I have an aluminum fuel tank which has about a 6-8" inspection cover made
out of the same material. The cover screws through a rubber type gasket
and the screws are threaded into the tank material. One or two of the
screws have stripped the threads and the tank weeps diesel primarily when
it's completely full. Basically I think that I have 2 options to repair
this.

1) Redrill/tap with larger screws
2) JB Weld a nut on the inside.

Any comments/suggestions?

-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org

On Mon, 12 May 2008 14:00:47 -0500, Geoff Schultz
wrote:

I have an aluminum fuel tank which has about a 6-8" inspection cover made
out of the same material. The cover screws through a rubber type gasket
and the screws are threaded into the tank material. One or two of the
screws have stripped the threads and the tank weeps diesel primarily when
it's completely full. Basically I think that I have 2 options to repair
this.

1) Redrill/tap with larger screws
2) JB Weld a nut on the inside.

Any comments/suggestions?

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...Sea rch&meta=

--

On Mon, 12 May 2008 20:15:09 +0100, Goofball_star_dot_etal
wrote:

On Mon, 12 May 2008 14:00:47 -0500, Geoff Schultz
wrote:

I have an aluminum fuel tank which has about a 6-8" inspection cover made
out of the same material. The cover screws through a rubber type gasket
and the screws are threaded into the tank material. One or two of the
screws have stripped the threads and the tank weeps diesel primarily when
it's completely full. Basically I think that I have 2 options to repair
this.

1) Redrill/tap with larger screws
2) JB Weld a nut on the inside.

Any comments/suggestions?

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...Sea rch&meta=

--
or clinch nut.. or rivet nut
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...ch+nut&spell=1
for thinner panels.

Heli-coils for thicker plate, typically 2x thread diameter.
Both generally need a tool to fit.

Just use a larger and self tap it.

Goofball_star_dot_etal wrote:

On Mon, 12 May 2008 20:15:09 +0100, Goofball_star_dot_etal
wrote:

On Mon, 12 May 2008 14:00:47 -0500, Geoff Schultz
wrote:

I have an aluminum fuel tank which has about a 6-8" inspection cover made
out of the same material. The cover screws through a rubber type gasket
and the screws are threaded into the tank material. One or two of the
screws have stripped the threads and the tank weeps diesel primarily when
it's completely full. Basically I think that I have 2 options to repair
this.

1) Redrill/tap with larger screws
2) JB Weld a nut on the inside.

Any comments/suggestions?

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...Sea rch&meta=

--
or clinch nut.. or rivet nut
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...ch+nut&spell=1
for thinner panels.

Heli-coils for thicker plate, typically 2x thread diameter.
Both generally need a tool to fit.

On Mon, 12 May 2008 20:19:46 GMT, Dry1 wrote:

Just use a larger and self tap it.


Or use chewing gum.

Goofball_star_dot_etal wrote in
:

On Mon, 12 May 2008 20:15:09 +0100, Goofball_star_dot_etal
wrote:

On Mon, 12 May 2008 14:00:47 -0500, Geoff Schultz
wrote:

I have an aluminum fuel tank which has about a 6-8" inspection cover
made out of the same material. The cover screws through a rubber
type gasket and the screws are threaded into the tank material. One
or two of the screws have stripped the threads and the tank weeps
diesel primarily when it's completely full. Basically I think that I
have 2 options to repair this.

1) Redrill/tap with larger screws
2) JB Weld a nut on the inside.

Any comments/suggestions?

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...04-11%2CGGLD%3
Aen&q=cinch+nuts%2C++helicoils&btnG=Search&met a=

--
or clinch nut.. or rivet nut
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...1,GGLD:en&sa=X
&oi=spell&resnum=1&ct=result&cd=1&q=clinch+nut&spe ll=1 for thinner
panels.

Heli-coils for thicker plate, typically 2x thread diameter.
Both generally need a tool to fit.

Considering that I only have 2 screws to repair, I really don't want to
purchase a specialized tool. The helicoil is for much thicker material
than I have. However, thanks for the suggestion.

-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org

On Mon, 12 May 2008 19:48:06 -0500, Geoff Schultz
wrote:

Goofball_star_dot_etal wrote in
:

On Mon, 12 May 2008 20:15:09 +0100, Goofball_star_dot_etal
wrote:

On Mon, 12 May 2008 14:00:47 -0500, Geoff Schultz
wrote:

I have an aluminum fuel tank which has about a 6-8" inspection cover
made out of the same material. The cover screws through a rubber
type gasket and the screws are threaded into the tank material. One
or two of the screws have stripped the threads and the tank weeps
diesel primarily when it's completely full. Basically I think that I
have 2 options to repair this.

