On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 07:05:00 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Wednesday, June 17, 2009 at 9:51:56 AM UTC-4, BetaB4 wrote:
I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set
of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get.
The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for
$63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to
what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that).

My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot
aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already
has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and
the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for
getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies
or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric
motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to
shore or to a docking area.

The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right
onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped
open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see
"oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go
over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from
rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be
a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the
type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars.

Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not
to get the oar protector sleeves?

(NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply
store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct
size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but
they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right
to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across
between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The only oars that the store had
were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63,
and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. So, I bought the pair
for $63. Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and
the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars
with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I
should have bought about 8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is
that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the
pair.)


Wednesday, June 17, 2009??

Is the question still pertinent?

On Wednesday, June 17, 2009 at 9:51:56 AM UTC-4, BetaB4 wrote:
I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set
of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get.
The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for
$63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to
what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that).

My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot
aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already
has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and
the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for
getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies
or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric
motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to
shore or to a docking area.

The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right
onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped
open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see
"oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go
over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from
rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be
a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the
type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars.

Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not
to get the oar protector sleeves?

(NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply
store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct
size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but
they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right
to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across
between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The only oars that the store had
were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63,
and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. So, I bought the pair
for $63. Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and
the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars
with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I
should have bought about 8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is
that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the
pair.)

My name is Philip, I recently mounted a pair of oars on a 14' aluminum jonboat.The problem i'm having is not which oarlock to use(I think that is a matter of preference) BUT how to raise the oarlock sockets, in order to effeceintly row.I mounted swivel seats to the original square sets,& that makes it very uncomfortable to row (the oars are to far below my chest, therefore i'm reaching dowm to an awkward position to row). Any advice on this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

On Thursday, June 18, 2009 at 9:55:51 AM UTC-4, mmc wrote:
"Jim Willemin" wrote in message
7.131...
"BetaB4" wrote in
:

I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a
set of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks
to get. The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot
wooden oars, for $63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong
size oars according to what people here recommended -- see below about
why I did that).

My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot
aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It
already has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have
the oars and the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks.
The purpose for getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in
case the battery dies or the electric motor breaks down while out in
waters where only an electric motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I
want to be able to row the boat to shore or to a docking area.

The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp
right onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and,
3) U-shaped open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the
top. I also see "oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called)
that I can buy to go over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from
wear and damage from rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar
protector sleeves might be a good idea for two of the oarlock types,
and would not be necessary for the type of oarlocks that clamp
directly to the oars.

Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or
not to get the oar protector sleeves?

snip

First, by all means get the sleeves - if you don't, your oars will get
chewed up beyond all recognition by the oarlocks. Consider it a cheap
way to protect your investment in the oars. Also get buttons (the fat
collars that prevent the oars from slipping overboard if you let go).

Second, the oarlocks. Since you are using the oars as emergency backup,
I think the clamp-on locks would be a mistake primarily because they do
not let you feather the blades on the recovery. If you are out in any
kind of breeze (10 kt or higher) and have to row upwind to get home, the
added resistance of unfeathered blades will exhaust you in half the
time. Further, if the going really gets tough you can 'change gears' by
sliding the oars inboard a little bit. This will increase your leverage
(and decrease your speed, but there are always tradeoffs), and is a
technique that clamp-on oarlocks do not allow. Frankly, I'd go for
round oarlocks. Once you put the sleeves and buttons on, the oarlock
becomes captive on the loom of the oar and you need never worry about
losing them. Too, the oars will never jump out of round oarlocks.

Third, as some advice from a fellow whose primary boat has oars but no
motor or sail, learn how to feather the blades on your recovery. This
one trick makes rowing to windward almost as easy as rowing downwind,
and once you learn it you'll never forget how to do it (kinda like
riding a bike). I learned how almost 35 years ago, and it came back
after all that time like I had never stopped rowing.

