On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 12:21:08 -0700, Frogwatch
wrote:

The type I have seen with a pin THROUGH the oar
are all made of mild steel so will rust. There must be a bronze or
stainless version of the type that is attached to the oars.

You can always have the mild steel ones hot dip galvanized. I like the
round ones, as they can be feathered, but whatever.

Casady

On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 23:15:58 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

I like the
round ones, as they can be feathered, but whatever.

I'll second that and add a couple of other reasons:

The U-shaped locks are dangerous if someone falls on them, and they
can allow the oars to escape at inopportune moments.

The "captive pin" oarlocks weaken the oar and prevent feathering.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 23:15:58 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

I like the
round ones, as they can be feathered, but whatever.

I'll second that and add a couple of other reasons:

The U-shaped locks are dangerous if someone falls on them, and they
can allow the oars to escape at inopportune moments.

The "captive pin" oarlocks weaken the oar and prevent feathering.



One can always tell a serious rowing dinghy by the oars, oarlocks and
oarlock sockets. The oars should be manufactured from wood. The oarlocks
should be round and made from bronze and the sockets should also be
bronze and secured to the gunnels with bolts and not screws. Placement
is important and should be so that the arms can straighten during the
stroke. The oars should be long enough so the shaft clears the gunnels
and shows no wear but not so long that the oar will not fit into the
length of the dinghy. The round oarlocks allow feathering which is
important to proper rowing technique. The round oarlocks and oar sleeves
produce very little wear and keep things quite. A real traditionalist
will use leather sleeves but I like the modern plastic sleeve attached
with brass nails. The oars themselves should be kept well varnished or
painted. The business end should be free of splits or cracks. The grip
should be smooth and not overly large for the hand. Some folks like a
rubber grip but I prefer painted or varnished wood.

Rowing a dinghy is an art - a SILENT art. One must have the proper
traditional equipment in order to do it right and to be though well of
by others in the know. Nothing says novice like those silly horn
oarlocks that use a pin through the oar. Here he comes, squeak, clunk,
squeak clunk, squeak clunk! Sillier yet is the clamp-on type. Freaking
lubbers!

Wilbur Hubbard

On Sep 25, 10:01 am, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message

...

On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 23:15:58 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

I like the
round ones, as they can be feathered, but whatever.

I'll second that and add a couple of other reasons:

The U-shaped locks are dangerous if someone falls on them, and they
can allow the oars to escape at inopportune moments.

The "captive pin" oarlocks weaken the oar and prevent feathering.

One can always tell a serious rowing dinghy by the oars, oarlocks and
oarlock sockets. The oars should be manufactured from wood. The oarlocks
should be round and made from bronze and the sockets should also be
bronze and secured to the gunnels with bolts and not screws. Placement
is important and should be so that the arms can straighten during the
stroke. The oars should be long enough so the shaft clears the gunnels
and shows no wear but not so long that the oar will not fit into the
length of the dinghy. The round oarlocks allow feathering which is
important to proper rowing technique. The round oarlocks and oar sleeves
produce very little wear and keep things quite. A real traditionalist
will use leather sleeves but I like the modern plastic sleeve attached
with brass nails. The oars themselves should be kept well varnished or
painted. The business end should be free of splits or cracks. The grip
should be smooth and not overly large for the hand. Some folks like a
rubber grip but I prefer painted or varnished wood.

Rowing a dinghy is an art - a SILENT art. One must have the proper
traditional equipment in order to do it right and to be though well of
by others in the know. Nothing says novice like those silly horn
oarlocks that use a pin through the oar. Here he comes, squeak, clunk,
squeak clunk, squeak clunk! Sillier yet is the clamp-on type. Freaking
lubbers!

Wilbur Hubbard

Proper buggy whip technique is very important. Being well thought of
by expert buggy whippers is truly important. Oh, the horror, I sail
into the anchorage with fenders over the side AND THEN, dare I say it,
I have CLAMP-ON oarlocks. I will be ostracized by Hubbard. I wont be
invited to the commodores ball, Oh the shame.

"Frogwatch" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Sep 25, 10:01 am, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message

...

On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 23:15:58 GMT,
(Richard
Casady) wrote:

I like the
round ones, as they can be feathered, but whatever.

I'll second that and add a couple of other reasons:

The U-shaped locks are dangerous if someone falls on them, and they
can allow the oars to escape at inopportune moments.

The "captive pin" oarlocks weaken the oar and prevent feathering.

