Oarlock questions
 

I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set
of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get.
The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for
$63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to
what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that).

My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot
aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already
has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and
the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for
getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies
or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric
motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to
shore or to a docking area.

The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right
onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped
open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see
"oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go
over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from
rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be
a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the
type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars.

Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not
to get the oar protector sleeves?

(NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply
store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct
size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but
they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right
to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across
between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The only oars that the store had
were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63,
and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. So, I bought the pair
for $63. Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and
the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars
with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I
should have bought about 8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is
that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the
pair.)

Oarlock questions
 

BetaB4 wrote:
I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set
of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get.
The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for
$63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to
what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that).

My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot
aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already
has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and
the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for
getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies
or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric
motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to
shore or to a docking area.

The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right
onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped
open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see
"oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go
over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from
rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be
a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the
type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars.

Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not
to get the oar protector sleeves?

(NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply
store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct
size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but
they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right
to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across
between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The only oars that the store had
were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63,
and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. So, I bought the pair
for $63. Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and
the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars
with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I
should have bought about 8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is
that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the
pair.)




I always preferred the "horn" (U-shaped oarlocks) without the retainer,
and oars with the "sleeve," as you call it. The round oarlocks were my
second choice.

Here's a nice supplier:

http://www.shawandtenney.com/marine-hardware.htm

I'll bet if you called the store, someone there would help you out with
the right stuff.






--
The modern GOP is little more than an army of moral absolutists led by a
gang of moral nihilists.

Oarlock questions
 

"BetaB4" wrote in message
...
I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set
of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get.
The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars,
for $63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars
according to what people here recommended -- see below about why I did
that).

My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot
aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already
has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and
the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for
getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery
dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an
electric motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row
the boat to shore or to a docking area.

The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp
right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3)
U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I
also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can
buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage
from rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves
might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be
necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars.

Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not
to get the oar protector sleeves?

(NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply
store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the
correct size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the
store, but they said they never heard of any formula and "just get
whatever feels right to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing
boat and the span across between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The
only oars that the store had were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood
oars that I bought for $63, and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars
for $119. So, I bought the pair for $63. Since then, I went to another
boat supply store (West Marine) and the biggest they had were two
unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars with different size paddle
ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I should have bought about
8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is that I now have the two 6
1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the pair.)

If just for a back up to your main propulsion, as you state above, I
wouldn't have spent the extra 50+ bucks on the longer oars either.
I'd do the sleeves, not just for prtecting the oars but also to quiet them
in the locks if you use the oars when fishing. I like the round locks,
pinned in, to avoid having the oar pop out of the lock and the lock lift out
of the socket.

Oarlock questions
 

"BetaB4" wrote in
:

I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a
set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks
to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot
wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong
size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about
why I did that).

My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot
aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It
already has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have
the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks.
The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in
case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in
waters where only an electric motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I
want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area.

The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp
right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and,
3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the
top. I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called)
that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from
wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar
protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types,
and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp
directly to the oars.

Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or
not to get the oar protector sleeves?

snip

First, by all means get the sleeves - if you don't, your oars will get
chewed up beyond all recognition by the oarlocks. Consider it a cheap
way to protect your investment in the oars. Also get buttons (the fat
collars that prevent the oars from slipping overboard if you let go).

Second, the oarlocks. Since you are using the oars as emergency backup,
I think the clamp-on locks would be a mistake primarily because they do
not let you feather the blades on the recovery. If you are out in any
kind of breeze (10 kt or higher) and have to row upwind to get home, the
added resistance of unfeathered blades will exhaust you in half the
time. Further, if the going really gets tough you can 'change gears' by
sliding the oars inboard a little bit. This will increase your leverage
(and decrease your speed, but there are always tradeoffs), and is a
technique that clamp-on oarlocks do not allow. Frankly, I'd go for
round oarlocks. Once you put the sleeves and buttons on, the oarlock
becomes captive on the loom of the oar and you need never worry about
losing them. Too, the oars will never jump out of round oarlocks.

