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Oarlock questions
I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that). My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area. The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars. Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not to get the oar protector sleeves? (NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The only oars that the store had were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63, and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. So, I bought the pair for $63. Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I should have bought about 8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the pair.) |
Oarlock questions
BetaB4 wrote:
I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks (05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that). My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area. The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars. Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not to get the oar protector sleeves? (NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The only oars that the store had were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63, and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. So, I bought the pair for $63. Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I should have bought about 8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the pair.) I always preferred the "horn" (U-shaped oarlocks) without the retainer, and oars with the "sleeve," as you call it. The round oarlocks were my second choice. Here's a nice supplier: http://www.shawandtenney.com/marine-hardware.htm I'll bet if you called the store, someone there would help you out with the right stuff. -- The modern GOP is little more than an army of moral absolutists led by a gang of moral nihilists. |
Oarlock questions
"BetaB4" wrote in message ... I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks (05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that). My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area. The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars. Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not to get the oar protector sleeves? (NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The only oars that the store had were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63, and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. So, I bought the pair for $63. Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I should have bought about 8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the pair.) If just for a back up to your main propulsion, as you state above, I wouldn't have spent the extra 50+ bucks on the longer oars either. I'd do the sleeves, not just for prtecting the oars but also to quiet them in the locks if you use the oars when fishing. I like the round locks, pinned in, to avoid having the oar pop out of the lock and the lock lift out of the socket. |
Oarlock questions
"BetaB4" wrote in
: I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks (05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that). My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area. The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars. Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not to get the oar protector sleeves? snip First, by all means get the sleeves - if you don't, your oars will get chewed up beyond all recognition by the oarlocks. Consider it a cheap way to protect your investment in the oars. Also get buttons (the fat collars that prevent the oars from slipping overboard if you let go). Second, the oarlocks. Since you are using the oars as emergency backup, I think the clamp-on locks would be a mistake primarily because they do not let you feather the blades on the recovery. If you are out in any kind of breeze (10 kt or higher) and have to row upwind to get home, the added resistance of unfeathered blades will exhaust you in half the time. Further, if the going really gets tough you can 'change gears' by sliding the oars inboard a little bit. This will increase your leverage (and decrease your speed, but there are always tradeoffs), and is a technique that clamp-on oarlocks do not allow. Frankly, I'd go for round oarlocks. Once you put the sleeves and buttons on, the oarlock becomes captive on the loom of the oar and you need never worry about losing them. Too, the oars will never jump out of round oarlocks. Third, as some advice from a fellow whose primary boat has oars but no motor or sail, learn how to feather the blades on your recovery. This one trick makes rowing to windward almost as easy as rowing downwind, and once you learn it you'll never forget how to do it (kinda like riding a bike). I learned how almost 35 years ago, and it came back after all that time like I had never stopped rowing. Fourth, if you find the oars you have to be just too short, and if you happen to like puttering with wood, half a dozen spruce 2x4s or a couple of 1x8s, some glue, a saw, a plane and long winter evenings will give you exactly what you want for under $25. You can use construction grade wood. |
Oarlock questions
"Jim Willemin" wrote in message 7.131... "BetaB4" wrote in : I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks (05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that). My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area. The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars. Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not to get the oar protector sleeves? snip First, by all means get the sleeves - if you don't, your oars will get chewed up beyond all recognition by the oarlocks. Consider it a cheap way to protect your investment in the oars. Also get buttons (the fat collars that prevent the oars from slipping overboard if you let go). Second, the oarlocks. Since you are using the oars as emergency backup, I think the clamp-on locks would be a mistake primarily because they do not let you feather the blades on the recovery. If you are out in any kind of breeze (10 kt or higher) and have to row upwind to get home, the added resistance of unfeathered blades will exhaust you in half the time. Further, if the going really gets tough you can 'change gears' by sliding the oars inboard a little bit. This will increase your leverage (and decrease your speed, but there are always tradeoffs), and is a technique that clamp-on oarlocks do not allow. Frankly, I'd go for round oarlocks. Once you put the sleeves and buttons on, the oarlock becomes captive on the loom of the oar and you need never worry about losing them. Too, the oars will never jump out of round oarlocks. Third, as some advice from a fellow whose primary boat has oars but no motor or sail, learn how to feather the blades on your recovery. This one trick makes rowing to windward almost as easy as rowing downwind, and once you learn it you'll never forget how to do it (kinda like riding a bike). I learned how almost 35 years ago, and it came back after all that time like I had never stopped rowing. Fourth, if you find the oars you have to be just too short, and if you happen to like puttering with wood, half a dozen spruce 2x4s or a couple of 1x8s, some glue, a saw, a plane and long winter evenings will give you exactly what you want for under $25. You can use construction grade wood. I don't know about you BetaB4, but I'm going to listen to this guy. |
Oarlock questions
On Jun 17, 9:51*am, "BetaB4" wrote:
I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks (05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). *I just bought a set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. *(Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that). My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. *My boat is a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. *It already has oarlock holders mounted in place. *And, since I now have the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. *The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric motor is allowed. *So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area. The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. *I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. *Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars. Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not to get the oar protector sleeves? (NOTE: *About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct size oars to get. *I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right to you" -- duh. *I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. *The only oars that the store had were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63, and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. *So, I bought the pair for $63. *Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. *I think that ideally I should have bought about *8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the pair.) Well, those oars really won't move the boat in even the slightest wind or weather so what I would do is paint them orange and you can at least use them to flag down help... Really, get whatever locks you want and sleeves and then go down and take your boat out in a 5-10 mph breeze and try to row it with 6 foot oars, you will sell them and get proper oars after the first attempt. We all told you what oars and how long they should be when you first posted. Not trying to be an ass, but 6 foot oars are about as useful as a couple of spoons. The leverage and angle of attack, length of stroke etc are just not there... |
Oarlock questions
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 07:17:30 -0700 (PDT), "JustWaitAFrekinMinute!"
wrote: On Jun 17, 9:51*am, "BetaB4" wrote: I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks (05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). *I just bought a set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. *(Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that). My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. *My boat is a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. *It already has oarlock holders mounted in place. *And, since I now have the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. *The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric motor is allowed. *So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area. The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. *I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. *Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars. Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not to get the oar protector sleeves? (NOTE: *About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct size oars to get. *I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right to you" -- duh. *I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. *The only oars that the store had were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63, and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. *So, I bought the pair for $63. *Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. *I think that ideally I should have bought about *8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the pair.) Well, those oars really won't move the boat in even the slightest wind or weather so what I would do is paint them orange and you can at least use them to flag down help... Really, get whatever locks you want and sleeves and then go down and take your boat out in a 5-10 mph breeze and try to row it with 6 foot oars, you will sell them and get proper oars after the first attempt. We all told you what oars and how long they should be when you first posted. Not trying to be an ass, but 6 foot oars are about as useful as a couple of spoons. The leverage and angle of attack, length of stroke etc are just not there... If they're nicely varnished and have something cute painted on the blades, the look great over the fireplace in your beach house! http://www.originaloystershellart.co...b-cart/029.jpg So, if you own a beach house or two, then they *are* more useful than a couple of spoons. -- John H I once shook hands with a pudgy guy who: Sailed from San Francisco to Hawaii. Rounded Cape Horn, twice. Transited the Panama Canal. Has owned more than 20 boats in his lifetime. Sailed large boats competitively. Has been hundreds of miles from land in a powerboat under his command. And who set a new record for the most distance covered and most fish caught in the Chesapeake Bay in the shortest time! |
Oarlock questions
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 07:17:30 -0700 (PDT), "JustWaitAFrekinMinute!"
