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#1
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Teak oil - Good or Bad
Anybody have any experience use teak oil??
We want to go from Cetol to Oil.. Hanz |
#2
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Teak oil - Good or Bad
"Hanz Schmidt" wrote in message
... Anybody have any experience use teak oil?? We want to go from Cetol to Oil.. Hanz Why to teak oil instead of some other substance? Is this exterior? I'm thinking about removing the Cetol and using something like TeakGuard. If others have used that, I'd like to hear about your experiences. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com |
#3
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Teak oil - Good or Bad
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#4
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Teak oil - Good or Bad
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 16:29:10 -0400, Hanz Schmidt
wrote: Anybody have any experience use teak oil?? We want to go from Cetol to Oil.. =================================== Teak oil has the advantage of minimal prep work and ease of application if you keep after it faithfully. On the negative side it attracts dirt, darkens as it ages, and requires frequent re-application. This is one of the best that I've used: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ite+Teak +Oil or http://tinyurl.com/578e44 |
#5
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Teak oil - Good or Bad
I did that. The Cetol came off easily with a heat gun and the beauty of the
oiled teak was magical. It was apparent within a couple weeks though that more oil was needed. I then discovered the difference between doing trim and big areas like decks. Maybe there are people skillful enough to keep from dripping oil on non-skid while oiling numerous handrails and other trim but I'm not one of them. The drips are invisible until a few days later when they turn into black stains and are very difficult to remove. I gave up re-oiling. Buy fall, even in Maine's short season and climate, the teak was all black and ugly. BTW I used the oil considered best by the concensus here. I then went to Bristol Finish with which I have a love / hate relationship. It's a commitment because I don't think there is any going back. I chose it because my boys at that point thought of sailing as an activity where you plant your sneakers on every piece of wood and twist back and forth as you watch the boat sail. Yelling at them wasn't consistent with my goal of getting them to enjoy it. The other reason for the choice is that you can slap on six coats in a day, sand off the rough spots, and put on a careful finish coat. That speedy build up is important working outside in our climate and under the pressure of other spring commissioning tasks. However, it loves to bubble and run. Your brush work must be impecable and I've always been a poor painter. Touch the wet surface a second time with the brush and you will get bubbles. If there is no wind or the wind is too strong, you will get bubbles. Since you can't rebrush, there is no way I've found to get it thin enough to not run on a vertical surface. You have to be sure that the surface is cooler than the stuff in the can or you will get bubbles. You will get bubbles if you do it perfectly. You will get runs if you do it perfectly. However, it is very durable. You can also patch worn spots without redoing the whole surface. I've ended up with what looks like many coats of varnish poorly applied. If you look at the boat, it looks great. People come aboard and say, "Nice varnish work!". If a boat yard varnisher comes aboard at a marina, he gags and turns away for a second. Like a lot of things on a boat, you have to look critically and directly at the finish itself to see the defects. Another reason for using it was that my teak was old and has been scraped and refinished so many times that I can't afford to strip, scrape, and sand much more. There are 1/8" high pads around the winches where the coaming trim has been scraped down around them. I'm not sure what I would do if starting over with another boat but this stuff is worth considering if you are skillfull with a brush and not too particular. It is used on some very expensive new yachts so there are ways to do it right but their customer service was not able to explain them to me on the phone. It's worth considering though. Probably looks better than Cetol overall and doesn't need attention during the sailing season. -- Roger Long |
#6
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Teak oil - Good or Bad
On Wed, 23 Jul 2008 16:29:10 -0400, Hanz Schmidt
wrote: Anybody have any experience use teak oil?? We want to go from Cetol to Oil.. I have always suspected that teak oils, one and all, were a swindle. I am partial to tung oil, although I haven't tried it on teak. The cruise ships have three inch thick teak decks and they don't finish them. I believe they sand them once a year. Lots of very expensive custom guns have finished with plain old boiled linseed. Done that myself. Casady |
#7
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Teak oil - Good or Bad
Make sure it is BOILED linseed oil. You can't believe the mess you'll have
after a few weeks if you use the raw stuff by mistake. Those "custom guns" you mention using oil have people to keep after the teak daily. From my experience using oil, that's what it takes. -- Roger Long |
#8
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Teak oil - Good or Bad
Roger Long wrote: Make sure it is BOILED linseed oil. You can't believe the mess you'll have after a few weeks if you use the raw stuff by mistake. Those "custom guns" you mention using oil have people to keep after the teak daily. From my experience using oil, that's what it takes. -- Roger Long I've always used Teak oil in the past, and my experience has been that it's good for a couple of months in the sun (in San Diego). At home (in Phoenix) I've been using a product from Rockler called Outdoor Oil, which is a UV-stabilized linseed oil. I've used it on my South facing mahogany doors, and some redwood planters in the backyard, and it has stood up well for well over a year now (8 coats). The plus side of this stuff is that you just need to scuff it up with a white 3-M pad between initial coats, and prior to later re-coating. It has a satin sheen (although the more coats, the higher the gloss), so if you want high gloss, this won't do it. Neither will Teak oil for that matter. And neither is suitable for decking with foot traffic - just not hard enough. I haven't tried the stuff on Teak yet, or in a marine environment, but I plan to redo my boat (no Teak decking) with it when I haul this fall. Keith Hughes |
#9
posted to rec.boats.cruising
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Teak oil - Good or Bad
For exterior brightwork consider "Honey
Teak" (www.signaturefinish.com) a 2 part + 2part catalyzed acrylic- urethane copolymer system (base + clear overcoat). Been there done that .... oil, resinated oil, paint over, epoxy encapsulation then varnish over, multic coat varnish combos of oil based with urethanr over then clear 'interthane' over that, cetol, bristol, etc. etc. etc. I have a 'teakey', have been using Honey Teak and Im in my 8th season with only a few major spot repairs. Requires a yearly slop coat of 'clear'. Sands with a purple 3M Scotchbrite pad - just 'scuff' it. ...... but, this stuff can be hand rubbed or powerbuffed to a gloss that will make a Hinckley turn green with envy (almost). The manufacturer is direct sales and will 'split' so you only need the amount you 'need'. Somewhat expensive but when you amortize over all the years that it stays intact winds up being the cheapest overall versus the highest gloss that 'lasts'. It goes on initially with a dark amber hue but quickly fades to an amber (like a multicoat oil- based varnish), becomes lighter and lighter hued the longer you have it on ... and you can actually see the grain like a 'real' varnish. Im into my 8th season and its only now needing major repair (blackened scarf joints, etc.). The 'instructions' are somewhat vague ... my recommendation is to apply at the 'coldest' ambient temperature so that you get good flow- out and lay it on THICK (I use 3 base coat applications) so you get the best UV protection of the wood cells beneath. You can put on many coats in a single day on horizontal surfaces; but, needs the vertical surface to cure well before successive build-up coats. I powerbuff instead of hand rubbing after flat sanding to develop the 'glowing iridescent/shimmering patina' of a 'first rate' varnish job. Can be easily removed with normal 'paint lifters/strippers'. HT has a sharp learning curve for application. |
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