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Tim March 30th 10 02:09 AM

Boat weight distribution..
 
OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.

I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an electric pump to a
hand held shower head. I figure I'm adding about 300 + lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) but the boat
has a weight load on the spec tag of 950 lb.

Now I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs comes next) etc.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.

And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.

Wayne.B March 30th 10 03:06 AM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery


A couple of 6 volt golf cart batteries in series will give you almost
as much capacity and are much easier to handle. You can also split
them up for better weight distribution.

Tim March 30th 10 03:45 AM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 29, 9:06*pm, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery


A couple of 6 volt golf cart batteries in series will give you almost
as much capacity and are much easier to handle. *You can also split
them up for better weight distribution.


I've thought about that Wayne. GCt batteries are suppose to be a 'slow
charge' battery, but i ran a 'trolling motor' battery in my loaded out
'75 Pontiac GrandVille for a couple years with no problems, so I'd
thought of going with the GCt batteries, but I dont' have much use foe
6v's in anything after this fall. So I'm actually opting for car
batteries themselves, after all, by that time I'll have a couple of
tractors that the batteries are junk so the 12v's will still get used
this winter.

But then again....

decisions decisions.....

Tim March 30th 10 04:02 AM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 29, 9:45*pm, Tim wrote:
On Mar 29, 9:06*pm, Wayne.B wrote:

On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:


I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery


A couple of 6 volt golf cart batteries in series will give you almost
as much capacity and are much easier to handle. *You can also split
them up for better weight distribution.


I've thought about that Wayne. GCt batteries are suppose to be a 'slow
charge' battery, but i ran a 'trolling motor' battery in my loaded out
'75 Pontiac GrandVille for a couple years with no problems, so I'd
thought of going with the GCt batteries, but I dont' have much use foe
6v's in anything after this fall. So I'm actually opting for car
batteries themselves, after all, by that time I'll have a couple of
tractors that the batteries are junk so the 12v's will still get used
this winter.

But then again....

decisions decisions.....


This week, the weather is supposed to be extremely nice and in sunny
mid 70's and I'm going to dig the beast out. and start cleaning on it.
my expert carpenter "Jimmy" is coming to look at it to discuss
possibilities on where to put stuff and how to build around it, so it
will be presentable, yet functional and won't look like some dump
truck.

mmc March 30th 10 04:26 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 

"Tim" wrote in message
...
OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.

I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an electric pump to a
hand held shower head. I figure I'm adding about 300 + lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) but the boat
has a weight load on the spec tag of 950 lb.

Now I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs comes next) etc.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.

And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.


Brother Tim! Bless you for a real damn boating post!
I'd skip the electric water pump. People are much more conservative if they
have to work a little for the water and carrying 5 gallon jerry cans sucks.
I have a manual pump for my galley and it really stretches my 20 gallon
water tank
and really like these for showers
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|26832|319660&id=566122
Buy 2, keeps the other person honest (only use her own), don't have to wait
hours to reheat, and no moving parts!
Sound like it's coming together!



I am Tosk March 30th 10 04:44 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
In article m,
says...

"Tim" wrote in message
...
OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.

I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an electric pump to a
hand held shower head. I figure I'm adding about 300 + lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) but the boat
has a weight load on the spec tag of 950 lb.

Now I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs comes next) etc.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.

And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.


Brother Tim! Bless you for a real damn boating post!
I'd skip the electric water pump. People are much more conservative if they
have to work a little for the water and carrying 5 gallon jerry cans sucks.
I have a manual pump for my galley and it really stretches my 20 gallon
water tank
and really like these for showers
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|26832|319660&id=566122
Buy 2, keeps the other person honest (only use her own), don't have to wait
hours to reheat, and no moving parts!
Sound like it's coming together!


Sounds like some good advice about the manual pumps;) Keep 'em honest!
Anyway, my buds use a sun shower type unit at the races, say it works
fine and heats up pretty well. Theirs is black plastic.

Scotty

--
For a great time, go here first...
http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v

John H[_2_] March 30th 10 06:21 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:

OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.

I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an electric pump to a
hand held shower head. I figure I'm adding about 300 + lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) but the boat
has a weight load on the spec tag of 950 lb.

Now I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs comes next) etc.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.

And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.


How long are you planning to be out for one trip? A good cooler will keep stuff
cold for four or five days, and weigh a lot less than 50 pounds (empty).
--
John H

For a great time, go here first... http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v

jamesgangnc[_2_] March 30th 10 08:04 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 30, 1:21*pm, John H wrote:
On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:
OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, *but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.


I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an *electric pump to a
hand held shower head. *I figure I'm adding about 300 + *lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) *but the boat
has a weight load *on the spec tag of 950 lb.


Now *I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs *comes next) etc.


Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.


And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.


How long are you planning to be out for one trip? A good cooler will keep stuff
cold for four or five days, and weigh a lot less than 50 pounds (empty).
--
John H

For a great time, go here first...http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I moved my battery up to the front but it's not without it's flaws.
The front takes a good deal more banging around and I've discovered
that cheaper batteries won't tolerate it. You end up with a dead cell
because the plates got knocked together.

Tim March 30th 10 08:56 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 30, 1:04*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Mar 30, 1:21*pm, John H wrote:





On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:
OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, *but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.


I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an *electric pump to a
hand held shower head. *I figure I'm adding about 300 + *lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) *but the boat
has a weight load *on the spec tag of 950 lb.


Now *I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs *comes next) etc.


Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.


And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.


How long are you planning to be out for one trip? A good cooler will keep stuff
cold for four or five days, and weigh a lot less than 50 pounds (empty)..
--
John H


For a great time, go here first...http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v-Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


I moved my battery up to the front but it's not without it's flaws.
The front takes a good deal more banging around and I've discovered
that cheaper batteries won't tolerate it. *You end up with a dead cell
because the plates got knocked together.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -



I wasn't thinking on moving them all the way up. I want to leave my
ngine battery where it is and at least move a couple auxillaries mid
way. I'm thinking that keeping the majority of the weight in the
center of the boat is the way to go, but it could cause too much of a
nose weight for lower moderate speed planing. or at least that's my
thoughts.

Tim March 30th 10 08:59 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 30, 11:21*am, John H wrote:
On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:
OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, *but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.


I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an *electric pump to a
hand held shower head. *I figure I'm adding about 300 + *lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) *but the boat
has a weight load *on the spec tag of 950 lb.


Now *I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs *comes next) etc.


Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.


And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.


How long are you planning to be out for one trip? A good cooler will keep stuff
cold for four or five days, and weigh a lot less than 50 pounds (empty).
--
John H

For a great time, go here first...http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


John, that's to be determined yet. possibly 200 miles and maybe 3-4
days. In another thread I brought this up about using dry ice in a
cooler, because to me it's repulsive to have food stuffs float around
in ice water even if you use those little resealable containers.and
I've found out from in the past that if the upper part of the
container is exposed to air in the cooler it's not really cold.

Tim March 30th 10 09:02 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 30, 9:26*am, "mmc" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message

...





OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, *but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance..
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.


I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an *electric pump to a
hand held shower head. *I figure I'm adding about 300 + *lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) *but the boat
has a weight load *on the spec tag of 950 lb.


Now *I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs *comes next) etc.


Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.


And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.


Brother Tim! Bless you for a real damn boating post!


That's all I try to do, man. It seems that boating posts should be in
a boating newsgroup.

?;^ )

I'd skip the electric water pump. People are much more conservative if they
have to work a little for the water and carrying 5 gallon jerry cans sucks.


Yeah, I ahve some jerry cans but they're to heavy, but I couldn't
believe it when the wife said we could carry some fresh water in
gallon milk jugs (huh?) but sounds good to me.

I have a manual pump for my galley and it really stretches my 20 gallon
water tank
and really like these for showershttp://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|26832|319660&id=566122
Buy 2, keeps the other person honest (only use her own), don't have to wait
hours to reheat, and no moving parts!
Sound like it's coming together!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Thanks for the encouragement. and all advice is taken into
consideration. I'll be checking out the link when I get home.

Tim March 30th 10 09:44 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 30, 11:21*am, John H wrote:
On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:
OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, *but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.