One can always tell a serious rowing dinghy by the oars, oarlocks and
oarlock sockets. The oars should be manufactured from wood. The
oarlocks
should be round and made from bronze and the sockets should also be
bronze and secured to the gunnels with bolts and not screws.
Placement
is important and should be so that the arms can straighten during the
stroke. The oars should be long enough so the shaft clears the
gunnels
and shows no wear but not so long that the oar will not fit into the
length of the dinghy. The round oarlocks allow feathering which is
important to proper rowing technique. The round oarlocks and oar
sleeves
produce very little wear and keep things quite. A real traditionalist
will use leather sleeves but I like the modern plastic sleeve
attached
with brass nails. The oars themselves should be kept well varnished
or
painted. The business end should be free of splits or cracks. The
grip
should be smooth and not overly large for the hand. Some folks like a
rubber grip but I prefer painted or varnished wood.

Rowing a dinghy is an art - a SILENT art. One must have the proper
traditional equipment in order to do it right and to be thought well
of
by others in the know. Nothing says novice like those silly horn
oarlocks that use a pin through the oar. Here he comes, squeak,
clunk,
squeak clunk, squeak clunk! Sillier yet is the clamp-on type.
Freaking
lubbers!

Wilbur Hubbard

Proper buggy whip technique is very important. Being well thought of
by expert buggy whippers is truly important. Oh, the horror, I sail
into the anchorage with fenders over the side AND THEN, dare I say it,
I have CLAMP-ON oarlocks. I will be ostracized by Hubbard. I wont be
invited to the commodores ball, Oh the shame.



My dear chap, if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Any old fool
can do a half-arsed job. You can do better than that, sir. You asked
for advice yet you proceeded to ignore years of experience talking. Why
bother asking. Keep quiet next time, then.

Wilbur Hubbard

On Tue, 25 Sep 2007 12:56:07 -0400, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:


"Frogwatch" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Sep 25, 10:01 am, "Wilbur Hubbard"
wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message

...

On Mon, 24 Sep 2007 23:15:58 GMT,
(Richard
Casady) wrote:

I like the
round ones, as they can be feathered, but whatever.

I'll second that and add a couple of other reasons:

The U-shaped locks are dangerous if someone falls on them, and they
can allow the oars to escape at inopportune moments.

The "captive pin" oarlocks weaken the oar and prevent feathering.

One can always tell a serious rowing dinghy by the oars, oarlocks and
oarlock sockets. The oars should be manufactured from wood. The
oarlocks
should be round and made from bronze and the sockets should also be
bronze and secured to the gunnels with bolts and not screws.
Placement
is important and should be so that the arms can straighten during the
stroke. The oars should be long enough so the shaft clears the
gunnels
and shows no wear but not so long that the oar will not fit into the
length of the dinghy. The round oarlocks allow feathering which is
important to proper rowing technique. The round oarlocks and oar
sleeves
produce very little wear and keep things quite. A real traditionalist
will use leather sleeves but I like the modern plastic sleeve
attached
with brass nails. The oars themselves should be kept well varnished
or
painted. The business end should be free of splits or cracks. The
grip
should be smooth and not overly large for the hand. Some folks like a
rubber grip but I prefer painted or varnished wood.

Rowing a dinghy is an art - a SILENT art. One must have the proper
traditional equipment in order to do it right and to be thought well
of
by others in the know. Nothing says novice like those silly horn
oarlocks that use a pin through the oar. Here he comes, squeak,
clunk,
squeak clunk, squeak clunk! Sillier yet is the clamp-on type.
Freaking
lubbers!

Wilbur Hubbard

Proper buggy whip technique is very important. Being well thought of
by expert buggy whippers is truly important. Oh, the horror, I sail
into the anchorage with fenders over the side AND THEN, dare I say it,
I have CLAMP-ON oarlocks. I will be ostracized by Hubbard. I wont be
invited to the commodores ball, Oh the shame.



My dear chap, if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Any old fool
can do a half-arsed job. You can do better than that, sir. You asked
for advice yet you proceeded to ignore years of experience talking. Why
bother asking. Keep quiet next time, then.

Wilbur Hubbard

Willie-boy, as usual you confuse your opinions with reality. I've seen
watermen from Maine to Hong Kong moving boats with muscle power and
not a one of them has acted as though silence was a major criteria. As
for your comments about oar locks, it is just about as foolish as the
rest of your post since probably 90% of the world's oarsmen don't even
use oarlocks at all.

