Is it necessary to winterize an outboard, or does all the water just drain
out? And the water that stays in is not restricted or contained, so can it
burst? How critical is winterizing, and how is it done on an outboard '89
40 hp 4 cyl. Merc.?

I know I am a little late for this year, but this just came up in the thread
about running in a barrel. We get into the teens here in winter, so will
file this info for next winter. If the motor is any good, that is, after
THIS winter. Going to take it out this weekend, so will know then.

Steve

W1TEF wrote:
On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 20:27:06 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

Is it necessary to winterize an outboard, or does all the water just drain
out? And the water that stays in is not restricted or contained, so can it
burst? How critical is winterizing, and how is it done on an outboard '89
40 hp 4 cyl. Merc.?

I know I am a little late for this year, but this just came up in the thread
about running in a barrel. We get into the teens here in winter, so will
file this info for next winter. If the motor is any good, that is, after
THIS winter. Going to take it out this weekend, so will know then.

It's a simple process on older engines - get some fog oil (you can
find it anywhere that sells motor oil), run the engine before you plan
on putting it away, let it warm up, spray the fogging oil into the
carbs (I assume you have two) until you see white smoke or the engine
chokes off. If smoke, you're done. If it chokes off, you're done.

Some drain the carbs - I'm of the opinion that it doesn't really
matter as the fogging oil keeps the seals and what not maintained when
not in use. Others drain the carbs. Take your pick.

Then it's just a question of draining the engine of water - keep the
engine down to that the water drains out of everything, then cover the
exhaust hub on the prop to keep water from getting in.

Store. Spring commissioning is pretty simple. Fire it up, let it
warm, shut it off, change the plugs (or not - there is some debate
about that - I changed the plugs) and you're running.

Easy peasy.

You really think that fogging oil is necessary?
Cylinders should be oiled enough by the last run, especially on the 4
strokes, to last more than a few months without rust appearing.
What's that fogging oil do to your carb?
Don't like putting nothing but gas in a carb.
What seals are you talking about?
You think the water separated from the ethanol can rust the float seat
in there? Maybe.
I prefer running it dry because of that ethanol in the gas now.
But your advice is good enough.
Steve, what the hell is a "40 hp 4 cyl. Merc?"

"Steve B" wrote in message
...
Is it necessary to winterize an outboard, or does all the water just drain
out? And the water that stays in is not restricted or contained, so can
it burst? How critical is winterizing, and how is it done on an outboard
'89 40 hp 4 cyl. Merc.?

I know I am a little late for this year, but this just came up in the
thread about running in a barrel. We get into the teens here in winter,
so will file this info for next winter. If the motor is any good, that
is, after THIS winter. Going to take it out this weekend, so will know
then.

Steve

All the suggestions on winterizing were spot on. I would only suggest that
you pull the plug wires (so it doesn't fire up) and turn the motor over a
couple times to flush any water that might be trapped in the impeller.

JT

"Jim" wrote in message
...
W1TEF wrote:
On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 20:27:06 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

Is it necessary to winterize an outboard, or does all the water just
drain out? And the water that stays in is not restricted or contained,
so can it burst? How critical is winterizing, and how is it done on an
outboard '89 40 hp 4 cyl. Merc.?

I know I am a little late for this year, but this just came up in the
thread about running in a barrel. We get into the teens here in winter,
so will file this info for next winter. If the motor is any good, that
is, after THIS winter. Going to take it out this weekend, so will know
then.

It's a simple process on older engines - get some fog oil (you can
find it anywhere that sells motor oil), run the engine before you plan
on putting it away, let it warm up, spray the fogging oil into the
carbs (I assume you have two) until you see white smoke or the engine
chokes off. If smoke, you're done. If it chokes off, you're done.

Some drain the carbs - I'm of the opinion that it doesn't really
matter as the fogging oil keeps the seals and what not maintained when
not in use. Others drain the carbs. Take your pick.

Then it's just a question of draining the engine of water - keep the
engine down to that the water drains out of everything, then cover the
exhaust hub on the prop to keep water from getting in.

Store. Spring commissioning is pretty simple. Fire it up, let it
warm, shut it off, change the plugs (or not - there is some debate
about that - I changed the plugs) and you're running.

Easy peasy.

You really think that fogging oil is necessary?
Cylinders should be oiled enough by the last run, especially on the 4
strokes, to last more than a few months without rust appearing.
What's that fogging oil do to your carb?
Don't like putting nothing but gas in a carb.
What seals are you talking about?
You think the water separated from the ethanol can rust the float seat
in there? Maybe.
I prefer running it dry because of that ethanol in the gas now.
But your advice is good enough.
Steve, what the hell is a "40 hp 4 cyl. Merc?"

Forty horsepower
four cylinder
Mercury
forgot to add two stroke

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 09:03:31 -0600, Jim wrote:

I prefer running it dry because of that ethanol in the gas now.

Yes, I've always done that, even before ethanol. The only time I've
ever had carb problems has been when I didn't run dry. After it shuts
down from no fuel, pull the plugs, spray the fogging oil directly into
the cylinders, reinstall plugs and turn the engine over a few times. I
like new plugs in the spring.

I also like to ensure there is no water in the gearcase by following
the lube procedure until nothing but grease comes out the upper hole.