On Thu, 8 Jan 2004 19:03:52 -0800, "Steve" wrote:


"Steve" wrote in message
...

I just wish I had a good online reference to what a proper tapered plug
valve looks like..


OK, here is the best I could do with a quick Google. It is a commercial
TAPERED PLUG VALVE.
http://www.conind.com/pdf/plug%20valve.pdf

Thanks, Steve...that's interesting...I still like my ball valves,
though, but in some inaccessible places, these could be good.

R.

That's basically it.

Here's the real deal:
http://spartanmarine.com/source/25.htm

Eric

"Steve" wrote in message ...
"Steve" wrote in message
...

I just wish I had a good online reference to what a proper tapered plug
valve looks like..


OK, here is the best I could do with a quick Google. It is a commercial
TAPERED PLUG VALVE.
http://www.conind.com/pdf/plug%20valve.pdf

It's not a sea cock but it is a tapered plug valve and has straight threads
on the inlet side and standard pipe threads on the outlet side. In this
valve the plug could be removed and the plug lapped/overhauled without
removing the valve from the system.. With a plug in the through hull, it
could be serviced in the water. (I've done this many times) You could never
do this with a ball valve since the ball can not be easily removed and if it
is, there is no way to resurface the ball surface if scored.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

That's basically it.

Here's the real deal:
http://spartanmarine.com/source/25.htm

Eric

"Steve" wrote in message ...
"Steve" wrote in message
...

I just wish I had a good online reference to what a proper tapered plug
valve looks like..


OK, here is the best I could do with a quick Google. It is a commercial
TAPERED PLUG VALVE.
http://www.conind.com/pdf/plug%20valve.pdf

It's not a sea cock but it is a tapered plug valve and has straight threads
on the inlet side and standard pipe threads on the outlet side. In this
valve the plug could be removed and the plug lapped/overhauled without
removing the valve from the system.. With a plug in the through hull, it
could be serviced in the water. (I've done this many times) You could never
do this with a ball valve since the ball can not be easily removed and if it
is, there is no way to resurface the ball surface if scored.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Thanks to all posters. As with all the simple questions, there is a range
of answers available. These newsgroups are great. Thanks again

"Keith" wrote in message
...
I personally don't think they are as good. I replaced three on my boat
with
Groco seacocks. You are correct about the plug valves working like the
valves on titration tubes. You would turn the rubber plug to the position
then tighten a screw on the other side which would smush the rubber plug
inside the housing, locking it in place. They had to be taken apart
annually
or so and cleaned and lubed. When you tighten them up, the rubber squeezes
up into the openings, especially in the closed position. You don't have
any
of these problems with ball valve seacocks, which are usually ss on Teflon
seats.

"Skip Gundlach" wrote in
message ink.net...
I'm a bit confused, apparently, by semantics or my limited exposure...

I hadn't heard of plug valves, so I went looking. What I saw looked
about
like every ball valve on the insides - except none had easily
position-noted
lever handles on the outsides.

A tapered plug valve led to visions of the kind of valves I used in
titration in school - a tapered seat with a matching taper on the
handle/valve, and, perhaps, a spring to hold it firmly down? - but that
was
not the deal. I presume from reading the various chatter on the topic
that
perhaps it (taper) refers to the threads at the bottom of the
valve/thru-hull?

In any event, I'm not the least bit sure how they're better than ball
valves, as that's what they look like. Those of you familiar with the
benefits of the type over a ball, what is their superiority?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

--
"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a clear
night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize that you
are
quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to you that in the
general scheme of things you are merely an insignificant speck on the
surface of the ocean; and are not nearly so important or as
self-sufficient
as you thought you were. Which is an exceedingly wholesome thought, and
one
that may effect a permanent change in your deportment that will be
greatly
appreciated by your friends."- James S. Pitkin

Thanks to all posters. As with all the simple questions, there is a range
of answers available. These newsgroups are great. Thanks again

"Keith" wrote in message
...
I personally don't think they are as good. I replaced three on my boat
with
Groco seacocks. You are correct about the plug valves working like the
valves on titration tubes. You would turn the rubber plug to the position
then tighten a screw on the other side which would smush the rubber plug
inside the housing, locking it in place. They had to be taken apart
annually
or so and cleaned and lubed. When you tighten them up, the rubber squeezes
up into the openings, especially in the closed position. You don't have
any
of these problems with ball valve seacocks, which are usually ss on Teflon
seats.

"Skip Gundlach" wrote in
message ink.net...
I'm a bit confused, apparently, by semantics or my limited exposure...

I hadn't heard of plug valves, so I went looking. What I saw looked
about
like every ball valve on the insides - except none had easily
position-noted
lever handles on the outsides.