I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an *electric pump to a
hand held shower head. *I figure I'm adding about 300 + *lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) *but the boat
has a weight load *on the spec tag of 950 lb.


Now *I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs *comes next) etc.


Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.


And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.


How long are you planning to be out for one trip? A good cooler will keep stuff
cold for four or five days, and weigh a lot less than 50 pounds (empty).
--
John H

For a great time, go here first...http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


John, the boat has 'captains' chairs in the front and the pilot side
is ok, but we're thinking on pulling the port side chair and
installing the fridge in it's own dedicatated and insulated cabinet
under it then putting a short chair pedistal and chair on top of it.
Actually from what I can tell this fridge is actually 120v with it's
own built in power inverter to convert from 12 DC to 120 AC. But it's
all self contained and water proof.

This is to utilize the space better instead of having a big cooler or
the fridge hanging out where you have to walk around it or me trip
over it (yes I'm clumsy!) Power is provided to it though the
auxillary batteries and those in turn are charged via a battery
isolator which will feed them and the engine battery off the
alternator. at the refridgerators 3.5 A draw, the auxiallry batteries
should be good to run the fridge over night that is if it doesn't need
to run 24-7, and the least that can happen is the fridge can run the
aux. batteries dead and still leave the engine battery alone. Start
the boat and you charge the engine and aux batteries at the same time.

Anyhow, We'd still be taking a cooler to keep the drinking water and
juice etc in and the food stuffs in the ice box.

Anyhow, that's my views concerning using a 12v refridgerator instead
of a cooler for main stay refridgeration.

Oh yeah, If we can hhole up at a marina with shore power for a night,
we can plug the box right in at the dock.

Tim March 30th 10 10:04 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 30, 11:21*am, John H wrote:

How long are you planning to be out for one trip?


John, the length of the trip may be determined by the weight of the
credit card.

?;^ Q

hk March 30th 10 10:28 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On 3/30/10 4:02 PM, Tim wrote:

Yeah, I ahve some jerry cans but they're to heavy, but I couldn't
believe it when the wife said we could carry some fresh water in
gallon milk jugs (huh?) but sounds good to me.


Plastic milk jugs are made of very thin-walled plastic, and can't take
much of a hit before they puncture. Why not buy two six packs of one
pint water bottles, save the bottles as you drink the water, and then
wash them off and refill them?

My little Parker has a 20 or 25 gallon insulated baitwell under the
pedestal seats. But when I have live bait, I keep it in a separate
baitwell, which means the bigger baitwell is available for use as a
cooler. I dump a couple bags of ice in it and stow drinks in it. At the
end of the day, I simply pull the unopened drinks out and let the
baitwell drain on its own accord. I keep my refilled water bottles in
there.

I also have a few igloo coolers of various sizes, and typically take one
of the smaller ones aboard for food storage.





--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Tim March 30th 10 10:35 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 30, 3:28*pm, hk wrote:
On 3/30/10 4:02 PM, Tim wrote:

Yeah, I ahve some jerry cans but they're to heavy, but I couldn't
believe it when the wife said we could carry some fresh water in
gallon milk jugs (huh?) but sounds good to me.


Plastic milk jugs are made of very thin-walled plastic, and can't take
much of a hit before they puncture. Why not buy two six packs of one
pint water bottles, save the bottles as you drink the water, and then
wash them off and refill them?

My little Parker has a 20 or 25 gallon insulated baitwell under the
pedestal seats. But when I have live bait, I keep it in a separate
baitwell, which means the bigger baitwell is available for use as a
cooler. I dump a couple bags of ice in it and stow drinks in it. At the
end of the day, I simply pull the unopened drinks out and let the
baitwell drain on its own accord. I keep my refilled water bottles in
there.

I also have a few igloo coolers of various sizes, and typically take one
of the smaller ones aboard for food storage.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym


Well that's what I was thinking about the milk jugs. And really I was
surprised that she mentioned it, because it really seemed below her
order of things to offer the suggestion. Plus, the idea is to keep the
interior as un- cluttered ans possible. That's why I'm thinking on
going with a couple of thin line 5 gal. heavy plastic containers with
either an electric or air pump and using a shower nozzle for supply.

Yes, keep the drinking water in the cooler!

hk March 30th 10 10:40 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On 3/30/10 5:35 PM, Tim wrote:
On Mar 30, 3:28 pm, wrote:
On 3/30/10 4:02 PM, Tim wrote:

Yeah, I ahve some jerry cans but they're to heavy, but I couldn't
believe it when the wife said we could carry some fresh water in
gallon milk jugs (huh?) but sounds good to me.


Plastic milk jugs are made of very thin-walled plastic, and can't take
much of a hit before they puncture. Why not buy two six packs of one
pint water bottles, save the bottles as you drink the water, and then
wash them off and refill them?

My little Parker has a 20 or 25 gallon insulated baitwell under the
pedestal seats. But when I have live bait, I keep it in a separate
baitwell, which means the bigger baitwell is available for use as a
cooler. I dump a couple bags of ice in it and stow drinks in it. At the
end of the day, I simply pull the unopened drinks out and let the
baitwell drain on its own accord. I keep my refilled water bottles in
there.

I also have a few igloo coolers of various sizes, and typically take one
of the smaller ones aboard for food storage.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym


Well that's what I was thinking about the milk jugs. And really I was
surprised that she mentioned it, because it really seemed below her
order of things to offer the suggestion. Plus, the idea is to keep the
interior as un- cluttered ans possible. That's why I'm thinking on
going with a couple of thin line 5 gal. heavy plastic containers with
either an electric or air pump and using a shower nozzle for supply.

Yes, keep the drinking water in the cooler!



I prefer the sealed one-pinters for water...I know the water inside is
clean and I wash the bottles carefully after use. No pumps, no air hose,
no nozzle.




--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Peter Prick March 30th 10 11:05 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
In article 016d6338-c291-4c83-8c2e-13e3656c4b78@
33g2000yqj.googlegroups.com, says...


Well that's what I was thinking about the milk jugs. And really I was
surprised that she mentioned it, because it really seemed below her
order of things to offer the suggestion. Plus, the idea is to keep the
interior as un- cluttered ans possible. That's why I'm thinking on
going with a couple of thin line 5 gal. heavy plastic containers with
either an electric or air pump and using a shower nozzle for supply.

Yes, keep the drinking water in the cooler!



Nothing wrong with gallon milk jugs, and a lot right with them.
I've had plastic milk jugs full of water bounce around in my car trunk
for years. They're tough enough.
Big advantage is they're square, so don't waste space like a bunch or
little round bottles.
Just have to make sure they fit in your cooler.
Shower bags are fine too, and collapsing as they shed water is an
advantage. But you need a larger intial space, and can't store in nooks
and crannies like you can with milk jugs.
Your wife has common sense. That's also a plus.

Larry[_11_] March 31st 10 12:01 AM

Boat weight distribution..
 
jamesgangnc wrote:
On Mar 30, 1:21 pm, John wrote:

On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.


I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an electric pump to a
hand held shower head. I figure I'm adding about 300 + lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) but the boat
has a weight load on the spec tag of 950 lb.


Now I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs comes next) etc.


Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.


And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.

How long are you planning to be out for one trip? A good cooler will keep stuff
cold for four or five days, and weigh a lot less than 50 pounds (empty).
--
John H

For a great time, go here first...http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I moved my battery up to the front but it's not without it's flaws.
The front takes a good deal more banging around and I've discovered
that cheaper batteries won't tolerate it. You end up with a dead cell
because the plates got knocked together.

Maybe a Gel battery will solve that problem?

Tim March 31st 10 03:49 AM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 30, 9:41*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:59:16 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

John, that's to be determined yet. possibly 200 miles and maybe 3-4
days. In another thread I brought this up about using dry ice in a
cooler, because to me it's repulsive to have food stuffs float around
in ice water even if you use those little resealable containers.and
I've found out from in the past that if the upper part of the
container is exposed to air in the cooler it's not really cold.


One of our hurricane tricks is to stuff the freezer with bottles of
water before the show, then you have mass that takes a long time to
thaw out, when the power goes out. That gives you plenty of "cold" and
when they melt you still have bottles of water. These bottles are also
great in a cooler for all the same reasons. You also don't have that
slimy water sloshing around. You can put your perishables in the
bottom and stack the frozen bottles on top.


