"jeff" wrote in message
. ..
tom wrote:
When my solar panels are charging (~14V) and I try to start the
engine, it basically acts like the batteries are dead. No turnover,
just hear the click of the solenoid. I unplug the solar panels and
it starts right up? Any ideas what could be causing this? Wierd.
Tom

Is shore power (or another source) plugged in? Sometime solar's high
Voltage with low current confuses other sources.


Perhaps if we had more info about the circuit.... are they connected
directly to the batteries? do they run through something else first? As you
asked, is the AC on?

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"Capt. JG" wrote in message
news:fOydnd44kq4V6oLVnZ2dnUVZ_jCdnZ2d@bayareasolut ions...

Perhaps if we had more info about the circuit.... are they connected
directly to the batteries? do they run through something else first? As
you asked, is the AC on?


Clueless! Totally clueless! Stick with your "It's a short" fantasy!

--
Gregory Hall

On May 5, 5:56 pm, "Gregory Hall" wrote:
"Capt. JG" wrote in message

news:fOydnd44kq4V6oLVnZ2dnUVZ_jCdnZ2d@bayareasolut ions...

Perhaps if we had more info about the circuit.... are they connected
directly to the batteries? do they run through something else first? As
you asked, is the AC on?
The solar controller is connected to the house battery, but I connect
both
engine and house together all the time. No A/C. Engine starts fine
when
when all connected if panels aren't charging, everything else works
fine.
Two controllers, solar and balmar but the balmar doesn't kick in for
45
seconds after the engine is started.

Remember it works find unless the voltage is driven to 14v.
Tom

"tom" wrote in message
...
On May 5, 5:56 pm, "Gregory Hall" wrote:
"Capt. JG" wrote in message

news:fOydnd44kq4V6oLVnZ2dnUVZ_jCdnZ2d@bayareasolut ions...

Perhaps if we had more info about the circuit.... are they connected
directly to the batteries? do they run through something else first? As
you asked, is the AC on?
The solar controller is connected to the house battery, but I connect
both
engine and house together all the time. No A/C. Engine starts fine
when
when all connected if panels aren't charging, everything else works
fine.
Two controllers, solar and balmar but the balmar doesn't kick in for
45
seconds after the engine is started.

Remember it works find unless the voltage is driven to 14v.
Tom


You're right... it's weird.. I'm sure there's a simple solution, because
it's an on/off issue. Sorry I can't be of more help...

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

"tom" wrote in message
...
Remember it works find unless the voltage is driven to 14v.


Current limit protection is kicking in because of overvoltage. It's the
setting and the way your charging circuit is connected. What brand and
model chargers/switches/regulators do you use?

On May 6, 10:19 am, "Owen Kellog" wrote:
"tom" wrote in message

...

Remember it works find unless the voltage is driven to 14v.

Current limit protection is kicking in because of overvoltage. It's the
setting and the way your charging circuit is connected. What brand and
model chargers/switches/regulators do you use?

The solar controller is a ProStar PS-15, its connected to the inputs
to
the inverter which is connected to the battery bank via very large
cables.
The prostar is right next to the inverter. The inverter is a Freedom
20 and
it not on when the problem occurs and the alternator controller is a
ARS-4
(balmar) which has a 45 second delay before it kicks in.
The prostar has PWM regulation, and is connected to 4 panels with 186
total
wattage. It's in PWM mode when the problem occurs.
Tom

Looks like the solar controller sees to much of a current draw and shuts
down. This shutting down affects the whole system.

http://support.morningstarcorp.com/

Put the solar on the house battery only, not the starter battery. Isolate
the house from the starter battery.

"Owen Kellog" wrote in message
...
Looks like the solar controller sees to much of a current draw and shuts
down. This shutting down affects the whole system.

http://support.morningstarcorp.com/

Put the solar on the house battery only, not the starter battery. Isolate
the house from the starter battery.

No, that's not it. The controller doesn't care about current draw. It works
off voltage sensing. It only cares if the voltage becomes too high or too
low. Either way it will regulate voltage so the battery is not damaged by
overcharge or undercharge. But it also has a regulated circuit for things
like refrigerators, etc. so they don't run all night and cause the battery
to discharge so much that it becomes damaged. This guy obviously has not
read the installation instructions and has the regulated circuit connected
to the controller which regulated circuit is attempting to provide current
for the starter motor.

He's got the controller wired incorrectly just like I told him a couple days
age. But, did he listen? So what's the use of trying to educate someone with
eyes that will not see?

Wilbur Hubbard

Owen Kellog wrote:
Looks like the solar controller sees to much of a current draw and shuts
down. This shutting down affects the whole system.

http://support.morningstarcorp.com/


Did you find a document there that says this could be a problem?

Put the solar on the house battery only, not the starter battery. Isolate
the house from the starter battery.

Clearly this is a more sophisticated setup but the OP says that the two
bats are switched together, so he actually has only bank. Also, he
implies that flipping a switch on the control allows it to start, so the
real issue here what could cause the problem, not how to work around it.

Since I use solar panels and controllers, and have considered upgrading
to the one mentioned, I'm quite curious about this. BTW, The controller
I use in the summer (I forget the name, but it has a nice volt/amp
display) flakes out in the winter (below 50 degrees) so I switch back to
an older basic Morningstar Sunsaver to keep the batteries charged while
the shrinkwrap is on.