wrote: 6 foot oars are about as useful as a couple of spoons. The leverage and angle of attack, length of stroke etc are just not there... That's all true unfortunately. A 13 ft boat needs bigger oars, no question about it. You've gotten some good advice on oar locks also. My personal preference would be round ones with collars on the oars. On a safety note, "U" shaped oar locks must be removed at all times when not in use. They are a serious source of injury if someone falls on them. |
Oarlock questions
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:58:57 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote: On a safety note, "U" shaped oar locks must be removed at all times when not in use. They are a serious source of injury if someone falls on them. Locks that are not perminently attached to the oar will end up with Davy Jones. Casady |
Oarlock questions
Richard Casady wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:58:57 -0400, Wayne.B wrote: On a safety note, "U" shaped oar locks must be removed at all times when not in use. They are a serious source of injury if someone falls on them. Locks that are not perminently attached to the oar will end up with Davy Jones. Casady The horned oarlocks I had on my rowboats when I was a little kid had keepers. There was a hole through the bottom of the shaft of the oarlock, to which was attached a bronze chain with a little keeper on the end of it. There were also folding horned oarlocks. -- "John H" wrote in message ... Please note that Interstate 90 will be closed this weekend across South Dakota. This closure will allow the Federal Government free access to haul a 200 ton piece of coal to Mt. Rushmore so that President Obama can be added to the Presidents on the monument. -- John H -- John Herring, rec.boat's resident racist. |
Oarlock questions
HK wrote:
Richard Casady wrote: On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:58:57 -0400, Wayne.B wrote: On a safety note, "U" shaped oar locks must be removed at all times when not in use. They are a serious source of injury if someone falls on them. Locks that are not perminently attached to the oar will end up with Davy Jones. Casady The horned oarlocks I had on my rowboats when I was a little kid had keepers. There was a hole through the bottom of the shaft of the oarlock, to which was attached a bronze chain with a little keeper on the end of it. There were also folding horned oarlocks. Here's a photo of similar oarlocks with the small hole at the bottom of the shaft. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...uct.do?pid=305 -- "John H" wrote in message ... Please note that Interstate 90 will be closed this weekend across South Dakota. This closure will allow the Federal Government free access to haul a 200 ton piece of coal to Mt. Rushmore so that President Obama can be added to the Presidents on the monument. -- John H -- John Herring, rec.boat's resident racist. |
Oarlock questions
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 16:17:21 -0400, HK wrote:
Locks that are not perminently attached to the oar will end up with Davy Jones. Casady The horned oarlocks I had on my rowboats when I was a little kid had keepers. There was a hole through the bottom of the shaft of the oarlock, to which was attached a bronze chain with a little keeper on the end of it. There were also folding horned oarlocks. The rule of boats is that if you handle small untethered objects you will eventually drop some of them over the side. It is never stuff that floats. The oarlocks for the duckboat I had as a kid were horn type with a pin through the oar. Nonetheless, there was a hole in the end of the shaft, pointless as that was. Casady |
Oarlock questions
On Fri, 19 Jun 2009 16:23:13 -0500, Richard Casady
wrote: The oarlocks for the duckboat I had as a kid were horn type with a pin through the oar. Nonetheless, there was a hole in the end of the shaft, pointless as that was. A pin through the oar is undesirable for two reasons: One, it weakens the oar; and two, it prevents feathering the oar which creates a lot of extra wind resistance. A removable oarlock, not pinned to the oar, should have a chain attached to the bottom ending in a small bar which prevents accidental loss. |
Oarlock questions
Thanks all. Tons of great advice.
Based on what everyone wrote, my plan is to get round oarlocks, sleeves, and buttons. I'll probably just return the oars I bought (I still have the receipt) and look for longer oars elsewhere or order longer oars from the place where I bought the oars that I have. "BetaB4" wrote in message ... I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks (05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that). My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area. The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars. Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not to get the oar protector sleeves? (NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The only oars that the store had were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63, and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. So, I bought the pair for $63. Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I should have bought about 8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the pair.) |
Oarlock questions