Excellent idea Greg. I had previously thought of that, only
experimenting with half gal. jugs.to line the top of a cooler. I've
also got a bunch of ice substitute freeze blocks.

Bill McKee March 31st 10 04:47 AM

Boat weight distribution..
 

"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Mar 30, 9:41 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:59:16 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

John, that's to be determined yet. possibly 200 miles and maybe 3-4
days. In another thread I brought this up about using dry ice in a
cooler, because to me it's repulsive to have food stuffs float around
in ice water even if you use those little resealable containers.and
I've found out from in the past that if the upper part of the
container is exposed to air in the cooler it's not really cold.


One of our hurricane tricks is to stuff the freezer with bottles of
water before the show, then you have mass that takes a long time to
thaw out, when the power goes out. That gives you plenty of "cold" and
when they melt you still have bottles of water. These bottles are also
great in a cooler for all the same reasons. You also don't have that
slimy water sloshing around. You can put your perishables in the
bottom and stack the frozen bottles on top.


Excellent idea Greg. I had previously thought of that, only
experimenting with half gal. jugs.to line the top of a cooler. I've
also got a bunch of ice substitute freeze blocks.

My cooler will keep ice 5 days, as long as you do not open it a lot. I
always use frozen water bottles, both small and 2L size. Use 2 coolers. A
large one with the frozen stuff and a smaller one which you keep drinks and
stuff for the day in. Then the large one gets opened very few times.



I am Tosk March 31st 10 09:15 AM

Boat weight distribution..
 
In article ,
says...

On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:

OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.

I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an electric pump to a
hand held shower head. I figure I'm adding about 300 + lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) but the boat
has a weight load on the spec tag of 950 lb.

Now I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs comes next) etc.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.

And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.


How long are you planning to be out for one trip? A good cooler will keep stuff
cold for four or five days, and weigh a lot less than 50 pounds (empty).


I have great coolers and they are good for a day and a half maybe unless
you keep filling the ice. I don't know where you use your coolers but I
am out in 95 degree sun and very little shade in the summer, kind of
like in a boat;)

Scotty

--
For a great time, go here first...
http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v

Peter Prick March 31st 10 12:11 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
In article bc0512fe-d20e-4f71-b23d-
, says...

On Mar 30, 9:41*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:59:16 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

John, that's to be determined yet. possibly 200 miles and maybe 3-4
days. In another thread I brought this up about using dry ice in a
cooler, because to me it's repulsive to have food stuffs float around
in ice water even if you use those little resealable containers.and
I've found out from in the past that if the upper part of the
container is exposed to air in the cooler it's not really cold.


One of our hurricane tricks is to stuff the freezer with bottles of
water before the show, then you have mass that takes a long time to
thaw out, when the power goes out. That gives you plenty of "cold" and
when they melt you still have bottles of water. These bottles are also
great in a cooler for all the same reasons. You also don't have that
slimy water sloshing around. You can put your perishables in the
bottom and stack the frozen bottles on top.


Excellent idea Greg. I had previously thought of that, only
experimenting with half gal. jugs.to line the top of a cooler. I've
also got a bunch of ice substitute freeze blocks.


If you're drinking or otherwise using the water, go with that.
I've read the freezable chemicals can absorb more heat, but never
noticed a difference in actual use.

Tim March 31st 10 12:43 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 31, 5:11*am, Peter Prick wrote:
In article bc0512fe-d20e-4f71-b23d-
, says...







On Mar 30, 9:41 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:59:16 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:


John, that's to be determined yet. possibly 200 miles and maybe 3-4
days. In another thread I brought this up about using dry ice in a
cooler, because to me it's repulsive to have food stuffs float around
in ice water even if you use those little resealable containers.and
I've found out from in the past that if the upper part of the
container is exposed to air in the cooler it's not really cold.


One of our hurricane tricks is to stuff the freezer with bottles of
water before the show, then you have mass that takes a long time to
thaw out, when the power goes out. That gives you plenty of "cold" and
when they melt you still have bottles of water. These bottles are also
great in a cooler for all the same reasons. You also don't have that
slimy water sloshing around. You can put your perishables in the
bottom and stack the frozen bottles on top.


Excellent idea Greg. I had previously thought of that, only
experimenting with half gal. jugs.to line the top of a cooler. I've
also got a bunch of ice substitute freeze blocks.


If you're drinking or otherwise using the water, go with that.
I've read the freezable chemicals can absorb more heat, but never
noticed a difference in actual use.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Same here. They are compact and from what I've noticed is they do last
a bit longer than regular ice. so I suppose it would be good to put
them in the bottom of the cooler and as Greg suggested put the
perishables in the center then top the cooler with either more ice
packs or botles of frozen water.

hk March 31st 10 12:45 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On 3/31/10 7:43 AM, Tim wrote:
On Mar 31, 5:11 am, Peter wrote:
In articlebc0512fe-d20e-4f71-b23d-
, says...







On Mar 30, 9:41 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:59:16 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:


John, that's to be determined yet. possibly 200 miles and maybe 3-4
days. In another thread I brought this up about using dry ice in a
cooler, because to me it's repulsive to have food stuffs float around
in ice water even if you use those little resealable containers.and
I've found out from in the past that if the upper part of the
container is exposed to air in the cooler it's not really cold.


One of our hurricane tricks is to stuff the freezer with bottles of
water before the show, then you have mass that takes a long time to
thaw out, when the power goes out. That gives you plenty of "cold" and
when they melt you still have bottles of water. These bottles are also
great in a cooler for all the same reasons. You also don't have that
slimy water sloshing around. You can put your perishables in the
bottom and stack the frozen bottles on top.


Excellent idea Greg. I had previously thought of that, only
experimenting with half gal. jugs.to line the top of a cooler. I've
also got a bunch of ice substitute freeze blocks.


If you're drinking or otherwise using the water, go with that.
I've read the freezable chemicals can absorb more heat, but never
noticed a difference in actual use.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Same here. They are compact and from what I've noticed is they do last
a bit longer than regular ice. so I suppose it would be good to put
them in the bottom of the cooler and as Greg suggested put the
perishables in the center then top the cooler with either more ice
packs or botles of frozen water.


Are you planning trips of many days duration?

My igloo coolers will keep ice and keep food fresh for a few days, even
in our 90F heat here in the summer.





--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Tim March 31st 10 12:52 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 31, 5:45*am, hk wrote:
On 3/31/10 7:43 AM, Tim wrote:





On Mar 31, 5:11 am, Peter *wrote:
In articlebc0512fe-d20e-4f71-b23d-
, says....


On Mar 30, 9:41 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:59:16 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:


John, that's to be determined yet. possibly 200 miles and maybe 3-4
days. In another thread I brought this up about using dry ice in a
cooler, because to me it's repulsive to have food stuffs float around
in ice water even if you use those little resealable containers.and
I've found out from in the past that if the upper part of the
container is exposed to air in the cooler it's not really cold.


One of our hurricane tricks is to stuff the freezer with bottles of
water before the show, then you have mass that takes a long time to
thaw out, when the power goes out. That gives you plenty of "cold" and
when they melt you still have bottles of water. These bottles are also
great in a cooler for all the same reasons. You also don't have that
slimy water sloshing around. You can put your perishables in the
bottom and stack the frozen bottles on top.


Excellent idea Greg. I had previously thought of that, only
experimenting with half gal. jugs.to line the top of a cooler. I've
also got a bunch of ice substitute freeze blocks.


If you're drinking or otherwise using the water, go with that.
I've read the freezable chemicals can absorb more heat, but never
noticed a difference in actual use.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Same here. They are compact and from what I've noticed is they do last
a bit longer than regular ice. so I suppose it would be good to put
them in the bottom of the cooler and as Greg suggested put the
perishables in the center then top the cooler with either more ice
packs or botles of frozen water.


Are you planning trips of many days duration?

My igloo coolers will keep ice and keep food fresh for a few days, even
in our 90F heat here in the summer.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Harry, the trip we're planning may be for about 3or maybe 4 days, but
as I mentioned before. The length of the trip is determined by the
weight of the credit card.

