Geoff,
Nothing is bullet proof. One water tank is not acceptable with or without a
watermaker. There are a myiad of things that could foul the contents of a
water tank and a watermaker is just one of them. With two tanks and a
failure, you have a back-up. Make space, generate a second tank and direct
the output of the watermaker to just one of them with a transfer pump that
can move contents from one to the other. Just consider that you are 10 days
from the nearest water supply and your only, very ample water supply becomes
contaminated and your plan is?
Steve

"Geoff Schultz" wrote in message
.. .
Steve,

How are you claiming that watermakers fail? The only failures that I've
heard of are by cracking the membrane due to over pressurization or
sudden pressure change. In general they fail when someone hasn't
pickeled the system and then you don't get much output or the TDS is too
high. I've never heard of one failing during a production run.

I always check the TDS meter at the start of the run and at the end of
the run and I always see better TDS readings at the end. I pump
directly into my main (and only) tank and have never had any problems.


-- Geoff

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in
:

Peter,
You have received some pretty good responses to your query, but what
troubles me is your query. Please tell me you are NOT pumping the
output of your watermaker into your main water tank, because it very
much sounds like that is what you are doing. Please be aware that
these watermakers fail and that their failure can contaminate the
output. It is always wise to use an intermediate tank and then do a
manual transfer after checking that the generated water is OK.
Steve


"Herodotus" wrote in message
...
Hi,
Does anybody know if an activated charcoal filter removes chlorine
from fresh water such as that taken on board from municipal supplies

I read the following within an article in "Ocean Navigator" - online

"A charcoal filter is also required to prevent chlorine in water from
dockside sources getting to the membrane. It should be placed in the
system before the watermaker when tank water is used during
backflushing."

Further, I have had an activated charcoal filter for drinkable water
using the cartridge disposable household plumbing in-line filter for
years but have no idea as to how often one should change them.

Anybody know?

regards
Peter






--
-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org

Steve,

Every boat is a series of compromises. Over the life span of a boat,
how many times do you think that your boat will be 10 days away from
another source of fresh water? For me it's been never and I sereously
doubt that I'll ever make a Pacific crossing, which is the only time
that I could foresee this as an issue. Other than that, I've got
sufficient other liquids aboard that we could consume before getting to
a port with water.

Two water tanks would be great, as would two fuel tanks, an additional
main/foresail, etc, but storage space is also a very important commodity
for those things that are needed on a regular basis.

I'm personally more worried about the mechanical portion of the
watermaker failing. I actually have two watermakers aboard, one 12V and
the other 120V. I thought that I had things covered, but last year when
we were in the Acklin islands of tbe Bahamas, a high pressure hose
developed a leak and I didn't have a spare. Getting one shipped in
(along with a spare) was a huge headache, costly, and took about a week.

-- Geoff

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in
:

Geoff,
Nothing is bullet proof. One water tank is not acceptable with or
without a watermaker. There are a myiad of things that could foul the
contents of a water tank and a watermaker is just one of them. With
two tanks and a failure, you have a back-up. Make space, generate a
second tank and direct the output of the watermaker to just one of
them with a transfer pump that can move contents from one to the
other. Just consider that you are 10 days from the nearest water
supply and your only, very ample water supply becomes contaminated and
your plan is? Steve

"Geoff Schultz" wrote in message
.. .
Steve,

How are you claiming that watermakers fail? The only failures that
I've heard of are by cracking the membrane due to over pressurization
or sudden pressure change. In general they fail when someone hasn't
pickeled the system and then you don't get much output or the TDS is
too high. I've never heard of one failing during a production run.

I always check the TDS meter at the start of the run and at the end
of the run and I always see better TDS readings at the end. I pump
directly into my main (and only) tank and have never had any
problems.