"BetaB4" wrote in message ... Thanks all. Tons of great advice. Based on what everyone wrote, my plan is to get round oarlocks, sleeves, and buttons. I'll probably just return the oars I bought (I still have the receipt) and look for longer oars elsewhere or order longer oars from the place where I bought the oars that I have. "BetaB4" wrote in message ... I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks (05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that). My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area. The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars. Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not to get the oar protector sleeves? (NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The only oars that the store had were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63, and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. So, I bought the pair for $63. Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I should have bought about 8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the pair.) This place goes up to 16' length in oars. http://www.fancyoars-paddles.com/ |
Oarlock questions
On Jun 19, 4:17*pm, HK wrote:
Richard Casady wrote: On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:58:57 -0400, Wayne.B wrote: On a safety note, "U" shaped oar locks must be removed at all times when not in use. *They are a serious source of injury if someone falls on them. Locks that are not perminently attached to the oar will end up with Davy Jones. Casady The horned oarlocks I had on my rowboats when I was a little kid had keepers. There was a hole through the bottom of the shaft of the oarlock, to which was attached a bronze chain with a little keeper on the end of it. There were also folding horned oarlocks. Didn't you take a rowboat to the Bahamas and get a fireboat welcome in Freeport when you were a kid? |
Oarlock questions
"Don White" wrote in message
... This place goes up to 16' length in oars. http://www.fancyoars-paddles.com/ Thanks. That's an interesting website with a lot of good information. Their prices seem very good too. Their prices are in Canadian currency which means that when buying with U.S. dollars the price would be even less (1 U.S. dollar = about 1.12 Canadian dollars). They show how they make the oars, sizing information, etc. |
Oarlock questions
"BetaB4" wrote in message ... "Don White" wrote in message ... This place goes up to 16' length in oars. http://www.fancyoars-paddles.com/ Thanks. That's an interesting website with a lot of good information. Their prices seem very good too. Their prices are in Canadian currency which means that when buying with U.S. dollars the price would be even less (1 U.S. dollar = about 1.12 Canadian dollars). They show how they make the oars, sizing information, etc. If you could time it when our dollar is low.(a couple years ago) those oars would be almost half price to you. ;-) |
Oarlock questions
Loogypicker wrote:
On Jun 19, 4:17 pm, HK wrote: Richard Casady wrote: On Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:58:57 -0400, Wayne.B wrote: On a safety note, "U" shaped oar locks must be removed at all times when not in use. They are a serious source of injury if someone falls on them. Locks that are not perminently attached to the oar will end up with Davy Jones. Casady The horned oarlocks I had on my rowboats when I was a little kid had keepers. There was a hole through the bottom of the shaft of the oarlock, to which was attached a bronze chain with a little keeper on the end of it. There were also folding horned oarlocks. Didn't you take a rowboat to the Bahamas and get a fireboat welcome in Freeport when you were a kid? I'm sure he did - twice. |
Oarlock questions
On Jun 21, 12:00*pm, "BetaB4" wrote:
"Don White" wrote in message ... This place goes up to 16' length in oars. http://www.fancyoars-paddles.com/ Thanks. *That's an interesting website with a lot of good information. Their prices seem very good too. *Their prices are in Canadian currency which means that when buying with U.S. dollars the price would be even less (1 U.S. dollar = about 1.12 Canadian dollars). They show how they make the oars, sizing information, etc. Yeah, but their oars look like they were not finished.. square edges, ugly in my opinon... Try these guys, they have been doing it by hand forever... http://www.shawandtenney.com/index.php I have ordered their oars in the past, beautiful.. Look at a nice pair of spruce oars and like you said, round oarlocks, sleeves, buttons... Scotty from SmallBoats.com |
Oarlock questions
"Jim Willemin" wrote in message
7.131... Frankly, I'd go with the Fancy oars. The ones on eBay look a little unbalanced for that length, the handles are varnished (good for working up nice blisters, getting sticky, and generally less desireable than straight mineral oil), and I prefer tapered handles to the barrel handles. Further, I'm not sure I'd trust 1 1/2 inch looms not to break at an inconvenient time. The Fancy oars are tapered, which gives you strength where you need it, near the oarlock, and helps the balance on those long oars. You would have to get oarlocks to fit, but I bet the folks at Fancy could advise you on that. As to varnishing: if you do it yourself, figure four to six coats of a good spar varnish; each coat will take a day or two to dry to the point where you can sand it and apply the next coat. So to varnish them yourself, you'd need to get a quart of good spar varnish (ten bucks?), some paint thinner or mineral spirits (three bucks), and a good brush (ten bucks). Then there is your time varnishing and sanding. Sounds to me like USD 16 is a good deal, and I'm sure that if you asked them about varnishing the handles or not you would get good advice. Thanks again for your thoughts on all of this. I just got an email back from Fancy oars. $100 (U.S.) for unvarnished, $l16 (U.S.) for varnished -- both prices include shipping. They said that if I decide to use leathers or sleeves, I would definitely need to use #1 (2 1/4" I.D.) round oarlocks -- makes sense to me. They look like good oars to me, and definitely better than the ones on eBay. But, the bad news is that they wrote that the estimated time for them to complete making my oars would be 2 months from the date that they receive my payment. So, I wouldn't get them until the end of this summer. Earlier today, I returned the 6 1/2 foot oars that I bought 2 weeks ago. Now I have no oars. So, waiting until the end of this summer to get oars won't work for me. :-( |
