Advice on refridgeration unit please
 

Bruce in Bangkok wrote in
:

Well, first of all you need a "Larry Lesson" on how batteries charge
as your 110 amp alternator is just a waste of money.



No, no! Everyone knows a boat battery can be charged in 3 minutes if you
buy a big enough alternator!

Don't let logic, battery chemistry and me upset it.

Advice on refridgeration unit please
 

Bruce in Bangkok wrote in
:

Don;t know what happened but I see I sent several copies of the same
message. My apologies to all for the excess bandwidth taken.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)



Serves ya right.....Larry Lesson indeed!

Advice on refridgeration unit please
 

On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 15:42:40 +0000, Larry wrote:

Bruce in Bangkok wrote in
:

Well, first of all you need a "Larry Lesson" on how batteries charge
as your 110 amp alternator is just a waste of money.



No, no! Everyone knows a boat battery can be charged in 3 minutes if you
buy a big enough alternator!

Don't let logic, battery chemistry and me upset it.

I had a 1988 mustang ragtop that had about ten interior lights and a
small battery. If you left a door slightly ajar, the battery would be
completely, 0 volts, dead in 45 minutes or so. A ten amp charger would
put in enough juice to start it in ten seconds. Then comes the charge
from zero at the maximum rate. Needless to say, that battery didn't
last long.

Casady

Advice on refridgeration unit please
 

On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 15:41:19 +0000, in message

Larry wrote:

I wonder how one of these little $100 fridges would work with their useless
little freezers filled with blocks of aluminum as holding plates so you
could flip them on when you crank the engine (or install a simple relay to
do it automatically). Btu is Btu. It's not rocket science. The more you
open it, the more it draws. The cheap one's R-value could be easily
increased with some sheet styrofoam to pack it in with or glued to its
sides.

I have some big aluminum heat sinks I got from somewhere. I think I'll
play a little with them stuffed into the little freezer and see how that
works as a holding plate....hmmm...(c;

Badly.

You would be much better off filling the freezer with a phase change
fluid that melts/freezes somewhere in the desired temperature range.
Water, for instance...

The exterior of a typical little bar fridge is a heat dissipation
surface, so insulating it from the surroundings would be a bad idea.

Ryk

Advice on refridgeration unit please
 

On Jul 18, 8:42*am, Larry wrote:
Bruce in Bangkok wrote :

Well, first of all you need a "Larry Lesson" on how batteries charge
as your 110 amp alternator is just a waste of money.

No, no! *Everyone knows a boat battery can be charged in 3 minutes if you
buy a big enough alternator!

Don't let logic, battery chemistry and me upset it.

In practice high output alternators make a big difference getting up
to about 80% charge. That can be very, very useful. It may be that
you have some logic and battery chemistry in your text books but I
live on my boat and go voyaging a bit. High output alternators are a
good thing.

Bummer about the Smart Car. AFIK, they aren't importing the diesel
version because in CA you can't buy diesel cars w/less than 7k miles
on them. As they say the road to hell is paved with good
intentions... But, what you really want is a diesel plug in
hybrid...

-- Tom.

Advice on refridgeration unit please
 

On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 07:45:40 +0700, Bruce in Bangkok
wrote:

As I'm sure you are aware, a real sailor will eat nothing but salt
junk and ship's biscuit. None of this namby-pamby refrigerated stuff
for he man, AND, since you don't drink beer you have even less need
for a fridge then usual.

The RN rum issue was originally a substitute for beer. Small beer, so
called, one per cent alcohol or so. It was sure as hell not
refrigerated.[or even iced]

Casady

Advice on refridgeration unit please
 

On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 15:41:19 +0000, Larry wrote:

Herodotus wrote in
:

The idea of a holding plate is that I could utilise periods of greater
charge whereas a conventional fridge runs off and on over the entire
day.



I wonder how one of these little $100 fridges would work with their useless
little freezers filled with blocks of aluminum as holding plates so you
could flip them on when you crank the engine (or install a simple relay to
do it automatically). Btu is Btu. It's not rocket science. The more you
open it, the more it draws. The cheap one's R-value could be easily
increased with some sheet styrofoam to pack it in with or glued to its
sides.

I have some big aluminum heat sinks I got from somewhere. I think I'll
play a little with them stuffed into the little freezer and see how that
works as a holding plate....hmmm...(c;

That's what I admire about you Larry - a true lateral thinker.

Seriously.

I'd be interested to see what results you get.

cheers
Peter

Advice on refridgeration unit please
 

On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 15:41:19 +0000, Larry wrote:

Herodotus wrote in
:

The idea of a holding plate is that I could utilise periods of greater
charge whereas a conventional fridge runs off and on over the entire
day.



I wonder how one of these little $100 fridges would work with their useless
little freezers filled with blocks of aluminum as holding plates so you
could flip them on when you crank the engine (or install a simple relay to
do it automatically). Btu is Btu. It's not rocket science. The more you
open it, the more it draws. The cheap one's R-value could be easily
increased with some sheet styrofoam to pack it in with or glued to its
sides.

I have some big aluminum heat sinks I got from somewhere. I think I'll
play a little with them stuffed into the little freezer and see how that
works as a holding plate....hmmm...(c;


The problem with the "household" type of fridge is the lack of
insulation. I just looked at one in a 45 ft. boat and it looks like
the compressor is running much longer then a "built in" with thick
insulation.

However, I am in the process of rebuilding an old motor cruiser and
plan to install a small house fridge as the boat will generally either
have the engines running or be tapped into a marina.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

Advice on refridgeration unit please
 

On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 15:42:40 +0000, Larry wrote:

Bruce in Bangkok wrote in
:

Well, first of all you need a "Larry Lesson" on how batteries charge
as your 110 amp alternator is just a waste of money.



No, no! Everyone knows a boat battery can be charged in 3 minutes if you
buy a big enough alternator!

Don't let logic, battery chemistry and me upset it.


(I was trying to help the guy.......)
Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

Advice on refridgeration unit please
 

On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 11:36:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Jul 18, 8:42*am, Larry wrote:
Bruce in Bangkok wrote :

Well, first of all you need a "Larry Lesson" on how batteries charge
as your 110 amp alternator is just a waste of money.

No, no! *Everyone knows a boat battery can be charged in 3 minutes if you
buy a big enough alternator!

Don't let logic, battery chemistry and me upset it.

In practice high output alternators make a big difference getting up
to about 80% charge. That can be very, very useful. It may be that
you have some logic and battery chemistry in your text books but I
live on my boat and go voyaging a bit. High output alternators are a
good thing.

So do Larry, Peter and myself. (Well, larry doesn't live on one, he
just voyages).

Frankly, in my experience a 110 amp alternator and a 440 A.H. battery
bank is overkill,


Bummer about the Smart Car. AFIK, they aren't importing the diesel
version because in CA you can't buy diesel cars w/less than 7k miles
on them. As they say the road to hell is paved with good
intentions... But, what you really want is a diesel plug in
hybrid...

-- Tom.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)