the spec tag of 950 lb.

Now *I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs *comes next) etc.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.

And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.

Brother Tim! Bless you for a real damn boating post!

That's all I try to do, man. It seems that boating posts should be in
a boating newsgroup.

?;^ )

I'd skip the electric water pump. People are much more conservative if they
have to work a little for the water and carrying 5 gallon jerry cans sucks.

Yeah, I ahve some jerry cans but they're to heavy, but I couldn't
believe it when the wife said we could carry some fresh water in
gallon milk jugs (huh?) but sounds good to me.

I have a manual pump for my galley and it really stretches my 20 gallon
water tank
and really like these for showershttp://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|26832|319660&id=566122
Buy 2, keeps the other person honest (only use her own), don't have to wait
hours to reheat, and no moving parts!
Sound like it's coming together!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the encouragement. and all advice is taken into
consideration. I'll be checking out the link when I get home.

Boat weight distribution..
 

On Mar 30, 11:21*am, John H wrote:
On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:
OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, *but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.

I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an *electric pump to a
hand held shower head. *I figure I'm adding about 300 + *lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) *but the boat
has a weight load *on the spec tag of 950 lb.

Now *I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs *comes next) etc.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.

And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.

How long are you planning to be out for one trip? A good cooler will keep stuff
cold for four or five days, and weigh a lot less than 50 pounds (empty).
--
John H

For a great time, go here first...http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

John, the boat has 'captains' chairs in the front and the pilot side
is ok, but we're thinking on pulling the port side chair and
installing the fridge in it's own dedicatated and insulated cabinet
under it then putting a short chair pedistal and chair on top of it.
Actually from what I can tell this fridge is actually 120v with it's
own built in power inverter to convert from 12 DC to 120 AC. But it's
all self contained and water proof.

This is to utilize the space better instead of having a big cooler or
the fridge hanging out where you have to walk around it or me trip
over it (yes I'm clumsy!) Power is provided to it though the
auxillary batteries and those in turn are charged via a battery
isolator which will feed them and the engine battery off the
alternator. at the refridgerators 3.5 A draw, the auxiallry batteries
should be good to run the fridge over night that is if it doesn't need
to run 24-7, and the least that can happen is the fridge can run the
aux. batteries dead and still leave the engine battery alone. Start
the boat and you charge the engine and aux batteries at the same time.

Anyhow, We'd still be taking a cooler to keep the drinking water and
juice etc in and the food stuffs in the ice box.

Anyhow, that's my views concerning using a 12v refridgerator instead
of a cooler for main stay refridgeration.

Oh yeah, If we can hhole up at a marina with shore power for a night,
we can plug the box right in at the dock.

Boat weight distribution..
 

On Mar 30, 11:21*am, John H wrote:

How long are you planning to be out for one trip?

John, the length of the trip may be determined by the weight of the
credit card.

?;^ Q

Boat weight distribution..
 

On 3/30/10 4:02 PM, Tim wrote:

Yeah, I ahve some jerry cans but they're to heavy, but I couldn't
believe it when the wife said we could carry some fresh water in
gallon milk jugs (huh?) but sounds good to me.

Plastic milk jugs are made of very thin-walled plastic, and can't take
much of a hit before they puncture. Why not buy two six packs of one
pint water bottles, save the bottles as you drink the water, and then
wash them off and refill them?

My little Parker has a 20 or 25 gallon insulated baitwell under the
pedestal seats. But when I have live bait, I keep it in a separate
baitwell, which means the bigger baitwell is available for use as a
cooler. I dump a couple bags of ice in it and stow drinks in it. At the
end of the day, I simply pull the unopened drinks out and let the
baitwell drain on its own accord. I keep my refilled water bottles in
there.

I also have a few igloo coolers of various sizes, and typically take one
of the smaller ones aboard for food storage.





--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Boat weight distribution..
 

On Mar 30, 3:28*pm, hk wrote:
On 3/30/10 4:02 PM, Tim wrote:

Yeah, I ahve some jerry cans but they're to heavy, but I couldn't
believe it when the wife said we could carry some fresh water in
gallon milk jugs (huh?) but sounds good to me.

Plastic milk jugs are made of very thin-walled plastic, and can't take
much of a hit before they puncture. Why not buy two six packs of one
pint water bottles, save the bottles as you drink the water, and then
wash them off and refill them?

My little Parker has a 20 or 25 gallon insulated baitwell under the
pedestal seats. But when I have live bait, I keep it in a separate
baitwell, which means the bigger baitwell is available for use as a
cooler. I dump a couple bags of ice in it and stow drinks in it. At the
end of the day, I simply pull the unopened drinks out and let the
baitwell drain on its own accord. I keep my refilled water bottles in
there.

I also have a few igloo coolers of various sizes, and typically take one
of the smaller ones aboard for food storage.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Well that's what I was thinking about the milk jugs. And really I was
surprised that she mentioned it, because it really seemed below her
order of things to offer the suggestion. Plus, the idea is to keep the
interior as un- cluttered ans possible. That's why I'm thinking on
going with a couple of thin line 5 gal. heavy plastic containers with
either an electric or air pump and using a shower nozzle for supply.

Yes, keep the drinking water in the cooler!

Boat weight distribution..
 

