I don't think they even make those any more, do they? I know I had a willing
buyer for a set that I replaced on my Krogen with Groco seacocks.

"DSK" wrote in message
...
Steve wrote:

As others have stated, Gate Valve are not suited for marine use and
especially for below the waterline.

However, IMHO, the plug valve is superior to the ball valve. The plug
valve
can be taken apart and cleaned or repaired. It seems that they would be
cheaper to manufacture as well..

Agreed. Good plug valves are hard to find, though. One of the chief
benefits is
that you can disassemble them without taking apart the piping, something
that
can't be done with ball valves. Also, if they happen to freeze up, they
are
easier to unfreeze.

I looked all over for plug valves to replace some seacocks on our boat
last
spring, and couldn't find any that we could actually get in time. However,
at
some boatyard session in the not-too-distant future I have to replace
(upsize)
two seacocks and intend to have plug valves on hand for that job.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

I personally don't think they are as good. I replaced three on my boat with
Groco seacocks. You are correct about the plug valves working like the
valves on titration tubes. You would turn the rubber plug to the position
then tighten a screw on the other side which would smush the rubber plug
inside the housing, locking it in place. They had to be taken apart annually
or so and cleaned and lubed. When you tighten them up, the rubber squeezes
up into the openings, especially in the closed position. You don't have any
of these problems with ball valve seacocks, which are usually ss on Teflon
seats.

"Skip Gundlach" wrote in
message ink.net...
I'm a bit confused, apparently, by semantics or my limited exposure...

I hadn't heard of plug valves, so I went looking. What I saw looked about
like every ball valve on the insides - except none had easily
position-noted
lever handles on the outsides.

A tapered plug valve led to visions of the kind of valves I used in
titration in school - a tapered seat with a matching taper on the
handle/valve, and, perhaps, a spring to hold it firmly down? - but that
was
not the deal. I presume from reading the various chatter on the topic
that
perhaps it (taper) refers to the threads at the bottom of the
valve/thru-hull?

In any event, I'm not the least bit sure how they're better than ball
valves, as that's what they look like. Those of you familiar with the
benefits of the type over a ball, what is their superiority?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

--
"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a clear
night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize that you are
quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to you that in the
general scheme of things you are merely an insignificant speck on the
surface of the ocean; and are not nearly so important or as
self-sufficient
as you thought you were. Which is an exceedingly wholesome thought, and
one
that may effect a permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly
appreciated by your friends."- James S. Pitkin

I personally don't think they are as good. I replaced three on my boat with
Groco seacocks. You are correct about the plug valves working like the
valves on titration tubes. You would turn the rubber plug to the position
then tighten a screw on the other side which would smush the rubber plug
inside the housing, locking it in place. They had to be taken apart annually
or so and cleaned and lubed. When you tighten them up, the rubber squeezes
up into the openings, especially in the closed position. You don't have any
of these problems with ball valve seacocks, which are usually ss on Teflon
seats.

"Skip Gundlach" wrote in
message ink.net...
I'm a bit confused, apparently, by semantics or my limited exposure...

I hadn't heard of plug valves, so I went looking. What I saw looked about
like every ball valve on the insides - except none had easily
position-noted
lever handles on the outsides.

A tapered plug valve led to visions of the kind of valves I used in
titration in school - a tapered seat with a matching taper on the
handle/valve, and, perhaps, a spring to hold it firmly down? - but that
was
not the deal. I presume from reading the various chatter on the topic
that
perhaps it (taper) refers to the threads at the bottom of the
valve/thru-hull?

In any event, I'm not the least bit sure how they're better than ball
valves, as that's what they look like. Those of you familiar with the
benefits of the type over a ball, what is their superiority?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

--
"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a clear
night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize that you are
quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to you that in the
general scheme of things you are merely an insignificant speck on the
surface of the ocean; and are not nearly so important or as
self-sufficient
as you thought you were. Which is an exceedingly wholesome thought, and
one
that may effect a permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly
appreciated by your friends."- James S. Pitkin

"felton" wrote in message
I am still pondering. My current disgruntlement probably brought on
by the fact that two of mine are now stuck in the open position, which
doesn't make me happy at all as my boat is in the water over the
winter. Something I have to take care of ASAP.



Shame on you Felton. You should have been cycling those sea cocks every time
you used the boat or at least once a month.. Even the Forspar Marelon valves
have a tag on the handle recommending that they be cylcled monthly and
lubricated annually.

However, I'm afraid I'm guilty of this same neglect.

