"BetaB4" wrote in
:

I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a
set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks
to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot
wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong
size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about
why I did that).

My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot
aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It
already has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have
the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks.
The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in
case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in
waters where only an electric motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I
want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area.

The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp
right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and,
3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the
top. I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called)
that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from
wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar
protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types,
and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp
directly to the oars.

Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or
not to get the oar protector sleeves?

snip

First, by all means get the sleeves - if you don't, your oars will get
chewed up beyond all recognition by the oarlocks. Consider it a cheap
way to protect your investment in the oars. Also get buttons (the fat
collars that prevent the oars from slipping overboard if you let go).

Second, the oarlocks. Since you are using the oars as emergency backup,
I think the clamp-on locks would be a mistake primarily because they do
not let you feather the blades on the recovery. If you are out in any
kind of breeze (10 kt or higher) and have to row upwind to get home, the
added resistance of unfeathered blades will exhaust you in half the
time. Further, if the going really gets tough you can 'change gears' by
sliding the oars inboard a little bit. This will increase your leverage
(and decrease your speed, but there are always tradeoffs), and is a
technique that clamp-on oarlocks do not allow. Frankly, I'd go for
round oarlocks. Once you put the sleeves and buttons on, the oarlock
becomes captive on the loom of the oar and you need never worry about
losing them. Too, the oars will never jump out of round oarlocks.

Third, as some advice from a fellow whose primary boat has oars but no
motor or sail, learn how to feather the blades on your recovery. This
one trick makes rowing to windward almost as easy as rowing downwind,
and once you learn it you'll never forget how to do it (kinda like
riding a bike). I learned how almost 35 years ago, and it came back
after all that time like I had never stopped rowing.

Fourth, if you find the oars you have to be just too short, and if you
happen to like puttering with wood, half a dozen spruce 2x4s or a couple
of 1x8s, some glue, a saw, a plane and long winter evenings will give
you exactly what you want for under $25. You can use construction grade
wood.