-- Geoff

"Steve Lusardi" wrote in
:

Peter,
You have received some pretty good responses to your query, but what
troubles me is your query. Please tell me you are NOT pumping the
output of your watermaker into your main water tank, because it very
much sounds like that is what you are doing. Please be aware that
these watermakers fail and that their failure can contaminate the
output. It is always wise to use an intermediate tank and then do a
manual transfer after checking that the generated water is OK.
Steve


"Herodotus" wrote in message
...
Hi,
Does anybody know if an activated charcoal filter removes chlorine
from fresh water such as that taken on board from municipal
supplies

I read the following within an article in "Ocean Navigator" -
online

"A charcoal filter is also required to prevent chlorine in water
from dockside sources getting to the membrane. It should be placed
in the system before the watermaker when tank water is used during
backflushing."

Further, I have had an activated charcoal filter for drinkable
water using the cartridge disposable household plumbing in-line
filter for years but have no idea as to how often one should change
them.

Anybody know?

regards
Peter






--
-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org






--
-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org

On Sat, 07 Jun 2008 05:26:45 -0500, Geoff Schultz
wrote:

....
I'm personally more worried about the mechanical portion of the
watermaker failing. I actually have two watermakers aboard, one 12V and
the other 120V. I thought that I had things covered, but last year when
we were in the Acklin islands of tbe Bahamas, a high pressure hose
developed a leak and I didn't have a spare. Getting one shipped in
(along with a spare) was a huge headache, costly, and took about a week.

-- Geoff

....which reminds me how impressed I was when a mechanic took off a
worn flexible brake hose, unscrewed the terminals and using only a
vice and a wrench (and a hose end tool), he cut and fitted another
medium pressure hose for an aircraft. Those reusable fittings seem
like a very very useful accesory for rugged voyagers.

Brian W

On Fri, 6 Jun 2008 22:58:37 +0200, "Steve Lusardi"
wrote:

Nothing is bullet proof. One water tank is not acceptable with or without a
watermaker. There are a myiad of things that could foul the contents of a
water tank and a watermaker is just one of them. With two tanks and a
failure, you have a back-up. Make space, generate a second tank and direct
the output of the watermaker to just one of them with a transfer pump that
can move contents from one to the other. Just consider that you are 10 days
from the nearest water supply and your only, very ample water supply becomes
contaminated and your plan is?

Carry gallon jugs of distilled water, at least 1/2 gallon per person
per day. There is a liferaft model RO unit that is hand operated. The
boat that played the Andrea Gale in the movie 'Perfect Storm' ran out
of water from too many showers, and fell back on bottled water for
drinking.

Casady

On Fri, 06 Jun 2008 07:13:21 +1000, Herodotus
wrote:

I have
two main water tanks and at present I can't see how I can lead output
to an intermediate without all the lugging up the companionway or
installing an extra pump. Space is also an issue here.

Are the two water tanks isolated from each other? If so, run the
output of the watermaker to just one of them, and use a transfer pump
to fill the second tank if you are satisfied with water quality.

On Sat, 07 Jun 2008 17:30:53 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Fri, 06 Jun 2008 07:13:21 +1000, Herodotus
wrote:

I have
two main water tanks and at present I can't see how I can lead output
to an intermediate without all the lugging up the companionway or
installing an extra pump. Space is also an issue here.

Are the two water tanks isolated from each other? If so, run the
output of the watermaker to just one of them, and use a transfer pump
to fill the second tank if you are satisfied with water quality.

Hi Wayne,
Yes they are and I believe that I can easily test the watermaker
output before I divert the outflow to the other tank once one is full.

I usually carry at least 4 25 litre jerry cans of water anyway so if
one tank did perchance become contaminated by a possible failure of
the membrane, I would still have enough water to get to port. My
longest crossing in the near future is from Panama to the Marquesas
which at the worst case scenario would be 40 days.

Thanks everyone for your input. I do appreciate it. I only wish that I
had access to such as this group when I started building my boat in
1989. It would have made the world of difference.

regards and thanks
Peter