?;^ )

hk March 31st 10 01:08 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On 3/31/10 7:52 AM, Tim wrote:
On Mar 31, 5:45 am, wrote:
On 3/31/10 7:43 AM, Tim wrote:





On Mar 31, 5:11 am, Peter wrote:
In articlebc0512fe-d20e-4f71-b23d-
, says...


On Mar 30, 9:41 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:59:16 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:


John, that's to be determined yet. possibly 200 miles and maybe 3-4
days. In another thread I brought this up about using dry ice in a
cooler, because to me it's repulsive to have food stuffs float around
in ice water even if you use those little resealable containers.and
I've found out from in the past that if the upper part of the
container is exposed to air in the cooler it's not really cold.


One of our hurricane tricks is to stuff the freezer with bottles of
water before the show, then you have mass that takes a long time to
thaw out, when the power goes out. That gives you plenty of "cold" and
when they melt you still have bottles of water. These bottles are also
great in a cooler for all the same reasons. You also don't have that
slimy water sloshing around. You can put your perishables in the
bottom and stack the frozen bottles on top.


Excellent idea Greg. I had previously thought of that, only
experimenting with half gal. jugs.to line the top of a cooler. I've
also got a bunch of ice substitute freeze blocks.


If you're drinking or otherwise using the water, go with that.
I've read the freezable chemicals can absorb more heat, but never
noticed a difference in actual use.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Same here. They are compact and from what I've noticed is they do last
a bit longer than regular ice. so I suppose it would be good to put
them in the bottom of the cooler and as Greg suggested put the
perishables in the center then top the cooler with either more ice
packs or botles of frozen water.


Are you planning trips of many days duration?

My igloo coolers will keep ice and keep food fresh for a few days, even
in our 90F heat here in the summer.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Harry, the trip we're planning may be for about 3or maybe 4 days, but
as I mentioned before. The length of the trip is determined by the
weight of the credit card.

?;^ )



Well, then, I think you are making this more complicated than it need
be. If you are traveling and paying your way with plastic, that means
you're going to be docking...and almost every place you might dock and
use a credit card sells...guess what...ICE!

I can't recall a commercial dock/marina I've visited that didn't have
ice for sale on the premises, or at a store within a very short walking
radius.



--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Tim March 31st 10 01:24 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 31, 6:08*am, hk wrote:
On 3/31/10 7:52 AM, Tim wrote:





On Mar 31, 5:45 am, *wrote:
On 3/31/10 7:43 AM, Tim wrote:


On Mar 31, 5:11 am, Peter * *wrote:
In articlebc0512fe-d20e-4f71-b23d-
, says....


On Mar 30, 9:41 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:59:16 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:


John, that's to be determined yet. possibly 200 miles and maybe 3-4
days. In another thread I brought this up about using dry ice in a
cooler, because to me it's repulsive to have food stuffs float around
in ice water even if you use those little resealable containers.and
I've found out from in the past that if the upper part of the
container is exposed to air in the cooler it's not really cold.


One of our hurricane tricks is to stuff the freezer with bottles of
water before the show, then you have mass that takes a long time to
thaw out, when the power goes out. That gives you plenty of "cold" and
when they melt you still have bottles of water. These bottles are also
great in a cooler for all the same reasons. You also don't have that
slimy water sloshing around. You can put your perishables in the
bottom and stack the frozen bottles on top.


Excellent idea Greg. I had previously thought of that, only
experimenting with half gal. jugs.to line the top of a cooler. I've
also got a bunch of ice substitute freeze blocks.


If you're drinking or otherwise using the water, go with that.
I've read the freezable chemicals can absorb more heat, but never
noticed a difference in actual use.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Same here. They are compact and from what I've noticed is they do last
a bit longer than regular ice. so I suppose it would be good to put
them in the bottom of the cooler and as Greg suggested put the
perishables in the center then top the cooler with either more ice
packs or botles of frozen water.


Are you planning trips of many days duration?


My igloo coolers will keep ice and keep food fresh for a few days, even
in our 90F heat here in the summer.


--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym-Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Harry, the trip we're planning may be for about 3or maybe 4 days, but
as I mentioned before. The length of the trip is determined by the
weight of the credit card.


?;^ )


Well, then, I think you are making this more complicated than it need
be. If you are traveling and paying your way with plastic, that means
you're going to be docking...and almost every place you might dock and
use a credit card sells...guess what...ICE!

I can't recall a commercial dock/marina I've visited that didn't have
ice for sale on the premises, or at a store within a very short walking
radius.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


True. and knowing the wife. Well, I'm thinking I know the wife she'll
object to sleeping ont he boat and want a motel and resteraunt
somewhere along the line. That's why I thought it was odd that she of
all people would suggest carying water in milk jugs.


go figgah!

mmc March 31st 10 03:30 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 

"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Mar 30, 3:28 pm, hk wrote:
On 3/30/10 4:02 PM, Tim wrote:

Yeah, I ahve some jerry cans but they're to heavy, but I couldn't
believe it when the wife said we could carry some fresh water in
gallon milk jugs (huh?) but sounds good to me.


Plastic milk jugs are made of very thin-walled plastic, and can't take
much of a hit before they puncture. Why not buy two six packs of one
pint water bottles, save the bottles as you drink the water, and then
wash them off and refill them?

My little Parker has a 20 or 25 gallon insulated baitwell under the
pedestal seats. But when I have live bait, I keep it in a separate
baitwell, which means the bigger baitwell is available for use as a
cooler. I dump a couple bags of ice in it and stow drinks in it. At the
end of the day, I simply pull the unopened drinks out and let the
baitwell drain on its own accord. I keep my refilled water bottles in
there.

I also have a few igloo coolers of various sizes, and typically take one
of the smaller ones aboard for food storage.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym


Well that's what I was thinking about the milk jugs. And really I was
surprised that she mentioned it, because it really seemed below her
order of things to offer the suggestion. Plus, the idea is to keep the
interior as un- cluttered ans possible. That's why I'm thinking on
going with a couple of thin line 5 gal. heavy plastic containers with
either an electric or air pump and using a shower nozzle for supply.

Yes, keep the drinking water in the cooler!

--------

We freeze gallon jugs of juice and milk for camping and boating trips (also
chicken and meat) and use this to keep other (non frozen) foods cold. We use
everything as it thaws and this saves on ice and cuts out the water pooling
in the bottom of the coolers..



Tim March 31st 10 03:38 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 31, 6:08*am, hk wrote:
On 3/31/10 7:52 AM, Tim wrote:





On Mar 31, 5:45 am, *wrote:
On 3/31/10 7:43 AM, Tim wrote:


On Mar 31, 5:11 am, Peter * *wrote:
In articlebc0512fe-d20e-4f71-b23d-
, says....


On Mar 30, 9:41 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:59:16 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:


John, that's to be determined yet. possibly 200 miles and maybe 3-4
days. In another thread I brought this up about using dry ice in a
cooler, because to me it's repulsive to have food stuffs float around
in ice water even if you use those little resealable containers.and
I've found out from in the past that if the upper part of the
container is exposed to air in the cooler it's not really cold.


One of our hurricane tricks is to stuff the freezer with bottles of
water before the show, then you have mass that takes a long time to
thaw out, when the power goes out. That gives you plenty of "cold" and
when they melt you still have bottles of water. These bottles are also
great in a cooler for all the same reasons. You also don't have that
slimy water sloshing around. You can put your perishables in the
bottom and stack the frozen bottles on top.


Excellent idea Greg. I had previously thought of that, only
experimenting with half gal. jugs.to line the top of a cooler. I've
also got a bunch of ice substitute freeze blocks.


If you're drinking or otherwise using the water, go with that.
I've read the freezable chemicals can absorb more heat, but never
noticed a difference in actual use.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Same here. They are compact and from what I've noticed is they do last
a bit longer than regular ice. so I suppose it would be good to put
them in the bottom of the cooler and as Greg suggested put the
perishables in the center then top the cooler with either more ice
packs or botles of frozen water.


Are you planning trips of many days duration?


My igloo coolers will keep ice and keep food fresh for a few days, even
in our 90F heat here in the summer.


