I am reassembling a tillerpilot with a wired remote. I notice that the
manufacturer originally used what looks like a black rubbery compound for
waterproofing. I suspect was a silicone rubber product. What is the
recommended sealer for plastic assemblies such as remotes, autopilots, etc.?

--
Good luck and good sailing.
s/v Kerry Deare of Barnegat
http://home.comcast.net/~kerrydeare

On Mon, 8 Oct 2007 07:01:29 -0400, "Armond Perretta"
wrote:

I am reassembling a tillerpilot with a wired remote. I notice that the
manufacturer originally used what looks like a black rubbery compound for
waterproofing. I suspect was a silicone rubber product. What is the
recommended sealer for plastic assemblies such as remotes, autopilots, etc.?

I avoid silicone sealants since nothing else sticks to them, or to
where they were.

I'd use LifeCaulk or some other non-silicone sealant.


--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca

"Armond Perretta" wrote in
:

What is the
recommended sealer for plastic assemblies such as remotes,
autopilots,
etc.?


RTV

http://tinyurl.com/2nrbbn

Clear RTV....none finer at any price.
Comes right off when you want to peel stuff apart...NOT A GLUE OR
BONDING agent...it's a SEALER

Permatex gasket products also make great sealers, even at engine
temperatures!
http://tinyurl.com/kdyzb

available at lots of auto parts places, Wally World, Lowes, Home
De-pot, etc.

Don't tell anyone you didn't buy it from the most expensive
"marine" place in town, though....(c;

Larry
--
You can tell there's extremely
intelligent life in the universe
because they have never called Earth.

Peter Bennett wrote in
news.com:

I avoid silicone sealants since nothing else sticks to them, or
to
where they were.



He didn't want a glue...he wanted a sealer.

I never figured out why boaters use glues as sealers.

Larry
--
You can tell there's extremely
intelligent life in the universe
because they have never called Earth.

In article , Larry wrote:
"Armond Perretta" wrote in
:

What is the
recommended sealer for plastic assemblies such as remotes,
autopilots,
etc.?


RTV

http://tinyurl.com/2nrbbn

Clear RTV....none finer at any price.
Comes right off when you want to peel stuff apart...NOT A GLUE OR
BONDING agent...it's a SEALER

Permatex gasket products also make great sealers, even at engine
temperatures!
http://tinyurl.com/kdyzb

available at lots of auto parts places, Wally World, Lowes, Home
De-pot, etc.

Don't tell anyone you didn't buy it from the most expensive
"marine" place in town, though....(c;

To me, silicone rtv is a sealer or a glue, its rtv. I always recomended
Permatex "sensor safe" products for electronics. It wasn't clear. Silicone is
to also not a good water vapor in my opinion. An old boating article in Nuts &
Volts said something about this, and also recommended using an enamel
coating first to act as a vapor barier. Lacquer is also not a water vapor
barier. I tried using lacquer nail polish on stuff, and it doesn't work
like enamel.

greg

On Oct 9, 8:54 am, (G) wrote:
In article , Larry wrote:
"Armond Perretta" wrote in
:

What is the
recommended sealer for plastic assemblies such as remotes,
autopilots,
etc.?

RTV

http://tinyurl.com/2nrbbn

Clear RTV....none finer at any price.
Comes right off when you want to peel stuff apart...NOT A GLUE OR
BONDING agent...it's a SEALER

Permatex gasket products also make great sealers, even at engine
temperatures!
http://tinyurl.com/kdyzb

available at lots of auto parts places, Wally World, Lowes, Home
De-pot, etc.

Don't tell anyone you didn't buy it from the most expensive
"marine" place in town, though....(c;

To me, silicone rtv is a sealer or a glue, its rtv. I always recomended
Permatex "sensor safe" products for electronics. It wasn't clear. Silicone is
to also not a good water vapor in my opinion. An old boating article in Nuts &
Volts said something about this, and also recommended using an enamel
coating first to act as a vapor barier. Lacquer is also not a water vapor
barier. I tried using lacquer nail polish on stuff, and it doesn't work
like enamel.

greg- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If your going to use silicone to seal anything with electronic
components you need to use electronics grade silicone. Standard
silicone sealants give off acetic acid as they cure, this vapor can
react with electronic components and damage them. Electronics grade
silicones do not give off acetic acid vapors as they cure, "sensor
save" products are also designed such that they do not give off acetic
acid vapors as they cure. I know on my Furuno radar installation
instructions their's a note about the use of silicone around the
radome for this specific reason.

John

On Oct 10, 12:25 pm, Capt John wrote:
If your going to use silicone to seal anything with electronic
components you need to use electronics grade silicone. Standard
silicone sealants give off acetic acid as they cure, this vapor can
react with electronic components and damage them.

I agree with this. I learned this the hard way long ago. Got some
rtv on the back of a circuit board and in short order, you could pull
some of the components right off the board as the acid softened the
solder joints!

Eric

Armond Perretta wrote:
What is the
recommended sealer for plastic assemblies such as remotes, autopilots, etc.?



For sealing the box, you want a "neutral cure" (non corrosive) RTV, such as:

http://www.matweb.com/search/Specifi...snum=PGESIL036


If you are coating the circuit board, you want Humiseal.

http://www.humiseal.com/


Kevin Gallimore


----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

In article , axolotl wrote:
Armond Perretta wrote:
What is the
recommended sealer for plastic assemblies such as remotes, autopilots, etc.?



For sealing the box, you want a "neutral cure" (non corrosive) RTV, such as:

http://www.matweb.com/search/Specifi...snum=PGESIL036


If you are coating the circuit board, you want Humiseal.

http://www.humiseal.com/


Kevin Gallimore

I did a little experiment to see if vapors could do something to a bare copper
board. Nothing seen. I never saw any corrosive effects anytime, but components
may be harmed I guess.

greg

Wax?

Terry K