On 3/30/10 5:35 PM, Tim wrote:
On Mar 30, 3:28 pm, wrote:
On 3/30/10 4:02 PM, Tim wrote:

Yeah, I ahve some jerry cans but they're to heavy, but I couldn't
believe it when the wife said we could carry some fresh water in
gallon milk jugs (huh?) but sounds good to me.

Plastic milk jugs are made of very thin-walled plastic, and can't take
much of a hit before they puncture. Why not buy two six packs of one
pint water bottles, save the bottles as you drink the water, and then
wash them off and refill them?

My little Parker has a 20 or 25 gallon insulated baitwell under the
pedestal seats. But when I have live bait, I keep it in a separate
baitwell, which means the bigger baitwell is available for use as a
cooler. I dump a couple bags of ice in it and stow drinks in it. At the
end of the day, I simply pull the unopened drinks out and let the
baitwell drain on its own accord. I keep my refilled water bottles in
there.

I also have a few igloo coolers of various sizes, and typically take one
of the smaller ones aboard for food storage.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Well that's what I was thinking about the milk jugs. And really I was
surprised that she mentioned it, because it really seemed below her
order of things to offer the suggestion. Plus, the idea is to keep the
interior as un- cluttered ans possible. That's why I'm thinking on
going with a couple of thin line 5 gal. heavy plastic containers with
either an electric or air pump and using a shower nozzle for supply.

Yes, keep the drinking water in the cooler!


I prefer the sealed one-pinters for water...I know the water inside is
clean and I wash the bottles carefully after use. No pumps, no air hose,
no nozzle.




--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Boat weight distribution..
 

In article 016d6338-c291-4c83-8c2e-13e3656c4b78@
33g2000yqj.googlegroups.com, says...


Well that's what I was thinking about the milk jugs. And really I was
surprised that she mentioned it, because it really seemed below her
order of things to offer the suggestion. Plus, the idea is to keep the
interior as un- cluttered ans possible. That's why I'm thinking on
going with a couple of thin line 5 gal. heavy plastic containers with
either an electric or air pump and using a shower nozzle for supply.

Yes, keep the drinking water in the cooler!


Nothing wrong with gallon milk jugs, and a lot right with them.
I've had plastic milk jugs full of water bounce around in my car trunk
for years. They're tough enough.
Big advantage is they're square, so don't waste space like a bunch or
little round bottles.
Just have to make sure they fit in your cooler.
Shower bags are fine too, and collapsing as they shed water is an
advantage. But you need a larger intial space, and can't store in nooks
and crannies like you can with milk jugs.
Your wife has common sense. That's also a plus.

Boat weight distribution..
 

jamesgangnc wrote:
On Mar 30, 1:21 pm, John wrote:

On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.


I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an electric pump to a
hand held shower head. I figure I'm adding about 300 + lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) but the boat
has a weight load on the spec tag of 950 lb.


Now I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs comes next) etc.


Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.


And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.

How long are you planning to be out for one trip? A good cooler will keep stuff
cold for four or five days, and weigh a lot less than 50 pounds (empty).
--
John H

For a great time, go here first...http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I moved my battery up to the front but it's not without it's flaws.
The front takes a good deal more banging around and I've discovered
that cheaper batteries won't tolerate it. You end up with a dead cell
because the plates got knocked together.

Maybe a Gel battery will solve that problem?

Boat weight distribution..
 

On Mar 30, 9:41*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:59:16 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

John, that's to be determined yet. possibly 200 miles and maybe 3-4
days. In another thread I brought this up about using dry ice in a
cooler, because to me it's repulsive to have food stuffs float around
in ice water even if you use those little resealable containers.and
I've found out from in the past that if the upper part of the
container is exposed to air in the cooler it's not really cold.

One of our hurricane tricks is to stuff the freezer with bottles of
water before the show, then you have mass that takes a long time to
thaw out, when the power goes out. That gives you plenty of "cold" and
when they melt you still have bottles of water. These bottles are also
great in a cooler for all the same reasons. You also don't have that
slimy water sloshing around. You can put your perishables in the
bottom and stack the frozen bottles on top.

Excellent idea Greg. I had previously thought of that, only
experimenting with half gal. jugs.to line the top of a cooler. I've
also got a bunch of ice substitute freeze blocks.

Boat weight distribution..
 

"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Mar 30, 9:41 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:59:16 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

John, that's to be determined yet. possibly 200 miles and maybe 3-4
days. In another thread I brought this up about using dry ice in a
cooler, because to me it's repulsive to have food stuffs float around
in ice water even if you use those little resealable containers.and
I've found out from in the past that if the upper part of the
container is exposed to air in the cooler it's not really cold.

One of our hurricane tricks is to stuff the freezer with bottles of
water before the show, then you have mass that takes a long time to
thaw out, when the power goes out. That gives you plenty of "cold" and
when they melt you still have bottles of water. These bottles are also
great in a cooler for all the same reasons. You also don't have that
slimy water sloshing around. You can put your perishables in the
bottom and stack the frozen bottles on top.

Excellent idea Greg. I had previously thought of that, only
experimenting with half gal. jugs.to line the top of a cooler. I've
also got a bunch of ice substitute freeze blocks.

My cooler will keep ice 5 days, as long as you do not open it a lot. I
always use frozen water bottles, both small and 2L size. Use 2 coolers. A
large one with the frozen stuff and a smaller one which you keep drinks and
stuff for the day in. Then the large one gets opened very few times.