Oarlock questions
"Jim Willemin" wrote in message
7.131... AND furthermo at over 5 inches blade width, the Ebay oars will prove very tiring for a long pull... just sayin, y'know. The Fancy oars have a 5 1/4 inch blade. The eBay oars have a 5 inch blade. The http://ShawAndTenney.com website says, "Our flat blade oars are available in lengths from 4'-6" to 21' in 6" increments. The standard flat blade is 5-1/2" wide and the blade length varies in proportion to the oar length." "Our narrow blade measures 4-5/8" wide. We recommend this blade for oars longer than 8' to reduce outboard weight. For those who prefer its classic appearance, this blade style is also available on shorter oars." |
Oarlock questions
On Wed, 24 Jun 2009 19:41:59 -0400, "BetaB4"
wrote: Earlier today, I returned the 6 1/2 foot oars that I bought 2 weeks ago. Now I have no oars. So, waiting until the end of this summer to get oars won't work for me. :-( Not sure where you live, but if needed oars fast I'd go to place that rents boats and get some oars there. They're always ordering oars. As long as you can get oars long enough, and they're only for when the motor konks outs, I wouldn't be particular, even if they're used. They might have the oarlocks already attached. Always drilled through the oar type where I've rented boats. Then all you need is sockets. Might get them at the boat rental place too. Don't let getting "the right oar" keep you off the water. --Vic |
Oarlock questions
Thanks. I checked out their website before (I think you may have given me
the web address). The oars they are selling are double the cost of oars a marine supply stores and triple the cost of the oars I checked out at Fancy Oars and on eBay. I only have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat, so it wouldn't make sense for me to spend $330 on a set of oars. "JustWaitAFrekinMinute!" wrote in message ... Yeah, but their oars look like they were not finished.. square edges, ugly in my opinon... Try these guys, they have been doing it by hand forever... http://www.shawandtenney.com/index.php I have ordered their oars in the past, beautiful.. Look at a nice pair of spruce oars and like you said, round oarlocks, sleeves, buttons... |
Oarlock questions
"Vic Smith" wrote in message
... Not sure where you live, but if needed oars fast I'd go to place that rents boats and get some oars there. They're always ordering oars. As long as you can get oars long enough, and they're only for when the motor konks outs, I wouldn't be particular, even if they're used. They might have the oarlocks already attached. Always drilled through the oar type where I've rented boats. Then all you need is sockets. Might get them at the boat rental place too. Don't let getting "the right oar" keep you off the water. Good idea. I'll check that out. Maybe they'll either have used oars for sale or they will know someone who does. I have also been checking out Craig's List etc. Used oars, new oars, it doesn't matter to me. |
Oarlock questions
On Jun 24, 8:56*pm, "BetaB4" wrote:
Thanks. *I checked out their website before (I think you may have given me the web address). * The oars they are selling are double the cost of oars a marine supply stores and triple the cost of the oars I checked out at Fancy Oars and on eBay. *I only have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat, so it wouldn't make sense for me to spend $330 on a set of oars. "JustWaitAFrekinMinute!" wrote in message ... Yeah, but their oars look like they were not finished.. square edges, ugly in my opinon... Try these guys, they have been doing it by hand forever... http://www.shawandtenney.com/index.php I have ordered their oars in the past, beautiful.. Look at a nice pair of spruce oars and like you said, round oarlocks, sleeves, buttons... Sounds good enough for me.. Yeah, S+T oars are expensive... Either way, look for tapered oars and the hardware you seem to already be sold on... You will do fine. How long are the oard you ordered? |
Oarlock questions
JustWaitAFrekinMinute! wrote:
Sounds good enough for me.. Yeah, S+T oars are expensive... Either way, look for tapered oars and the hardware you seem to already be sold on... You will do fine. How long are the oard you ordered? The oars that I originally bought by mistake were 6 1/2 feet long (Caviness Basswood BW65). I bought them about two weeks ago, and returned them yesterday. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat with a 60 inch span between the oarlocks. The oars that I have been checking out and pricing at S&T, Fancy Oars, eBay etc. are 9 feet, but I didn't place any order yet. |
Oarlock questions
On Wed, 24 Jun 2009 14:14:13 -0500, Jim Willemin
wrote: the handles are varnished (good for working up nice blisters, getting sticky, and generally less desireable than straight mineral oil), Yes of course. Mineral oil never drys and destroys wood, but it is just what you want. Don't even consider boiled linseed oil, as that stuff will dry hard, and protect the wood. Casady |
Oarlock questions
On Jun 25, 10:16*am, "BetaB4" wrote:
