If you recall the heritage of the Volkswagon, it's no surprise it tried to
gas you.

-W


"Larry Weiss" wrote in message
...

Woah! I had one of those Beetles way back then. It leaked CO so bad it
nearly
killed me. I would worry about any heating system that utilizes a heat
exchanger off the exhaust manifolds.

Larry Weiss
"...Ever After!"
"a little after..."

x-no-archive:yes


Larry Weiss wrote:

Rod McInnis wrote:

the old Volkswagon Beetles used a heat exchanger off the exhaust manifolds
to heat the car! It was actually pretty nice on cold mornings, as the
heater worked almost instantly after starting the car.

Woah! I had one of those Beetles way back then. It leaked CO so bad it nearly
killed me. I would worry about any heating system that utilizes a heat
exchanger off the exhaust manifolds.

Well you do need to maintain your exhaust system of course. We had
one of those heat exchangers (still do) in one of the 1932 Plymouths.
There was just a hole in the firewall for the duct, so the passenger
got pretty hot, and the driver stayed cold. I used to deflect the
heat with a clipboard (this was in 1964, and not in 1932 BTW)

grandma Rosalie

x-no-archive:yes


Larry Weiss wrote:

Rod McInnis wrote:

the old Volkswagon Beetles used a heat exchanger off the exhaust manifolds
to heat the car! It was actually pretty nice on cold mornings, as the
heater worked almost instantly after starting the car.

Woah! I had one of those Beetles way back then. It leaked CO so bad it nearly
killed me. I would worry about any heating system that utilizes a heat
exchanger off the exhaust manifolds.

Well you do need to maintain your exhaust system of course. We had
one of those heat exchangers (still do) in one of the 1932 Plymouths.
There was just a hole in the firewall for the duct, so the passenger
got pretty hot, and the driver stayed cold. I used to deflect the
heat with a clipboard (this was in 1964, and not in 1932 BTW)

grandma Rosalie

Rod McInnis wrote:

the old Volkswagon Beetles used a heat exchanger off the exhaust manifolds
to heat the car! It was actually pretty nice on cold mornings, as the
heater worked almost instantly after starting the car.

Woah! I had one of those Beetles way back then. It leaked CO so bad it nearly
killed me. I would worry about any heating system that utilizes a heat
exchanger off the exhaust manifolds.

Larry Weiss
"...Ever After!"
"a little after..."

"Larry W4CSC" wrote in message
...


I've never figured out why boats in cold climates waste all this
energy going out the exhaust. It's SO easy to make a cast iron heat
exchanger in a dry stack, right next to...or even right IN the exhaust
manifold that will just roast your ears with free heat.

the old Volkswagon Beetles used a heat exchanger off the exhaust manifolds
to heat the car! It was actually pretty nice on cold mornings, as the
heater worked almost instantly after starting the car.



We retrieve some of it with the hot water heater hooked to the water
jacket. Too bad so much heat is simply wasted.


There is a lot of free heat to be had from the engine. The only drawback is
that the engine has to be running! Not what you want when you are swinging
on the hook!

Rod McInnis

(Larry W4CSC) wrote
My shop heater in winter is a 1KW Honda EU1000i power plant. I welded a
pipe nipple on the little exhaust port . . .

Hmm. The manual that came with my EU1000i went to great lengths in
several languages to *don't do that*! I suppose if the length was
short, not too restrictive, not near flammable materials, it could
work.

Its quiet enclosure . . . hidden away behind the cabinets.

Hmm, The EU1000i wasn't designed to operate in an enclosure, might be
hard on the plastic parts. Although big ventilation grates might make
such an installation viable.

Of course, restricting the exhaust with a long length of tubing and
letting the generator recycle a good dose of it's own (hot) cooling
air would just make it work harder and produce *more* heat g.

The warning in the manual is for the carbon monoxide and to keep you
from suing them if you do what they tell you not to......

The enclosure has a big outlet where the heat comes out the end of the
genset and two intakes, one in the bottom and one near the bottom on
the end with the outlets. The plastic doesn't even get as warm as it
would sitting in the sun being eaten alive by the UV rays from the
sunshine. It runs 8 hours a day on the road all summer in a modified
tool box bolted to the back door it just fits in. It's cooler in the
cabinet than in the sun because of the volume of air the blower in it
creates....

Operating in the van, in winter, the only end that gets warm is where
the hot air comes out of it to heat my truck. I'd guess doing this
recovers near 95% of the energy of the consumed fuel.

Too bad boats don't use Deutz air-cooled diesels. You could dump the
heat overboard in the summer around the dry stack and divert it into
the cabin in winter to recover the waste heat with a
thermostatically-controlled shutter to regulate its cabin temperature
through a muffler to block the noise. I had Deutz V-16 engines
driving 200KW gensets in Iran and they were fantastic engines, even
running where the OAT was over 100F all day long! One injector
clogged in 2 years and that was our fault some idiot put the filter in
wrong. Change the oil every 150 hours and she'd just run and run
24/7/365



On 13 Jan 2004 21:51:56 -0800, (Mark) wrote:

(Larry W4CSC) wrote
My shop heater in winter is a 1KW Honda EU1000i power plant. I welded a
pipe nipple on the little exhaust port . . .

