This summer, I purchased a '86 Sea Ray Weekender 30'. It is located
on the Great Lakes where temperatures are well below zero for most of
the winter. It is just about that time to pull it out of the water
and winterize it. User manuals or documentation did not come with the
boat.

Can anyone provide information about what needs to be done? Included
are the particulars of the boat.

Twin Inboard 350 w/ fresh water intakes and exhausts
Dripless Shaft System
Hot Water Heater
Water System Holding Tank
Shower, Drain
Manual Fresh Water Head
Waste Holding Tank
Sinks, Galley and Head
Bilge Pumps (4)
Fridge
Windlass
Mooring Cover
Camper Cover
Scuppers
Anchor Locker
Hatches


What is the best enviro safe products to use to clean the bottom of
the boat? There is anti-fouling paint on the hull.

Any and all help, comments and or opinions would be appreciated.
Also, if there are groups for boating issues, please let me know.


Thank You,
Jim

"Jim" wrote in message
om...
This summer, I purchased a '86 Sea Ray Weekender 30'. It is located
on the Great Lakes where temperatures are well below zero for most of
the winter. It is just about that time to pull it out of the water
and winterize it. User manuals or documentation did not come with the
boat.

Can anyone provide information about what needs to be done? Included
are the particulars of the boat.

Twin Inboard 350 w/ fresh water intakes and exhausts
Dripless Shaft System
Hot Water Heater
Water System Holding Tank
Shower, Drain
Manual Fresh Water Head
Waste Holding Tank
Sinks, Galley and Head
Bilge Pumps (4)
Fridge
Windlass
Mooring Cover
Camper Cover
Scuppers
Anchor Locker
Hatches


What is the best enviro safe products to use to clean the bottom of
the boat? There is anti-fouling paint on the hull.

Any and all help, comments and or opinions would be appreciated.
Also, if there are groups for boating issues, please let me know.


Thank You,
Jim



http://www.boatfix.com/how/winterize.pdf

Given that winter is probably coming fast for you, I suggest that you pay to
have this boat professionally winterized this first season. Then, during
the off season, you can study up on the procedures to winterize your boat
for next year. The last thing you want to do is rush through it and miss
something. That "something" can probably result in more damage than the
cost of having someone winterize it. It might be in the area of $600+ due
to the twins, but I think it will be money well spent. My opinion of
course.......

Scott Collins
Newcastle, WA
'99 Seaswirl 230 Cuddy

"Jim" wrote in message
om...
This summer, I purchased a '86 Sea Ray Weekender 30'. It is located
on the Great Lakes where temperatures are well below zero for most of
the winter. It is just about that time to pull it out of the water
and winterize it. User manuals or documentation did not come with the
boat.

Can anyone provide information about what needs to be done? Included
are the particulars of the boat.

Twin Inboard 350 w/ fresh water intakes and exhausts
Dripless Shaft System
Hot Water Heater
Water System Holding Tank
Shower, Drain
Manual Fresh Water Head
Waste Holding Tank
Sinks, Galley and Head
Bilge Pumps (4)
Fridge
Windlass
Mooring Cover
Camper Cover
Scuppers
Anchor Locker
Hatches


What is the best enviro safe products to use to clean the bottom of
the boat? There is anti-fouling paint on the hull.

Any and all help, comments and or opinions would be appreciated.
Also, if there are groups for boating issues, please let me know.


Thank You,
Jim

Here is a list I put together and posted in can.rec.boating.

=======================

I have tried to complete a list of things to do to winterize my boat, motor
and trailer. If some of these points look familiar you have probably seen
them in another post in this news group and I would like to thank those
whose postings I used.



You will note that there seems to be a few "schools of thought" as to what
speed your engine should be idling at when you spray the fogging oil into
the carburetors

· Idle it down

· 1200-1500 RPM

· fast idle

Does any one have any thoughts on this?



If you have any comments, corrections or concerns regarding this list I
would be happy to hear from you.