JustWaitAFrekinMinute! wrote: Sounds good enough for me.. Yeah, S+T oars are expensive... *Either way, look for tapered oars and the hardware you seem to already be sold on... You will do fine. How long are the oard you ordered? The oars that I originally bought by mistake were 6 1/2 feet long (Caviness Basswood BW65). *I bought them about two weeks ago, and returned them yesterday. *I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat with a 60 inch span between the oarlocks. The oars that I have been checking out and pricing at S&T, Fancy Oars, eBay etc. are 9 feet, but I didn't place any order yet. 9 feet works out about right. You may actually enjoy rowing the boat, a good setup can be very relaxing actually. If the entry edges are to square or "hard" it can lead to shoulder fatugue or even injury. That is what I noticed about the oars you linked to. Of course if you are buying them unfinished you could always round the entry a bit before you apply your finish. Just don't take too much away from the paddle area. Even a small 1" to 1 1/2" radius will make a huge difference in the "hit" when the oars enter the stroke.. Of course if you are only using them in an emergency it shouldn't make much difference. Either way, the right size oars may have you rowing more often than you expected... Good luck, Scotty |
Oarlock questions
On Wednesday, June 17, 2009 at 9:51:56 AM UTC-4, BetaB4 wrote:
I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks (05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that). My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area. The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars. Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not to get the oar protector sleeves? (NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The only oars that the store had were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63, and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. So, I bought the pair for $63. Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I should have bought about 8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the pair.) |
Oarlock questions
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Oarlock questions
On Wednesday, June 17, 2009 at 9:51:56 AM UTC-4, BetaB4 wrote:
I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks (05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that). My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area. The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars. Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not to get the oar protector sleeves? (NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The only oars that the store had were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63, and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. So, I bought the pair for $63. Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I should have bought about 8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the pair.) My name is Philip, I recently mounted a pair of oars on a 14' aluminum jonboat.The problem i'm having is not which oarlock to use(I think that is a matter of preference) BUT how to raise the oarlock sockets, in order to effeceintly row.I mounted swivel seats to the original square sets,& that makes it very uncomfortable to row (the oars are to far below my chest, therefore i'm reaching dowm to an awkward position to row). Any advice on this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thank you |
Oarlock questions
On Thursday, June 18, 2009 at 9:55:51 AM UTC-4, mmc wrote:
"Jim Willemin" wrote in message 7.131... "BetaB4" wrote in : I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks (05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that). My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area. The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars. Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not to get the oar protector sleeves? snip First, by all means get the sleeves - if you don't, your oars will get chewed up beyond all recognition by the oarlocks. Consider it a cheap way to protect your investment in the oars. Also get buttons (the fat collars that prevent the oars from slipping overboard if you let go). Second, the oarlocks. Since you are using the oars as emergency backup, I think the clamp-on locks would be a mistake primarily because they do not let you feather the blades on the recovery. If you are out in any kind of breeze (10 kt or higher) and have to row upwind to get home, the added resistance of unfeathered blades will exhaust you in half the time. Further, if the going really gets tough you can 'change gears' by sliding the oars inboard a little bit. This will increase your leverage (and decrease your speed, but there are always tradeoffs), and is a technique that clamp-on oarlocks do not allow. Frankly, I'd go for round oarlocks. Once you put the sleeves and buttons on, the oarlock becomes captive on the loom of the oar and you need never worry about losing them. Too, the oars will never jump out of round oarlocks. Third, as some advice from a fellow whose primary boat has oars but no motor or sail, learn how to feather the blades on your recovery. This one trick makes rowing to windward almost as easy as rowing downwind, and once you learn it you'll never forget how to do it (kinda like riding a bike). I learned how almost 35 years ago, and it came back after all that time like I had never stopped rowing. Fourth, if you find the oars you have to be just too short, and if you happen to like puttering with wood, half a dozen spruce 2x4s or a couple of 1x8s, some glue, a saw, a plane and long winter evenings will give you exactly what you want for under $25. You can use construction grade wood. I don't know about you BetaB4, but I'm going to listen to this guy. Hi BetaB4, My name is Philip. It sounds to me like you are experienced @ rowing. I'm seeking advice on achieving the correct height of my oars above the gunwales.Currently they are to low between my legs to row.Any help will be appreciated. |
Oarlock questions
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