....and bought the Mahogany for the seat pedestals. My friends Son
( who works with another friend making custom wood stairways) got me 2
pcs, 12 ft. by 8 inches, by 3/4. for $80.00. Once he's assembled them
using the temporaries as templates, I'll sand, stain and seal them.Re-
install with the seats in the spring, and I've covered that. Boat
interior is seat less. All I have to do is remove the old seat mount
from the inner wall for clearance. I'm giving the old seat bracket to
my friend restoring his 63 31' Steel Hulled Roamer Riviera to be used
as a left side wheelhouse seat.
I put the shop vac on , as I said I was; and got a lot of water out of
the block. No chance of ice in there this time.Vacuumed the boat of
leaves. Sprayed all electrical points on relay solenoids with Lithium
Grease, tarped it and done.
I've also removed both windshields to see if I can take them apart and
get the glass out. I must have patience, as they are Stainless screwed
in an Aluminum frame . This will, I hope, cut cost on replacing them.
Now, if I only had a close friend in the glass business.
It's not always what you know, as opposed to WHO you know that helps
in life.

On Mon, 2 Nov 2009 03:27:52 -0800 (PST), Scott Dickson
wrote:

It's not always what you know, as opposed to WHO you know that helps
in life.

Damned straight. :)

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 07:55:22 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Mon, 2 Nov 2009 03:27:52 -0800 (PST), Scott Dickson
wrote:

It's not always what you know, as opposed to WHO you know that helps
in life.

Damned straight. :)

Nope. Part of what you know is knowing who.

--Vic

On Mon, 2 Nov 2009 03:27:52 -0800 (PST), Scott Dickson
wrote:

I've also removed both windshields to see if I can take them apart and
get the glass out. I must have patience, as they are Stainless screwed
in an Aluminum frame . This will, I hope, cut cost on replacing them.

EEwwww...that can be a tough one.

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

It did work - took some patience as you had to loosen the screws just
a tad to work the oil in, but the screws came out just fine.

There's a tool you might look around for - it's very similar to it's
larger cousin used for breaking screws loose, but much smaller. It's
got a spring in it and you tap it with a small hammer - the shock and
torguebreak the screws loose - can't remember the name of the tool but
it works.

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports wrote:


There's a tool you might look around for - it's very similar to it's
larger cousin used for breaking screws loose, but much smaller. It's got
a spring in it and you tap it with a small hammer - the shock and
torguebreak the screws loose - can't remember the name of the tool but
it works.

Manual impact driver? It would probably work, if you could find a
smaller one, but most I'm used to seeing are probably too powerful for
something as delicate as a windshield.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:08:34 -0600, thunder
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports wrote:


There's a tool you might look around for - it's very similar to it's
larger cousin used for breaking screws loose, but much smaller. It's got
a spring in it and you tap it with a small hammer - the shock and
torguebreak the screws loose - can't remember the name of the tool but
it works.

Manual impact driver? It would probably work, if you could find a
smaller one, but most I'm used to seeing are probably too powerful for
something as delicate as a windshield.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a

That's it only it's much smaller. I have one - I'll take a picuture
of it. I think I got it from Northern Supply or maybe it was Jann's -
they use it on heavily corroded fishing reel screws.

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:17:21 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

I like PB Blaster, but the problem is that you can't use use a
"little" of it - the way it comes out of the can, it's like a flood.

On Nov 2, 11:33*am, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:17:21 -0500, Wayne.B

wrote:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. *Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. *There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

I like PB Blaster, but the problem is that you can't use use a
"little" of it - the way it comes out of the can, it's like a flood.

Yes! Another product that works very well is Mouse Milk. My uncle
raved about the stuff when he was an aviation machinist. I found a
supplier in CA and bought three bottles. It' penetrates REALLY well,
and the good thing is that it's in a plastic squeeze bottle so that
you don't get it everywhere.

http://www.skygeek.com/mouse-milk.ht...Fdpb2godf3KkKg

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:33:54 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:17:21 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

I like PB Blaster, but the problem is that you can't use use a
"little" of it - the way it comes out of the can, it's like a flood.

Kroil Oil works exceptionally well on just about any type of rusted or
frozen parts. You can purchased it directly from Kano Labs in a spray
can, oil sqiurt can, or a closed container. If you buy a packaged
kit, you can get all of these at a fairly inexpensive price. It's the
only product that I would buy for our maintenance department and
machine shop for that type of problem. I've been able to apply it to
bolts that were siezed-up in machinery that had been left in the
weather for years. The parts could be loosened within 10 minutes.

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