So -- if the rest of the world doesn't follow your dictate to be quiet
and most don't even use oarlocks where does that put your comments?
Facts? Left field? Ravings of a mad man?

You remind me of the old story about the fond mother watching the
parade and saying, "Look! Look! The whole parade is out of step except
for my Willie".


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)

blathered in his usual delusional manner in
message ...


Willie-boy, as usual you confuse your opinions with reality. I've seen
watermen from Maine to Hong Kong moving boats with muscle power and
not a one of them has acted as though silence was a major criteria. As
for your comments about oar locks, it is just about as foolish as the
rest of your post since probably 90% of the world's oarsmen don't even
use oarlocks at all.

So -- if the rest of the world doesn't follow your dictate to be quiet
and most don't even use oarlocks where does that put your comments?
Facts? Left field? Ravings of a mad man?

You remind me of the old story about the fond mother watching the
parade and saying, "Look! Look! The whole parade is out of step except
for my Willie".


Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)


Sorry, Brucie Boy, but rec.boats.cruising and rec.boats don't give a
hoot how they do it in some third world dive where senile, cranky,
end-of-the-road, pretend world cruisers, who never even made it half the
way 'round, hang out at the dock in an alcohol induced haze for years
and years acting like they have a life and are actually going somewhere
again when they know they no longer are mentally or physically fit
enough for the task.

However, in the real world where people are still young and where
technology and affluence has replaced
make-do-with-primitive-means-at-hand jury rigs, it matters as far as
doing things in a safe up-to-date and efficient manner.

My original goal for this post was to scrutinize Mr. Bruce Paige's
remarks point by mudslinging point and slap down each and every one of
them. Unfortunately, Bruce's focus wanders so wildly that he never
actually finishes any of his points. I think you'll notice this in the
ensuing discussion. Let's get down to brass tacks: Bruce's hypocrisy
comes out when he denies that he surrounds himself with what I call
rustic third-worlder's. I'll say that again, because I want it to sink
in: If the United States were overrun by third world wannabe tactless
prigs, we could expect to see thousands of Bruce Paige's shambling
drunkenly down every dock -- stares from dockmasters, taxis that don't
stop because they know he won't pay the fare, and identity checks by
police on the lookout for liquor store robbers. To say that all world
cruisers are poor, stupid ghetto trash is a stretch but it seems to be
true at Bruce's Bangkok dock.

Sure, I could just sit back and let Bruce throw stones my way and leave
subscribers morally adrift, but that prospect really grates on me and
other folks who have any kind of common sense. In any case, he may
unwittingly ramble on maybe because Alzheimer's is setting in and, since
nobody takes him seriously, no harm is done. I say "unwittingly" because
he is apparently unaware that he operates under the influence of a
dementia that slowly debilitates without his awareness of the fact. To
make sure you understand, I'll spell it out for you. Bruce's snow jobs
are an icon for the deterioration of the post 70-year-old mind, for its
slow slide into delusion, malaise, and oblivion.
Considering his reduced faculties, Bruce is extraordinarily brazen.
However, his constant willingness to convince impressionable subscribers
that his posts are based on reason sets a new world record for
brazenness. It is quite true, of course, that he is like a Judas goat,
leading poor, gullible newsgroup *******s to the slaughter. But if
you've read most of the conniving slop that he's concocted, you'll
honestly conclude he's trying make us the helpless puppets of
third-world demographic and social ways and means. He forgets the world
is modern in many places. If you haven't read any of his ranting and
raving, well, all you really need to know is that Bruce's method is
transparent. It's to throw a bunch of sh*t at the wall and watch to see
what sticks. It is not good methodology! Just like the two or three feet
of dirty clothes on his cabin sole and the cluttered, moldering,
reek-to-high-heavens lockers, Bruce's mess won't go away if we simply
look the other way.

This march into backwards narcissism is not happening by mere chance. It
is not, as many uncompanionable, lame-brained losers insist, the result
of the natural, inevitable course of things. It is happening as a direct
result of Bruce's advanced age combined with life-long alcohol abuse.
The bottom line is that Mr. Bruce Paige's recent attempt to slander
those like myself who are most systematically undervalued and
underapprectiated may prove to be a watershed event for those of us who
want to change the world for the better. Sad that we must carry dregs
like Bruce on our hardworking shoulders as we labor. . .



Wilbur Hubbard