--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym-Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Harry, the trip we're planning may be for about 3or maybe 4 days, but
as I mentioned before. The length of the trip is determined by the
weight of the credit card.


?;^ )


Well, then, I think you are making this more complicated than it need
be. If you are traveling and paying your way with plastic, that means
you're going to be docking...and almost every place you might dock and
use a credit card sells...guess what...ICE!

But actually Harry, that's what I'm wanting to get away from, is using
ICE. I'm not really objecting to it, I would jsut rather not if I can
ge3t by without it.

mmc March 31st 10 03:47 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 

"I am Tosk" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.

I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an electric pump to a
hand held shower head. I figure I'm adding about 300 + lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) but the boat
has a weight load on the spec tag of 950 lb.

Now I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs comes next) etc.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.

And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.


How long are you planning to be out for one trip? A good cooler will keep
stuff
cold for four or five days, and weigh a lot less than 50 pounds (empty).


I have great coolers and they are good for a day and a half maybe unless
you keep filling the ice. I don't know where you use your coolers but I
am out in 95 degree sun and very little shade in the summer, kind of
like in a boat;)

Scotty

--
For a great time, go here first...
http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v


Scotty,
Ever use one of those folding canopies? If there is room at the track, these
things are great for keeping people and coolers - cooler than sitting in
direct sun.
We use one anytime we're at an outdoor event (like birthday parties at the
beach) and it's a life saver. Ours has the folding frame and rollup screen
walls to keep the bugs out in the evenings.



I am Tosk March 31st 10 04:25 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
In article d39a1c08-6d8f-4043-a3fa-33d1d56b501b@
33g2000yqj.googlegroups.com, says...

On Mar 31, 6:08*am, hk wrote:
On 3/31/10 7:52 AM, Tim wrote:





On Mar 31, 5:45 am, *wrote:
On 3/31/10 7:43 AM, Tim wrote:


On Mar 31, 5:11 am, Peter * *wrote:
In articlebc0512fe-d20e-4f71-b23d-
, says...


On Mar 30, 9:41 pm, wrote:
On Tue, 30 Mar 2010 12:59:16 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:


John, that's to be determined yet. possibly 200 miles and maybe 3-4
days. In another thread I brought this up about using dry ice in a
cooler, because to me it's repulsive to have food stuffs float around
in ice water even if you use those little resealable containers.and
I've found out from in the past that if the upper part of the
container is exposed to air in the cooler it's not really cold.


One of our hurricane tricks is to stuff the freezer with bottles of
water before the show, then you have mass that takes a long time to
thaw out, when the power goes out. That gives you plenty of "cold" and
when they melt you still have bottles of water. These bottles are also
great in a cooler for all the same reasons. You also don't have that
slimy water sloshing around. You can put your perishables in the
bottom and stack the frozen bottles on top.


Excellent idea Greg. I had previously thought of that, only
experimenting with half gal. jugs.to line the top of a cooler. I've
also got a bunch of ice substitute freeze blocks.


If you're drinking or otherwise using the water, go with that.
I've read the freezable chemicals can absorb more heat, but never
noticed a difference in actual use.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Same here. They are compact and from what I've noticed is they do last
a bit longer than regular ice. so I suppose it would be good to put
them in the bottom of the cooler and as Greg suggested put the
perishables in the center then top the cooler with either more ice
packs or botles of frozen water.


Are you planning trips of many days duration?


My igloo coolers will keep ice and keep food fresh for a few days, even
in our 90F heat here in the summer.


--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym-Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Harry, the trip we're planning may be for about 3or maybe 4 days, but
as I mentioned before. The length of the trip is determined by the
weight of the credit card.


?;^ )


Well, then, I think you are making this more complicated than it need
be. If you are traveling and paying your way with plastic, that means
you're going to be docking...and almost every place you might dock and
use a credit card sells...guess what...ICE!

But actually Harry, that's what I'm wanting to get away from, is using
ICE. I'm not really objecting to it, I would jsut rather not if I can
ge3t by without it.


Well, I do a lot of two to three day camp-outs with limited space too.
We carry three coolers really. The big one has drinks, probably start a
weekend with 40 bottles of water and juice and beer for the end of the
weekend. That one is full of ice and it's just nicer to reach in a
cooler of ice/water and bottles than a dry cold cooler in my opinion on
a scorching hot day. We usually keep a Tupperware or two in there with
clean ice too for drinks, again, nice in the hot weather. The cold food
cooler uses blue freeze packs and anything going in there is frozen too
if possible. That cooler stays pretty dry and stuff thaws as you need it
really. When we are going for more than one day we pack several vacuum
packs full of stew, or pork and beans, ribs, etc. in the cooler and all
you need to do is boil some water and throw the bag in. The third cooler
is the non-perishable dry goods like cereals, breads, condiments,
crackers, snacks, etc...

A typical 3 day starts days before with loading up with good food and
lot's of fluids. This is very important to stay sharp as no matter what
you do, your eating schedule will change for a few days, so build up
that energy. Big carb load the night before the trip too. The day of the
trip we eat a great breakfast (eggs, cereal, breakfast meat, toast, jam,
juice, etc.) and usually get a quick lunch on the road. Snacks on day
one usually consist of something like a bag of microwave pop-corn or
similar. After that, less junk food as the weekend progresses, but we
are racing, not riding down the river. Either way, you still want to
stay sharp and fed. Dinner on day one is usually a home made foot long
grinder or two, made fresh the morning of the trip. That is nice on the
first night while setting up to have a hand held meal and not have to
cook anything.

Bacon and eggs are great and filling, but really, a big meal to cook and
clean at the campsite so I usually only plan one B+E breakfast. I
usually mix up some Aunt Jamima instant pancake mix and put it in an old
ketchup bottle and just pop the top and you have quick easy, no clean,
pancakes too right from the squeeze bottle. BTW, the canned whip cream
propelled stuff is gross, don't buy it in my opinion. Dry cereal or
instant oatmeal serves well the other two days. Remember you have been
eating hearty all week to prepare so you won't starve for anything. Not
a lot of getting around burgers and dogs or brats (which freeze very
well and many times come in ez-close bags) for lunches so you need to
pack a few of them in the frozen cooler for each person, each day.
Dinners are when the precooked vacuum packed dinner comes out. You can
have a few baggies of biscuits or something in your dry storage cooler
to have with the stew, beans, ribs, whatever you put in your vacuum
packs. Easy boil cook, no clean up but the dinner bowls. We also carry a
bag of grated cheese for the weekend, it can make it's presence known at
any meal while camping.

As to your thought about dry ice I have several problems. First,
dangerous in our area with so many kids reaching into coolers. Second,
the way I set up the frozen cooler, stuff is thawing over the three
days. If I had dry ice, nothing would ever thaw enough to eat;) The
downside is you do have to restock ice here and there over a three day
weekend. A typical weekend for me is about 7 bags of ice, at what, $2.50
each? Personally, I have seen a lot of folks camping and never really
noticed any of the more experienced using dry ice. On the other hand, I
did read about one guy on a group that was able to get dry ice cubes in
bulk, that is something I wouldn't mind experimenting with for a while,
just to line the coolers...

Anyway, that's the way I address food on our racing weekends, just
thought I would pass it along.. Didn't frekin' know it was gonna' turn
into a frekin' book thought, I got blisters on me fingers!!!!!!

Scotty

--
For a great time, go here first...
http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v

I am Tosk March 31st 10 04:30 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
In article m,
says...

"I am Tosk" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about 130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, but I can distribute them around the hull for a better balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.

I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an electric pump to a
hand held shower head. I figure I'm adding about 300 + lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) but the boat
has a weight load on the spec tag of 950 lb.

Now I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs comes next) etc.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10 gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.

And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still be
under the weight limit on the boat.

How long are you planning to be out for one trip? A good cooler will keep
stuff
cold for four or five days, and weigh a lot less than 50 pounds (empty).


I have great coolers and they are good for a day and a half maybe unless
you keep filling the ice. I don't know where you use your coolers but I
am out in 95 degree sun and very little shade in the summer, kind of
like in a boat;)

Scotty

--
For a great time, go here first...
http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v


Scotty,
Ever use one of those folding canopies? If there is room at the track, these
things are great for keeping people and coolers - cooler than sitting in
direct sun.
We use one anytime we're at an outdoor event (like birthday parties at the
beach) and it's a life saver. Ours has the folding frame and rollup screen
walls to keep the bugs out in the evenings.


