I found that the Marinetics panels were of very high quality and used this
for both the AC and DC panels. I will admit that they are very expensive
(around $2000 each, new) however, I picked up both used from a Shannon 50
refit for $200..

When I found some cosmetic problems, (paint over spray on the meter faces),
the people at Marinetics were very helpful in sending me replacement meter
faces at a very nominal cost.

On the opposite extreme, while assisting a friend rebuild an AC/DC panel, we
order a simple SeaDog unit.. The quality was so bad that I called SeaDog
about it and there attitude was, you get what you pay for. These panel are
made up 'offshore' and they admit that they have no control over the quality
of the components.

I ended up rewiring the intire panel to eliminate the very cheap spade
connectors and low quality automotive class electrical wiring.. In some
instantaces the switches and component ratings were less than the circuit
breaker current rating, etc.

I don't recommend purchase of a prewired panel unless they use marine
quality connectors, wire, etc. (Frankly, I kinda enjoy doing the back panel
wiring).

Bottom line, Just as the guy at SeaDog said "You get what you pay for!!"

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Steve,
I found a "surplus" SeaDog panel at our local marine used
equipment store. I liked the layout and size, but was less than
thrilled with the price and quality.
Being an electronics type, I'll have to make this a project, and
build my own I guess...just have to recall the phone number of the outfit
that can make the raw panel using laser machining.
NormB

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 08:34:58 -0700, "Steve" wrote:

I found that the Marinetics panels were of very high quality and used this
for both the AC and DC panels. I will admit that they are very expensive
(around $2000 each, new) however, I picked up both used from a Shannon 50
refit for $200..

When I found some cosmetic problems, (paint over spray on the meter faces),
the people at Marinetics were very helpful in sending me replacement meter
faces at a very nominal cost.

On the opposite extreme, while assisting a friend rebuild an AC/DC panel, we
order a simple SeaDog unit.. The quality was so bad that I called SeaDog
about it and there attitude was, you get what you pay for. These panel are
made up 'offshore' and they admit that they have no control over the quality
of the components.

I ended up rewiring the intire panel to eliminate the very cheap spade
connectors and low quality automotive class electrical wiring.. In some
instantaces the switches and component ratings were less than the circuit
breaker current rating, etc.

I don't recommend purchase of a prewired panel unless they use marine
quality connectors, wire, etc. (Frankly, I kinda enjoy doing the back panel
wiring).

Bottom line, Just as the guy at SeaDog said "You get what you pay for!!"

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

If you want to do it from scratch check out
http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/ They supplied my watermaker control panel
in 1/8" aluminum. It is a really professional looking job AND it was a heck
of a lot cheaper than laminated plastic from the neighborhood trophy
engraver. Using their free software you can design a breaker panel exactly
the way you want it. Bolt in some Cole Hersee breakers, buss bars, a couple
of meters and maybe some Blue Sea lockout sliders and back light labels.

"engsol" wrote in message
...
Steve,
I found a "surplus" SeaDog panel at our local marine used
equipment store. I liked the layout and size, but was less than
thrilled with the price and quality.
Being an electronics type, I'll have to make this a project, and
build my own I guess...just have to recall the phone number of the outfit
that can make the raw panel using laser machining.
NormB

On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 08:34:58 -0700, "Steve" wrote:

I found that the Marinetics panels were of very high quality and used
this
for both the AC and DC panels. I will admit that they are very expensive
(around $2000 each, new) however, I picked up both used from a Shannon 50
refit for $200..

When I found some cosmetic problems, (paint over spray on the meter
faces),
the people at Marinetics were very helpful in sending me replacement
meter
faces at a very nominal cost.

On the opposite extreme, while assisting a friend rebuild an AC/DC panel,
we
order a simple SeaDog unit.. The quality was so bad that I called SeaDog
about it and there attitude was, you get what you pay for. These panel
are
made up 'offshore' and they admit that they have no control over the
quality
of the components.

I ended up rewiring the intire panel to eliminate the very cheap spade
connectors and low quality automotive class electrical wiring.. In some
instantaces the switches and component ratings were less than the circuit
breaker current rating, etc.

I don't recommend purchase of a prewired panel unless they use marine
quality connectors, wire, etc. (Frankly, I kinda enjoy doing the back
panel
wiring).

Bottom line, Just as the guy at SeaDog said "You get what you pay for!!"

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:PGSdd.76089$tU4.24432@okepread06...
If you want to do it from scratch check out
http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/ They supplied my watermaker control
panel
in 1/8" aluminum. It is a really professional looking job AND it was a
heck
of a lot cheaper than laminated plastic from the neighborhood trophy
engraver. Using their free software you can design a breaker panel exactly
the way you want it. Bolt in some Cole Hersee breakers, buss bars, a
couple
of meters and maybe some Blue Sea lockout sliders and back light labels.

This sounds like a great service - I imagine though that it will cost a few
$$$ no matter what, even when compared with a standard Blue Seas panel.

I presently have a panel about 11" x 18" that was probably installed by a
marina - It is a sort of brown fibreboard hinged on bottom so that it folds
down for access. It has three 6-circuit black Bakelite fuse panels mounted
side by side. It also has a voltmeter and a 12v outlet with maplight. It is
fed from house batteries via a Blue Seas switchable 100 Amp breaker.

What I am thinking of doing, is making (or ordering) a new black plastic or
aluminum panel. I think that I might stay with fuses for most of circuits,
because many require quite low amperages - can't see point of using breakers
for a 1 or 2 amp circuit for instruments and radios.

I have thought about a system where the 100 amp breaker/switch feeds say
three or four breaker/switches for larger loads plus two banks of fuses for
the lighter loads..
I might add a more modern voltmeter and even perhaps an ammeter to monitor
overall draw on batteries.

A few questions:

- Any thoughts about push button circuit breakers vs magnetic breakers?
- Other than convenience, any reason not to use fuses?

Graham