Fourth, if you find the oars you have to be just too short, and if you
happen to like puttering with wood, half a dozen spruce 2x4s or a couple
of 1x8s, some glue, a saw, a plane and long winter evenings will give
you exactly what you want for under $25. You can use construction grade
wood.

I don't know about you BetaB4, but I'm going to listen to this guy.

Hi BetaB4, My name is Philip. It sounds to me like you are experienced @ rowing. I'm seeking advice on achieving the correct height of my oars above the gunwales.Currently they are to low between my legs to row.Any help will be appreciated.

On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 07:18:06 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Wednesday, June 17, 2009 at 9:51:56 AM UTC-4, BetaB4 wrote:
I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set
of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get.
The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for
$63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to
what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that).

My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot
aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already
has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and
the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for
getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies
or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric
motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to
shore or to a docking area.

The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right
onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped
open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see
"oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go
over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from
rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be
a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the
type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars.

Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not
to get the oar protector sleeves?

(NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply
store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct
size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but
they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right
to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across
between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The only oars that the store had
were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63,
and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. So, I bought the pair
for $63. Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and
the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars
with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I
should have bought about 8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is
that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the
pair.)

My name is Philip, I recently mounted a pair of oars on a 14' aluminum jonboat.The problem i'm having is not which oarlock to use(I think that is a matter of preference) BUT how to raise the oarlock sockets, in order to effeceintly row.I mounted swivel seats to the original square sets,& that makes it very uncomfortable to row (the oars are to far below my chest, therefore i'm reaching dowm to an awkward position to row). Any advice on this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Phillip, the post to which you are responding, BetaB4's, was made in 2009. I've not seen that name
in rec.boats within the past few years.

It sounds like you're trying to raise the oarlock mount on your jon boat. Perhaps a couple pictures
would help out. There are some folks here who can come up with some good fabricating ideas.

On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 07:18:06 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

My name is Philip, I recently mounted a pair of oars on a 14' aluminum jonboat.The problem i'm having is not which oarlock to use(I think that is a matter of preference) BUT how to raise the oarlock sockets, in order to effeceintly row.I mounted swivel seats to the original square sets,& that makes it very uncomfortable to row (the oars are to far below my chest, therefore i'm reaching dowm to an awkward position to row). Any advice on this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

The simple answer would be to make the spike that goes into the socket
longer but I fear that would put a lot of extra stress on the socket.
If you could extend that longer rod through the bottom of the socket
and anchor it to the bottom of the boat somehow you would transfer
some of that load.
The other way would be to extend the socket up with an "A" frame that
supports it on the gunwale fore and aft. You still have the issue of
side to side stresses.

wrote:
On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 07:18:06 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

My name is Philip, I recently mounted a pair of oars on a 14' aluminum
jonboat.The problem i'm having is not which oarlock to use(I think that
is a matter of preference) BUT how to raise the oarlock sockets, in
order to effeceintly row.I mounted swivel seats to the original square
sets,& that makes it very uncomfortable to row (the oars are to far
below my chest, therefore i'm reaching dowm to an awkward position to
row). Any advice on this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

The simple answer would be to make the spike that goes into the socket
longer but I fear that would put a lot of extra stress on the socket.
If you could extend that longer rod through the bottom of the socket
and anchor it to the bottom of the boat somehow you would transfer
some of that load.
The other way would be to extend the socket up with an "A" frame that
supports it on the gunwale fore and aft. You still have the issue of
side to side stresses.


I would check out Drift Boat setups.

On Thu, 02 Jun 2016 11:58:20 -0400, wrote:

On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 07:18:06 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

My name is Philip, I recently mounted a pair of oars on a 14' aluminum jonboat.The problem i'm having is not which oarlock to use(I think that is a matter of preference) BUT how to raise the oarlock sockets, in order to effeceintly row.I mounted swivel seats to the original square sets,& that makes it very uncomfortable to row (the oars are to far below my chest, therefore i'm reaching dowm to an awkward position to row). Any advice on this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

The simple answer would be to make the spike that goes into the socket
longer but I fear that would put a lot of extra stress on the socket.
If you could extend that longer rod through the bottom of the socket
and anchor it to the bottom of the boat somehow you would transfer
some of that load.
The other way would be to extend the socket up with an "A" frame that
supports it on the gunwale fore and aft. You still have the issue of
side to side stresses.