Hmm. The manual that came with my EU1000i went to great lengths in
several languages to *don't do that*! I suppose if the length was
short, not too restrictive, not near flammable materials, it could
work.

Its quiet enclosure . . . hidden away behind the cabinets.

Hmm, The EU1000i wasn't designed to operate in an enclosure, might be
hard on the plastic parts. Although big ventilation grates might make
such an installation viable.

Of course, restricting the exhaust with a long length of tubing and
letting the generator recycle a good dose of it's own (hot) cooling
air would just make it work harder and produce *more* heat g.

The warning in the manual is for the carbon monoxide and to keep you
from suing them if you do what they tell you not to......

The enclosure has a big outlet where the heat comes out the end of the
genset and two intakes, one in the bottom and one near the bottom on
the end with the outlets. The plastic doesn't even get as warm as it
would sitting in the sun being eaten alive by the UV rays from the
sunshine. It runs 8 hours a day on the road all summer in a modified
tool box bolted to the back door it just fits in. It's cooler in the
cabinet than in the sun because of the volume of air the blower in it
creates....

Operating in the van, in winter, the only end that gets warm is where
the hot air comes out of it to heat my truck. I'd guess doing this
recovers near 95% of the energy of the consumed fuel.

Too bad boats don't use Deutz air-cooled diesels. You could dump the
heat overboard in the summer around the dry stack and divert it into
the cabin in winter to recover the waste heat with a
thermostatically-controlled shutter to regulate its cabin temperature
through a muffler to block the noise. I had Deutz V-16 engines
driving 200KW gensets in Iran and they were fantastic engines, even
running where the OAT was over 100F all day long! One injector
clogged in 2 years and that was our fault some idiot put the filter in
wrong. Change the oil every 150 hours and she'd just run and run
24/7/365



On 13 Jan 2004 21:51:56 -0800, (Mark) wrote:

(Larry W4CSC) wrote
My shop heater in winter is a 1KW Honda EU1000i power plant. I welded a
pipe nipple on the little exhaust port . . .

Hmm. The manual that came with my EU1000i went to great lengths in
several languages to *don't do that*! I suppose if the length was
short, not too restrictive, not near flammable materials, it could
work.

Its quiet enclosure . . . hidden away behind the cabinets.

Hmm, The EU1000i wasn't designed to operate in an enclosure, might be
hard on the plastic parts. Although big ventilation grates might make
such an installation viable.

Of course, restricting the exhaust with a long length of tubing and
letting the generator recycle a good dose of it's own (hot) cooling
air would just make it work harder and produce *more* heat g.

(Larry W4CSC) wrote
My shop heater in winter is a 1KW Honda EU1000i power plant. I welded a
pipe nipple on the little exhaust port . . .

Hmm. The manual that came with my EU1000i went to great lengths in
several languages to *don't do that*! I suppose if the length was
short, not too restrictive, not near flammable materials, it could
work.

Its quiet enclosure . . . hidden away behind the cabinets.

Hmm, The EU1000i wasn't designed to operate in an enclosure, might be
hard on the plastic parts. Although big ventilation grates might make
such an installation viable.

Of course, restricting the exhaust with a long length of tubing and
letting the generator recycle a good dose of it's own (hot) cooling
air would just make it work harder and produce *more* heat g.

When we got Lionheart, it came from San Francisco. It had a
rotted-out diesel heater to keep it warm. Sitting right next to this
waste of good diesel fuel, was a Perkins 4-108 diesel heater POURING
heat into its exhaust system so much they had to pour seawater into
the exhaust to cool it.

I've never figured out why boats in cold climates waste all this
energy going out the exhaust. It's SO easy to make a cast iron heat
exchanger in a dry stack, right next to...or even right IN the exhaust
manifold that will just roast your ears with free heat.

We retrieve some of it with the hot water heater hooked to the water
jacket. Too bad so much heat is simply wasted.

I have an electronics shop built into a surplus Air Force stepvan. My
shop heater in winter is a 1KW Honda EU1000i power plant. I welded a
pipe nipple on the little exhaust port with an elbow on the end. This
connects to a copper tubing draining the exhaust gases out the deck
under the truck. Keeps the shop toasty warm while providing me up to
1KW of 120VAC to run my equipment.....I figure I recover 85-90% of the
heat produced by the engine. Its quiet enclosure makes an acceptable
sound level to work in hidden away behind the cabinets.



On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 01:16:43 GMT, "Lawrence James"
wrote:

You are going to find out that heating things with electricity takes a lot
of it. That is why gas is used on boats, mobile homes, etc for things that
heat. And why most people run their gensets when using appliances. AC's
use a lot of power too but you might get away with it. Consider this, a
1200 watt electric heater is drawing 10 amps at 120 volts. Drop the voltage
down to 24 volts and now you need 50 amps. I will not tell you it is
impossible but you will need a lot of batteries.

"misia" wrote in message
mail.from.there...
On my new boat I will have a powerfull 24VDC battery bank charged by a
diesel generator and auxiliary sources.

I did a bit of search but couldn't find much- are there any 24 VDC
appliances such as cooker/oven, fridge, AC and water heater you could
recommend?

I know I can run standard items through power inverter but I would
prefer not to do it for the sake of reliability/efficiency/cost. I want
to go totally electric (no gas)

Regards Mi