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Ed Price
 
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Default Are zap stoppers really needed on alternators?


"phil" wrote in message
et...
So Ed....

Again, I will ask you just like I did during our EMC discussion, what
percentage of boaters have an engineering degree and would understand
joules, ohms, volts, ohms law, etc. to even have an inkling of what the
information meant if it were indeed included on the web page? Even if it
were included, how would it relavent unless the matching information were
provided by the alternator manufacturer under load dump conditions?

I find it interesting that most people don't have a clue how electricity
works and couldn't troubleshoot a light switch, much less understand
alternator load dump waveforms versus load and rpm, joules dumped, whether
their alternator diodes were damaged, and on and on. How many people come
on here and ask "I have no spark and I replaced everything such as the

coil,
plug wires, plugs, coil driver components (mechanical or electronic), and
there still is no spark".

I would suggest most people would just get a protector and just feel good
that there was some additional protection from battery disconnects.

To me, load dump is not mysterious, I deal with it all the time in my job
(don't ask cause I won't tell you).

Phil



Phil:

You are truly a wonderful and mysterious duck.

I will not ask your occupation, partially because I do not care, and
because, I assume, should you tell me, then I suppose you'll have to kill
me.

I do find it troubling that, as in the EMC discussion, you are again arguing
for the cause of ignorance. You say that Zap-stop shouldn't need to provide
technical info since the alternator manufacturers don't provide load-dump
info. And then you say that most in this group wouldn't know what the
information meant anyway.

OK, if that's your opinion, I can't change your mind.

Ed

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Gw
 
Posts: n/a
Default Are zap stoppers really needed on alternators?

Ok here's my take on it.

If you need a zap stopper then you should rewire your system.

I see 1 or 2 boats every year that has problems because someone turned
off the switch while the alt was running. When I get finished it
doesn't matter what they do with the switch as i try to murphy-proof
the system.

The output of the big alternator should go direct to the big bank of
batteries. The sense for this alternator must go back to same bank of
batteries.

Now you can use the switch to combine the banks have more then one
switch to do other things with, have a battery combiner in curcuit or
even an isolater to auto slow charge the engine banks (at main bank
voltage minus isolater drop).

Why are we having this didcussion if your boat is wired up right you
need no zap stop.

The engine manufacture can not do it right as he has no idea how your
banks are hooked up he can only put alternator output to starter. You
must wire it up right.
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phil
 
Posts: n/a
Default Are zap stoppers really needed on alternators?

yup...I guess I am a mysterious duck. And, that's fine with me. Keeps
everyone off balance.

My position is that no one is going to learn about load dump and emc
characteristics / countermeasures by reading this newsgroup. If they truly
were interested, they would research the topic on google or visit their
local library.


"Ed Price" wrote in message
news:1GrTa.3104$Ye.475@fed1read02...

"phil" wrote in message
et...
So Ed....

Again, I will ask you just like I did during our EMC discussion, what
percentage of boaters have an engineering degree and would understand
joules, ohms, volts, ohms law, etc. to even have an inkling of what the
information meant if it were indeed included on the web page? Even if

it
were included, how would it relavent unless the matching information

were
provided by the alternator manufacturer under load dump conditions?

I find it interesting that most people don't have a clue how electricity
works and couldn't troubleshoot a light switch, much less understand
alternator load dump waveforms versus load and rpm, joules dumped,

whether
their alternator diodes were damaged, and on and on. How many people

come
on here and ask "I have no spark and I replaced everything such as the

coil,
plug wires, plugs, coil driver components (mechanical or electronic),

and
there still is no spark".

I would suggest most people would just get a protector and just feel

good
that there was some additional protection from battery disconnects.

To me, load dump is not mysterious, I deal with it all the time in my

job
(don't ask cause I won't tell you).

Phil



Phil:

You are truly a wonderful and mysterious duck.

I will not ask your occupation, partially because I do not care, and
because, I assume, should you tell me, then I suppose you'll have to kill
me.

I do find it troubling that, as in the EMC discussion, you are again

arguing
for the cause of ignorance. You say that Zap-stop shouldn't need to

provide
technical info since the alternator manufacturers don't provide load-dump
info. And then you say that most in this group wouldn't know what the
information meant anyway.

OK, if that's your opinion, I can't change your mind.

Ed



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