Maybe a way to quickly remove the add-on seat would be the best option. He didn't mention if he had
an engine or the oars were his primary power source.

On 6/2/2016 10:05 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, June 17, 2009 at 9:51:56 AM UTC-4, BetaB4 wrote:
I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set
of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get.
The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for
$63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to
what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that).

My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot
aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already
has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and
the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for
getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies
or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric
motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to
shore or to a docking area.

The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right
onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped
open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see
"oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go
over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from
rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be
a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the
type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars.

Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not
to get the oar protector sleeves?

(NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply
store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct
size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but
they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right
to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across
between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The only oars that the store had
were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63,
and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. So, I bought the pair
for $63. Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and
the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars
with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I
should have bought about 8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is
that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the
pair.)

What if you run out of gas, your battery goes flat, and an oarlock
breaks.? Have you considered a backup sail rig?

On 6/2/2016 10:18 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, June 17, 2009 at 9:51:56 AM UTC-4, BetaB4 wrote:
I had previously posted a question about buying oars and oarlocks
(05/11/2009 -- "How/Where to buy Oars and Oarlocks"). I just bought a set
of wooden oars, and now I have to decide on what type of oarlocks to get.
The oars that I bought are new Caviness basswood 6 1/2 foot wooden oars, for
$63 for the pair. (Unfortunately, I bought the wrong size oars according to
what people here recommended -- see below about why I did that).

My question now is what type of oarlocks to get. My boat is a 13-foot
aluminum fishing boat with a gas engine and an electric motor. It already
has oarlock holders mounted in place. And, since I now have the oars and
the oarlock holders, I just need to get the oarlocks. The purpose for
getting the oars is really just for safety reasons in case the battery dies
or the electric motor breaks down while out in waters where only an electric
motor is allowed. So, if I get stuck, I want to be able to row the boat to
shore or to a docking area.

The kinds of oarlocks that I see a 1) oarlocks that appear to clamp right
onto the oars; 2) round oarlocks that the oars go through; and, 3) U-shaped
open oarlocks with or without a bar that goes across the top. I also see
"oar protector" sleeves (or whatever they are called) that I can buy to go
over the oars, and I guess protect the oars from wear and damage from
rubbing against the oarlocks. Seems like the oar protector sleeves might be
a good idea for two of the oarlock types, and would not be necessary for the
type of oarlocks that clamp directly to the oars.

Any suggestions on which type of oarlocks I should get, and whether or not
to get the oar protector sleeves?

(NOTE: About why I bought the wrong size oars --- I was in a boat supply
store and I didn't have or remember the formula for calculating the correct
size oars to get. I figured I could ask the "experts" at the store, but
they said they never heard of any formula and "just get whatever feels right
to you" -- duh. I have a 13-foot aluminum fishing boat and the span across
between the oarlock holders is 60-inches. The only oars that the store had
were the pair of 6 1/2 foot Caviness basswood oars that I bought for $63,
and a pair of 7-foot Caviness basswood oars for $119. So, I bought the pair
for $63. Since then, I went to another boat supply store (West Marine) and
the biggest they had were two unmatched 8-foot Caviness basswood wooden oars
with different size paddle ends for about $77 each. I think that ideally I
should have bought about 8 1/2 foot wooden oars, but the bottom line is
that I now have the two 6 1/2 foot wooden oars that I bought for $63 for the
pair.)

My name is Philip, I recently mounted a pair of oars on a 14' aluminum jonboat.The problem i'm having is not which oarlock to use(I think that is a matter of preference) BUT how to raise the oarlock sockets, in order to effeceintly row.I mounted swivel seats to the original square sets,& that makes it very uncomfortable to row (the oars are to far below my chest, therefore i'm reaching dowm to an awkward position to row). Any advice on this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Your oars are too long.