1) Redrill/tap with larger screws
2) JB Weld a nut on the inside.

Any comments/suggestions?

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...04-11%2CGGLD%3
Aen&q=cinch+nuts%2C++helicoils&btnG=Search&meta =

--
or clinch nut.. or rivet nut
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...1,GGLD:en&sa=X
&oi=spell&resnum=1&ct=result&cd=1&q=clinch+nut&spe ll=1 for thinner
panels.

Heli-coils for thicker plate, typically 2x thread diameter.
Both generally need a tool to fit.

Considering that I only have 2 screws to repair, I really don't want to
purchase a specialized tool. The helicoil is for much thicker material
than I have. However, thanks for the suggestion.

-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org


Perhaps oversize:
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en...G=Search&meta=
Stronger than pre-tapped holes due to work hardening and tight fit.

"Geoff Schultz" wrote in message
.. .
I have an aluminum fuel tank which has about a 6-8" inspection cover made
out of the same material. The cover screws through a rubber type gasket
and the screws are threaded into the tank material. One or two of the
screws have stripped the threads and the tank weeps diesel primarily when
it's completely full. Basically I think that I have 2 options to repair
this.

1) Redrill/tap with larger screws
2) JB Weld a nut on the inside.

Any comments/suggestions?

-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org

I suggest a third and fourth option:

3) Don't fill the tank completely full. Sail more and motor less.
4) Don't fill the tank at all - sell the motorboat and get a real sailboat.
Do you really think you'll enjoy paying ten bucks a gallon for diesel fuel
and that's what it's coming to sooner than you might think.

Wilbur Hubbard

"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in
ews.com:


"Geoff Schultz" wrote in message
.. .
I have an aluminum fuel tank which has about a 6-8" inspection cover
made
out of the same material. The cover screws through a rubber type
gasket and the screws are threaded into the tank material. One or two
of the screws have stripped the threads and the tank weeps diesel
primarily when it's completely full. Basically I think that I have 2
options to repair this.

1) Redrill/tap with larger screws
2) JB Weld a nut on the inside.

Any comments/suggestions?

-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org

I suggest a third and fourth option:

3) Don't fill the tank completely full. Sail more and motor less.
4) Don't fill the tank at all - sell the motorboat and get a real
sailboat.

As someone who spends all of his time behind a keyboard, I might suggest
the same. I have a hard time figuring out which is larger: your self
inflated ego or your mouth. Both are obnoxiously over sized. When you
have something useful to contribute, please feel free to. Otherwise, just
shut up and leave the discussion to people who actually are trying to help.

-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org

Hi Geoff,

Here is another option:
Make up a backing plate for each cleanout ~ 1/4" thick and remove the
center. The plate should look like an aluminum donut assuming the
inspection cover is round. Drill and tap the backing plate to match the
existing cover plate holes. I suggest using machine, hex head bolts. Then
drill out the existing screw holes in the tank making them a bit larger so
that the new fasteners are threaded to the backing plate only.

If the cover plates and the existing access holes are rectangular, the
backing plates will slide into the tank easily. If the access holes are
round, cut the backing plate in one location ( from somewhere on the outside
circumference towards the center of the of the backing plate). You can now
bend the backing plate slightly, slide the tank edge into the slot/kerf and
maneuver it into the hole in the tank. I thought about cutting the backing
plate into two pieces and bolting them to the top of the tank, but it seemed
to make extra work and more precise activity

Clamp the backing plate in place and insert the screws without installing
the cover. Once everything is lined up, drill two small holes for a flat
head machine screw and attach the backing plate to the inside of the top of
the tank. Now the backing plate is in place and ready to accept a new
gasket and the cover.

When I installed two inspection plates on my tank, I used the above process
and can easily remove the covers without the backing plates falling into the
tank BTW - I used 1/4" or larger hex head fasteners instead of screws.

S/V Endeavor


"Geoff Schultz" wrote in message
.. .
I have an aluminum fuel tank which has about a 6-8" inspection cover made
out of the same material. The cover screws through a rubber type gasket
and the screws are threaded into the tank material. One or two of the
screws have stripped the threads and the tank weeps diesel primarily when
it's completely full. Basically I think that I have 2 options to repair
this.

1) Redrill/tap with larger screws
2) JB Weld a nut on the inside.

Any comments/suggestions?

-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org