A tapered plug valve led to visions of the kind of valves I used in
titration in school - a tapered seat with a matching taper on the
handle/valve, and, perhaps, a spring to hold it firmly down? - but that
was
not the deal. I presume from reading the various chatter on the topic
that
perhaps it (taper) refers to the threads at the bottom of the
valve/thru-hull?

In any event, I'm not the least bit sure how they're better than ball
valves, as that's what they look like. Those of you familiar with the
benefits of the type over a ball, what is their superiority?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

--
"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a clear
night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize that you
are
quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to you that in the
general scheme of things you are merely an insignificant speck on the
surface of the ocean; and are not nearly so important or as
self-sufficient
as you thought you were. Which is an exceedingly wholesome thought, and
one
that may effect a permanent change in your deportment that will be
greatly
appreciated by your friends."- James S. Pitkin

I cycle mine monthly to make sure they stay free. Here's another tip: I
wrapped the handle of each of mine with SOLAS reflective tape so I can find
them in the dark. Heaven forbid I should ever be down there in the dark
trying to shut one, at least I'll be able to find them quickly with a
flashlight.

"Steve" wrote in message
...

"felton" wrote in message
I am still pondering. My current disgruntlement probably brought on
by the fact that two of mine are now stuck in the open position, which
doesn't make me happy at all as my boat is in the water over the
winter. Something I have to take care of ASAP.



Shame on you Felton. You should have been cycling those sea cocks every
time
you used the boat or at least once a month.. Even the Forspar Marelon
valves
have a tag on the handle recommending that they be cylcled monthly and
lubricated annually.

However, I'm afraid I'm guilty of this same neglect.

You should be able to free these valves by loosing the nut on the bottom
of
the plug, tap it with a soft hammer (or hammer on a block of wood). Since
the plug is tappered it should come loose from the seat and rotate.. After
operating it though a number of cycles, adjust the nut just enough to
lightly hold the plug in place.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

I cycle mine monthly to make sure they stay free. Here's another tip: I
wrapped the handle of each of mine with SOLAS reflective tape so I can find
them in the dark. Heaven forbid I should ever be down there in the dark
trying to shut one, at least I'll be able to find them quickly with a
flashlight.

"Steve" wrote in message
...

"felton" wrote in message
I am still pondering. My current disgruntlement probably brought on
by the fact that two of mine are now stuck in the open position, which
doesn't make me happy at all as my boat is in the water over the
winter. Something I have to take care of ASAP.



Shame on you Felton. You should have been cycling those sea cocks every
time
you used the boat or at least once a month.. Even the Forspar Marelon
valves
have a tag on the handle recommending that they be cylcled monthly and
lubricated annually.

However, I'm afraid I'm guilty of this same neglect.

You should be able to free these valves by loosing the nut on the bottom
of
the plug, tap it with a soft hammer (or hammer on a block of wood). Since
the plug is tappered it should come loose from the seat and rotate.. After
operating it though a number of cycles, adjust the nut just enough to
lightly hold the plug in place.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Doug,

Try Spartan marine. They make bronze seacocks for Cape Dory/Robinhood Yachts.

Larry Demers

DSK wrote:

Steve wrote:

As others have stated, Gate Valve are not suited for marine use and
especially for below the waterline.

However, IMHO, the plug valve is superior to the ball valve. The plug valve
can be taken apart and cleaned or repaired. It seems that they would be
cheaper to manufacture as well..

Agreed. Good plug valves are hard to find, though. One of the chief benefits is
that you can disassemble them without taking apart the piping, something that
can't be done with ball valves. Also, if they happen to freeze up, they are
easier to unfreeze.

I looked all over for plug valves to replace some seacocks on our boat last
spring, and couldn't find any that we could actually get in time. However, at
some boatyard session in the not-too-distant future I have to replace (upsize)
two seacocks and intend to have plug valves on hand for that job.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Doug,

Try Spartan marine. They make bronze seacocks for Cape Dory/Robinhood Yachts.

Larry Demers

DSK wrote:

Steve wrote:

As others have stated, Gate Valve are not suited for marine use and
especially for below the waterline.

However, IMHO, the plug valve is superior to the ball valve. The plug valve
can be taken apart and cleaned or repaired. It seems that they would be
cheaper to manufacture as well..

Agreed. Good plug valves are hard to find, though. One of the chief benefits is
that you can disassemble them without taking apart the piping, something that
can't be done with ball valves. Also, if they happen to freeze up, they are
easier to unfreeze.

I looked all over for plug valves to replace some seacocks on our boat last
spring, and couldn't find any that we could actually get in time. However, at
some boatyard session in the not-too-distant future I have to replace (upsize)
two seacocks and intend to have plug valves on hand for that job.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King