Yes, I do have one with the sides too but somethimes it's just over
there and the cooler is over here for now;) I am not sure how long you
have been reading but my daughter, I and our race team spend weekends
out in the middle of nowhere, usually on top of some dusty old hill,
rain, mud, whatever, and we go racin' dirtbikes! Sounds funny, but
sometimes you don't even have time to worry about if the cooler is being
moved all day out of the sun;) Most times actually, the big one stays
right in the back of the truck so that get's real hot during the day,
but we try. My new coleman, huge thing like four feet wide, does a bit
better than our older coolers, I bet if I kept it out of direct sunlight
it could keep ice a few days...

Scotty

--
For a great time, go here first... http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v

Tim March 31st 10 04:36 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 31, 8:30*am, "mmc" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message

...
On Mar 30, 3:28 pm, hk wrote:





On 3/30/10 4:02 PM, Tim wrote:


Yeah, I ahve some jerry cans but they're to heavy, but I couldn't
believe it when the wife said we could carry some fresh water in
gallon milk jugs (huh?) but sounds good to me.


Plastic milk jugs are made of very thin-walled plastic, and can't take
much of a hit before they puncture. Why not buy two six packs of one
pint water bottles, save the bottles as you drink the water, and then
wash them off and refill them?


My little Parker has a 20 or 25 gallon insulated baitwell under the
pedestal seats. But when I have live bait, I keep it in a separate
baitwell, which means the bigger baitwell is available for use as a
cooler. I dump a couple bags of ice in it and stow drinks in it. At the
end of the day, I simply pull the unopened drinks out and let the
baitwell drain on its own accord. I keep my refilled water bottles in
there.


I also have a few igloo coolers of various sizes, and typically take one
of the smaller ones aboard for food storage.


--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym


Well that's what I was thinking about the milk jugs. And really I was
surprised that she mentioned it, because it really seemed below her
order of things to offer the suggestion. Plus, the idea is to keep the
interior as un- cluttered ans possible. That's why I'm thinking on
going with a couple of thin line *5 gal. heavy plastic containers with
either an electric or air pump and using a shower nozzle for supply.

Yes, keep the drinking water in the cooler!

--------

We freeze gallon jugs of juice and milk for camping and boating trips (also
chicken and meat) and use this to keep other (non frozen) foods cold. We use
everything as it thaws and this saves on ice and cuts out the water pooling
in the bottom of the coolers..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Good thinking, man. This is all being taken into consideration. I
would liek to see how my regridgerator will be working out though. If
it doesn't sound practical then coolers it will have to be.

Tim March 31st 10 04:43 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 31, 8:30*am, "mmc" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message

...
On Mar 30, 3:28 pm, hk wrote:





On 3/30/10 4:02 PM, Tim wrote:


Yeah, I ahve some jerry cans but they're to heavy, but I couldn't
believe it when the wife said we could carry some fresh water in
gallon milk jugs (huh?) but sounds good to me.


Plastic milk jugs are made of very thin-walled plastic, and can't take
much of a hit before they puncture. Why not buy two six packs of one
pint water bottles, save the bottles as you drink the water, and then
wash them off and refill them?


My little Parker has a 20 or 25 gallon insulated baitwell under the
pedestal seats. But when I have live bait, I keep it in a separate
baitwell, which means the bigger baitwell is available for use as a
cooler. I dump a couple bags of ice in it and stow drinks in it. At the
end of the day, I simply pull the unopened drinks out and let the
baitwell drain on its own accord. I keep my refilled water bottles in
there.


I also have a few igloo coolers of various sizes, and typically take one
of the smaller ones aboard for food storage.


--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym


Well that's what I was thinking about the milk jugs. And really I was
surprised that she mentioned it, because it really seemed below her
order of things to offer the suggestion. Plus, the idea is to keep the
interior as un- cluttered ans possible. That's why I'm thinking on
going with a couple of thin line *5 gal. heavy plastic containers with
either an electric or air pump and using a shower nozzle for supply.

Yes, keep the drinking water in the cooler!

--------

We freeze gallon jugs of juice and milk for camping and boating trips (also
chicken and meat) and use this to keep other (non frozen) foods cold. We use
everything as it thaws and this saves on ice and cuts out the water pooling
in the bottom of the coolers..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Another reason why I wanted to 'try' to use the fridge is for weight.
50 lb fridge loaded is still lighter than a couple big coolers loaded
with ice etc. and mroe compact too! But then again, using a couple
more batteries etc it may be a toss up. But with the batteries etc I
can space them around th hull to where they're not sitting like a
chunk of lead (pardon the pun) in one spot.

That's what I'm looking for is to take advantage of wasted space and
weight distribution on the boat.

hk March 31st 10 04:49 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On 3/31/10 11:43 AM, Tim wrote:
On Mar 31, 8:30 am, wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Mar 30, 3:28 pm, wrote:





On 3/30/10 4:02 PM, Tim wrote:


Yeah, I ahve some jerry cans but they're to heavy, but I couldn't
believe it when the wife said we could carry some fresh water in
gallon milk jugs (huh?) but sounds good to me.


Plastic milk jugs are made of very thin-walled plastic, and can't take
much of a hit before they puncture. Why not buy two six packs of one
pint water bottles, save the bottles as you drink the water, and then
wash them off and refill them?


My little Parker has a 20 or 25 gallon insulated baitwell under the
pedestal seats. But when I have live bait, I keep it in a separate
baitwell, which means the bigger baitwell is available for use as a
cooler. I dump a couple bags of ice in it and stow drinks in it. At the
end of the day, I simply pull the unopened drinks out and let the
baitwell drain on its own accord. I keep my refilled water bottles in
there.


I also have a few igloo coolers of various sizes, and typically take one
of the smaller ones aboard for food storage.


--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym


Well that's what I was thinking about the milk jugs. And really I was
surprised that she mentioned it, because it really seemed below her
order of things to offer the suggestion. Plus, the idea is to keep the
interior as un- cluttered ans possible. That's why I'm thinking on
going with a couple of thin line 5 gal. heavy plastic containers with
either an electric or air pump and using a shower nozzle for supply.

Yes, keep the drinking water in the cooler!

--------

We freeze gallon jugs of juice and milk for camping and boating trips (also
chicken and meat) and use this to keep other (non frozen) foods cold. We use
everything as it thaws and this saves on ice and cuts out the water pooling
in the bottom of the coolers..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Another reason why I wanted to 'try' to use the fridge is for weight.
50 lb fridge loaded is still lighter than a couple big coolers loaded
with ice etc. and mroe compact too! But then again, using a couple
more batteries etc it may be a toss up. But with the batteries etc I
can space them around th hull to where they're not sitting like a
chunk of lead (pardon the pun) in one spot.

That's what I'm looking for is to take advantage of wasted space and
weight distribution on the boat.



Heheheh. Batteries and wires and chargers everywhere...you should call
Froggy in for a consult!

The only small boat I ever owned with an electric fridge was my 25
Parker. It worked perfectly...I tried it once. But after that, I shut it
off permanently and used it for dry storage.

Ice and coolers...nothing beats them on small boats for day and long
weekend cruising. Very little to go wrong, no batteries, wires, charges
with which to fuss.




--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

mmc March 31st 10 05:11 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 

"I am Tosk" wrote in message
...
In article m,
says...

"I am Tosk" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about
130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra
car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, but I can distribute them around the hull for a better
balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I
can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.

I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an electric pump to a
hand held shower head. I figure I'm adding about 300 + lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) but the boat
has a weight load on the spec tag of 950 lb.

Now I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs comes next) etc.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10
gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.

And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still
be
under the weight limit on the boat.

How long are you planning to be out for one trip? A good cooler will
keep
stuff
cold for four or five days, and weigh a lot less than 50 pounds
(empty).

