Anybody have any experience use teak oil??

We want to go from Cetol to Oil..



Hanz

"Hanz Schmidt" wrote in message
...
Anybody have any experience use teak oil??

We want to go from Cetol to Oil..



Hanz



Why to teak oil instead of some other substance? Is this exterior? I'm
thinking about removing the Cetol and using something like TeakGuard. If
others have used that, I'd like to hear about your experiences.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

wrote:
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 16:29:10 -0400, Hanz Schmidt wrote:


Anybody have any experience use teak oil??

We want to go from Cetol to Oil..



Hanz


What's your goal in doing this?


I'm tired of Cetol and Deks Olje.

Hanz

On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 16:29:10 -0400, Hanz Schmidt
wrote:

Anybody have any experience use teak oil??

We want to go from Cetol to Oil..

===================================

Teak oil has the advantage of minimal prep work and ease of
application if you keep after it faithfully.

On the negative side it attracts dirt, darkens as it ages, and
requires frequent re-application.

This is one of the best that I've used:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ite+Teak +Oil

or

http://tinyurl.com/578e44

I did that. The Cetol came off easily with a heat gun and the beauty of the
oiled teak was magical. It was apparent within a couple weeks though that
more oil was needed. I then discovered the difference between doing trim
and big areas like decks. Maybe there are people skillful enough to keep
from dripping oil on non-skid while oiling numerous handrails and other trim
but I'm not one of them. The drips are invisible until a few days later
when they turn into black stains and are very difficult to remove. I gave
up re-oiling. Buy fall, even in Maine's short season and climate, the teak
was all black and ugly. BTW I used the oil considered best by the concensus
here.

I then went to Bristol Finish with which I have a love / hate relationship.
It's a commitment because I don't think there is any going back. I chose it
because my boys at that point thought of sailing as an activity where you
plant your sneakers on every piece of wood and twist back and forth as you
watch the boat sail. Yelling at them wasn't consistent with my goal of
getting them to enjoy it. The other reason for the choice is that you can
slap on six coats in a day, sand off the rough spots, and put on a careful
finish coat. That speedy build up is important working outside in our
climate and under the pressure of other spring commissioning tasks.

However, it loves to bubble and run. Your brush work must be impecable and
I've always been a poor painter. Touch the wet surface a second time with
the brush and you will get bubbles. If there is no wind or the wind is too
strong, you will get bubbles. Since you can't rebrush, there is no way I've
found to get it thin enough to not run on a vertical surface. You have to
be sure that the surface is cooler than the stuff in the can or you will get
bubbles. You will get bubbles if you do it perfectly. You will get runs if
you do it perfectly.

However, it is very durable. You can also patch worn spots without redoing
the whole surface. I've ended up with what looks like many coats of varnish
poorly applied. If you look at the boat, it looks great. People come
aboard and say, "Nice varnish work!". If a boat yard varnisher comes aboard
at a marina, he gags and turns away for a second. Like a lot of things on
a boat, you have to look critically and directly at the finish itself to see
the defects. Another reason for using it was that my teak was old and has
been scraped and refinished so many times that I can't afford to strip,
scrape, and sand much more. There are 1/8" high pads around the winches
where the coaming trim has been scraped down around them.

I'm not sure what I would do if starting over with another boat but this
stuff is worth considering if you are skillfull with a brush and not too
particular. It is used on some very expensive new yachts so there are ways
to do it right but their customer service was not able to explain them to me
on the phone. It's worth considering though. Probably looks better than
Cetol overall and doesn't need attention during the sailing season.

--
Roger Long

On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 16:29:10 -0400, Hanz Schmidt
wrote:

Anybody have any experience use teak oil??

We want to go from Cetol to Oil..

I have always suspected that teak oils, one and all, were a swindle.
I am partial to tung oil, although I haven't tried it on teak. The
cruise ships have three inch thick teak decks and they don't finish
them. I believe they sand them once a year. Lots of very expensive
custom guns have finished with plain old boiled linseed. Done that
myself.

Casady

Make sure it is BOILED linseed oil. You can't believe the mess you'll have
after a few weeks if you use the raw stuff by mistake.

Those "custom guns" you mention using oil have people to keep after the teak
daily. From my experience using oil, that's what it takes.

--
Roger Long

Roger Long wrote:
Make sure it is BOILED linseed oil. You can't believe the mess you'll have
after a few weeks if you use the raw stuff by mistake.

Those "custom guns" you mention using oil have people to keep after the teak
daily. From my experience using oil, that's what it takes.

--
Roger Long


I've always used Teak oil in the past, and my experience has been that
it's good for a couple of months in the sun (in San Diego). At home (in
Phoenix) I've been using a product from Rockler called Outdoor Oil,
which is a UV-stabilized linseed oil. I've used it on my South facing
mahogany doors, and some redwood planters in the backyard, and it has
stood up well for well over a year now (8 coats). The plus side of this
stuff is that you just need to scuff it up with a white 3-M pad between
initial coats, and prior to later re-coating. It has a satin sheen
(although the more coats, the higher the gloss), so if you want high
gloss, this won't do it. Neither will Teak oil for that matter. And
neither is suitable for decking with foot traffic - just not hard enough.

I haven't tried the stuff on Teak yet, or in a marine environment, but I
plan to redo my boat (no Teak decking) with it when I haul this fall.

Keith Hughes

For exterior brightwork consider "Honey
Teak" (www.signaturefinish.com) a 2 part + 2part catalyzed acrylic-
urethane copolymer system (base + clear overcoat).
Been there done that .... oil, resinated oil, paint over, epoxy
encapsulation then varnish over, multic coat varnish combos of oil
based with urethanr over then clear 'interthane' over that, cetol,
bristol, etc. etc. etc.
I have a 'teakey', have been using Honey Teak and Im in my 8th season
with only a few major spot repairs. Requires a yearly slop coat of
'clear'. Sands with a purple 3M Scotchbrite pad - just 'scuff'
it.

...... but, this stuff can be hand rubbed or powerbuffed to a gloss
that will make a Hinckley turn green with envy (almost).
The manufacturer is direct sales and will 'split' so you only need the
amount you 'need'. Somewhat expensive but when you amortize over all
the years that it stays intact winds up being the cheapest overall
versus the highest gloss that 'lasts'. It goes on initially with a
dark amber hue but quickly fades to an amber (like a multicoat oil-
based varnish), becomes lighter and lighter hued the longer you have
it on ... and you can actually see the grain like a 'real' varnish.

Im into my 8th season and its only now needing major repair (blackened
scarf joints, etc.).
The 'instructions' are somewhat vague ... my recommendation is to
apply at the 'coldest' ambient temperature so that you get good flow-
out and lay it on THICK (I use 3 base coat applications) so you get
the best UV protection of the wood cells beneath. You can put on many
coats in a single day on horizontal surfaces; but, needs the vertical
surface to cure well before successive build-up coats. I powerbuff
instead of hand rubbing after flat sanding to develop the 'glowing
iridescent/shimmering patina' of a 'first rate' varnish job. Can be
easily removed with normal 'paint lifters/strippers'. HT has a sharp
learning curve for application.