Third, as some advice from a fellow whose primary boat has oars but no
motor or sail, learn how to feather the blades on your recovery. This
one trick makes rowing to windward almost as easy as rowing downwind,
and once you learn it you'll never forget how to do it (kinda like
riding a bike). I learned how almost 35 years ago, and it came back
after all that time like I had never stopped rowing.

Fourth, if you find the oars you have to be just too short, and if you
happen to like puttering with wood, half a dozen spruce 2x4s or a couple
of 1x8s, some glue, a saw, a plane and long winter evenings will give
you exactly what you want for under $25. You can use construction grade
wood.

Oarlock questions
 

"Jim Willemin" wrote in message
7.131...
"BetaB4" wrote in
:

I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a
set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks
to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot
wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong
size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about
why I did that).

My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot
aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It
already has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have
the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks.
The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in
case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in
waters where only an electric motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I
want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area.

The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp
right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and,
3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the
top. I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called)
that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from
wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar
protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types,
and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp
directly to the oars.

Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or
not to get the oar protector sleeves?

snip

First, by all means get the sleeves - if you don't, your oars will get
chewed up beyond all recognition by the oarlocks. Consider it a cheap
way to protect your investment in the oars. Also get buttons (the fat
collars that prevent the oars from slipping overboard if you let go).

Second, the oarlocks. Since you are using the oars as emergency backup,
I think the clamp-on locks would be a mistake primarily because they do
not let you feather the blades on the recovery. If you are out in any
kind of breeze (10 kt or higher) and have to row upwind to get home, the
added resistance of unfeathered blades will exhaust you in half the
time. Further, if the going really gets tough you can 'change gears' by
sliding the oars inboard a little bit. This will increase your leverage
(and decrease your speed, but there are always tradeoffs), and is a
technique that clamp-on oarlocks do not allow. Frankly, I'd go for
round oarlocks. Once you put the sleeves and buttons on, the oarlock
becomes captive on the loom of the oar and you need never worry about
losing them. Too, the oars will never jump out of round oarlocks.

Third, as some advice from a fellow whose primary boat has oars but no
motor or sail, learn how to feather the blades on your recovery. This
one trick makes rowing to windward almost as easy as rowing downwind,
and once you learn it you'll never forget how to do it (kinda like
riding a bike). I learned how almost 35 years ago, and it came back
after all that time like I had never stopped rowing.

Fourth, if you find the oars you have to be just too short, and if you
happen to like puttering with wood, half a dozen spruce 2x4s or a couple
of 1x8s, some glue, a saw, a plane and long winter evenings will give
you exactly what you want for under $25. You can use construction grade
wood.

I don't know about you BetaB4, but I'm going to listen to this guy.

Oarlock questions
 

On Jun 17, 9:51*am, "BetaB4" wrote:
I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). *I just bought a set
of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get.
The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for
$63 for the pair. *(Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to
what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that).

My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. *My boat is a 13-foot
aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. *It already
has oarlock holders mounted in place. *And, since I now have the oars and
the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. *The purpose for
getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies
or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric
motor is allowed. *So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to
shore or to a docking area.

The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right
onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped
open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. *I also see
"oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go
over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from
rubbing against the oarlocks. *Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be
a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the
type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars.

Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not
to get the oar protector sleeves?

(NOTE: *About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply
store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct
size oars to get. *I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but
they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right
to you" -- duh. *I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across
between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. *The only oars that the store had
were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63,
and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. *So, I bought the pair
for $63. *Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and
the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars
with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. *I think that ideally I
should have bought about *8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is
that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the
pair.)

Well, those oars really won't move the boat in even the slightest wind
or weather so what I would do is paint them orange and you can at
least use them to flag down help... Really, get whatever locks you
want and sleeves and then go down and take your boat out in a 5-10 mph
breeze and try to row it with 6 foot oars, you will sell them and get
proper oars after the first attempt. We all told you what oars and how
long they should be when you first posted. Not trying to be an ass,
but 6 foot oars are about as useful as a couple of spoons. The
leverage and angle of attack, length of stroke etc are just not
there...