I have great coolers and they are good for a day and a half maybe
unless
you keep filling the ice. I don't know where you use your coolers but I
am out in 95 degree sun and very little shade in the summer, kind of
like in a boat;)

Scotty

--
For a great time, go here first...
http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v


Scotty,
Ever use one of those folding canopies? If there is room at the track,
these
things are great for keeping people and coolers - cooler than sitting in
direct sun.
We use one anytime we're at an outdoor event (like birthday parties at
the
beach) and it's a life saver. Ours has the folding frame and rollup
screen
walls to keep the bugs out in the evenings.


Yes, I do have one with the sides too but somethimes it's just over
there and the cooler is over here for now;) I am not sure how long you
have been reading but my daughter, I and our race team spend weekends
out in the middle of nowhere, usually on top of some dusty old hill,
rain, mud, whatever, and we go racin' dirtbikes! Sounds funny, but
sometimes you don't even have time to worry about if the cooler is being
moved all day out of the sun;) Most times actually, the big one stays
right in the back of the truck so that get's real hot during the day,
but we try. My new coleman, huge thing like four feet wide, does a bit
better than our older coolers, I bet if I kept it out of direct sunlight
it could keep ice a few days...

Scotty

--
For a great time, go here first... http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v


For some reason I was thinking track racing like MX where you would have
your own pit area with a nice recliner (folding) for dad to rest in the
shade and pull mechanic duties when required....ha!.



mmc March 31st 10 05:19 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 

"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Mar 31, 8:30 am, "mmc" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message

...
On Mar 30, 3:28 pm, hk wrote:





On 3/30/10 4:02 PM, Tim wrote:


Yeah, I ahve some jerry cans but they're to heavy, but I couldn't
believe it when the wife said we could carry some fresh water in
gallon milk jugs (huh?) but sounds good to me.


Plastic milk jugs are made of very thin-walled plastic, and can't take
much of a hit before they puncture. Why not buy two six packs of one
pint water bottles, save the bottles as you drink the water, and then
wash them off and refill them?


My little Parker has a 20 or 25 gallon insulated baitwell under the
pedestal seats. But when I have live bait, I keep it in a separate
baitwell, which means the bigger baitwell is available for use as a
cooler. I dump a couple bags of ice in it and stow drinks in it. At the
end of the day, I simply pull the unopened drinks out and let the
baitwell drain on its own accord. I keep my refilled water bottles in
there.


I also have a few igloo coolers of various sizes, and typically take one
of the smaller ones aboard for food storage.


--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym


Well that's what I was thinking about the milk jugs. And really I was
surprised that she mentioned it, because it really seemed below her
order of things to offer the suggestion. Plus, the idea is to keep the
interior as un- cluttered ans possible. That's why I'm thinking on
going with a couple of thin line 5 gal. heavy plastic containers with
either an electric or air pump and using a shower nozzle for supply.

Yes, keep the drinking water in the cooler!

--------

We freeze gallon jugs of juice and milk for camping and boating trips
(also
chicken and meat) and use this to keep other (non frozen) foods cold. We
use
everything as it thaws and this saves on ice and cuts out the water
pooling
in the bottom of the coolers..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Another reason why I wanted to 'try' to use the fridge is for weight.
50 lb fridge loaded is still lighter than a couple big coolers loaded
with ice etc. and mroe compact too! But then again, using a couple
more batteries etc it may be a toss up. But with the batteries etc I
can space them around th hull to where they're not sitting like a
chunk of lead (pardon the pun) in one spot.

That's what I'm looking for is to take advantage of wasted space and
weight distribution on the boat.

---------
A fridge would be nice.
Engle has some nice (and pricey) portable refers that run on 12vdc and are
very efficient. One of the features that makes them efficient is like boat
iceboxes, they are top loading and this helps to keep the cold air in,
instead of allowing it to spill out whenever the door is opened.
I would just make sure my boat (starting) battery is/can be isolated from
the house (fridge) so that you don't wake up to a long paddle to shore!
Arrgh!



Tim March 31st 10 05:42 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On Mar 31, 9:49*am, hk wrote:
On 3/31/10 11:43 AM, Tim wrote:





On Mar 31, 8:30 am, *wrote:
*wrote in message


....
On Mar 30, 3:28 pm, *wrote:


On 3/30/10 4:02 PM, Tim wrote:


Yeah, I ahve some jerry cans but they're to heavy, but I couldn't
believe it when the wife said we could carry some fresh water in
gallon milk jugs (huh?) but sounds good to me.


Plastic milk jugs are made of very thin-walled plastic, and can't take
much of a hit before they puncture. Why not buy two six packs of one
pint water bottles, save the bottles as you drink the water, and then
wash them off and refill them?


My little Parker has a 20 or 25 gallon insulated baitwell under the
pedestal seats. But when I have live bait, I keep it in a separate
baitwell, which means the bigger baitwell is available for use as a
cooler. I dump a couple bags of ice in it and stow drinks in it. At the
end of the day, I simply pull the unopened drinks out and let the
baitwell drain on its own accord. I keep my refilled water bottles in
there.


I also have a few igloo coolers of various sizes, and typically take one
of the smaller ones aboard for food storage.


--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym


Well that's what I was thinking about the milk jugs. And really I was
surprised that she mentioned it, because it really seemed below her
order of things to offer the suggestion. Plus, the idea is to keep the
interior as un- cluttered ans possible. That's why I'm thinking on
going with a couple of thin line *5 gal. heavy plastic containers with
either an electric or air pump and using a shower nozzle for supply.


Yes, keep the drinking water in the cooler!


--------


We freeze gallon jugs of juice and milk for camping and boating trips (also
chicken and meat) and use this to keep other (non frozen) foods cold. We use
everything as it thaws and this saves on ice and cuts out the water pooling
in the bottom of the coolers..- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Another reason why I wanted to 'try' to use the fridge is for weight.
50 lb fridge loaded is still lighter than a *couple big coolers loaded
with ice etc. and mroe compact too! *But then again, using a couple
more batteries etc it may be a toss up. But with the batteries etc I
can space them around th hull to where they're not sitting like a
chunk of lead (pardon the pun) in one spot.


That's what I'm looking for is to take advantage of wasted space and
weight distribution on the boat.


Heheheh. Batteries and wires and chargers everywhere...you should call
Froggy in for a consult!



Harry. Batteries, wiring, and chargers have been my business for 30
years.

I am Tosk March 31st 10 07:45 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
In article m,
says...

"I am Tosk" wrote in message
...
In article m,
says...

"I am Tosk" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about
130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra
car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, but I can distribute them around the hull for a better
balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I
can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.

I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an electric pump to a
hand held shower head. I figure I'm adding about 300 + lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) but the boat
has a weight load on the spec tag of 950 lb.

Now I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs comes next) etc.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10
gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.

And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still
be
under the weight limit on the boat.

How long are you planning to be out for one trip? A good cooler will
keep
stuff
cold for four or five days, and weigh a lot less than 50 pounds
(empty).

I have great coolers and they are good for a day and a half maybe
unless
you keep filling the ice. I don't know where you use your coolers but I
am out in 95 degree sun and very little shade in the summer, kind of
like in a boat;)

Scotty

--
For a great time, go here first...
http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v

Scotty,
Ever use one of those folding canopies? If there is room at the track,
these
things are great for keeping people and coolers - cooler than sitting in
direct sun.
We use one anytime we're at an outdoor event (like birthday parties at
the
beach) and it's a life saver. Ours has the folding frame and rollup
screen
walls to keep the bugs out in the evenings.


Yes, I do have one with the sides too but somethimes it's just over
there and the cooler is over here for now;) I am not sure how long you
have been reading but my daughter, I and our race team spend weekends
out in the middle of nowhere, usually on top of some dusty old hill,
rain, mud, whatever, and we go racin' dirtbikes! Sounds funny, but
sometimes you don't even have time to worry about if the cooler is being
moved all day out of the sun;) Most times actually, the big one stays
right in the back of the truck so that get's real hot during the day,
but we try. My new coleman, huge thing like four feet wide, does a bit
better than our older coolers, I bet if I kept it out of direct sunlight
it could keep ice a few days...

Scotty

--
For a great time, go here first... http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v


For some reason I was thinking track racing like MX where you would have
your own pit area with a nice recliner (folding) for dad to rest in the
shade and pull mechanic duties when required....ha!.


