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"markvictor" wrote in
oups.com: why then do you insulate it from ground? Old habits are hard to die. You don't need to insulate the top of it, just the feed point.....well, unless you run a wire in parallel with it up 30' and attach the tuner ACROSS the backstay. I used to take my Yaesu FT-900 and a Nye-Viking 3KW manual antenna tuner to sea on Claire's Navie. That tuner will resonate almost any length antenna to almost any impedance at high power. It's MUCH better made than that little plastic Icom box with the tiny relays and crappy little coils. This sucker is made for 40A of antenna current and has a coil to take it. I grounded the tuner through a jumper cable strap to the base of the mainmast and fed the port side chainplate to the port shroud, which wasn't grounded, shunt-feeding the mainmast and all the rigging attached to it. As long as you didn't use it around 9.5 Mhz, where something resonated enough to bite your hand holding the mike, even on 100 watts, it got impressive signal reports on 20, 40 and 75 meter SSB from offshore. In the case of the little AT-130 autotuner (and its clones), you use an insulated backstay because the autotuners have a limited range of impedances they can actually resonate across the HF spectrum. It's just easier on the non-technical amoung us. |
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