Well, i wen'tt o fire up the boat and man was it hard to start. Lots
of starter time counting p[umping the throttle to get it to slobber
around then die like I'd shut the key off. I got thinking , something
obviously want right, so I took off the spark arrester/ breather, and
pumped the carb, and sure enough, no fuel.

hmmm, I took the top off bowel off the mechanical fuel pump and even
thogh the little fuel filter looked "OK" i took it out and hit the key
some more, with no success. OK, that did it. I pulled the bowl off the
fuel pump again and sure enough I could see gasoline in the bottom of
the pump but obviously the upper part of the pump was dry. I would
say that the diaphragm an/or the check valve was out of the pump and
not letting fuel to go up to the Carburetor.

I called NAPA to see about a replacement fuel pump and they said there
were two different ones for the 3.0 mercruiser engine, and I'd need
the numbers off the base of the carb. Just for the fun of it I asked
how much, and both pumps were close to $200.00.

http://www.sterndrive.info/sitebuild...-fuel-pump.jpg

I asked if they have a low pressure electric pump. Yes they did at
$47.00 plus tx.

And it happened to be AC-Delco similar to this one.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/restore/pics2/4047.jpg

So I took the old pump off and fortunately there was no gas in the
oil, and installed a cover plate and gasket over the hole where the
mechanical pump was. and installed the electric pump and a fuel
filter.

http://www.firehow.com/images/storie...uel-filter.jpg

It took a bit of doing, but I mounted the pump and filter securely,
and used some old inner tube to make the pump more shock resistant.
Believe it or not, I DID do a pretty professionally looking job!

Secured the ground to the pump, and took the ign. side, soldered a
splice, wrapped and heated shrink wrap to the splice,and ran the 12
g. wire to a 20a fuse holder,

http://www.water4gasmfg.com/images/Fuse%20holder.jpg

attached the wire to the ignition "on" switch. ( the switch is either
on or off, so no brainer there. ) and tucked it neatly under the dash.

left the throttle in neutral position turned the key o, , waited a few
seconds and check for leaks... all secure, and hit the starter button.
the engine immediately started. let it run for a bit to get up to
operating temp. (135 degrees raw water) and check for leaks and shut
it off. no leaks or fumes. hit the button again, and immediate
starting!

ooooh I love it!

I installed a Pertronix electronic ignition a couple years ago because
I thought that had something to do with the rough starting and it
"helped" but still I'd had to do a lot of cranking, but it all seemed
to run alright. But now it's just plain fantastic.

I'm glad that miserable mechanical pump didn't quit out in the middle
of the lake with the nephews.

Now the disclaimer, I always carry a generous wiring kit w/terminals,
and a good selection of tools tape, and clamps. as well as a spare
prop.

These electric pumps have lasted over 100,000 in automotive use, so I
don't think a few hits on the lake will phase it much. I might try to
get a rebuild kit for the mechanical, and put it together and keep it
under the seat of the boat "just in case" But if I can't, I won't
sweat it.