Oarlock questions
 

On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 07:17:30 -0700 (PDT), "JustWaitAFrekinMinute!"
wrote:

On Jun 17, 9:51*am, "BetaB4" wrote:
I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). *I just bought a set
of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get.
The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for
$63 for the pair. *(Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to
what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that).

My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. *My boat is a 13-foot
aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. *It already
has oarlock holders mounted in place. *And, since I now have the oars and
the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. *The purpose for
getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies
or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric
motor is allowed. *So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to
shore or to a docking area.

The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right
onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped
open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. *I also see
"oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go
over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from
rubbing against the oarlocks. *Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be
a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the
type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars.

Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not
to get the oar protector sleeves?

(NOTE: *About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply
store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct
size oars to get. *I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but
they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right
to you" -- duh. *I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across
between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. *The only oars that the store had
were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63,
and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. *So, I bought the pair
for $63. *Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and
the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars
with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. *I think that ideally I
should have bought about *8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is
that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the
pair.)

Well, those oars really won't move the boat in even the slightest wind
or weather so what I would do is paint them orange and you can at
least use them to flag down help... Really, get whatever locks you
want and sleeves and then go down and take your boat out in a 5-10 mph
breeze and try to row it with 6 foot oars, you will sell them and get
proper oars after the first attempt. We all told you what oars and how
long they should be when you first posted. Not trying to be an ass,
but 6 foot oars are about as useful as a couple of spoons. The
leverage and angle of attack, length of stroke etc are just not
there...

If they're nicely varnished and have something cute painted on the
blades, the look great over the fireplace in your beach house!

http://www.originaloystershellart.co...b-cart/029.jpg

So, if you own a beach house or two, then they *are* more useful than
a couple of spoons.
--
John H

I once shook hands with a pudgy guy who:

Sailed from San Francisco to Hawaii.
Rounded Cape Horn, twice.
Transited the Panama Canal.
Has owned more than 20 boats in his lifetime.
Sailed large boats competitively.
Has been hundreds of miles from land in a powerboat
under his command.

And who set a new record for the most distance covered
and most fish caught in the Chesapeake Bay in the shortest
time!

Oarlock questions
 

On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 07:17:30 -0700 (PDT), "JustWaitAFrekinMinute!"
wrote:

6 foot oars are about as useful as a couple of spoons. The
leverage and angle of attack, length of stroke etc are just not
there...

That's all true unfortunately. A 13 ft boat needs bigger oars, no
question about it.

You've gotten some good advice on oar locks also. My personal
preference would be round ones with collars on the oars. On a safety
note, "U" shaped oar locks must be removed at all times when not in
use. They are a serious source of injury if someone falls on them.

Oarlock questions
 

On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:58:57 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On a safety
note, "U" shaped oar locks must be removed at all times when not in
use. They are a serious source of injury if someone falls on them.

Locks that are not perminently attached to the oar will end up with
Davy Jones.

Casady

Oarlock questions
 

Richard Casady wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:58:57 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On a safety
note, "U" shaped oar locks must be removed at all times when not in
use. They are a serious source of injury if someone falls on them.

Locks that are not perminently attached to the oar will end up with
Davy Jones.

Casady


The horned oarlocks I had on my rowboats when I was a little kid had
keepers. There was a hole through the bottom of the shaft of the
oarlock, to which was attached a bronze chain with a little keeper on
the end of it. There were also folding horned oarlocks.



--
"John H" wrote in message
...

Please note that Interstate 90 will be closed this weekend across
South Dakota. This closure will allow the Federal Government free
access to haul a 200 ton piece of coal to Mt. Rushmore so that
President Obama can be added to the Presidents on the monument.
--
John H

--

John Herring, rec.boat's resident racist.