You should be able to free these valves by loosing the nut on the bottom of
the plug, tap it with a soft hammer (or hammer on a block of wood). Since
the plug is tappered it should come loose from the seat and rotate.. After
operating it though a number of cycles, adjust the nut just enough to
lightly hold the plug in place.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

"felton" wrote in message
I am still pondering. My current disgruntlement probably brought on
by the fact that two of mine are now stuck in the open position, which
doesn't make me happy at all as my boat is in the water over the
winter. Something I have to take care of ASAP.



Shame on you Felton. You should have been cycling those sea cocks every time
you used the boat or at least once a month.. Even the Forspar Marelon valves
have a tag on the handle recommending that they be cylcled monthly and
lubricated annually.

However, I'm afraid I'm guilty of this same neglect.

You should be able to free these valves by loosing the nut on the bottom of
the plug, tap it with a soft hammer (or hammer on a block of wood). Since
the plug is tappered it should come loose from the seat and rotate.. After
operating it though a number of cycles, adjust the nut just enough to
lightly hold the plug in place.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

"JimB" wrote in message
...

Are your machine screws stainless or other metal? If
stainless, keep an eye out for corrosion under the epoxy.
Stainless doesn't like to be deprived of oxygen, as you
know!


I managed to find monel bolts for these sea cock flanges. ( I only have two
sea cocks that are below the waterline. Engine room cooling water and head
discharge.)

Steve

"JimB" wrote in message
...

Are your machine screws stainless or other metal? If
stainless, keep an eye out for corrosion under the epoxy.
Stainless doesn't like to be deprived of oxygen, as you
know!


I managed to find monel bolts for these sea cock flanges. ( I only have two
sea cocks that are below the waterline. Engine room cooling water and head
discharge.)

Steve

On Fri, 9 Jan 2004 08:33:43 -0800, "Steve" wrote:


"felton" wrote in message
I am still pondering. My current disgruntlement probably brought on
by the fact that two of mine are now stuck in the open position, which
doesn't make me happy at all as my boat is in the water over the
winter. Something I have to take care of ASAP.



Shame on you Felton. You should have been cycling those sea cocks every time
you used the boat or at least once a month.. Even the Forspar Marelon valves
have a tag on the handle recommending that they be cylcled monthly and
lubricated annually.

I am generally pretty good about closing all the seacocks when I leave
the boat. I suspect it is not a coincidence that these two are the
hardest to reach, so I may have been less than perfect in this
regard For the same reason, they will be the hardest to work on

However, I'm afraid I'm guilty of this same neglect.

You should be able to free these valves by loosing the nut on the bottom of
the plug, tap it with a soft hammer (or hammer on a block of wood). Since
the plug is tappered it should come loose from the seat and rotate.. After
operating it though a number of cycles, adjust the nut just enough to
lightly hold the plug in place.

Thanks. I was planning on taking some of my persuaders with me the
next time I go to the boat. I hate leaving those things open.


Steve
s/v Good Intentions

On Fri, 9 Jan 2004 08:33:43 -0800, "Steve" wrote:


"felton" wrote in message
I am still pondering. My current disgruntlement probably brought on
by the fact that two of mine are now stuck in the open position, which
doesn't make me happy at all as my boat is in the water over the
winter. Something I have to take care of ASAP.



Shame on you Felton. You should have been cycling those sea cocks every time
you used the boat or at least once a month.. Even the Forspar Marelon valves
have a tag on the handle recommending that they be cylcled monthly and
lubricated annually.

I am generally pretty good about closing all the seacocks when I leave
the boat. I suspect it is not a coincidence that these two are the
hardest to reach, so I may have been less than perfect in this
regard For the same reason, they will be the hardest to work on

However, I'm afraid I'm guilty of this same neglect.

You should be able to free these valves by loosing the nut on the bottom of
the plug, tap it with a soft hammer (or hammer on a block of wood). Since
the plug is tappered it should come loose from the seat and rotate.. After
operating it though a number of cycles, adjust the nut just enough to
lightly hold the plug in place.

Thanks. I was planning on taking some of my persuaders with me the
next time I go to the boat. I hate leaving those things open.


Steve
s/v Good Intentions

On Thu, 8 Jan 2004 19:03:52 -0800, "Steve" wrote:


"Steve" wrote in message
...

I just wish I had a good online reference to what a proper tapered plug
valve looks like..


OK, here is the best I could do with a quick Google. It is a commercial
TAPERED PLUG VALVE.
http://www.conind.com/pdf/plug%20valve.pdf

Thanks, Steve...that's interesting...I still like my ball valves,
though, but in some inaccessible places, these could be good.

R.