On 11/2/09 12:05 PM, wrote:

Kroil Oil works exceptionally well on just about any type of rusted or
frozen parts. You can purchased it directly from Kano Labs in a spray
can, oil sqiurt can, or a closed container. If you buy a packaged
kit, you can get all of these at a fairly inexpensive price. It's the
only product that I would buy for our maintenance department and
machine shop for that type of problem. I've been able to apply it to
bolts that were siezed-up in machinery that had been left in the
weather for years. The parts could be loosened within 10 minutes.

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Very interesting and revealing. Thanks.

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:05:38 -0600, wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:33:54 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:17:21 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

I like PB Blaster, but the problem is that you can't use use a
"little" of it - the way it comes out of the can, it's like a flood.

Kroil Oil works exceptionally well on just about any type of rusted or
frozen parts. You can purchased it directly from Kano Labs in a spray
can, oil sqiurt can, or a closed container. If you buy a packaged
kit, you can get all of these at a fairly inexpensive price. It's the
only product that I would buy for our maintenance department and
machine shop for that type of problem. I've been able to apply it to
bolts that were siezed-up in machinery that had been left in the
weather for years. The parts could be loosened within 10 minutes.

Somewhat off the subject.

A few years back, I purchased a A model IH orchard tractor with a
frozen engine. Parts for that particular tractor are hard to find in
particular engine parts - it's a non-standard A engine.

Anway, I was talking to a guy at a tractor show who specialized in
Ford Jubilee and 8/9N restorations. He gave me a trick that he used
on frozen Ford engines. Pull the head and attach a six foot piece of
bar steel (or rod at least 1 inch thick) to the flywheel. Fill the
top of the engine block with WD-40 or similar solvent based penetrant
and attach a 25 lb weight to the end of the bar.

I'll be darned if it didn't work. Took about a week and I had to
reposition the bar once or twice and refill the cylinders (I think I
used PB Blaster) a few times, but the engine freed up enough to remove
the pistons and see what damage was done to the cylinders.

Here's the best part - I only had to resleeve one cylinder - I could
get away with honing the other three cylinders and some very slight
over size piston rings.

I thought it was a pretty cool idea.

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:33:54 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I like PB Blaster, but the problem is that you can't use use a
"little" of it - the way it comes out of the can, it's like a flood.

Do you use the small plastic tube that attaches to the nozzle? That
helps some. I also have learned to hold a folded paper towel behind
what ever I'm spraying.

I recently freed up a pair of bronze turnbuckles that had been exposed
to salt spray and not adjusted in many years. They were totally
green and frozen. It took about a week of PB Blaster application,
hammer tapping and coaxing but they both turn freely now.

On Tue, 03 Nov 2009 01:11:59 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:33:54 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I like PB Blaster, but the problem is that you can't use use a
"little" of it - the way it comes out of the can, it's like a flood.

Do you use the small plastic tube that attaches to the nozzle? That
helps some. I also have learned to hold a folded paper towel behind
what ever I'm spraying.

I recently freed up a pair of bronze turnbuckles that had been exposed
to salt spray and not adjusted in many years. They were totally
green and frozen. It took about a week of PB Blaster application,
hammer tapping and coaxing but they both turn freely now.

The missing metal will reduce the strength.

Casady

On Tue, 03 Nov 2009 01:11:59 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:33:54 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I like PB Blaster, but the problem is that you can't use use a
"little" of it - the way it comes out of the can, it's like a flood.

Do you use the small plastic tube that attaches to the nozzle? That
helps some. I also have learned to hold a folded paper towel behind
what ever I'm spraying.

I recently freed up a pair of bronze turnbuckles that had been exposed
to salt spray and not adjusted in many years. They were totally
green and frozen. It took about a week of PB Blaster application,
hammer tapping and coaxing but they both turn freely now.

Half the time I lose the stupid little red tube thingy. :)

I wonder if there is a market for little red tube thingy's? :)

The stuff does work - I'll give it that.

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 10:21:06 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:17:21 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/


If you use this stuff when you are putting these things together the
corrosion is mitigated quite a bit.

http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor

Huh - how about that - I've never heard of that.

Hmmmm....

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 10:21:06 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:17:21 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/


If you use this stuff when you are putting these things together the
corrosion is mitigated quite a bit.

http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor

Though I've never used it, some auto guys of every stripe swear by GM
heat riser lubricant for freeing nuts bolts. They say it beats
everything. GM dealer part, $7-10 a can. Spray I think.
Most here know how manifold riser valves freeze up.
I just use whatever's available and make sure I rap a hammer on the
part to aid penetration.
Over the years I've had opportunity to let penetrating oils soak on
some parts for a day or two. Never noticed a difference.
If the threads have corroded/welded together too bad it won't matter
what you use.
But getting whatever apart even with bad threads gets you a step ahead
since you don't have to drill anything out.
Then a tap and die set can often make things usable again.

--Vic

--Vic

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 15:18:23 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

If the threads have corroded/welded together too bad it won't matter
what you use.

When we have the tires rotated, we have them grease the studs. If you
have a flat tire, you can get the nuts loose easily.

Casady

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 10:21:06 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:17:21 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/


If you use this stuff when you are putting these things together the
corrosion is mitigated quite a bit.

http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor


One other thing. You probably didn't spend much time in the hole
while in the Navy, but BT's and MM's - and maybe the HT's - used
something called wintergreen penetrating oil.
Came in a GI can about the size of a pint whiskey flask.
Screw on top on one side, like on a can of boiled linseed oil.
Smelled like mint. Seemed to work as well as any of the commercial
products I used later.
Only commercial products we used on gear when I was in was Brass o and
Glow.
Suspect you're familiar with them!

--Vic

On Nov 2, 5:04*am, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:
On Mon, 2 Nov 2009 03:27:52 -0800 (PST), Scott Dickson

wrote:
I've also removed both windshields to see if I can take them apart and
get the glass out. I must have patience, as they are Stainless screwed
in an Aluminum frame . This will, I hope, cut cost on replacing them.

EEwwww...thatcan be a tough one.

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. *Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

It did work - took some patience as you had to loosen the screws just
a tad to work the oil in, but the screws came out just fine.

There's a tool you might look around for - it's very similar to it's
larger cousin used for breaking screws loose, but much smaller. It's
got a spring in it and you tap it with a small hammer - the shock and
torguebreak the screws loose - can't remember the name of the tool but
it works.

That's what I ended up using... 3 in 1 oil.