Close enough, we do motocross, ...but things have changed since we took
our dad's beer money and went track racing on the weekend, or crashed at
the local sandpit. The competition is incredible and there is little
time to sit around.

I start at about 5:30 am for sign-ups, latrine visit, cook breakfast,
and wake my daughter at about 8:30 for the drivers meeting. Racing
starts at 9. From there it's air filter, tire pressure, oil, carb, chain
adjustments, suspension and various other equipment changes and
adjustments between each the 6 motos. Bikes are completely pressure-
washed, dried with a leaf blower, wiped down and plastic/wheels, etc are
wiped down with WD 40 to keep the mud off, radiator, oil checked, and
the chain is also lubed between motos, I have maybe 45 minutes to do
this and go potty, eat, get a drink, pet the dog, talk to the rider,
whatever between motos.

15-20 minutes before each moto I start and warm the bike up for 5
minutes, and sometimes push it to the line depending on track rules. I
go to the line and watch 95% of the races if I am not working on putting
out another fire or helping another team member put out theirs. Staging
is probably a 15 minute setup before each race. Remember the 45 minutes
I noted I had to do my list between motos? Starting/staging is part of
that;)

Every other moto or so, the water barrel for the pressure washer needs
to be hauled to the supply and refilled, dragged back, and the washer
reprimed. That is a typical day of racing for me, and I am sure there a
few things I forgot in the routine;)

Racing ends about 5 pm and I have about an hour of maintenance to do
like change out new oil, filter and fresh air filter if it is a two day
race. She gets to go hit the showers and gets to go play with her
friends for a while.

At about 6pm or so I will lock the bikes in the trailer and start
cooking and cleaning up the camp site from the day. Then I gather up the
kids and eat, she gets to sleep between 10 and 11, hey, kids gotta' have
some time with her friends. Sometimes after she's crashed, one of our
team makes a run to town for supplies, gas, ice, etc... Sometimes Brian
makes drinks and orders Dominoes, and some toothless old hippie pulls
out a weird little guitar;) The next morning it starts all over, except
instead of changing out filters and fluids at the end of the day, we
break down camp and head home. So, anybody seen the cooler???

Yeah, I know it's probably too much info, but I am trying to get myself
wound up for the season, all of this was done last year in the rain,
every weekend at least one day it poured... yikes

Either way, besides the 356 day diet, and constant gym work off track,
it's not like it was when we were kids and threw the bikes in the back
of the pickup to go racin'...

--
For a great time, go here first... http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v

hk March 31st 10 07:49 PM

Boat weight distribution..
 
On 3/31/10 2:45 PM, I am Tosk wrote:
In ting.com,
says...

"I am wrote in message
...
In ting.com,
says...

"I am wrote in message
...
In ,
says...

On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

OK, so I'm trying to get everything in order with my 23' Marquis and
put some creature comforts in it. I plan on using a battery isolator
and I'd thought of installing an 8-D battery, but there goes about
130
lb.s in one solid chunk, so I'm opting for a couple or three extra
car
batteries which will add up to about the same weight if not a bit
more, but I can distribute them around the hull for a better
balance.
Plus, I'm taking a friends Min Kota 24 v. troller for 'emergency use'
in case something might happen to the engine or drive. Therefore I
can
switch a couple batteries around into series to make 24 for the
troller. It won't be much but it might help us to make it into
somewhere or out of the way of something heavy if need be.

I have a Nord refrigerator that got taken out of a camper that runs
on 12v.or 120vac. I bought it for cold drinking water, juice etc. and
it was cheap enough. OK so there's another 50lbs.. Plus I'm adding
about 6 -12 gal. of fresh water in a plastic canister like for an
outboard gas tank which will be supplied by an electric pump to a
hand held shower head. I figure I'm adding about 300 + lb of extra
gear to an already heavy hull, (Not counting anchor) but the boat
has a weight load on the spec tag of 950 lb.

Now I'm trying o figure out the best weight distribution formulas to
make it easier on the boat concerning handling, fuel economy (Proper
prop and trim tabs comes next) etc.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I'm thinking on adding an extra 10
gallon
fuel tank out of a derelict boat I stripped out for parts.

And with all that , plus the wife and myself, I'm figuring to still
be
under the weight limit on the boat.

How long are you planning to be out for one trip? A good cooler will
keep
stuff
cold for four or five days, and weigh a lot less than 50 pounds
(empty).

I have great coolers and they are good for a day and a half maybe
unless
you keep filling the ice. I don't know where you use your coolers but I
am out in 95 degree sun and very little shade in the summer, kind of
like in a boat;)

Scotty

--
For a great time, go here first...
http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v

Scotty,
Ever use one of those folding canopies? If there is room at the track,
these
things are great for keeping people and coolers - cooler than sitting in
direct sun.
We use one anytime we're at an outdoor event (like birthday parties at
the
beach) and it's a life saver. Ours has the folding frame and rollup
screen
walls to keep the bugs out in the evenings.

Yes, I do have one with the sides too but somethimes it's just over
there and the cooler is over here for now;) I am not sure how long you
have been reading but my daughter, I and our race team spend weekends
out in the middle of nowhere, usually on top of some dusty old hill,
rain, mud, whatever, and we go racin' dirtbikes! Sounds funny, but
sometimes you don't even have time to worry about if the cooler is being
moved all day out of the sun;) Most times actually, the big one stays
right in the back of the truck so that get's real hot during the day,
but we try. My new coleman, huge thing like four feet wide, does a bit
better than our older coolers, I bet if I kept it out of direct sunlight
it could keep ice a few days...

Scotty

--
For a great time, go here first... http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v


For some reason I was thinking track racing like MX where you would have
your own pit area with a nice recliner (folding) for dad to rest in the
shade and pull mechanic duties when required....ha!.


Close enough, we do motocross, ...but things have changed since we took
our dad's beer money and went track racing on the weekend, or crashed at
the local sandpit. The competition is incredible and there is little
time to sit around.

I start at about 5:30 am for sign-ups, latrine visit, cook breakfast,
and wake my daughter at about 8:30 for the drivers meeting. Racing
starts at 9. From there it's air filter, tire pressure, oil, carb, chain
adjustments, suspension and various other equipment changes and
adjustments between each the 6 motos. Bikes are completely pressure-
washed, dried with a leaf blower, wiped down and plastic/wheels, etc are
wiped down with WD 40 to keep the mud off, radiator, oil checked, and
the chain is also lubed between motos, I have maybe 45 minutes to do
this and go potty, eat, get a drink, pet the dog, talk to the rider,
whatever between motos.

15-20 minutes before each moto I start and warm the bike up for 5
minutes, and sometimes push it to the line depending on track rules. I
go to the line and watch 95% of the races if I am not working on putting
out another fire or helping another team member put out theirs. Staging
is probably a 15 minute setup before each race. Remember the 45 minutes
I noted I had to do my list between motos? Starting/staging is part of
that;)

Every other moto or so, the water barrel for the pressure washer needs
to be hauled to the supply and refilled, dragged back, and the washer
reprimed. That is a typical day of racing for me, and I am sure there a
few things I forgot in the routine;)

Racing ends about 5 pm and I have about an hour of maintenance to do
like change out new oil, filter and fresh air filter if it is a two day
race. She gets to go hit the showers and gets to go play with her
friends for a while.

At about 6pm or so I will lock the bikes in the trailer and start
cooking and cleaning up the camp site from the day. Then I gather up the
kids and eat, she gets to sleep between 10 and 11, hey, kids gotta' have
some time with her friends. Sometimes after she's crashed, one of our
team makes a run to town for supplies, gas, ice, etc... Sometimes Brian
makes drinks and orders Dominoes, and some toothless old hippie pulls
out a weird little guitar;) The next morning it starts all over, except
instead of changing out filters and fluids at the end of the day, we
break down camp and head home. So, anybody seen the cooler???

Yeah, I know it's probably too much info, but I am trying to get myself
wound up for the season, all of this was done last year in the rain,
every weekend at least one day it poured...yikes

Either way, besides the 356 day diet, and constant gym work off track,
it's not like it was when we were kids and threw the bikes in the back
of the pickup to go racin'...


Why...it's almost as if you...had a real job.



--
http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym


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