Fogging

· Idle it down and squirt fogger into air intake till engine stalls

· spray the fogging oil down the throat of the carburetor with the
engine idling at about 1200-1500 RPM

· Slowly pour a little 20-weight oil or engine storage fogging oil
down the throat of the carburetor while the engine runs at a fast idle, then
rapidly pouring the rest down the throat to "choke" off the engine

· Pull the plugs and squirt fogger into individual cylinders, then
crank it over for a couple of seconds with the plugs in, but disconnected



Lower Unit

· Change the oil in the fall to avoid avoiding leaving old oil in it
with salts, acids and other contaminants.

· Change the oil filters if there are any

· Drain the oil from the lower unit by removing the plugs on the top
and bottom (Inspect the oil; if it's milky, see your dealer).

· Replace the lower unit oil from the bottom plug till it comes out
the top plug. Put in the top plug, then the bottom.

· Make sure the motor is in a vertical position so all the water
drains out.

· The drive should be touched up if paint is missing



Engine

· Spin engine over just enough to get water out of water pump

· Coat the electrical system and engine block with a fine mist of
silicone spray before putting the cover back on



Batteries

· Put 600 milliamp trickle charger/maintainer on batteries or take out
the batteries

· Charge up the batteries

· Clean the posts/contacts

· If batteries are taken indoors DO NOT put on cement floor



Electrical

· Change the plugs in the spring after the fogging oil and fuel
stabilizer is all burned up.



Fuel

· Add plenty of fuel stabilizer so that you will not be leaving gummy
varnish in the carburetors. The stabilizer is mixed with the fuel in the
boat's tank before it's run for the last time, so that treated fuel ends up
throughout the fuel system, not just in the tank

· Fill the fuel tank at least ¾ full to cut down on condensation



Propeller

· Take off the prop, lube the shaft with light oil and put it back on

· Check the prop, if it's damaged, send it out for refinishing



General

· Make sure the motor is in a vertical position so all the water
drains out of the cooling system

· The speedometer and cooling ports should be probed with a fine wire
to be sure there's no water trapped inside

· wipe the motor case down

· wax the boat and all metal fittings



Trailer

· Block the frame of the trailer at the tongue and back under the
engine area to take the weight off of the tires and suspension

· Put the trailer up on stands as that will save the tires from
getting a set flat spot. Also good for the springs

· inflate the tires to the max (50 lbs) over the winter





comments, corrections or concerns?








"Jim" wrote in message
om...
This summer, I purchased a '86 Sea Ray Weekender 30'. It is located
on the Great Lakes where temperatures are well below zero for most of
the winter. It is just about that time to pull it out of the water
and winterize it. User manuals or documentation did not come with the
boat.

Can anyone provide information about what needs to be done? Included
are the particulars of the boat.

Twin Inboard 350 w/ fresh water intakes and exhausts
Dripless Shaft System
Hot Water Heater
Water System Holding Tank
Shower, Drain
Manual Fresh Water Head
Waste Holding Tank
Sinks, Galley and Head
Bilge Pumps (4)
Fridge
Windlass
Mooring Cover
Camper Cover
Scuppers
Anchor Locker
Hatches


What is the best enviro safe products to use to clean the bottom of
the boat? There is anti-fouling paint on the hull.

Any and all help, comments and or opinions would be appreciated.
Also, if there are groups for boating issues, please let me know.


Thank You,
Jim

On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 03:19:41 GMT, "Kim Lauzon"
wrote:

Batteries

· Put 600 milliamp trickle charger/maintainer on batteries or take out
the batteries

· Charge up the batteries

· Clean the posts/contacts

· If batteries are taken indoors DO NOT put on cement floor

The cement floor concern is outdated. This was due to surface
discharge from using hard rubber on battery cases. The cases often
leaked and placing it on a humid or wet floor caused a slow discharge.
Usually condensation was the culprit and was not apparent in the
spring after the battery was dead and the location was now completely
dry.

The best place to keep the battery is probably in a plastic battery
case, like on the boat, to avoid spills and/or leakage of acid. Just
put the plastic case anywhere and make sure the battery is fully
charged, completely clean and topped off with distilled water. It is
even possible to keep the battery outside in below freezing conditions
if fully charged. It will not freeze. However, why not err on the
side of caution? :-)

A great FAQ on deep cycle and starting batteries can be found he
http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/

-Rod